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Wine Reviews from Wine News
tasters' choice selections
94
Beringer, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Private Reserve, Napa Valley
Dense black hue. Earthy, tarry, smoky aromas of plum, gravel, coffee, mint and shoe leather. Luscious, chalky flavors of black cherry, blueberry, sweet oak, chocolate and cola. Brown sugar, tea and tobacco highlight the multilayered close. $116 / 14,200 cases
93
Ilsley Vineyards, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley
Deep purple hue. Loamy aromas of plum, fig, tobacco, treacle and clove are layered and well balanced. Supple, creamy flavors of blackberry, cherry, chocolate and minerals are intense without being overwrought. Coffee and cola in the juicy close. $48
93
Sequoia Grove, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Intense purple hue. Heady, ripe blueberry aromas with a subtle mineral influence. Ripe plum, raspberry and new oak flavors. There is a lushness to this wine that balances between supple fruit and cleansing minerals. $32
93
Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Indian Wells, Columbia Valley, Washington
Ruby-black hue. Big aromas of black currant, coconut, minerals and cola. Toothsome flavors of blackberry, brambly plum and graphite peek out from behind the oak. Long finish features ginger and chocolate notes. $17
best value selections
94
Genesis, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, Washington
Medium crimson hue. Pronounced aromas of blueberry, molasses, damp gravel and coconut. Lush, seamlessly integrated flavors of ripe, sweet blackberry, blueberry and minerals; totally in control in the face of so much rich fruit. Long, well-fruited close. $15 / 15,786 cases
90
Elsa Bianchi, 2005 Malbec
San Rafael, Mendoza, Argentina
Black hue to the rim. Fragrant, peppery aromas of black fruit, earth and leather. Creamy flavors of sweet blackberry, earth, mocha and vanillin oak. Fruit-laced finish. $9
90
Snoqualmie, 2004 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, Washington
Yellow-gold hue. Exuberant aromas of mango, flowers and butterscotch. Soft, though four-square flavors of stone fruit and butter display impressive nuance. Continued lushness in the close. $11
90
Terrazas de los Andes, 2005 Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
Shimmering purple hue. Initial gamy notes blow off to reveal reserved scents of plum and violets. Sweet-tart flavors of plum, citrus and grilled meat have a pleasing, gritty texture. Fresh finish lush with black fruit. $10
publisher's pick
94
Stephenson Cellars, 2003 Syrah
Walla Walla Valley, Washington
Healthy garnet hue. Heady plum and blueberry aromas spiked with a resin nuance. Blueberry and plum fruit flavors are fleshy and deep seated with combed tannins and drying mineral accents. The finish is lengthy, packed with peppery dark fruit and a note of licorice. $28 / 230 cases
California
Chardonnay
87
Chateau St. Jean, 2003 Chardonnay
Reserve, Sonoma County
Interesting aromas of candied mango, warm honey and roasted chestnut. Unctuous flavors of lemon pie, honey and charred oak. Expansive close raises the wine's profile. $45
88
Dancing Bull, 2004 Chardonnay
California
Direct aromas of green pineapple, orange honey and nuts. Tight flavors of lime peel, stone fruit and minerals. Spicy finish. $12
87
Frei Brothers, 2004 Chardonnay
Reserve, Russian River Valley
Briny aromas of green apple and oak. Tangy pineapple flavors and a bit of honey. Bee pollen dustiness in the close. $20
90
Gainey Vineyard, 2004 Chardonnay
Santa Rita Hills
Lightly floral aromas of green banana and honey are seemingly unencumbered by oak. Viscous flavors of orange marmalade and honey. Long, youthful finish features a tobacco note. $19
87
Marimar Estate, 2003 Chardonnay
Don Miguel Vnyd, Russian River Valley
Briny, herbaceous aromas of honey and menthol. Youthful flavors of grapefruit and citrus peel couldn't differ more from the nose. Tangy wood notes in the close. $28
89
Morgan, 2004 Hat Trick Chardonnay
Double L Vnyd, Santa Lucia Highlands
Shy scents of campfire and dusty stone. A peach fuzz texture frames flavors of underripe pineapple and honey. Caramel appears in the close. $60
92
Shafer, 2004 Chardonnay
Red Shoulder Ranch, Carneros-Napa Vly
Lightly honeyed aromas of apricot and nuts. Unctuous flavors of peach preserves and clove have a honeyed sweetness and warmth, and may be a bit over the top for some. Lime notes in the long finish provide balance. $43
Sauvignon Blanc
90
Bernardus, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Monterey County
Very pungent aromas of citrus and green chilies show a hint of sweetness. Flavors of kiwi and bell pepper are more subtle than suggested by the nose but still quite pronounced. Emerging minerality in the close. $15
89
Bernardus, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco
Ripe aromas of apple and honeydew melon have a distinct grassiness. Puckeringly fresh flavors of lime, chili pepper and herbs. Seamless finish. $20
87
Field Stone, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Alexander Valley
Herbal scents of melon and minerals. Lively citrus flavors possess a stone fruit texture and good balance. Mild close. $16
86
Fritz, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Russian River Valley
Pungent aromas of gravel and dust cloud the fruit. Ripe flavors of red apple and lemon are more generous than the nose. Sweet finish. $18
88
Morgan, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Monterey
Very upfront aromas of lime peel and asparagus have a buttery pungency. An herbaceous mouthful of lime and grass. Spicy, though soft close. $16
88
Robert Hall, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Paso Robles
Grassy aromas of red apple and capsicum. Well-integrated flavors of pear and wet slate. Soft finish lingers pleasantly. $14
88
Tangent, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Paragon Vineyard, Edna Valley
Textbook aromas of lemon, minerals and grass. Tangy lime peel flavors have great appeal. Surprisingly long close. $13
Cabernet & Blends
89
Atlas Peak, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Ample wood frames aromas of plum, cherry, coffee and dust. Gritty, woodsy tannins mark flavors of raspberry, citrus and earth. Finishes with a sweet, fruit-filled flourish. $42
92
Charles Creek, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
La Sonrisa del Tecolote, Napa Valley
Intense raspberry aromas jump out of the glass. Supple and generous layers of plum and blueberry flavors have an edge of mintiness. Tasty finish with soft tannins and sweet fruit. $30
89
Chateau Potelle, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
VGS, Mt. Veeder, Napa Valley
Very youthful aromas of cedar, moist tobacco, bell pepper and oak char are a bit unyielding at present. Flavors of black currant, chocolate-covered orange peel, tea and mocha are far more forthcoming than suggested by the nose. Long close. $60
