Whimsical labels add a home-canning touch to Gaia’s deceptively sophisticated cheesecakes, which keep for a month once sealed in Mason jars.
	A Rustic Approach - Reinterpreting Timeless French Technique By Carole Kotkin
		The comfort-food dining crowd might consider cooks who call their food "rustic cuisine" to be pretentious. Sybarites probably believe the term itself is something of an oxymoron. But when it comes to what contemporary chefs think, and what they are currently cooking in their establishments, be they vaunted or modest, the "rustic cuisine" label sticks. Take Frederic Kieffer, executive chef at Gaia in Greenwich, Connecticut, a restaurant that has generated enormous curiosity (and not because it was named for a Greek goddess). Chef Kieffer was born and professionally trained in Paris, where he worked at the three-Michelin-starred Le Taillevent, two- Michelin-starred Gerard Besson and the illustrious Hotel Lutetia. But the rural cooking of France - traditional dishes that have the ring of truth, familiar foods made extraordinary with care - is his first love. To that end, he prepares dishes in authentic Mason jars, the ones patented in 1858 by New Yorker John L. Mason, complete with rubber seals and metal snap closures. While cooking a gourmet meal in an air-tight container that's been placed in a water bath and simmered on the range may seem like a gimmick, this method is actually based on an old-fashioned technique known as sous vide (under vacuum), used for preserving food and packaging individual portions. The theory behind Kieffer's adaptation of it is similar to cooking en papillote - everything inside will retain its juices, flavors and aromas. It is what's inside that gives this provincial methodology its modern patina: goat cheese marinated in olive oil; macaroni and cheese with truffles; Cabernet-braised short ribs flavored with orange confit; Colorado lamb with crème fraîche polenta. Served tableside directly from the jar in which they were cooked, these enticements certainly appear rustic. But their heady fragrance and wonderful flavor speak of precision and finesse. "The skills remain the same at a three-star restaurant and one preparing humble food," Kieffer says. A good portion of that craftsmanship lies in the desire to actively participate in every step of the cooking process: to butcher one's own cuts of meat; to grind herbs or grains using a mortar and pestle rather than a food processor; to make ingredients, such as tomato paste, that are parts of the larger whole. On the surface, rustic cuisine is about breezy simplicity, but underneath there's strict adherence to pure perfection at every level. For instance, Jan Jorgensssen, native Dane and chef-proprietor of Two Chefs in Miami, makes preserved lemons, among other pantry staples. An indispensable ingredient in the global kitchen, preserved lemons offer a uniquely floral and fragrant aroma and taste to many dishes. Although these are available from a purveyor, Jorgensen prefers pickling Meyer lemons himself, a process that takes from three to six weeks. "Because most foods remain edible for only a brief period of time, people since the earliest ages have experimented with methods for successful food preservation. It's the most natural thing in the world for me to preserve my own foods. Why re-invent the wheel?" he says. Indeed the lemons last in the refrigerator for at least six months. For some dishes, Jorgensen removes thhe pulp from the lemon and juliennes both skin and pith. He then adds them to scallop escabeche or sautéed chicken, sometimes even using them as a zesty relish to serve with carpaccio. The pulp itself can be added to stews for more lemon flavor, he notes. Jeffrey Cerciello, executive chef at Thomas Keller's Bouchon, goes even further with what he calls "polished rusticity" when he prepares his signature French onion soup. He first slices the onions uniformly so that they will caramelize evenly - a process that takes five hours - and so they will just fit the spoon. "Caramelizing the onions is crucial. You must have patience and dedication," he says. These methods result in a more refined and luxurious version of the classic bistro dish that stylistically matches Bouchon, which is "grounded in a framework of tradition yet held to the