Versatile American shrimp can stand up to strong flavors, as demonstrated by these skewered crustaceans, glazed with a honey-chili pepper sauce. Photo Credit: COURTESY WILD AMERICAN SHRIMP
	American Shrimp Plump, Luscious and Sustainable By Carole Kotkin
		Whether daring or pedestrian, American diners have placed shrimp on a culinary pedestal. A versatile, wine-friendly main ingredient with the appeal of lobster and the availability of salmon, the shellfish has long been used in a plethora of delicious coastal cuisines around the globe, including those of our own southern and gulf coasts. But only recently have Americans begun to realize that the abundance of shrimp we have habitually been cooking and gobbling like potato chips - more than a billion pounds per year - may not necessarily come from our waters. Rather, 88 percent of the shrimp consumed in the United States is harvested from places such as Central America, Vietnam, China, Thailand and Indonesia, where shrimp fisheries have variously come under fire for "pond-raising" and "bottom dragging," consequently destroying mangrove hammocks, harming delicate coral ecosystems and polluting nearby water systems through the flushing of waste. America is one of the few countries that supports and enforces sustainable shrimping. But responsible methods such as trapping shrimp in their natural habitats and avoiding overfishing cost significantly more money, the price of which must be passed along to the consumer. Asking an uninformed consumer to absorb the difference, however, is not an easy sell, a fact that shrimpers are trying to change in order to salvage their livelihoods. In small coastal towns in the South, both east and west, generations of shrimpers face unemployment because of cheap, frozen, unethically raised shrimp flooding the market from overseas. And just as there are some who fail to appreciate these political and environmental nuances, many are unfamiliar with the varieties of American wild shrimp, which are far superior to the bulk of pallid, compromised imports. Globally, there are nine families of shrimp, comprising almost 1,600 individual species, with each offering a different flavor profile and texture composition. Best known are four categories of domestic warm water shrimp: white (actually pale gray in color), wild-caught off the coast of Jacksonville, Florida; wild-caught pinks from Key West and the Tortugas (they obtain their pretty color from the coral they eat); and wild brown-shelled with purple-colored tails from coastal regions along the Gulf of Mexico. Imported farm-raised shrimp are either black tigers (so-called because of their stripes) or white shrimp grown primarily in Asian countries. The latter variety is now the most widely distributed and consumed shrimp in the U.S. and is the culprit responsible for the decline of the American shrimp industry. Fortunately, domestic shrimpers, government agencies and activist chefs are working toward correcting this imbalance. For example, the Southern Shrimp Alliance, a nonprofit organization that represents the shrimp industry of eight southern states (Florida, the Carolinas, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Texas and Louisiana), was formed in 2003 to protest unfair trading practices in 15 Asian and South American countries. John Williams, secretary-treasurer of the alliance, and owner of Gulf Partners and Northside Seafood Market in Tarpon Springs, Florida, has been a shrimper since 1967. "Making a living at catching shrimp these days is tough," he says. "Surging imports have pushed down prices for U.S. producers. Domestic ocean-caught shrimp simply cannot compete in a commodity market against farm-raised imported shrimp." Last year, the U.S. Commerce Department sided with the alliance and imposed tariffs on shrimp imports from six countries (Thailand, China, Brazil, Vietnam, India and Ecuador) that bring in the preponderance of shrimp. "It's too early to tell the effect of the tariffs, but there is a decrease in the amount of imports," Williams says. "Through marketing programs, we are trying to make the public aware of the superiority of domestic shrimp." Wild American Shrimp Inc., another nonprofit corporation, was created in 2004 with a $6 million grant from the U.S. government