88
Chateau St. Jean, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Sonoma County
Dusty scents of orange and damp stone. Intense, racy flavors of blackberry, graphite and espresso. Mocha fills out the finish. $27
91
Dominus Estate, 2003 Dominus
20th Vintage, Napa Valley
Heady scents of cherry, plum, cola, oak char and shoe polish. Dry, minerally flavors of black cherry, cassis, eucalyptus and oak are intense and inky. Creamy close highlighted by a pecan sweetness. $109
88
Dry Creek Vineyard, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Dry Creek Valley
Reserved scents of root beer, dried leaves and dust. Lots of vivacious mixed berry and black coffee flavors. Youthful, uplifting finish. $21
86
Eberle, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Vineyard Selection, Paso Robles
Aromas of black coffee, damp stone and cedar leave the fruit in the background. Lean, raspy flavors of black fruit and coffee grinds. Acidic close. $17
91
Eberle, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Estate, Paso Robles
Warm aromas of briary berries, campfire and shoe polish. Supple flavors of huckleberry and bittersweet chocolate show great balance. Long finish sports bushels of brambly fruit notes. $29
87
Firestone, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Santa Ynez Valley
New oak aromas followed by black cherry and plum notes. Soft and accessible with the ripeness of fig and the sweetness of cherry juice. Lengthy close. $18
89
Flora Springs, 2003 Trilogy
Napa Valley
Warm, smoky aromas of briar, black earth and clove with a hint of mint. Crisp flavors of wild cherry, orange, new oak and mocha. Tangy, chocolate-infused close. $60
90
Franciscan, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Oakville Estate, Napa Valley
Dusty aromas of black fruit, smoked meat and slate. Concentrated flavors of date, pencil lead and gravel. Loads of earth in the lingering close. $28
87
Gallo Family, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Sonoma Reserve, Sonoma County
Fresh aromas of blueberry and pencil. Juicy and grapy with flavors of plum and wet stone. A clean, fruit-driven finish. $15
90
Hall, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Deep aromas of blackberry, slate, cedar and cola. Concentrated flavors of fig, plum, nutmeg and raspy wood. Sweet close exudes generosity. $35
89
Hook & Ladder, 2003 Third Alarm
Reserve, Russian River Valley
Hot, spicy scents of red berries and damp stone. Sweet flavors of raspberry, cinnamon, seasoned oak and vanilla. Sweetness pervades the finish. $30
88
Kenwood, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Jack London Vineyard, Sonoma Valley
Subdued aromas of dusty fruit, damp stone, grilled meat and cedar. Flavors of black fruit, maple and vanillin oak soften the wine's bracing acidity. Finishes a touch warm. $30
88
Kenwood, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Sonoma County
Fresh cherry aromas laced with a smoky campfire note. Spicy cherry flavors have a youthful, peppery edge. Dry, well-oaked close. $18
91
Ladera, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Howell Mountain, Napa Valley
Very sweet aromas of blueberry, plum, brown sugar, cedar and slow-to-emerge oak. Silky flavors of black cherry, coffee, cola and wood are a touch warm. Spritzy finish exudes fruit. $68
87
Lake Sonoma, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley
Stewed cherry and redwood aromas. Tart and crisp with plenty of red fruit and cedar flavors. A youthful, tannic close ends on a spicy note. $22
87
Léal Vineyards, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Unfiltered, San Benito
Pronounced aromas of fig, soy and treacle. Creamy flavors of sweet-tart red berries, minerals and oak spice. Baking spices pretty up the finish. $24
91
Lincourt, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
La Cuesta Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley
Nice mix of black earth, plum and mint aromas. Spicy black fruit flavors with cedar notes. Attractive toasted oak nuance lingers front-to-back. $35
86
Mirassou, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
California
Charred oak and black earth aromas. Bright cherry flavors with youthful tannins. Sweet, pleasant close. $11
89
Pellegrini Family, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Cloverdale Ranch, Alexander Valley
Smoky aromas of coffee and mineral. Inky flavors of blackberry, citrus and minerals are well integrated if somewhat tight at present. Sweetens up in the close. $23
86
Red Truck, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
California
Pungent, earthy aromas with notes of plum and minerals. Good weight with black cherry and oak flavors laced with youthful tannins. Crisp finish. $13
89
Robert Craig, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Howell Mountain, Napa Valley
Warm aromas of stewed fruit, cedar, damp stone and minerals. Spicy flavors of strawberry, cranberry and coffee are appealing if very different than the nose. Astringent close brings it down a notch. $70
86
Robert Hall, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Paso Robles
Cedar box and mocha aromas. Crisp strawberry flavors have a defined earthy nuance. Red fruit and fine-grain tannins reside in the finish. $18
90
Robert Mondavi, 2003 Oakville Cabernet
Oakville, Napa Valley
Piercing aromas of brambly blackberry, plum, menthol and fresh herbs. Clean, raspy flavors of cherry, cassis, chocolate and black pepper are very appealing if not exactly lush. Tingly close shows a charred nuance. $40
92
Rodney Strong, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Sonoma County
Complex scents of blueberry, rum cake, leather, soy and charred oak. Mouth-filling, though not cumbersome flavors of citrus, cherry, black raspberry and coffee. Zingy close shows off mocha notes. $40
90
Rutherford Hill, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Bright aromas of plum and cedar with a dusting of cocoa powder. Smooth, well-grounded flavors of mixed berries and minerals. Long, seamless finish encompasses fruit and spice notes. $35
92
Scarecrow, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Rutherford, Napa Valley
Reserved, dusty aromas of blackberry, plum, mocha, clove and earth with an intriguing smoked meat note. Chalky flavors of cherry preserves, plum, mocha and coffee. Close drips ripe black fruit. $100
87
Sebastiani, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Sonoma County
Bright aromas of black currant and mocha with fig notes slowly emerging. Spicy flavors of rhubarb, mint and wood. Hot finish. $17
90
Silver Stag, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Pungent aromas of fig jam, pencil lead, smoke, damp earth and mocha. Intense flavors of cherry cola, raspberry, sweet oak and coffee. Fruit cake spice in the close. $75
88
