Wine Reviews from The Wine News
tasters' choice selections
100 Krug, 1990 Brut
Reims
Deep, burnished gold hue with streams of tiny bubbles and a full mousse. Aromas of apple, red berry, pecan, honey, butterscotch and Sherry are astounding in their complexity and focus. A layered mouthful of flavors includes baked apple, lemon, butter, malt, honey, charred oak and Sherry with a sense of depth not often - if ever - encountered in any wine. Long, buttery, very Krug-like close. 5,000 cases / $205
98 Krug, Brut Multi-Vintage
Grande Cuvée, Reims
Deep gold hue with persistent tiny bubbles and a frothy mousse. Layered aromas of baked apple, lemon, gingerbread, beer barrel and a hint of vanilla have laser-like clarity. Even more pronounced in the mouth with flavors of beery citrus, bacon fat, Sherry and baking spices. Huge finish shows apricot, butter and malt. $157
97 Bollinger, 1996 Brut Grande Année Rosé
Aÿ
Copper-orange hue with copious fine bubbles and a full mousse. Rich, concentrated aromas of orange peel, cherry compote, beer malt, toasted grains and a note of Sherry. Big, meaty, layered flavors of citrus, grilled orange, buttered nuts, flint and nutmeg. Impeccable balance and weight comes through in the lingering close. $166
best value selections
90 Gloria Ferrer, NV Blanc de Noirs
Sonoma County
Bright copper hue. Attractive bouquet of sliced apple, honey and citrus scents. Full, rich flavors of apple, banana and pecan. Lasting fruit impressions with a lick of butternut and honey in the finish. 25,000 cases / $18
89 Scharffenberger, NV Brut
Mendocino County
Pale gold hue with ribbons of small bubbles. Rich aromas of apple, ginger, bread dough and a subtle whiff of oxidation. Beery flavors of green apple, banana and roasted grains. Dry close. $15
88 Vicomte de Castellane, NV Brut
Croix Rouge, Épernay
Light straw yellow hue. Malty aromas of lemon peel, apple and a balancing minerality. Big flavors of red fruit, pineapple and hay. Clean, citrusy finish. $20
California
Brut NV & Vintage
88 Domaine Carneros, 2001 Brut
Carneros
Pale straw hue with a frothy mousse. Toasty aromas of lemon, pear, butter and mineral. Flavors of sweet citrus, honey and a tobacco note have a foamy texture. Drying lemon in the crisp close. $25
84 Domaine Chandon, 1996 Vintage Brut
Sonoma/Napa County
Light yellow hue. Shy scents of lemon curd and ginger ale. Shrill acidity frames flavors of tart lemon, lime and some red fruit notes. Dry close. $50
85 Domaine Chandon, NV Brut Classic
California
White gold hue with a green tint. Fragrant scents of cherry and lemon. Balanced flavors of juicy apple, melon and honey. A briny note in the finish. $17
88 Domaine Chandon, NV Brut Reserve
Napa/Sonoma County
Medium straw hue. Aged aromas of red berry, apple and butterscotch. Zesty flavors of red apple and pineapple. Toastiness heightens the close. $24
88 Gloria Ferrer, 1996 Brut Royal Cuvée
Carneros
Light yellow hue with a medium mousse. Pungent, earthy aromas of apple cider and candied citrus peel. Flavors of lemon, minerals and flint. Lemony close. $24
85 Gloria Ferrer, NV Brut
Sonoma
Pale straw hue. Aromas of lemon, honey and mixed grains. Steely flavors of green apple, ginger ale and a beer note. Close marked by a pilsner nuance. $18
89 Iron Horse, 1999 Classic Vintage Brut
Sonoma County, Green Valley
Bright yellow hue with active bubbles. Creamy aromas of baked apple, citrus rind, brioche and honey. Toasty flavors of apple, lemon, cedar and a sweet note. Flinty, minerally finish. $28
86 Iron Horse, 1999 Russian Cuvée
Sonoma County, Green Valley
Yellow-gold hue. Flavors of orange marmalade, vanilla and grass. Weighty flavors of baked apple, grapefruit and honey. Candied fruit in the close. $28
85 Iron Horse, 2000 Wedding Cuvée
Sonoma County, Green Valley
Pale copper hue. Pungent aromas of red berry, honey and nutmeg. Flavors of tart fruit, citrus and herbs. Dry, earthy finish. $29
85 Korbel, NV Brut
California
Bright yellow hue. Interesting aromas of pear and mulling spices. Fresh, fruity flavors of pineapple, apple and a Sherry note. Tart finish. $11 Korbel, NV Chardonnay Champagne 87 California Pale yellow hue with active tiny bubbles. Zesty aromas of apple blossom, straw and pilsner beer. Balanced flavors of lemon candy, beer and a honey note. Easy, pleasant close. $11
88 Piper Sonoma, NV Brut
Select Cuvée, Sonoma County
Pale gold hue with a foamy mousse and streams of very fine bubbles. Aromas of pear, lemon-lime, hay and biscuit. Juicy flavors of red apple and pink grapefruit sport a subtle sweetness. Mouth-watering finish shows just-sliced pear. $20