same high standards of refinement" as such groundbreaking establishments as El Bulli, where Cerciello once interned, and Keller's French Laundry. Nowhere is attention to homespun detail more obvious than in the bucolic South of France, progenitor of the rustic doctrine. Most of the restaurants here are small and family owned, such as the 12th-century French inn and country restaurant, L'Hostellerie Bérard, located in La Cadiere d'Azur, a tiny village of medieval buildings in the Var district of southern Provence. Daniele Bérard, proprietor with her husband, award-winning chef René Bérard, are well-known advocates of using seasonal and self-grown products - a most basic tenet. To wit: Ten minutes away, at their 150-year-old country house, the Bérards tend a garden planted with every herb, vegetable and fruit tree imaginable. A recent meal here was close to sheer perfection. Appetites were sharpened by an apéritif of Bandol rosé and peach crème liqueur, and then sated by, among other dishes, mille-feuille of hearts of artichokes and foie gras; a frothy lobster broth with small, truffle-stuffed ravioli; and wild sea bass scented with lemon thyme. Local wines from Bandol, such as Bastide de Cagueloup and Domaine de la Begude reds, Cassis and Côtes de Provence, were pulled from the 8,000-bottle cellar and superbly matched with the dishes; the cheese course arrived on a trolley laden with all manner of artisan cow, sheep and goat milk specialties. "It's simple," Madame Bérard says. "But it's what we all want." For this reason, perhaps, the Bérards think of themselves as marchands de bonheur - merchants of happiness. Interestingly, rustic philosophies are invading kitchens across Paris, where small restaurants with young, talented chefs at their helms are proving that fine food need not be ultraserious. Near the Eiffel Tower at Rotisserie D'en Face, a bistro owned by two-Michelin-starred chef Jacques Cagna, there's a rustic accent on modern fare. What could be better than a crisp, roasted free-range chicken accompanied by a creamy purée de pommes de terre, followed by mousse au chocolat noir Valrhona, three intense and satiny dark chocolate ovals garnished with a mint leaf? Indeed, to be truly hot in Paris today, a restaurant must have the confidence not to be too self-important. Art Siemering, author of The Food Channel Trendwire newsletter, agrees that the definition and interpretation of rustic is changing universally. "[Consider] the way culturally attuned participants in a word-association test might react to the word 'rustic.' Where they once might have shot back 'rough, coarse, crude,' they are far more likely to use words like 'natural, authentic, homey' today. These newer adjectives are especially relevant when we're speaking of food." Yet every chef has his or her own idea about what comprises rustic cuisine. For some, like Jorgensen and the Bérards, it's rooted in the commitment to the integrity of an ingredient. For others, it's based on reinventing the familiar. "Rustic food, in whatever culture you choose, is food rooted in tradition that is open to new interpretations, new flavors, new adaptations. [Yet,] it has to be something that our diners recognize and can wrap their arms around, too; something that I can make better than their memories," says Eric Ziebold, executive chef at CityZen in Washington D.C.'s Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Ziebold takes inspiration from his mother back home in Iowa. "I always loved her chicken and dumplings that she braised in an electric skillet. But the scope of the dish changed when I presented it on our restaurant menu using French cooking techniques. I refined the dumpling concept by lightening the mixture with baking soda and baking powder and using crème fraîche instead of milk. Rather than chicken, I pan-roast a Bobo Farms poussin and finish it with Périgord truffles." Nick Morfogen, executive chef/partner of 32 East in Delray Beach, Florida, similarly tweaks short ribs, underscoring another rule of rusticating - every part of the animal should be utilized. Morforgen enjoys elevating the slowly braised ribs with various ethnic influences: "I've cooked them 50 different ways - with Thai spices, barbecued, grilled. It's endless." Morfogen credits his fascination with