Smith & Hook, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Grand Reserve, Santa Lucia Highlands
Cherry pie aromas with notes of oak and new leather. Supple plum flavors with mineral notes. Good length with fine sandpaper tannins. $25
87
St. Supéry, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Fresh cherry and vanilla aromas. Dry, peppery red fruit flavors with obvious woody tannins. This is a four-square, well-made wine that needs time to turn the corner. $28
92
Stags' Leap Winery, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Well-integrated aromas of cherry, brown sugar, tobacco and German chocolate cake frosting. Rich flavors of blackberry, chocolate, nutmeg and creamed coffee. Velvety finish replete with fruit. $48
86
Wild Horse, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Paso Robles
Aromas of plum, cedar box and tobacco. Tart, dry flavors of rhubarb and citrus. A few puffs of tobacco emerge in the close. $20
85
Stevenot, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Calaveras County
$16
84
Turner Road, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Appellation Series, Paso Robles
$11
Pinot Noir
89
Buena Vista, 2004 Pinot Noir
Ramal Vineyard, Carneros
Ripe aromas of blueberry, coffee and charcoal with garden notes. Creamy flavors of cherry, plum and minerals. Soft, seamless close. $37
88
Buena Vista, 2004 Pinot Noir
Ramal Vineyard, Dijon Clones, Carneros
Warm aromas of dried tobacco, damp stone and new oak push the fruit to the background. Crisp, woodsy flavors of plum, black cherry and mint. Concentrated finish. $37
88
Buena Vista, 2004 Pinot Noir
Ramal Vineyard, Swan Selections, Carneros
Cedary aromas of black cherry, maple and tobacco show bacon fat notes. Slightly medicinal flavors of plum, spice and pencil shavings. Agreeable close. $37
89
Rodney Strong, 2003 Pinot Noir
Reserve, Jane's Vnyd, Russian River Valley
Raspy aromas of rhubarb, tomato leaf and shoe polish. Earthy flavors of mixed berries and pencil lead pick up significantly. Toothsome finish. $35
Oregon
Chardonnay
88
Chehalem, 2003 Chardonnay
Ian's Reserve, Willamette Valley
Fresh apple, clove and oak aromas. Ripe pineapple flavors with mineral accents. The finish is marked by juicy, accessible fruit, oak and minerals. $28
91
Hamacher, 2002 Chardonnay
Cuvée Forets Diverses, Willamette Valley
Charred oak, banana and clove aromas. Packed with tropical fruit flavors and a supple, nectar-like sweetness. Spicy oak and youthful acidity pick up in the lengthy finish. $30
86
Ponzi Vineyards, 2005 Chardonnay
Willamette Valley
Very sweet aromas of sliced cantaloupe and peach. Flavors of pineapple juice and apple take the sweetness down a notch. Tart close. $20
Pinot Blanc & Gris
87
Chehalem, 2005 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley
Light honeydew melon aromas. Sweet-tart flavors of citrus peel and minerals. Fruit-driven finish is crisp and clean. $18
88
King Estate, 2004 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley
Fresh lime scents with a whiff of petrol. Tangy melon and lime flavors. Dry, flinty close holds on to a lingering, controlled sweetness. $15
87
Ponzi Vineyards, 2005 Pinot Blanc
Willamette Valley
Highly perfumed aromas of sweet red apple and anise. Palate-whetting flavors of apple and pear are of quaffing weight and structure. Dries up a bit in the finish. $17
88
Ponzi Vineyards, 2005 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley
Subtle aromas of honeydew melon, pencil shavings and minerals. Punchy green apple flavors show very good balance. Apple core tartness in the close. $17
Pinot Noir
91
Archery Summit, 2003 Pinot Noir
Red Hills Estate, Willamette Valley
Quite pungent aromas of plum, cedar, sweet smoke and iodine. Tooth-sticking flavors of red berries, cherry, earth and cinnamon. Long, woodsy finish concludes sweetly. $75
92
Archery Summit, 2003 Pinot Noir
Archery Summit Estate, Willamette Valley
Wood is first out of the box, leading to additional aromas of cherry skin, pencil, cola and clove with citrus notes. Chewy flavors of cherry, citrus, bitter chocolate and black pepper. A taut wine in need of ample air. Tingly close shows lots of spice. $150
92
Archery Summit, 2003 Pinot Noir
Arcus Estate, Willamette Valley
Port-like aromas of fig, date, molasses and minerals. Concentrated, extracted, supple flavors of blackberry, coffee, chocolate and vanilla; not particularly varietal, but enjoyable nonetheless. Seamless finish despite the wine's heft. $75
88
Archery Summit, 2003 Pinot Noir
Premier Cuvée, Willamette Valley
Heady scents of blueberry, clove and brown sugar. Flavors of black cherry, semisweet chocolate and maple are ripe and sweet, but not out of balance. Tangy close. $37
91
Archery Summit, 2003 Pinot Noir
Renegade Ridge, Willamette Valley
Expressive aromas of cherry skin, plum, tobacco and peppermint. Layered, juicy flavors of cherry, minerals and coffee grounds are loaded with super-sweet fruit but not out of balance. Spicy, very youthful finish. $60
87
Chehalem, 2004 Pinot Noir
3 Vineyard, Willamette Valley
Pungent scents of rhubarb and tree bark with a menthol warmth. Tart flavors of raspberry and damp leaves. Puckering close needs time to soften. $27
90
Hamacher, 2002 Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley
Lively, brambly aromas of dried cherry, mint and lavender. Dry, intense flavors of tart cherry and damp stone. Tooth-coating finish shows some nimbleness. $40
88
King Estate, 2003 Pinot Noir
Signature Collection, Willamette Valley
Loamy aromas of moist tobacco, wet slate and campfire. Lively acidity delivers flavors of dried berries and tobacco. A bit dilute in the close. $25
88
Le Cadeau Vineyard, 2003 Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley
Gamy scents of mocha, clove, pencil and earth place the fruit in the background. Very sweet flavors of cherry, brown sugar and flint are framed by cedary tannins. Tarts up a bit in the finish. $40
89
Ponzi Vineyards, 2004 Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley
Earthy, brambly scents of raspberry and tobacco with a lightening cinnamon note. Soft, lively flavors of strawberry, vanilla, redwood and iodine. Easy, non-biting close. $35
88
WillaKenzie Estate, 2003 Pinot Noir
Aliette, Willamette Valley
Deep scents of plum, toasty oak and caramel. Inky, minerally flavors of blackberry and vanilla. Long close shows off generous fruit. $36
90
WillaKenzie Estate, 2003 Pinot Noir
Kiana, Willamette Valley
Bold, dusty aromas of stewed cherry, smoke and cedar. Ripe flavors of cherry and strawberry have a cola-like vivacity. Vanilla dresses up the close. $45
87
WillaKenzie Estate, 2004 Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley
Gamy aromas of stewed berries and earth with a reluctant perfume note emerging with air. Tangy flavors of cherry, wood and pencil shavings. Light-bodied finish. $23
91
WillaKenzie Estate, 2003 Pinot Noir
Triple Black Slopes, Willamette Valley