90 Roederer Estate, NV Brut
Anderson Valley
Pale straw hue with a frothy mousse. Toasty aromas of grapefruit, apricot, biscuit and white bread. Crisp flavors of citrus, apple, hay and a Sherry nuance. Lengthy close features tart lemon drop. $22
Blanc de Blancs
NV & Vintage
87 Gloria Ferrer, 2001 Blanc de Blancs
Carneros
Pale gold hue with active small bubbles. Aromas of ripe apple, white flowers and brioche. Lively acidity frames ample flavors of apple jam, lemon and caramel. Sharp close. $24
87 Iron Horse, 1995 Blanc de Blancs
Sonoma County, Green Valley
Shiny gold hue with persistent little bubbles. Mature aromas of baked apple, buttered toast and flint. Yeasty flavors of apple cider, lemon rind and flint. Citrusy finish moderated by a butterscotch note. $34
90 Schramsberg, 2000 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Napa/Sonoma/Mendocino/Monterey/Marin
Pale gold hue with vigorous activity and a full mousse. Doughy, buttery aromas of lemon curd, apple, malt, Sherry and an oxidized nuance. Champagne-like flavors of lemon, green apple, pecan and honey. Soft, lingering finish has great depth of fruit. $32
Blanc de Noirs
NV & Vintage
86 Domaine Chandon, NV Blanc de Noirs
California
Pale copper hue. Shy, earthy aromas of apple and wet stone. Tart red apple and mineral flavors with a crisp, youthful finish that ends on a sweet note. $17
87 Domaine Chandon, NV Blanc de Noirs
Reserve, Napa/Sonoma County
Burnished gold hue with tiny bubbles. Stewed apple and maple syrup scents. Sweet apple, apricot and honey flavors. Light, dry, spritzy close. $24
86 Korbel, NV Blanc de Noirs
California
Pale copper hue. Orange peel and nutmeg aromas. Candied apple flavors with a slight astringency that balances the sweetness. Clean, sweet finish. $11
87 Piper Sonoma, NV Blanc de Noirs
Sonoma County
Pale yellow hue with tiny bubbles. Mineral scents with notes of chalk and vanilla. Crisp peach and apple flavors coupled with a nutty, yeasty close. $14
92 Schramsberg, 2000 Brut Blanc de Noirs
Napa/Mendocino/Sonoma
Pale straw hue. Fresh, yeasty bouquet with notes of chalk and vanilla. Spritzy red apple flavors mixed with brown spices and a hint of autolysis. Steely, crisp finish has a lingering toasted nuance. $32
Rosé
Vintage & Prestige
87 Domaine Chandon, NV étoile Rosé
Napa/Sonoma County
Medium salmon hue with moderately active small bubbles. Flavors of berry fruit, forest floor, tobacco and coffee scream Pinot Noir. Tangy flavors of orange peel, cherry and nutmeg. Sweet close. $40
88 Gloria Ferrer, NV Brut Rosé
Sonoma County
Pale salmon hue with a frothy mousse. Nicely integrated aromas of red berry, cherry and some aged malty notes. A nice mouthful of cherry, cedar and nut flavors. Snappy close. $35
83 Iron Horse, 1998 Brut Rosé
Sonoma County, Green Valley
Blood orange hue. Herbal aromas of rhubarb, peppermint and allspice. Brown spice frames flavors of apple and coffee. Dry, earthy finish. $30
86 Korbel, NV Brut Rosé
California
Pale pink hue. Aromas of rhubarb, citrus rind and cedar. Sweet-tart flavors of cherry, orange juice and apple. A dusty cedar note in the otherwise fruity finish. $11
91 Roederer Estate, NV Brut Rosé
Anderson Valley
Light gold hue with an orange tint. Toasty aromas of baked apple, red berry, honey and an oxidized note smell "French." Beautifully lean flavors of cherry, orange peel and smoke. Long, racy close. $27
90 Roederer Estate, 1999 Brut L'Ermitage Rosé
Anderson Valley
Light pumpkin hue with swirls of pinpoint bubbles. Smoky aromas of grapefruit, yeast and mixed nuts. Cleansing, nicely austere flavors of orange peel, tangerine and chalk with a hint of uplifting vanilla. Brisk finish. $65 Prestige Cuvée
91 Domaine Carneros, 1998 Brut Le Rêve
Carneros
Light gold hue with ribbons of pinpoint bubbles. A serious whiff of oxidation frames toasty flavors of lemon and pear. Bright acidity freshens weighty flavors of lemon curd, green apple and biscuit. Creamy finish. $55
88 Domaine Chandon, NV Brut étoile
Napa/Sonoma County
Bright gold hue with copious small bubbles. Beery aromas of citrus, chalk and a honey note. Balanced, weighty flavors of apple, straw and minerals. Close is quite dry. $35
91 Gloria Ferrer, 1995 Brut Carneros Cuvée
Late Disgorged, Carneros
Pale gold hue with lines of fine bubbles and an ample mousse. Subtle scents of baked apple, yeast and hay. Ripe, balanced flavors of melon, grapefruit, beer and chalk. Red berry in the finish. $50
91 Iron Horse, 1996 Brut LD
Sonoma County, Green Valley