French country fare to Daniel Boulud, executive chef at Le Cirque when Morfogen was in his formative years. "He did things with humble potatoes, simple vegetables and long-braised meat that bordered on the magical," he says. "The true innovators are often the most rigorously classical. Boulud slowly refined the classics." Likewise, Morfogen is now taking a retro look at dishes like blanquette de veau. "I jazz up a basic recipe with winter roots - parsnips, leeks, celery root and salsify. I add chicken stock and cream, and scatter it with sautéed hedgehog mushrooms and Périgord truffles and serve it with brown butter noodles and a California Pinot Noir." He adds, "Most California wines are made from French grape root stock, so they go well with French-American foods." Yet for all his practicality, he can wax philosophically as well. "The rustic quality draws us with a vicarious sense of warmth and home, and an opportunity to connect in a world that has become very bewildering," he says. In fact, for some, rustic cuisine is like yoga: a conduit to a socially responsible way of life. Geoffrey Zakarian, chef/proprietor of Town restaurant in Manhattan, who was born in the great Bordeaux year of 1959 and educated under the tutelage of some of the finest French master chefs, says, "Rustic is a state of mind - great products handled properly with great respect." He points to his beef twosome - sliced organic rib-eye steak and beef short ribs bedded on creamy roasted garlic purée with raclette cheese - as an example. Zakarian plans to expand his concept to a casual counterpart called Country late this summer. "Eating at Country will be like dining in someone's home, with a menu that changes every ten days and served family-style on beautiful, large platters as they do in Provence," says Zakarian, who gained fame as chef at the New York City restaurants Patroon and 44. "At Country, diners will be served something new on each visit - dishes like mascarpone-stuffed chicken, roasted baby lamb, tomato bread pudding and vegetables fresh from the garden. Everyone will be drinking really well-valued bottles, with the emphasis on half bottles and carafes," he continues. Zakarian's Country concept echoes a devotion to purity that's at the root of rustic cuisine - the hominess that touches a universal sensory chord and resonates in our earliest collective memories. Food Editor Carole Kotkin is manager of the Ocean Reef Club Cooking School in Key Largo, a syndicated food columnist for The Miami Herald; co-author of Mmmmiami - Tempting Tropical Tastes for Home Cooks Everywhere; and co-host of Food & Wine Talk on WDNA FM. Preserved Meyer Lemons From Chef Jan Jorgensen of Two Chefs 12 Meyer lemons, washed and dried 3/4 cup sea salt 3 cinnamon sticks Small handful of cloves (about 6-8) Small handful of black peppercorns A few pinches of star anise A few pinches of chili pepper flakes Fresh lemon juice as needed Slice vertically halfway into each lemon, without cutting in half. Fill cuts with salt. At the bottom of a sterilized canning jar, sprinkle salt. Layer with lemons, sprinkle with salt again and 1/3 of the spices. Compress and repeat until no space is left. Juice from the fruit should rise to cover; add fresh lemon juice if necessary. Seal and keep in a dry place. The lemons are ready when rinds are tender, 3 to 6 weeks. Refrigerate after opening for up to 6 months. Sea Scallop Escabeche with Fingerling Potatoes From Chef Jan Jorgensen of Two Chefs 6 cups court-bouillon (6 cups cold water, 1/2 cup chopped onions, 1/2 cup chopped celery, 1/4 cup chopped leeks, 1/4 cup chopped carrots, 1 small bunch parsley stems, 8 sprigs thyme, 1 bay leaf. Bring to a boil, reduce heat; simmer 20 minutes. Add 1/4 cup dry white wine, salt and pepper to taste, strain.) or substitute low-sodium canned vegetable broth 1 pound sea scallops 1 pound fingerling potatoes 2 large yellow onions, julienne 1 cup vegetable oil 1/2 cup white vinegar 2 bay leaves 1 pickled lemon rind, julienne Salt and pepper to taste Romaine lettuce, julienne In a saucepan, boil court-bouillon. Blanch scallops, set aside to cool, then slice thinly. Boil fingerling potatoes skin-on, set aside to cool, then slice thinly. In a separate pot, heat the oil and add the onions. Cook until translucent. Add vinegar, bay