Forward aromas of cherry, cedar box and earth with wisps of smoke and eucalyptus. Flavors of raspberry, mocha and vanilla bean have great mouth-feel. Dries up a tad in the close. $55
Washington
Chardonnay
88
Avery Lane, 2004 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
Forward aromas of banana, pineapple and sliced apple. Supple and buttery with nectar-like flavors of peach, apple and grilled pineapple. Lengthy, ready-to-drink finish. $7
91
Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2004 Chardonnay
Canoe Ridge Estate, Columbia Valley
Fresh pineapple, oak and nutmeg aromas. Rather rich in style with layers of honeyed citrus and mineral flavors. A combination of lemon drop and toasted oak makes for an enjoyable close. $20
87
Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2004 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
Dominant oak aromas with hints of fruit vying for attention. Honeyed peach and pineapple flavors with an ever-present oakiness. This is an extremely ripe, well-oaked Chardonnay; love it or leave it. $13
91
Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2004 Chardonnay
Indian Wells, Columbia Valley
A nice mesh of oak, peach and vanilla aromas. Silky smooth with creamy tropical fruit flavors and a suggestion of charred oak. Excellent length emitting banana, honey and brown spice notes. $17
86
Covey Run, 2004 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
Aromas of pineapple, brine and wood. Forceful flavors of banana peel and oak char. Tarts up significantly in the close. $9
86
Covey Run, 2003 Chardonnay
Reserve, Washington
Piercing scents of lemon oil and paraffin. Buttery texture houses flavors of lime peel, apple and wood. Astringent finish. $22
90
Hogue Cellars, 2004 Chardonnay
Reserve, Columbia Valley
Buttery aromas with oak notes and a whiff of wet stone. A well-structured Chard with defined sweetness laced by charred oak. Peach, clove and oak come together in a lengthy, satisfying close. $22
88
Sockeye, 2004 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
Obvious aromas of peach nectar and apple butter. Ripe peach and oak flavors with an edgy lick of clove. A nice mix of nectar-like sweetness and drying flintiness in the finish. $12
85
Washington Hills, 2004 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
$9
Sauvignon Blanc
87
Avery Lane, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Columbia Valley
Aromas of apple and gun powder. Briny flavors of honeydew melon and apple. Racy close. $8
87
Covey Run, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Columbia Valley
Aromas of grapefruit and straw are clean almost to the point of neutrality. Flinty citrus flavors show more depth. Dry, tooth-gripping finish. $8
88
Sockeye, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Columbia Valley
Crisp scents of pear and just-picked herbs. Tart, tangy kiwi flavors have minerally acidity. Clean close. $12
85
Covey Run, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Columbia Valley
$9
84
Snoqualmie, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Columbia Valley
$7
Cabernet & Blends
89
Avery Lane, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley
Cedary aromas of rhubarb, damp earth and tobacco. Ample oak introduces flavors of minty plum and chocolate. Sweetens up nicely in the close. $7
86
Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley
Aromas of fig, plum and resin. Soft, approachable flavors of plum and cherry. Light, sweet, easy-drinking finish is fruit filled. $16
88
Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Canoe Ridge Estate, Columbia Valley
Fresh cherry and charcoal aromas. Ripe plum and cherry flavors with a charred oak nuance that carries through to the close. $22
90
Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Cold Creek Vineyard, Columbia Valley
Scents of plum, blueberry and new oak. Supple flavors replicate the nose. Good length with tannins adding structure to the fruit-driven finish. $25
90
Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2003 Meritage
Artist Series, Columbia Valley
Uplifting aromas of cherry, coconut, mocha and clove. Racy flavors of cherry and cedar with a lick of sweet tobacco. A well-oaked close with very fine tannins laced throughout. $48
92
Hogue Cellars, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Columbia Valley
Very intense aromas of blackberry, Worcestershire sauce, coconut and cigar smoke. Quite minerally flavors of plum, earth and coffee have great balance. Closes with a fruit-strewn flourish. $30
92
Pepper Bridge, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Walla Walla Valley
Roasted aromas of plum, tar, oak char and lots of earth. Polished, though quite earthy flavors of blackberry, tobacco and ample oak. Silky finish big on black fruit. $50
88
Pine & Post, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Washington
Warm, raspy aromas of cranberry and new oak. Sweet, syrupy flavors of cassis and dust. Lingering close belies the wine's humble pricing. $6
89
Sockeye, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley
Reticent aromas of damson berry, molasses and flowers. Balanced, forcefully delivered flavors of mixed berries and cola nut. Chocolate-covered orange peel marks the finish. $12
90
Snoqualmie, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Columbia Valley
Fruit notes masked by wood, earth and tobacco aromas. Creamy, very well-integrated flavors of black fruit, pencil and soy. Velvety close brings up the wine. $23
Merlot
86
Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2003 Merlot
Columbia Valley
Fresh cherry, cedar chest and resin aromas. Youthful and tart with crisp cherry and clove flavors. Mix of cherry and mocha in the finish. $16
87
Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2003 Merlot
Indian Wells, Columbia Valley
Spicy pine scents with secondary red fruit aromas. Well-oaked black cherry flavors with a note of coffee bean. Close sweetens. $17
87
Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2003 Merlot
Cold Creek Vineyard, Columbia Valley
A bouquet of redwood and cherry. Rather dry and somewhat tart with bright cherry and mint flavors. Pungent, earthy finish. $25
87
Hogue Cellars, 2003 Merlot
Reserve, Columbia Valley
Charred oak aromas with hints of tea and citrus peel. Dry black cherry flavors with youthful, spicy tannins. A rather tart close. $30
90
Pepper Bridge, 2003 Merlot
Walla Walla Valley
Pretty aromas of cherry, rose petals and leather. Nice heft with with cherry pie, mineral and oak flavors. Toasted oak lingers in the sweet red fruit finish. $45
84
Avery Lane, 2004 Merlot
Columbia Valley
$8
85
Columbia Valley, 2002 Merlot
Columbia Valley
$16
85
Covey Run, 2003 Merlot
Columbia Valley
$9
85
Genesis, 2003 Merlot
Columbia Valley
$15
85
Washington Hills, 2004 Merlot
Columbia Valley
$9
Syrah
86
Genesis, 2002 Syrah
Columbia Valley
Fresh scents of cherry, oak and clove. Racy, tart cherry flavors with an edgy, evergreen zing. Acidic, well-oaked finish. $15