Medium gold hue with tiny bubbles. Integrated, mature aromas of red apple, honey and an oxidized nuance. Tingly acidity keeps flavors of baked apple, beer and flint lively. Nicely dry close. $50
87 Mumm Napa, NV Brut Reserve
25th Anniversary, Napa Valley
Straw gold hue with ribbons of small bubbles. Sweet scents of pear and bread dough. Flavors of tart apple and toast. Tangy finish. $25
86 Mumm Cuvée Napa, 1998 DVX
Napa Valley
Light straw hue. Pungent aromas of macerated apple, toasted brioche and a sweet note. Tart flavors of pear, honeydew melon and minerals. Tingly acidity in the close. $45
90 Roederer Estate, 1998 Brut L'Ermitage
Anderson Valley
Light gold hue with lines of pinpoint bubbles and an ample mousse. Very perfumed scents of apple blossom and an exotic ylang-ylang nuance. Rich flavors of citrus peel, beer, straw, toast and a gunpowder note. Crisp, beery finish. $45
86 Roederer Estate, 1999 Brut L'Ermitage
Anderson Valley
Light yellow hue. Earthy aromas of apple, bread dough and straw. Crisp, juicy flavors of green apple and minerals. Cleansing close. $45
91 Schramsberg, 1998 J. Schram
Napa/Mendocino/Monterey/Marin
Medium gold hue with pinpoint bubbles and a foamy mousse. Pronounced aromas of baked apple, caramel and honey. Flinty flavors of apple cider, honey, butter and an elegant oxidized note. Beeswax marks the finish. $80 France Brut NV & Vintage
90 Besserat de Bellefon, NV Brut
Cuvée des Moines, Épernay
Pale yellow hue with an ample mousse and copious tiny bubbles. Warm, flinty aromas of pear, lemon, toasted oates and a bacon fat note. Chalky, tart flavors of lemon peel, peach, malt and a smoke note. Tangy, vanilla-infused close. $35
91 Billecart-Salmon, NV Brut
Réserve, Aÿ
Yellow-gold hue with pinpoint bubbles. Toasty, spicy aromas of cooked apple, pecan, sautéed butter and a floral nuance. Balanced, buttery flavors of citrus, pineapple, cedar and bread dough. Long, dry finish shows honey. $30
92 Bollinger, NV Brut Special Cuvée
Aÿ
Burnished gold hue with streams of small bubbles. Floral aromas of rose petal, citrus and honey. Malty, stylized flavors of apple cider, toasted grains, spice and a Sherry nuance. Nutty close with citrus accents. $50
95 Bollinger, 1996 Brut Grande Année
Aÿ
Medium yellow hue with a creamy mousse and active bead. Intriguing, highly stylized aromas of baked apple, pecan, butterscotch, mixed grains and sautéed butter. Hefty, layered flavors of grilled pineapple, white grapefruit, oak char and a pronounced oxidized component. The long finish is freshened by lots of citrus. $110
93 Charles Heidsieck, 1985 Brut
Champagne Charlie, Reims
Deep yellow hue with modest activity. Appropriately aged aromas of baked apple, toasted grains, caramel and an oxidized nuance. Rich, still-wine flavors of lemon curd, lime rind, flint and malt. Ample fruit in the long, flinty finish. $125
92 Charles Heidsieck, 1995 Brut
Reims
Deep gold hue with ribbons of tiny bubbles. An oxidized note introduces aromas of pear, cookie dough, flint and straw. Sweetly austere flavors of apple, flint, beer and caramel. Snappy close. $70
93 Charles Heidsieck, NV Brut Royal Réserve
Reims
Yellow-gold hue with active small bubbles. Fragrant aromas of baked apple, vanilla, cider and nutmeg. Tangy, buttery, quite ripe flavors of grilled pineapple, pecan pie and a bacon fat note. Lingering finish highlighted by buttered stone fruit. $35
88 Charles Lafitte, NV E.O. Brut
Tours-sur-Marne
Clear gold hue. Minerally aromas of lemon cookie, honey and flint. Fresh flavors of pear, brioche and nutmeg. A ginger ale crispness in the finish. $33
90 De Meric, 1993 Brut
Aÿ
Deep yellow hue with ample pinpoint bubbles and a full mousse. Aged aromas of browned apple, apricot, mocha and an oxidized note. Flinty flavors of lemon curd, drawn butter and vanilla custard. Tart apricot marks the chalky close. $60
87 De Meric, NV Brut Sous Bois
Premier Cru Grande Réserve, Aÿ
Metallic gold hue. Sweet aromas of apple cider, stone fruit, bread dough and pecan. Creamy flavors of apricot, apple and brown spice. Honeyed finish. $34
88 Delamotte, NV Brut
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Medium gold hue. Pungent aromas of apple, straw and caramel. Mature flavors of apple and beer with pleasingly soft acidity. Toasty grains in the close. $43
91 Delbeck, 1999 Brut
Reims
Pale gold hue with the barest copper tint and lines of tiny bubbles. Pretty floral aromas of peach, sandalwood and bread dough. Rich, balanced flavors of lemon curd, apricot, beer and brioche are nicely sweet. Dry, citrusy finish. $60
92 Deutz, NV Brut Classic
Aÿ