to help educate the food industry and consumers about the benefits of naturally raised domestic shrimp. "Buying wild shrimp will help preserve a way of life for the many Southerners who work in the industry. Shrimp is the key to the fisheries in the Southeast," notes executive director Eddie Gordon. "If you take it away, you're going to have whole communities collapsing." Gordon also emphasizes that farm-raised shrimp has a bland, non-taste to it while wild is sweeter and has a crisper bite; poses a more interesting challenge for sommeliers; and comes complete with added benefits: "Our wild shrimp is the shrimp most of us grew up eating. It comes from 'God's natural pond' - the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf - and is lower in fat and cholesterol, and higher in protein and healthful omega-3 fatty acids than farm-raised shrimp." He explains that, just as wild salmon is pricier than farmed, wild shrimp typically costs more. But it's worth it; Gordon says that "it tastes so much better and, unlike farmed varieties, it's antibiotic-free." A distinctive Wild American Shrimp certification mark now adorns shrimp packages and restaurant menus, indicating that the shellfish come from the Gulf of Mexico or South Atlantic waters. "We hope to make this a trademark for quality and consistency similar to the name recognition associated with Angus beef, Vidalia onions and wild Alaskan salmon," Gordon explains. "We are optimistic that this program will wake the consumer up and get them to start asking questions." And similar to appellation laws with which wine lovers are familiar, the U.S. Agriculture Department's mandatory Country of Origin Labeling (COOL) for seafood went into effect this April. Plus, each southern state promotes their own wild-caught shrimp in campaigns such as Florida's Wild & Wonderful Florida Shrimp. The combination of these initiatives means easier identification for those looking for wild-caught American varieties. It's difficult for consumers to distinguish how wild shrimp are caught, but the distinction is critical to a healthy ecosystem. According to environmentalists, most wild shrimp have traditionally been taken by trawlers that damage the sea floor and ensnare unsought species in their nets. Henry Lovejoy, president and founder of EcoFish in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, a company that distributes environmentally responsible seafood, says, "For every pound of shrimp caught [in this manner], there are seven pounds or so of untargeted sea life, known as 'by-catch,' that is tossed back overboard, most of it dead." The good news for environmentalists as well as concerned consumers is that domestic shrimpers are now required to use by-catch reduction and turtle excluder devices. Additionally, Florida and the shrimp industry have established a "nursery" or "no fish" area to ensure that the shrimp population is maintained. EcoFish's organic shrimp is raised in Clewiston, Florida, in freshwater ponds that are fed by underground aquifers. "The farm is located far from the ocean and the well water is filtered and recirculated, which avoids the habitat destruction and pollution normally associated with shrimp farming around the world. We feed the shrimp an all-natural diet that is hormone, chemical and antibiotic free," Lovejoy explains. EcoFish's retail products are all quick frozen within hours of harvest. Besides its Florida-raised shrimp, the company sells wild cold-water pink shrimp from Newfoundland and wild spot prawns from Alaska. "The cold-water shrimp, caught in traps like lobster in small fisheries, are firmer in texture and sweeter," he says. Sustainable seafood may not be at the forefront of diners' minds, and restaurants are not required to convey their seafood's origins to their customers, but it is an issue that is finally making waves with American chefs, as more and more opt to feature seafood deemed healthier for the environment. Some are going so far as to become spokespersons. Chef Emeril Lagasse, host of the popular Food Network show and owner of the acclaimed Emeril's restaurants, says, "I'm proud to be a part of the campaign, especially working with Louisiana shrimpers. I've met many shrimpers whose families have been in the shrimping business for generations