92
Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2003 Ethos Syrah
Columbia Valley
Fresh cherry and mocha aromas. Ripe black cherry and drying Baker's chocolate flavors. The close is youthful with thick tannins, lingering oak and great staying power in the fruit department. $29
87
Washington Hills, 2004 Shiraz
Columbia Valley
Fresh black cherry and plum aromas. Tasty, accessible, easy-drinking cherry and oak flavors with a lick of mint that caps the finish. $9
Canada
86
Mission Hill Family Estate, 2004 Chardonnay
S.L.C., Okanagan Valley
Pungent aromas of orange marmalade, minerals and cucumber. Angular flavors of apple and oak. A honey note softens the close. $30
86
Mission Hill Family Estate, 2003 Merlot
S.L.C., Okanagan Valley
Mineral and cherry compote aromas. Peppery and angular with spicy cherry flavors laced with oak. A compact Merlot that needs time to soften. $40
90
Mission Hill Family Estate, 2003 Syrah
S.L.C., Okanagan Valley
Mixed aromas of plum, milk chocolate and resin. Intense flavors of black cherry, graphite and cedar. Peppery, oaky finish with lasting fruit. $40
Argentina
Whites
86
Carlos Basso, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Tunuyan, Mendoza
Subtle aromas of apricot pit and yellow flowers. Soft apple flavors could use some kick. Modest finish shows some stone fruit. $10
89
Catena Alta, 2003 Chardonnay
Mendoza
Fragrant scents of ripe banana peel, vanilla and bee pollen. Intense flavors of banana and pineapple. Closes very tropical and fat. $30
88
Trumpeter, 2005 Chardonnay
Mendoza
Crisp, floral aromas of green apple and peach. Clean, refreshing flavors of apple and wood. Zingy, pristine finish continues the apple theme. $9
87
Trumpeter, 2005 Torrontés
Mendoza
Forward aromas of mandarin orange and damp straw. Tangy green apple flavors have good body. Palate-tickling close. $9
Cabernet & Blends
92
Andeluna, 2003 Pasionado
Grand Reserve, Mendoza
Ripe plum, charcoal, mint and resin-like aromas. Supple, accessible cherry and chocolate flavors laced with minerals and fine-grain tannins that lengthen and punctuate the finish. $50
90
Catena Alta, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Mendoza
Ripe plum aromas with a smoked meat influence. Tasty cherry flavors with vanilla, clove and coffee bean notes. Tannins are still in the forefront and youthful; however, there are plenty of cherry and mineral flavors to carry the close. $45
87
Catena, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Mendoza
Mixed aromas of cherry, tobacco, charcoal and mocha. Soft and sweet with accessible black fruit flavors coupled with an oaky influence that lingers in the lightly spiced finish. $20
86
Felipe Rutini, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Tupungato
Shy black cherry aromas with a pencil lead note. Rather tart and tannic with the cherry flavors struggling for attention. Well-oaked finish. Needs time to soften. $18
Other Reds
88
Durigutti, 2004 Malbec
Mendoza
Warm aromas of mulberry and cedar box. Tart flavors of just-picked strawberry and crushed rose petals. Tries to sweeten up a bit in the finish. $13
89
Famiglia Bianchi, 2004 Malbec
San Rafael, Mendoza
Pungent aromas of earth, chocolate and barnyard. Very sweet, ripe flavors of blackberry and molten chocolate. Finishes with dried tobacco spiciness. $18
88
Felipe Rutini, 2003 Merlot
Tupungato
Ripe plum, vanilla and Baker's chocolate aromas. Spicy black cherry flavors laced with youthful tannins. Lengthy close is crisp and clean. $18
Chile
Chardonnay
91
Casa Lapostolle, 2005 Cuveé Alexandre
Atalayas Vineyard, Casablanca Valley
Sweet, buttery aromas with notes of caramel, toasted oak and clove. Creamy texture with layers of butterscotch, peach and apricot flavors. Lengthy finish has a toffee-like sweetness. $20
86
Haras Estate, 2005 Chardonnay
Maipo Valley
Citrusy lemon drop aromas. Racy and acidic with fresh citrus flavors. Finish sweetened up by pineapple, banana and vanilla notes. $12
87
Marques de Casa Concha, 2004 Chardonnay
Pirque
Citrus, mineral and charred oak aromas. Peach and pear flavors with a nervy edge of fresh acidity. Closes with a lingering toasted oak nuance. $19
87
MontGras, 2005 Chardonnay
Reserva, Colchagua Valley
Pleasant scents of green apple and bee pollen. Tingly flavors of just-sliced pear and honey. Sweet finish notable for its crispness. $10
88
Viña Calina, 2004 Chardonnay
Reserva, Casablanca Valley
Citrusy aromas of pear, lemon grass and herbs. Flavors of stone fruit and butter are ripe and could not be more different from the nose. Butterscotch in the close. $9
Sauvignon Blanc
88
Casillero Del Diablo, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Central Valley
Quite pungent scents of capsicum and fresh herbs. Balanced, zingy flavors of lime and sour apple. Tart finish continues the flagrantly fresh theme. $9
87
Hacienda Araucano, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Central Valley
Lively aromas of lime peel and bell pepper. Flavors of chopped chilies, herbs and minerals are very varietal. Gravelly close. $11
88
Santa Carolina, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Reserva, Rapel Valley
Lovely floral aromas of lime juice and minerals. Soft flavors of honeydew melon and lime. Finishes with cleansing tartness. $10
85
MontGras, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Reserva, Casablanca Valley
$10
Cabernet & Blends
92
Concha y Toro, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Don Melchor, Puente Alto
Heady, uplifting aromas of plum, blueberry and new oak show a defined mintiness. Big flavors replicate the nose. Spicy, lasting finish with highlights of mint, evergreen, oak and black fruit. $47
90
Domus Aurea, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Upper Maipo Valley
New leather, eucalyptus and black earth aromas. Spicy red fruit flavors with hints of clove and mocha. The close is sweet and exotic with nutmeg, mocha, stewed cherry and tea notes. $45
90
Errazuriz, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Max Reserva, Aconcagua Valley
Cedary aromas of black currant and bell pepper. Long, deftly balanced flavors of plum and vanillin oak. Smooth close strewn with bittersweet chocolate notes. $21
89
Hacienda Araucano, 2002 Clos de Lolol
Colchagua Valley
Reserved aromas of black cherry, dust and cedar box. Bright flavors of strawberry and citrus with a touch of sweet oak. Fresh finish. $25
86
MontGras, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Antu Ninguén, Colchagua Valley
Stewed cherry aromas followed by tea and sweet tobacco notes. Earthy and crisp with acidic red fruit flavors dominating the palate. Lean, racy close. $19
88
Montes, 2004 Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon
Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley
Black cherry and charcoal aromas with a whiff of iodine. Accessible cherry fruit with combed tannins and a lick of mocha.