Pale yellow hue with ribbons of small bubbles. Luxurious aromas of lemon curd, baked apple, bread dough and beer barrel. Flavors of lemon-lime, biscuit, malt and wood spice. Lengthy close framed by yeast and beer notes. $45
91 Deutz, 1996 Brut
Aÿ
Pale straw hue with vigorous small bubbles. Complex scents of apple cider, lemon, cookie dough and biscuit with a floral nuance. Big, fruity flavors of apple, lime, pineapple, chalk and flint. Pleasing combination of fruit and minerals in the finish. $60
88 Duval-Leroy, NV Brut Paris Label
Vertus
Very pale gold hue. Buttery aromas of lemon, Golden Delicious apple and yeast. Foamy texture with flavors of lemon, brioche and flint. Green apple note in the close. $32
89 Duval-Leroy, NV Brut
Vertus
Bright gold hue. Nicely aged scents of baked apple, pecan, crème brûlée and flint. Soft acidity cushions rich flavors of lemon curd, pineapple and vanilla. Rich, frothy finish. $28
89 Duval-Leroy, 1996 Brut
Vertus
Copper-gold hue. Pungent combination of apple, lemon, smoke and butter aromas. Lemony fresh flavors of orange and baking spices with lots of cleansing acidity. Bone-dry close. $42
87 Heidsieck & Co. Monopole, NV Brut Blue Top
Premier Cru, Épernay
Light yellow-gold hue. Flinty aromas of apple cider and yeast. Fresh, toasty flavors of pineapple, citrus and chalk. A touch of lemon in the finish. $40
88 Henri Abelé, NV Brut
Reims
Bright gold hue. Subtle combination of ripe apple, lemon, honey and beer aromas. Nicely austere flavors of green apple, wet stone and caramel. Dry, lingering close. $28
91 Henri Abelé, 1996 Brut Réserve
Reims
Medium gold hue with very active small bubbles. Biscuity aromas of apple cider, yeast and caramel show a Fino Sherry freshness. Continued apple in the mouth with additional flavors of citrus, tobacco and pecan. Spicy, steely finish. $55
91 Lanson, NV Brut Black Label
Reims
Yellow-gold hue with a foamy mousse and ribbons of pinpoint bubbles. Toasty, charred aromas of ripe apple, mango, pecan and a toffee note. Well-balanced, oily flavors of white grapefruit, pineapple and toasted grains. Supple finish. $32
92 Lanson, 1996 Brut Gold Label
Reims
Medium yellow hue with a modest bead. Lovely aromas of apple cider, pineapple, drawn butter and flint. Balanced, layered, yeasty flavors of lemon drop, apple, chalk and lots of flint. Orange and lemon in the dry close. $55
87 Laurent-Perrier, NV Brut L-P
Tours-sur-Marne
Light yellow hue. Toasty aromas of mixed grains and flint with the fruit in the background. Creamy flavors of green apple, citrus and an interesting touch of sherry vinegar. Orange peel in the fresh finish. $30
91 Laurent-Perrier, 1996 Brut Millésime
Tours-sur-Marne
Shimmering gold hue with ribbons of tiny bubbles. Mature aromas of citrus, smoke, Sherry and an oxidized note. Beautifully balanced flavors of lemon curd, apricot, chalk, straw and flint. More flint in the toasty close. $40
90 Louis Roederer, NV Brut Premier
Reims
Butter yellow hue with lines of fine bubbles. Pungent, biscuity aromas of apple, lemon zest, toffee and toasted grains. Puckering acidity frames flavors of very tart lemon, yeast and biscuit. Rich close highlighted by grilled pineapple. $45
93 Louis Roederer, 1996 Brut
Reims
Medium gold hue with active bubbles and a full mousse. Striking scents of baked apple, apricot, butter, anise and dough show a slightly oxidized character. Lots of mixed grain flavors with additional components of Golden Delicious apple, citrus, beer and yeast. Pear and flint in the long finish. $63
91 Moët & Chandon, 1998 Millésime Blanc
Épernay
Pale straw hue with persistent lines of pinpoint bubbles. Big, flinty aromas of lemon drop, pear, biscuit and vanilla. Crisp, lemony flavors of green apple and minerals with complex notes of malt and yeast. Lots of citrus in the close. $55
91 Mumm, NV Brut Cordon Rouge
Reims
Burnished gold hue with moderately active bubbles. Rich aromas of baked apple, butter, brioche and Sherry wood. Fresh, modestly sweet flavors of apple, peach, pecan and a flinty nuance. Finish deftly combines fruit and an aged note. $41
90 Nicolas Feuillatte, 1995 Brut
Premier Cru, Épernay
Gold hue with active pinpoint bubbles. Sweet aromas of red fruit, honey and caramel flan. Beery flavors of baked apple, citrus and minerals. Zingy close marked by a stewed apple note. $27
87 Nicolas Feuillatte, NV Brut
Premier Cru, Épernay
Medium straw hue. Sweet aromas of lemon, pecan and a toasty coffee bean note. Pleasant flavors of apple and butter. Sweet finish features apple. $27
86 Perrier Jouët, NV Grand Brut
Épernay