and they have been battling to stay in business. [They] deserve our support in helping maintain their way of life..." Ironically, some of these same shrimpers are now criticizing Lagasse's product, "Emeril's Louisiana Shrimp," for being substandard. With broken tails and pieces, plus black spots, they say the shrimp don't seem to be top-of-the-catch Grade A, an opinion that was corroborated by Eddie Gordon, executive director of the Wild American Shrimp campaign. Such poor quality won't help move Louisiana shrimp into a more visible consumer bracket, they note, nor preserve their reputation or integrity, never mind their vocation. Whether or not the claims are true, the shrimp situation clearly won't be resolved by just one celebrity backer. "I think we have a certain obligation to support local fishermen," says Johnny Earles, chef-proprietor of Criolla's, a Florida Panhandle restaurant in Santa Rosa Beach. Earles, who worked as a commercial crawfish trapper while attending college, has "an immense appreciation for the process" of shrimping. "I take my young chefs, fresh out of culinary school, out fishing with me. It teaches them respect, not just for the living thing they've pulled from the water, but for those who are out there doing the work." Although his elegant seafood restaurant is landlocked, AcquaKnox's executive chef Tom Moloney is doing his part, partnering with small family purveyors for prime product. He prefers Sweet Royal Reds, deepwater shrimp from the Gulf for his Las Vegas restaurant, located in the Venetian Hotel, and reserves "99 percent of a single trawler just for us," he says. Executive chef Dean Max, of 3030 Ocean, located in Fort Lauderdale's seaside Marriott Harbor Beach Resort, has easier access. "I believe in supporting our area," he says. "With so many choices, it's important to develop a good relationship with a purveyor who you know delivers a good, consistent product. If someone calls and tells me he has beautiful [local] shrimp, I tell him to send them over and they go on the menu that night," Max says. He also likes to feature Florida lobster-textured rock shrimp on his daily menu that, because of its extremely tough, rigid exoskeleton, did not have the large market popularity of its cousins until the 1980s, when a machine was invented that would split the shell and devein the shrimp, thereby making peeled rock shrimp readily available for use in restaurants and in the home. At McCrady's Restaurant in the heart of Charleston's French Quarter District, executive chef Michael Kramer utilizes sautéed wild fresh Florida rock shrimp to stuff into a crêpe, along with braised artichokes and roasted tomatoes, and accents their lusciousness with a truffle cream. But mostly he buys Carolina white heads-on shrimp from fishermen right out of the harbor. "It's as fresh as it gets," he says. He also enjoys harvesting shrimp himself. "I stand on the dock and throw the net off, while at the same time holding part of the cord in my mouth. It's quite a feat in itself." He then sautés his catch and props them in a purée of celery root with an Oloroso Sherry sauce, pairing it with a Pouilly-Fuissé to "counter the richness." Clay Conley, chef de cuisine at The Mandarin Oriental's Azul Restaurant in Miami, has extensive experience cooking in Asia - and with Asian shrimp. But while his food may remain influenced by both Asia and the Mediterranean, he's equally as aware of local product. To that end, he prefers fresh wild American shrimp for dishes such as ricotta gnocchi tossed with roasted tomatoes, roasted fennel and a touch of chilis, then crowned with whole - as in head on - garlicky grilled shrimp. "Shrimp cooked with the head on are moist and there is no loss of juices. The shrimp are much more flavorful, sort of like chicken roasted on the bone," he says. Azul's sommelier, Richard Hales, recommends a Pichler 2001 Riesling from Austria to pair with grilled shrimp. "The ripe fruit sweetness with a backbone of acidity brings out the smoky sweetness in the shrimp," he says. The same advice works well for barbecued shrimp recipes, such as Emeril Lagasse's hallmark and Johnny Earles's house staple. "Criolla's menu is constantly changing. We create 100 new dishes per year," he says. "But barbecued shrimp has