Black cherry and charcoal aromas with a whiff of iodine. Accessible cherry fruit with combed tannins and a lick of mocha. Friendly, enjoyable finish with a slight chalkiness tempering the sweet fruit. $23
88
Santa Carolina, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserva, Colchagua Valley
Fresh blueberry aromas with whiffs of peppermint and clove. Supple flavors of black cherry and plum. Nicely meshed finish with good length. $10
85
MontGras, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserva, Colchagua Valley
$10
85
Viña La Rosa, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
La Palma, Reserva, Cachapoal Valley
$10
Merlot
86
Alcance, 2004 Merlot
Maule Valley
Cherry and mocha aromas with a hint of earthiness. Tart black cherry flavors have an edge of mintiness. Dry finish with youthful, chalky tannins. $15
88
Casa Lapostolle, 2004 Merlot
Rapel Valley
Cedary scents of black fruit and just-brewed espresso. Inky flavors of blackberry, earth and oak char are very concentrated. Toothsome close. $12
88
Casillero Del Diablo, 2005 Merlot
Central Valley
Warm, cedary aromas of rhubarb and cured meat. Very smooth flavors of date, black earth and black pepper show good concentration. Chalky finish. $9
88
Errazuriz Estate, 2005 Merlot
Curico Valley
Subtle scents of blackberry and dusty earth. Very supple flavors of plum, minerals and espresso. Seamless close. $11
89
Marques de Casa Concha, 2004 Merlot
Peumo
Sweet, full-blown aromas of blackberry, vanilla and dried herbs. Inky flavors of blueberry, mocha and coffee bean. Herbal, earthy finish. $19
86
MontGras, 2004 Merlot
Reserva, Colchagua
Pungent, oaky ripe plum aromas. Crisp red fruit flavors with a sweet tobacco note. Well-oaked close. $10
85
Viña Calina, 2003 Merlot
Maule Valley
$9
Other Reds
88
De Martino, 2005 Carmenère
Legada Reserva, Maipo Valley
Direct, earthy aromas of plum, tar and cedar. Soft flavors of blackberry jam and mocha. Sweet close. $15
90
Errazuriz, 2003 Don Maximiano
Founder's Reserve, Aconcagua Valley
Balanced aromas of bramble, bittersweet chocolate and oak char. Velvety flavors of blackberry, sweetened coffee and graphite. Sweet, concentrated finish. $50
90
Errazuriz, 2003 Shiraz
La Cumbre, Aconcagua Valley
Deep aromas of mulberry, dust and pencil shavings. Intense, creamy flavors of red berries, coconut and loads of milk chocolate. Seamless, sweet finish. $40
90
Montes, 2004 Alpha Syrah
Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley
Ripe plum, menthol and vanilla aromas. Supple, forward flavors of plum, date and coconut. Lengthy, well-stuffed finish adding vanilla and licorice to the list of highlights. $23
89
MontGras, 2004 Carmenère
Reserva, Colchagua Valley
Gamy aromas of blackberry, asphalt and dust. Lithe, lively flavors of black fruit and vanilla. Minerals freshen the finish. $10
90
MontGras, 2004 Quatro
Reserva, Cochagua Valley
Herbaceous, cedary, well-integrated aromas of ripe blackberry and dried tobacco. Chalky flavors of mixed berries, citrus and mocha. Plush close. $15
88
2 Brothers, 2004 Big Tattoo Syrah
Colchagua
Reserved scents of plum, glove leather and grilled meat. Balanced flavors of mixed berries and citrus are framed by toothy tannins. Chocolaty finish. $9
Uruguay
Reds
86
Pisano Cisplatino, 2004 Tannat-Merlot
Pequeña Reserva, Progreso
Forward aromas of stewed plum and black cherry. Juicy cherry flavors with a distinct mineral influence. The finish is dry and peppery. $8
87
Pisano, 2002 Arretxea
Grand Reserve, Progreso
Interesting aromas of chocolate cake frosting, tar and chewing tobacco. Dry flavors of tart plum and minerals. Tobacco reappears in the close. $25
86
Pisano, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Rio de Los Pájaros, Reserve, Progreso
Smoky charred oak aromas. Tangy cherry fruit with a zing of fresh acidity. Spicy oak and aggressive tannins linger in the finish. $10
International Rosés
87
Banfi, 2005 Centine Rosé
Toscana IGT, Italy
Pink hue with a flash of copper. Fresh strawberry bouquet with a slight mineral influence. Sweet cherry and vanilla flavors with a secondary earthiness that finish on a dry, crisp note. $12
88
Calera, 2005 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir
Central Coast
Bright blood orange hue. Sweet nose with a hint of oak and red fruit. Soft palate-feel on entry with refreshing strawberry flavors. Tart on the close with continued berry and oak nuances. $14
88
Chimney Rock, 2005 Rosé of Cabernet Franc
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley
Red-orange hue. Pungent aromas of red fruit, smoked meat, forest floor and licorice are atypical if very interesting. Waxy flavors of apple and cherry have some muscle. Oak char in the close. $21
88
Clos LaChance, 2005 Rosé
Pink Throated Brilliant, Central Coast
Reddish-copper hue. Floral notes coupled with red fruit aromas. Spritzy to the eye as well as on the palate with plenty of cherry and strawberry flavors. Lively finish with a spate of fresh acidity. $14
90
Domaine de Nizas, 2005 Rosé
Coteaux du Languedoc, France
Light orange-pink hue. Pretty nose of oak and light vanilla. Bright cherry flavors on entry with a nice backing of citrus-tinged acidity. Tart and drying on the close with pear and dried berry notes. $16
89
Eberle, 2005 Syrah Rosé
Paso Robles
Pale garnet hue. Pretty nose of fruit cocktail and oak with a wisp of mint. Chewy black cherry flavors backed by oaky tannins. Tart raspberry finish. $16
87
El Coto, 2005 Rosado
Rioja, Spain
Reddish-orange hue. Nose of raspberry and rose petal. Fresh strawberry flavors display balance and weight. Backing acidity in the slightly spicy close. $12
88
Epiphany, 2005 Grenache Rosé
Santa Barbara County
Garnet hue with a pink rim. Ripe strawberry aromas with hint of smoke. Well-structured, upfront cherry and strawberry flavors. Sweet-tart, pungent finish. $14
87
Étude, 2005 Pinot Noir Rosé
Carneros
Medium salmon hue. Integrated aromas of citrus, apple and cedar. Cleansing flavors of cran-apple and menthol. Drying finish. $20
86
Falcor, 2005 Rose
California
Pale pink hue. A mix of orange peel and vanilla extract aromas. Dry cherry flavors with a good lick of fresh acidity. Tart, astringent close. $15
90
Foley & Phillips, 2005 Rosé
Santa Ynez Valley
Copper-pink hue. Sweet dried fruit aromas and just a hint of earthiness. Crisp strawberry and orange peel flavors that finish on a refreshing, dry note. $12
86
Folie à Deux, 2005 Ménage à Trois Rosé
California
Sparkling ruby hue. A refreshing bouquet of candied cherry and pink grapefruit. Medium sweet style with plenty of cherry flavors. Sugar-coated close. $10
86
Folonari, 2005 Pink Pinot Grigio
Venezie IGT, Italy
Spritzy copper hue. Strawberry and cranberry aromas. Crisp red fruit flavors with controlled, balanced sweetness. Dry, enjoyable close. $8
88
Francis Coppola, 2005 Sofia Rosé
Carneros
Candy apple red hue. Spirited scents of green apple and raspberry. Dry, balanced flavors of apple and red berry. Apple peel close. $15
87
La Scolca, 2005 Rosa Chiara
Vino da Tavola Rosato, Italy
Medium copper hue. Ripe aromas of apricot, orange and cedar. Dry, cleansing flavors of orange cream and tobacco. Citrus peel freshens the finish. $13
87
Martin & Weyrich, 2005 Matador Rosé
Tempranillo, Central Coast
Garnet hue. Pungent black cherry aromas with a wisp of rose petal. Loaded with expressive tempranillo fruit; a muscular, stylized rosé with a lick of minerality in the fruity finish. $12
88
Mastroberardino, 2005 Lacrimarosa
Campania IGT, Italy
Bright salmon hue. Fresh, floral aromas of strawberry and orange cream. Tart, cleansing flavors of red berries and cedar. Dries out in the close. $18