Medium yellow hue. Scents of ripe apple, flint and chalk. Sweet and foamy with peach nectar and apple flavors. Butterscotch heightens the close. $46
91 Philipponnat, NV Brut Royal Réserve
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Medium gold hue with small bubbles. Perfumed scents of apple, lemon curd, brioche and yeast. Ample acidity freshens hefty flavors of red apple, peach nectar and biscuit. Lemon-soaked finish. $39
92 Piper-Heidsieck, 1998 Brut
Reims
Pale yellow hue with small bubbles and a full mousse. Yeasty aromas of baked apple, melon, pencil and brioche. Steely flavors of apple, citrus, chalk and straw. Nicely austere close. $45
89 Piper-Heidsieck, NV Brut
Reims
Medium yellow hue. Intense aromas of lemon, flint and toast. Tingly acidity frames flavors of lemon, apple and an aged note. Flinty finish. $30
91 Pol Roger, NV Brut
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
Medium gold hue with a foamy mousse and ribbons of impossibly fine bubbles. Buttery, toasty aromas of lemon curd, apple, malt and freshly baked bread. Rich, ripe flavors of apple, grapefruit, flint and vanilla cream. Gingersnap cookie in the close. $35
92 Pol Roger, 1996 Brut
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
Deep gold hue with a frothy mousse. Floral aromas of green apple, flint, nutmeg and butter. Flavors of lemon, peach, butter and beer have terrific balance. Lively finish highlighted by beer and flint. $67
87 Pommery, NV Brut Royal
Reims
Pale straw hue. Integrated scents of green apple, buttered nuts and flint. Light-bodied flavors of tart apple and straw. Fresh, minty close. $34
90 Pommery, NV Brut Apanage
Reims
Bright gold hue with plenty of fine bubbles. Squeaky clean aromas of buttered apple, toasted grains and chalk. Flavors of lemon and pear are quite beery and well balanced. Tangy, youthful finish. $42
92 Ruinart, NV Brut "R"
Reims
Matte gold hue with ribbons of tiny bubbles. Delicate aromas of apple, apricot, honey and mixed grains. Beautifully balanced flavors of ripe lemon, ginger ale, drawn butter and an oxidized note. Sweet, lingering finish. $50
92 Taittinger, 1998 Brut
Reims
Pale yellow hue with a very active bead. Pretty scents of apple, honey, yeast and a charred nuance. Yeasty flavors of apple, red berry, chalk and oak char. Tongue-stinging close shows lots of fruit. $70
89 Taittinger, NV Brut La Française
Reims
Burnished gold hue. A mature nuance runs through aromas of apple, buttered nuts, Sherry and honey. Beery, complex flavors of banana, apricot, tobacco and a lightening vanilla cookie note. Aged, minerally finish. $35
90 Taittinger, NV Brut Prélude
Grand Cru, Reims
Pale gold hue with moderately active small bubbles. A subtle oxidized note leads to buttery aromas of lemon, yeast and vanilla custard. Bright citrus flavors with balancing notes of baked apple, butter and flint. A smoky nuance lifts the close. $70
90 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, NV Brut
Reims
Pale yellow hue with tiny bubbles. Earthy, nutty aromas of apple cider, lemon drop, brioche, clove and coffee bean. Fresh, toasty flavors of lemon curd and a dose of minerals for balance. Flinty close. $50
91 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, 1998 Brut
Vintage Réserve, Reims
Very light gold hue with ribbons of medium bubbles. Toasty aromas of lemon, strawberry, flint and minerals. Flavors of baked apple, grapefruit, red fruit, chalk and a hint of vanilla are still quite youthful. An apple note in the very crisp finish. $75
91 Vilmart, 1996 Brut Cuvée Creation
Premier Cru, Rilly
Pale yellow hue with pinpoint bubbles. Fragrant scents of apple blossom, peach, honey and yeast. Balanced, juicy flavors of lemon, apricot and a hint of oxidation. Tasty apple tart note in the finish. $99
Blanc de Blancs
NV, Vintage & Prestige
91 Besserat de Bellefon, Brut Blanc de Blancs
Cuvée des Moines, Épernay
Yellow gold hue with active small bubbles. Harmonious aromas of lemon candy, apricot, mixed grains, chalk and a honey note. Flavors of lime, green apple, minerals and grains have great mouth-feel and balance. Lingering finish is toasty and fresh. $60
93 Charles Heidsieck, 1995 Brut
Blanc des Millénaires, Reims
Pale gold hue with driving tiny bubbles. Ripe aromas of lemon curd, citrus, brioche, beer and grains. Focused flavors of apple, peach, honeycomb and white toast. Rich, malty, honeyed finish. $90
92 De Meric, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Sous Bois, Aÿ