been on it for 24 years." Simply put together with butter, freshly ground pepper and homemade Worcestershire sauce, the dish relies on the freshness and inherent flavor of the shrimp, which is why Earles only buys local, seasonal and American shellfish (as well as other fish and seafood) regardless of expense: "People remember super-special presentations and tricked-out plates, but dishes like the barbecued Gulf shrimp are the ones that hit them in their souls." Max, who is also the author of the recently published book A Life by the Sea, has an intuitive sense for satisfying the spiritual as well as the physical needs of the diner, deep-frying sesame batter-coated shrimp to crispy perfection and setting them atop an avocado purée, drizzled with a citrus-lemon grass-fennel sauce. He serves an Alsatian Pinot Gris with this dish because it is dry and crisp but without searing acidity, and balances the citrus in the sauce and the avocado. His kitchen also turns out sashimi of sweetwater prawns with pickled cucumbers and soy vinaigrette that he says calls for Riesling or Gewürztraminer to bring out the sweetness of the shrimp: "The texture of this shrimp gets very mushy when cooked, so I would rather eat this raw and be able to taste the clean, subtle flavors." Indeed, when all is said and done - or argued and labeled - flavor is reason alone to favor American shrimp. Earles, who prefers Gulf shrimp from a fishery in Alabama, asks, "Why buy an inferior product processed on some ship off the coast of a third-world country? I know where these shrimp come from. They're far superior. They're handled with care - and that makes all the difference." Food Editor Carole Kotkin manages the Ocean Reef Club Cooking School in Key Largo; is a syndicated columnist for KnightRidder; is co-author of Mmmmiami; and co-hosts Food & Wine Talk on WDNA FM. The Skinny on Shrimp o When buying shrimp, in addition to asking the fishmonger about appellation and harvesting method, be certain that it smells fresh with no off odors, especially ammonia or iodine. Also check the shells for yellowing, black spots or dry patches that indicate freezer burn. o For the best flavor, buy shrimp that has not been pre-peeled. Peel them yourself and use the shells to make a shrimp broth. If you are grilling, leave the shells on to prevent the flesh from drying out. o The intestinal vein should be removed because it can impart a bitter taste. o Cook shrimp over low to moderate heat. They are usually done when they turn pink, about 1 to 2 minutes per side, based on size. Cut into one to make sure. - CK Recipes Sashimi of Sweetwater Prawns with Pickled Cucumber & Soy Vinaigrette From A Life by the Sea by Chef Dean Max 5 whole fresh water prawns Sea salt to taste 12 tablespoons soy vinaigrette (recipe follows) 2 Japanese cucumbers 2 cups pickling juice (recipe follows) Peel the prawns and clean the shell from the tail meat. Slice the tail down the center being careful not to cut completely through. Rinse the tail meat with cold water to remove any grit. Season the shrimp with fine sea salt and marinate in the soy vinaigrette. Keep very cold until needed. Slice cucumbers in long, thin strips. and place in pickling juice for 1 hour. Remove and season with sea salt. To serve, place equal amounts of the cucumber slices on small serving plates. Set one of the prawns on each plate. Spoon the soy vinaigrette over the prawns and serve very cold. Serves 6 For the Pickling Juice: 2 shallots, minced 1/2 cup onion, chopped 1/2 cup carrot, chopped 1 garlic bulb, halved 3 jalapeño peppers, chopped 1 tablespoon mustard seeds 1 tablespoon black pepper 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 2 bay leaves 1 teaspoon cloves 1 cup sugar 2 cups Champagne vinegar 2 cups water In a saucepan, boil all ingredients for 5 minutes. Let mixture cool at room temperature giving it time to steep. When the liquid has cooled, pass it through a fine strainer. Refrigerate until needed. Makes 4 cups For the Soy Vinaigrette: 2 tablespoons fresh grated wasabi root 1/4 cup soy sauce 1 tablespoon brown sugar 2 green onions, chopped 1 serrano chili, chopped 2 tablespoons mirin 4 tablespoons rice wine vinegar 1/4 cup sesame oil 3/4 cup grapeseed oil In a saucepan, warm the wasabi, soy, sugar, onions and