90
Montes, 2005 Cherub Rosé of Syrah
Colchagua, Chile
Vibrant pink hue with a ruby glint. Pungent cherry and strawberry aromas with a rose petal note. Solid core of cherry flavors show a lively, tart edge. Sweet then dry finish with plenty of heft. $17
88
Paul Jaboulet, 2005 Parallèle "45" Rosé
Côtes-du-Rhône, France
Light red hue. Floral, though bracing cherry scents. Quite tart and spicy strawberry flavors. Cinnamon sweetens the close. $11
87
Pellegrini, 2005 Rosato
Redwood Valley
Watermelon hue. Nose of juicy fruit cocktail and pear. Soft entry with cherry flavors and a hint of spice. Tart, drying close with refreshing acidity. $14
87
Ponzi Vineyards, 2005 Pinot Noir Rosato
Oregon
Light copper hue. Perfumed scents of ripe red apple and straw. Fruity sweetness shows on flavors of peach and orange peel. Thirst-quenching finish. $17
87
Premius, 2005 Bordeaux Clairet
Bordeaux Clairet, France
Candy apple red hue. Perfumed raspberry scents. Dry, tart apple and cherry flavors. Crisp close. $10
87
Red Bicyclette, 2005 Rosé
Vin De Pays d'Oc, France
Strawberry hue. Cherry juice aromas with a whiff of iodine. Tart cherry and watermelon flavors. Light, dry finish. $11
88
Rosenblum Cellars, 2005 Rosé
Appellation Series, North Coast
Ruby hue. Enticing strawberry and black cherry aromas. Tart cherry flavors display a slight pungency. Lengthy, balanced, fruit-driven finish. $18
87
Rutherford Hill, 2005 Rosé of Merlot
Napa Valley
Light brick hue. Shy floral and smoke scents. Dry, balanced strawberry flavors. Dry, crisp close. $19
90
Sanford, 2005 Pinot Noir-Vin Gris
Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara Hills
Reflective copper hue. Fresh orange zest aromas. Excellent weight and texture; flavors of orange, sliced apple and brown spice. Dry, fruity finish. $21
86
Valley of the Moon, 2005 Rosato di Sangiovese
Sonoma County
Blood orange hue. Reserved apple aromas. Sweet cherry and forest floor flavors. Sweetness tapers off in the close. $18
86
Viña La Rosa, 2006 Rosé
Cachapoal Valley, Chile
Blushing pink hue. Bright cherry and rose water aromas. Cotton candy sweet blend of mostly merlot (70 percent) makes for a pleasant summer quaff. $8
87
Vina Robles, 2005 Roseum
Paso Robles
Pale garnet hue. Strawberry aromas with a pungent earthiness. Tangy mixed red fruit flavors show a citrus peel bite in the finish. $13
85
Kenwood, 2005 Pinot Noir Rosé
Russian River Valley
$15
84
Ortman Family Vineyard, 2005 Syrah Rosé
Paso Robles
$16
85
Red Stone Winery, 2005 The Grey Rose
California
$13
Tutored Tasting
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars
The following wines were tasted by Contributing Editor Steve Pitcher with proprietor Warren Winiarski at the winery in advance of the re-enactment this past May of the 1976 "Judgment of Paris." The wines were presented in the following order in flights of three and four, and not tasted blind. Retail price on original release is noted.
74
SLWC, 1976 Cabernet Sauvignon
Stag's Leap Vineyards, Napa Valley
Released in 1979, this was the third vintage following the legendary 1973 that won the 1976 tasting. From a drought year, the nose is smoky and bacon-like with little fruit. Now austere, the wine's vague cherry-like fruit is outmatched by aggressive tannins. $10
76
SLWC, 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon
Stag's Leap Vineyards, Napa Valley
From the year that finally broke the drought, this Cab is juicy compared to the '76, offering mature aromas of cedar and cassis that show through in the flavors, accompanied by subtle red cherry fruit. $14
89
SLWC, 1984 Cabernet Sauvignon
Cask 23, Stag's Leap Vineyards, Napa Valley
A voluptuous wine on release, it offers aromas of forest floor and mushrooms with a chalky edge. On the palate, the wine is round and soft with nicely integrated tannins and a surprising streak of bright red currant fruit buoyed by refreshing acidity and accented by subtle herb and anise seed notes. $40
93
SLWC, 1985 Cabernet Sauvignon
Cask 23, Napa Valley
From an outstanding vintage, this Cask 23 offers an appealing, though low-key nose of subtle green olive and "good barnyard," cassis, dried rose and light cedar. Surprisingly rich in the mouth with medium, supple tannins and copious, sweet cassis-red cherry fruit, accented by cedary spice and minerality. $75
90
SLWC, 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon
Cask 23, Napa Valley
This Cask 23 offers intriguing aromas of loamy topsoil, "good barnyard," cassis and plum. Silky smooth with bright cassis and subtle cherry flavors. From an outstanding vintage influenced by drought and rain that reduced crop size. $65
96
SLWC, 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon
Cask 23, Napa Valley
Blended with 5% petit verdot, this lovely wine from an outstanding vintage cooler than 1990, which imparted wonderful acidity from the start, entices with Bordeaux-like aromas of forest floor and mushroom, green olive and slightly smoky oak. Complex and intriguing, with medium-full tannins and generous, deep, persistent flavors of cassis-blackberry fruit, chopped mushrooms and minerals that go on and on. $70
90
SLWC, 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon
Cask 23, Napa Valley
Blended with a miniscule amount (.08%) of petit verdot, this twelfth bottling of Cask 23 repeats the signature aromas of fresh earthiness and "good barnyard" or truffles coupled with black cherry-cassis fruit subtly accented by a minty or camphor-like note. Well stuffed and generous on the palate with medium tannins, deep cassis fruit and a mouth-feel of molten chocolate. $80
89
SLWC, 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon
S.L.V., Napa Valley
Shy nose of cassis accented by violets and white pepper become slightly chalky with airing. The flavors focus on cassis, picking up some leathery notes, along with a persistent chalky component; medium-full tannins. Blended with .4% petit verdot. $100
89
SLWC, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon
S.L.V., Napa Valley
Blended with 4% merlot, this Cabernet from a maligned vintage entices with scents of black cherry-cassis fruit, rose petals, tea leaf, sandalwood and mocha. Elegant and delicate in comparison to the preceding wines, its palate delivers raspberry-cassis fruit buoyed by cleansing acidity, and notes of green olive and exotic spice; medium-long finish. $100
93
SLWC, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon,
Cask 23, Napa Valley
Blended with 3.8% merlot and .3% petit verdot, this stunning wine returns to Cask 23's signature earthy-leathery-truffle aromatics accenting dark berry fruit and subtle herbaceousness. Powerful, almost bold in palate presence and flavor, with fine structure and medium-full tannins, this is a massively proportioned wine, delivering copious cassis-berry fruit; clearly an excellent candidate for long-term cellaring. $150
91
SLWC, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Cask 23, Napa Valley
Blended with 5.3% merlot and .9% petit verdot, there's a hint of green olive in the aromatics of this current-release Cask 23, with cassis and raspberry taking center stage, enhanced by just-emerging forest floor notes and dusty spice. Rich and velvety with medium tannins and generous flavors of cassis-blackberry fruit, mineral tones and sweet oak that lead into an extended close that exhibits hints of dried herbs. $150
West Coast Case
Contributing Editor Steve Pitcher culled the following selection "the cream of the crop" from Pinots tasted at the 9th annual Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival in May. The wines were not tasted blind.