leaves, lemon rind salt and pepper. Cook for 10 minutes on low heat. Allow to cool. Mix all ingredients. Line martini glasses with lettuce. Spoon scallop mixture on top and serve. Serves 10 Ratatouille Zucchini Blossoms From Chef René Bérard of L'Hostellerie Bérard 12 fully opened zucchini blossoms Olive oil for sautéing 3 zucchinis, diced 2 Japanese eggplants, diced 1 green pepper, diced 1 red pepper, diced 2 ripe tomatoes, diced A few baby onions, diced Brittany sea salt Milled pepper 1 tablespoon dried thyme flowers 3 bay leaves Caster sugar Before serving, cut bottoms off blossoms and remove small, fine spines from around base. Rinse blossoms in cold water and drain on a cloth. In an oven-proof pan, warm oil and sauté zucchini and eggplant for 5 minutes. Remove and set aside. Sauté peppers and tomatoes for 10 minutes. Remove and set aside. Brown onions, then reintroduce cooked vegetables. Add salt and pepper to taste, then add thyme flowers, bay leaves and a pinch of sugar. Place in oven for 10 minutes at 400°. Remove and strain excess liquid. Fill each flower with ratatouille. Place stuffed blossoms on a greased baking tray, season to taste and bake for 10 minutes at 375°. Brush lightly with olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt. Serves 6 Onion Soup/Soupe à l'Oignon Recipe excerpted from BOUCHON by Thomas Keller (Artisan Books), ©2004 Thomas Keller 2 bay leaves 12 black peppercorns 6 large thyme sprigs 8 large yellow onions, peeled 8 tablespoons unsalted butter Kosher salt 1 1/2 teaspoons all-purpose flour 3 1/2 quarts beef stock Freshly ground black pepper Sherry wine vinegar 1 baguette (about 21/2" in diameter) Extra virgin olive oil 6-12 slices (1/8" thick) aged Comté or Emmentaler cheese (at least 4" square) 11/2 cups grated aged Comté or Emmentaler cheese, or a combination In a cheesecloth, bundle bay leaves, peppercorns and thyme and tie with twine to make a sachet. Trim onions and cut lengthwise in half. Remove core. Slice with the grain into 1/4"-thick slivers. Separate slices. In a large heavy stockpot, melt butter over medium heat. Add onions and 1 tablespoon salt, place a diffuser under the pot and reduce the heat to low. Cook, stirring every 15 minutes for 1 hour, until onions have wilted and released liquid. Turn up heat slightly to reduce liquid. Continue to stir every 15 minutes for 4 hours, until onions are a rich deep brown. Remove from heat. Transfer 11/2 cups of onions to a 5-quart pot (reserve extra for up to 2 days in the refrigerator). Sift in flour and stir over medium-high heat for 2-3 minutes. Add stock and sachet and simmer for 1 hour, until liquid is reduced to 21/2 quarts. Season to taste with salt, pepper and vinegar. Remove from heat. Preheat broiler. Cut twelve 3/8"-thick slices from baguette and place on a baking sheet. Brush bread with olive oil and sprinkle with salt front and back. Toast both sides under broiler. Set aside. Return soup to a simmer. Place six flameproof soup tureens on a baking sheet. Add hot soup to tureens, filling to within 1/2" of the tops. Lay 2 croutons on the soup surface and cover with cheese slices, overlapping the edges of the tureens by about 1/2". Scatter grated cheese over the sliced cheese. Place tureens under broiler until cheese bubbles, browns and forms a crust. Serves 6 Artichoke Brandade From Chef Geoffrey Zakarian of Town For the artichoke purée: 8 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced 1 sprig thyme 1 fresh bay leaf 3-4 artichokes, peeled and quartered 2 white potatoes, peeled and thickly sliced 11/2 cups chicken stock 11/2 cups heavy cream Olive oil Salt and pepper Juice of 1 lemon For the brandade purée: 1/2 fillet of salt cod, soaked in fresh water for 2 nights, drained and rinsed 3 times 2-3 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, cooked until tender in salted water, peeled and puréed in food mill 8 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 2 cups heavy cream 1/4 cup olive oil 1 fresh bay leaf 11/2 tablespoons sweet butter Salt and freshly ground black pepper For the artichoke purée: In a sauté pan, sweat shallots, garlic, thyme and bay leaf in olive oil over low heat until translucent. Add potatoes and artichokes and sweat a little more. Add chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Cook