chili gently together and reduce down to 4 tablespoons of liquid. Strain the mixture and whisk in the mirin, vinegar, sesame oil and grapeseed oil. Makes 1 cup Sesame Gulf Shrimp with Avocado Purée & Florida Citrus Sauce From A Life by the Sea by Chef Dean Max 18 Gulf shrimp (10-count size) 1 cup flour Pinch sesame seeds Pinch baking soda 1 cup soda water Fine sea salt to taste 3 avocados 2 tablespoons sesame oil 2 limes, juiced 1 shallot, minced 6 cups peanut oil 1 cup Florida citrus sauce (recipe follows) In a nonreactive bowl, whisk the flour, sesame seeds, baking soda, soda water and salt. Chill the batter in refrigerator until needed. Purée avocados with sesame oil, lime juice, shallot and salt. Set aside. Clean the shells from the body of the shrimp and devein them. In a small, deep fryer, heat oil to 350°. Dip shrimp in batter while holding the tail fins. Carefully dip the shrimp 3/4 of the way into the oil and hold it there for 4 seconds before letting go. Repeat the process for 2 to 3 more shrimp and fry in batches of 3 to 4 at a time. Transfer shrimp to a warm plate covered with a paper towel to drain. Season with salt to taste. Spoon equal amounts of avocado purée on each of 6 plates. Position 3 shrimp in the avocado purée. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of citrus sauce. Serves 6 For the Florida Citrus Sauce: 1 grapefruit 2 oranges 1 lemon 1 lime 1 tangerine 2 kumquats 1 stalk lemon grass, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh chopped ginger 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 1 tablespoon fennel seeds 2 shallots, minced 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 tablespoons fresh pressed peanut oil 3/4 cup grapeseed oil In a nonreactive bowl, segment the grapefruit, oranges, lemon, lime and tangerine, reserving the juice and zest. Thinly slice the kumquats and remove seeds. Add kumquats to segments. In a small pot, place the juice, zest, ginger, lemon grass, coriander, fennel and shallots and reduce over medium heat. When the juice has reduced to almost a paste, press it through a fine mesh strainer. Add it to the bowl with the segments and whisk in the vinegar and oils. Season with salt and fresh ground pepper. Makes 1 cup Emeril's Barbecued Shrimp From Chef Emeril Lagasse 2 pounds medium (21-24 count) raw shrimp in their shells 1 tablespoon Emeril's Original Essence or Creole Seasoning 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup Barbecue Sauce Base (recipe follows) 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces Peel and devein the shrimp, leaving only their tails attached. Season the shrimp with Essence and black pepper, tossing to coat evenly. Cover and refrigerate. In a large skillet over high heat, warm the oil. Add shrimp and cook, stirring until they begin to turn pink, about 2 minutes. Add cream and barbecue sauce. Reduce heat to medium-high and simmer, stirring, until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Transfer shrimp to a platter. Gradually whisk butter into sauce. Remove from heat. On each of 4 to 6 plates, divide shrimp and top each serving with a tablespoon of sauce. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6 For the Barbecue Sauce Base: 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onions 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper 3 bay leaves 1 tablespoon minced garlic 3 lemons, peeled, white pith removed, and quartered 1/2 cup dry white wine 2 cups shrimp stock 1 cup Worcestershire sauce In a medium, heavy saucepan over medium high heat, warm oil. Add onions, salt, pepper and bay leaves, and cook, stirring, until onions are soft, about 2 minutes. Add garlic, lemons and white wine, and cook for 2 minutes. Add shrimp stock and Worcestershire sauce, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until sauce is reduced to 1/2 cup, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Strain sauce through a fine mesh strainer, pressing on the solids with the back of a spoon. Set aside until needed. (The sauce base can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days, or frozen for up to 2 months.) Makes 1/2 cup Honey-Chili Glazed Wild American Shrimp Skewers Courtesy of Wild American Shrimp 1/2 cup honey 2 tablespoons paprika 1 tablespoon fresh, finely chopped