Luminous gold hue with ribbons of tiny bubbles and a frothy mousse. Floral, well-integrated aromas of ripe pear, lemon, maple, pecan and a beer note. Steely flavors of apple, citrus, hay and flint show plenty of nuance. Long, vibrant close. $40
93 Dom Ruinart, 1993 Brut
Reims
Light white gold hue with pinpoint bubbles and a full mousse. Charred aromas of apple cider, citrus, chalk and yeast. Tartly youthful flavors of lime, green apple, straw, smoke and beer. Dry finish shows a wood nuance. $142
91 Duval-Leroy, 1998 Blanc de Chardonnay
Vertus
Bright gold hue with lots of tiny bubbles. Vibrant aromas of apple, lemon, nutty caramel and butter. Great balance allows flavors of ripe apple, pineapple, grains, beer and honey to shine. Tangy close. $38
97 Krug, 1990 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Clos du Mesnil, Reims
Burnished gold hue with fine bubbles and a full mousse. Toasty, mature aromas of apple, orange, crème brûlée and malt evoke aged white Burgundy. Remarkably complex flavors of grilled pineapple, apple cider, sautéed butter, Sherry and an oxidized note. Lingering finish marked by beer and ginger. $490
92 L. Aubry Fils, 1996 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Jouy-lès-Reims
Pale yellow hue with pinpoint bubbles. Ripe scents of pear, banana peel, toast and caramel. An oxidized note leads to beery flavors of apple, buttered grains, yeast and Sherry. Long, soft close. $74
94 Lanson, 1996 Blanc de Blancs Noble Cuvée
Reims
Bright yellow-gold hue with driving bubbles. A whiff of Sherry marks ample aromas of ripe lemon, sandalwood, slate, butter and pecan. Racy flavors of apple, straw, flint and beer are very representative of the vintage. Squeaky clean finish is still tight. $130
93 Louis Roederer, 1997 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Reims
Pale gold hue with very active small bubbles. Toasty aromas of apple, peach, gravel and mixed grains show commendable restraint. Classic blanc de blancs flavors of lemon, chalk, flint and a malty nuance. Fruit-soaked close is very lively. $63
89 Mumm de Cramant, NV Brut Chardonnay
Grand Cru, Reims
Pale yellow hue. Malty, yeasty aromas of lemon, nuts, flint and honey. Dry, flinty flavors of citrus and minerals. Tangy close accented by a stone note. $65
90 Nicolas Feuillatte, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Premier Cru, Chouilly-Épernay
White gold hue with active tiny bubbles. Creamy aromas of lemon blossom, bread dough, chalk and yeast. Steely flavors of lemon drop, wet stone, chalk and a nutty nuance. Pleasantly dry finish. $40
91 Perrier Jouët, 1999 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Fleur de Champagne, Épernay
Pale gold hue with a frothy mousse. Luscious aromas of banana peel and pastry cream balanced by notes of yeast and chalk. Sweet-tart flavors of peach, vanilla, wet stone and flint. Youthful finish with lots of mineral highlights. $220 (tasted twice)
92 Philipponnat, NV Brut Grand Blanc
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Medium yellow hue with copious tiny bubbles. Creamy, complex aromas of red apple, citrus peel, mixed nuts, yeast and honey. Zesty flavors of tart citrus, malt and chalk are softened a bit by a bread dough note. Crisp, clean close shows lime peel. $65
92 Pierre Gimonnet, 1996 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Premier Cru, Cuis
Bright gold hue with ribbons of tiny bubbles and a frothy mousse. Rich scents of baked apple, bread dough, vanilla and a yeasty note. Clean, crisp flavors of red apple, white toast and the barest hint of oxidation. Tart, chalky, youthful finish. $52
92 Pol Roger, 1996 Brut Chardonnay
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
Pale gold hue with lines of fine bubbles. Mature, yeasty aromas of pear, lemon, chalk and a hint of honey. Razor-sharp flavors of apple, lemon candy, honey and flint. Lemon-lime notes in the close. $84
95 S Salon, 1995 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Medium gold hue with lines of pinpoint bubbles and a foamy mousse. Toasty, deceptively low-key aromas of lemon curd, buttered grains and bread dough with a vanilla note. Soft, fresh flavors of lemon, kiwi, caramel and sautéed butter. A chalk note freshens an otherwise beery finish. $210
94 Taittinger, 1995 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Comtes de Champagne, Reims
Light gold hue with ribbons of tiny bubbles and a full mousse. Beautifully integrated aromas of buttered citrus, yeast, toast and charred oak. Flavors of grilled pineapple, apple, Sherry and malt are quite beery and have seamless balance. Long close shows citrus peel and pilsner beer notes. $140