90
Black Kite, 2003 Pinot Noir
Estate, Anderson Valley
Named for the raptor, this new winery with a vineyard in the cool Deep End of the valley has produced an elegant Pinot, with upfront aromas of freshly crushed strawberry, a hint of blueberry and a mellow nutmeg spice component. Silky smooth with medium tannins, the wine's similar flavors are finely etched and delicate. $35/256 cases
92
Breggo, 2004 Pinot Noir
Anderson Valley
Generously aromatic nose of wild strawberry dusted with white pepper. Super smooth with a wonderful mouth-feel, delivering copious strawberry-raspberry fruit, this is a juicy Pinot with balancing acidity and fine depth. $30/76 cases
94
Copain, 2004 Pinot Noir En Bas
Kiser Vineyard, Anderson Valley
From one of the chilliest microclimates in Anderson Valley's Deep End, this impressive Pinot offers come-hither aromas of clove-cinnamon spice accenting deep cherry-black raspberry fruit. Bright with smooth, supple tannins and complex flavors that replicate the nose. A good backbone of acid provides structure. A joy to drink. $50/150 cases
94
Goldeneye, 2004 Pinot Noir
Narrows Vineyard, Anderson Valley
An exclusive look at Goldeneye's first vineyard-designated Pinot reveals a massively proportioned wine maybe still a year away from release. Assertive, slightly meaty aromas of ripe wild strawberry enhanced by vanillin oak. Velvety smooth and rich, but showing enormous tannins, the wine boasts profound strawberry-blackberry-blueberry fruit sufficient to match them for proper aging. Tasted separately at the winery. $70/200 cases
94
Ici/La Bas, 2002 Les Révélés Pinot Noir
Elke Vineyard, Anderson Valley
Very fragrant aromas of dried mushrooms accenting freshly crushed wild strawberry, violets and subtle vanilla custard. Round and generous with layered flavors that replicate the nose and an abundance of lively acidity; a strikingly delicious wine. $39/limited production
92
Lazy Creek, 2004 Pinot Noir
Estate, Anderson Valley
Forward, very fragrant and clean nose of boysenberry and wild strawberry. Elegant, yet persistent, this classy Pinot verges on viscous, delivering bright flavors of cherry-strawberry fruit and an extended close. $40/640 cases
94
Londer, 2004 Paraboll Pinot Noir
Anderson Valley
Brooding nose of dried sour cherry, blackberry liqueur and allspice. Bold, luscious, complex and loaded with spicy blackberry-strawberry-boysenberry fruit, buoyed by lively acidity, this is a complex and exciting wine to drink now, but deserves at least a few months of bottle aging to allow the aromas to expand. $52/430 cases
95
MacPhail, 2004 Pinot Noir
Frattey Shams Vineyard, Anderson Valley
The vineyard's name is Boontling for grapevines. The burst of fruity aromatics offering freshly picked strawberries and sour cherries somewhat prepares the palate for the cascade of perfectly ripe, strawberry-like fruit that's rich and persistent, framed in cleansing acidity and enrobed in a velvety texture. Not a blockbuster, but rather a commanding presence on the palate that demands another sip. $49/46 cases
95
MacPhail, 2004 Pinot Noir
Toulouse Vineyard, Anderson Valley
If you can't get any of the tiny-production Frattey Shams Pinot, search for this charmer from one of the valley's premier vineyards. Hints of smoke and allspice enhance ripe blackberry-black cherry fruit in the nose. On the palate, the wine is almost meaty, brimming with luscious black fruit laced with white pepper, and finishing long and slightly smoky. Intriguing, different and distinctive, this is a serious, profound Pinot meant to age at least 5 to 8 years. $37/471 cases
92
Skewis, 2003 Pinot Noir
Floodgate Vineyard, Anderson Valley
Fresh, fragrant, appealing aromas of crushed and juicy wild strawberries accented by subtle black licorice, candied ginger and toasted almonds. Silky smooth and elegant with medium tannins and copious strawberry-cassis fruit, a touch of dried herbs and a subtle leather note that carries into the finish, this is a persistent and nuanced Pinot that is a joy to contemplate as well as to drink. Succeeding vintages from this source will be called "Reserve." $45/150 cases
91
Toulouse, 2003 Pinot Noir
Estate, Anderson Valley
Pretty scents of violets, sour cherries and minerals. Rich and luscious on the palate with ripe, supple tannins and copious red fruit; deeply flavored with a lovely texture. $32/1,600 cases
94
Toulouse, 2003 Pinot Noir
Estate Reserve, Anderson Valley
Astoundingly fragrant nose of vanilla custard, crème brûlée, sour cherry and lightly toasty oak. Complex and expansive on the palate with deep, persistent flavors that echo the nose amid a texture that is almost as viscous as liqueur
ultrasmooth, with supple tannins, finishing long with a sour cherry flourish. $42/300 cases
About the BuyLine Panel: More than 100 wines are reviewed in every issue of Wine News. All wines are tasted double-blind and each entry is evaluated and scored based upon individual merit. Wines that score above 70 points are recommended in the BuyLine. Tasting and interpreting wine is a purely subjective exercise; all scores and accompanying tasting notes represent the collective opinions of our panel.
Wine Samples: Send samples for review with retail price affixed to:
Wine News BuyLine Tasting Panel
1501 Venera Avenue, Suite 320
Coral Gables, FL 33146
Telephone: 305.740.7170
The Panel:
Lyn Farmer, senior staff columnist; Abraham Horowitz, BuyLine panelist; Tom E. Smith, publisher; John Stroker, BuyLine panelist; Fred Tasker, Miami Herald wine critic; Todd M. Wernstrom, executive editor.
Scoring: Tasting notes reflect the panel's collective impressions; scores are averaged and represent the panel's mean. Wines possessing certain criteria will be singled out for special recognition:
Taster's Choice: Wines which display outstanding quality, character and potential.
Best Value Wines of exceptional quality which sell at a moderate price.
96-100: Superb
90-95: Outstanding
85-89: Very Good
80-84: Good
70-79: Acceptable
0-69: Not Listed
Stemware: Riedel Ouverture tasting glasses.
Pricing: Prices vary from state to state. Retail prices listed are approximate.
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