until mixture is very soft; season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Transfer mixture to a food processor and purée on high until very smooth. Set aside. For the brandade: Drain salt cod and place in basket of a double boiler or convection steamer for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, sweat garlic and bay leaf in olive oil over very low fire in a small rondeau until garlic is tender and fragrant, but not browned. Transfer salt cod to rondeau and sweat, stirring constantly, over low heat until very finely shredded. Add heavy cream and bring to simmer, remove from heat and add 1/2 the puréed potatoes; whip vigorously to incorporate. Add in remaining potato purée and repeat process. Combine purées in small saucepot and warm slowly over moderate heat. Stir constantly to incorporate air for a light, fluffy purée. Serves 4 Blanquette de Veau with Wild Mushrooms & Buttered Noodles From Chef Nick Morfogen of 32 East 2 pounds veal stew meat, cut in 1" cubes 2 tablespoons kosher salt 1 quart white veal stock 6 sprigs thyme 1 bay leaf 2 leek greens 4 tablespoons butter 2 leek whites, medium dice 3 celery root, medium dice 2 carrots, medium dice 1 pound fresh wild mushrooms 6 ounces haricots verts, blanched and cut into thirds 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 cup cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice Salt and white pepper to taste For the noodles: 3/4 pound egg noodles 1 tablespoon butter 4 sprigs chervil Season veal with salt. Set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes. Fill a heavy-duty pot with cold water. Place veal in water and slowly bring to a simmer. Cook veal for 5 minutes. Drain veal and wipe out pot. Place veal back in pot. Add veal stock to pot. With kitchen string tie the thyme, bay leaf and leek greens together. Place bundle into pot with the veal. Bring to a simmer and cook for at least 45 minutes, until veal is tender. Skim off impurities regularly. In separate pan, melt 2 tablespoons of butter and season with a touch of salt. Add leek whites, celery root and carrots and cook over low heat, covered, until tender. Add mushrooms and cook until mushrooms are tender. Add remaining butter. Sprinkle flour over mixture. Place pan back on heat. Cook for 2-5 minutes. Do not allow flour or vegetables to burn. Add cream and bring to a simmer. Using a ladle, add four ounces of veal broth to vegetables. Stir well and pour out vegetable cream mixture into pot that contains veal. Season with salt and white pepper. Cook until slightly thickened. Add haricots verts and set aside. Add lemon juice and stir. In a separate pot, cook egg noodles in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain, add butter, toss well and season with salt and pepper. Divide noodles in four warm bowls. Add veal stew to each bowl. Garnish with chervil sprigs. Serves 4 Salted Caramel Cheesecake From Chef Frederic Kieffer of Gaia Restaurant 8 ounces Philadelphia cream cheese 1/2 cup sugar 3 large eggs 1/2 cup sour cream 8 small tight-fitting Mason jars Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In a large bowl, beat cream cheese and sugar until creamy. Add eggs one at a time. Mix in sour cream and beat until just smooth. Pass through a fine strainer. Fill individual jars with cheesecake mixture. Set jars in a large baking dish or roasting pan. Set baking dish in the oven and pour enough water to reach halfway up the sides of the jars. (Do not cover the jars at this point.) Bake for 10 minutes. Turn off oven. Cool cheesecakes in oven for 2 hours. Refrigerate jars until cheesecake is solid. Add a thin coating of caramel mixture (recipe follows), approximately two tablespoons, to each jar. Seal and refrigerate; will keep one month. Caramel mixture, before lid goes on: 3/4 cup light corn syrup 11/4 cups sugar 6 tablespoons butter 1 cup heavy cream Salt to taste In a heavy, non-reactive saucepan, heat corn syrup. Before boiling, add sugar, stirring well. Cook until dark amber and smoking. Remove from heat. Stir in butter. Add cream in three additions. Stir well until mixture is smooth. Carefully pass mixture through a strainer. Cool. Add salt to taste (between one and three teaspoons). Serves 8-10 - JLK

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