Prestige NV & Vintage
96 Bollinger, 1990 Extra Brut R.D.
Aÿ
Deep gold hue with streams of pinpoint bubbles and an ample mousse. Very malty aromas of baked apple, red fruit, butter, charred oak and an uplifting pastry cream note. Richly mature flavors of stone fruit, apple, pecan, beer and an oxidized nuance. Butter and beer barrel in the supple finish. $245
93 Chartogne-Taillet, 1996 Brut Fiacre
Tête de Cuvée, Merfy
Pale gold hue with numerous small bubbles. Upfront aromas of baked apple, brioche, mixed nuts and butter. Luscious flavors of lemon curd, peach, fresh bread dough and a drying Key lime note. Citrus peel and brioche in the lengthy finish. $61
95 Lanson, 1989 Brut Noble Cuvée
Reims
Deep gold hue with lines of small bubbles and a full mousse. Nutty aromas of baked apple, buttered bread, beer and vanilla are rich but subtle. Great balance and hearty acidity frame flavors of apple, cookie dough, butter and honeyed pecan. Peach highlights the tangy, lively close. $130
94 Laurent-Perrier, NV Brut Grand Siècle
La Cuvée, Tours-sur-Marne
Bright gold hue with an active bead. Nicely integrated aromas of pear, star apple, moist straw and malty pecan. Youthful flavors of lemon, kiwi, white bread, chalk and honey. Crisp, dry close highlighted by citrus. $80
94 Louis Roederer, 1997 Brut Cristal
Reims
Deep straw hue with lines of small bubbles and a full mousse. Quite apple-y with additional aromas of mixed grains, pecan, malt, buttered toast and a bread dough nuance. Foamy, juicy flavors of apple, peach, straw, yeast and honey. Crisp finish shows citrus and grains. $175
93 Moët & Chandon, 1996 Brut Dom Pérignon
Épernay
Pale straw hue with lots of medium bubbles. Perfumed aromas of sweet citrus, chalk, biscuit and notes of malt and toast. Balanced, youthful flavors of honeydew melon, lime, honey and a serious dose of flint. Clean, honeyed finish. $125
94 Nicolas Feuillatte, 1996 Brut
Cuvée Palmes d'Or, Chouilly
Pale gold hue with a moderate mousse. Fragrant aromas of apple, orange, buttered grains, beer and biscuit. Flavors of baked apple, maple, malt and vanilla are quite buttery and balanced. Ripe close marked by apricot and pineapple. $120
94 Perrier Jouët, 1996 Brut Fleur de Champagne
Épernay
Straw-yellow hue with an active, foamy bead. Zesty scents of lemon, kiwi, malt, brioche and butter pecan. Clean, spicy flavors of lemon curd, apple, honeyed nuts, flint and nutmeg. Lively finish features citrus, oats and malt. $125
94 Philipponnat, 1991 Clos des Goisses
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Medium yellow hue with ribbons of pinpoint bubbles and a full mousse. Exotic aromas of red berry, apple, Asian spices and pastry cream. Big, tangy flavors of baked apple, toasted grains, malt and a beery nuance. Buttery close concludes on a crisp note. $125
94 Piper-Heidsieck, NV Brut Cuvée Rare
Reims
Medium gold hue with lines of small bubbles and a big mousse. Rich, doughy aromas of lemon curd, peach, brioche and honey. Flavors of ripe lemon, honeydew melon, beer, flint and chalk. Long, citrusy close. $120
93 Pommery, 1995 Brut Cuvée Louise
Reims
Brilliant gold hue with ribbons of driving bubbles and a creamy mousse. Charred and oxidized notes lead to aromas of lemon, honeysuckle, beer and drawn butter. Youthful flavors of green apple, Meyer lemon, chalk and a touch of vanilla. Tight finish shows great promise. $120
94 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, 1996 Brut
La Grande Dame, Reims
Bright yellow-gold hue with active pinpoint bubbles. Voluptuous aromas of ripe apple, grilled pineapple, honeyed nuts, toasted grains and buttered bread. Crisp, balanced, beery flavors of baked apple, grapefruit, flint, toast and a Sherry note. Puckering close amplifies the wine's youth. $150 Rosé NV, Vintage & Prestige
90 A. Margaine, NV Brut Rosé
Villers-Marmery