chili pepper 1 teaspoon salt 2 pounds 16-20 count shrimp, peeled and deveined 2 cups honeydew melon, cut into 1" pieces 2 cups diced mango In a large skillet over medium-high heat, combine honey, paprika, chile pepper and salt. Add shrimp and simmer 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until shrimp are opaque. Remove shrimp; reserve and chill honey mixture. On wooden skewers, alternate shrimp with melons and mangoes. Place on plates and pour honey mixture over skewers. Refrigerate and serve cold. Makes 10 to 12 skewers Mississippi Gulf Shrimp with Orzo Courtesy of Wild American Shrimp 2 cups uncooked orzo 2 tomatoes, diced 1 cup minced green onions 8 ounces feta cheese, crumbled 4 tablespoons butter 1 pound wild American shrimp 4 garlic cloves, minced Salt and pepper to taste Old Bay seasoning, optional 2 tablespoons lemon juice 6 to 8 basil leaves, torn into small pieces Preheat oven to 375°. In a saucepan, boil orzo in salted water for about 10 minutes or until al dente. Drain well but keep in same pot. Add tomato and onions, stir to mix. Add crumbled feta, stir again. Transfer to a buttered baking dish and bake for 15 minutes. In a medium-size skillet over medium-high heat, melt butter, then add shrimp and garlic. Season with salt, pepper and Old Bay seasoning, if using. Sauté quickly just until shrimp turn pink. Add lemon juice and basil, stir. Place shrimp on top of orzo, serve at once. Serves 8 Rock Shrimp Crêpes From Chef Michael Kramer For the Truffle Cream: 1 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 teaspoon truffle oil 1 teaspoon truffles, chopped Salt White pepper For the Black Olive Purée: 1/2 cup black olives, pitted 3/4 cups olive oil For the Basil Oil: 1 bunch basil leaves 1 cup spinach, stemmed 11/2 cups canola salad oil For the Crêpes: 1/2 cup flour, sifted 2 eggs 3/4 cup milk 2 tablespoons melted butter 1 teaspoon chives, chopped Pinch of salt Pinch of white pepper Pan spray Micro arugula for garnish For the Rock Shrimp: 1/4 cup canola salad oil 12 ounces fresh rock shrimp 4 artichoke hearts, cleaned, blanched and quartered 6 Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded, roasted 1 teaspoon garlic, peeled, chopped Salt White pepper Preheat oven to 350°. For the Truffle Cream: In a medium pot over medium heat add heavy cream. Mix the cornstarch with a small of water to make a slurry and set aside. Bring the cream to a boil, add the cornstarch/water mixture to thicken. Cook 3-5 minutes until corn starch dissolves. Strain through a fine mesh strainer. Season with truffle oil, truffles, salt and white pepper. Set aside, keep warm. For the Black Olive Purée: Place pitted olives in a blender with olive oil. Blend well. Season with salt and pepper. For the Basil Oil: In a blender purée the basil leaves, spinach leaves and canola oil. Blend well for 3 minutes. Add mixture to a small sauce pan over medium heat. Bring to a boil and simmer 10 minutes. Remove from heat, let sit for 10 minutes, then strain through a coffee filter. Set aside. For the Crêpes: Place flour in medium size bowl. Mix together eggs, milk and melted butter. Add to flour and mix well, add chives and season with salt and pepper. To make crêpes place a 10" sauté pan over medium heat, coat pan with pan spray. Ladle in about 1 1/2 ounces of crêpe batter and coat bottom of pan. Pour off any excess. Place pan on heat, when sides begin to brown turn. Keep on heat for another 30 seconds, and take out of pan and place on a plate to cool. Repeat until you have 8 crêpes. To serve: in a small sauté pan over medium heat, add the canola oil. Season the rock shrimp well with salt and pepper. Place rock shrimp in the pan and sauté just until coated through. Add the artichokes, tomatoes, garlic, and quickly sauté for 1 minute. Set aside and keep warm. In the oven, heat crêpes on a baking sheet for 30 seconds then remove from oven. Place some of the rock shrimp mixture on the crêpe and roll into a cylinder. Cut the ends off. Sauce the plate with truffle cream, olive purée and basil oil. Place crêpe on top of sauce. Serves 4 - CK

	home • cover story • commentary • feature • buyline complimentary taste • past issues • writers • subscribe
	Wine News P.O. Box 14-2096 Coral Gables, FL 33114 Telephone: 305.740.7170 Fax: 305.740.7153