Classic salmon hue with numerous pinpoint bubbles and a foamy mousse. Bright aromas of ripe strawberry, bread dough, flint and vanilla cookie. Sweet, balanced flavors of pink grapefruit, strawberry and brioche. Sweet-tart finish. $45
91 Besserat de Bellefon, NV Brut Rosé
Épernay
Medium pumpkin hue with active tiny bubbles. Pretty scents of baked apple, brown sugar and charred oak. Tangy flavors of strawberry jam, cherry, pumpkin soup and a flinty note. Long, sweet close. $40
93 Billecart-Salmon, NV Brut Rosé
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Burnished copper hue with a frothy mousse. Initial whiff of oxidation leads to serious aromas of orange peel, apricot, pecan cookie, sweet bread dough and mixed grains. Seamlessly integrated flavors of apricot, grapefruit, beer barrel, malt and caramel. Peppery close shows citrus. $55
84 Charles de la Milanière, NV Brut Rosé
Oger
Blood orange hue. Barnyardy aromas of orange peel, spicy clove and coffee. Lean, earthy flavors of plum, burnt orange and cinnamon. Short close. $60
96 Charles Heidsieck, 1996 Brut Millésime Rosé
Reims
Medium pumpkin hue with lots of tiny bubbles. Big, rich, toasty flavors of raspberry, baked apple, lemon curd, bread dough and a whiff of Sherry. Layered flavors of orange zest, lemon, bacon fat, beer barrel, flint and Sherry. Long, yeasty finish highlighted by an oxidized note. $75
90 Charles LaFitte, NV Brut Rosé
Premier Cru, Épernay
Medium copper hue with an ample mousse. Pungent, earthy scents of strawberry, orange peel and flint. Zesty flavors of citrus peel, red fruit and tea. Tangerine marks the close. $43
90 Duval-Leroy, NV Brut Rosé de Saignée
Vertus
Light salmon hue with ribbons of small bubbles. Fruity aromas of strawberry, tangerine, rose petal and cinnamon. Forward flavors of cherry, candied fruit and cedar. Brambly, fruit-driven finish. $35
94 H. Billot Fils, NV Brut Rosé
Grand Cru, Ambonnay
Medium gold hue with a light pumpkin tint. Complex aromas of orange peel, apricot, malt, bread dough, brown sugar and a flan nuance. Lots of beer precedes rich flavors of baked apple, raspberry, buttered nuts and yeast. Orange marmalade marks the tangy close. $49
93 Krug, Multi-Vintage Brut Rosé
Reims
Brilliant copper-orange hue with lines of fine bubbles and a foamy mousse. Big aromas of orange juice, apricot, toasted pecan and candied fruit. Meaty flavors of grilled orange, clove, beer barrel, cedar and toast. Youthful acidity enlivens the close. $282
95 L. Aubry, NV Brut Rosé
Premier Cru, Jouy-lès-Reims
Medium pumpkin hue with streams of small bubbles. Stylized aromas of candied orange peel, baked apple, bread dough, malt and nutmeg. Toasty flavors of lemon drop, butterscotch, white toast and malt. Tangy finish loaded with citrus and beer notes. $50
95 Lanson, NV Brut Rosé Label
Reims
Pale pumpkin hue with lines of fine bubbles. Huge, beautifully integrated aromas of red berry, raspberry, pastry cream, Sherry, white pepper and bread dough. Rich, yeasty flavors of ripe raspberry, fresh apple, orange juice, beer, mixed grains and nutmeg. Long, complex finish shows numerous components, including mixed grains and vanilla. $50
89 Laurent-Perrier, NV Brut Cuvée Rosé
Tours-sur-Marne
Deep salmon hue. Aromas of strawberry, earth, honey and wheat. Bold flavors of just-sliced apple, orange cream and wood notes. Tingly close. $50
93 Louis Roederer, 1998 Brut Vintage Rosé
Reims
Pale pumpkin hue with ribbons of pinpoint bubbles. Excellently integrated aromas of raspberry, citrus, pecan, caramel and malt. Wonderfully balanced flavors of apple, orange peel, flint, mixed grains and clotted cream. Ample citrus in the malty close. $63
89 Moët & Chandon, 1998 Brut Millésime Rosé
Épernay
Copper hue. Toasty aromas of apple, raspberry, wet stone and flint. Juicy flavors of raspberry, orange and baking spices. Winey finish. $60
95 Moët & Chandon, 1995 Brut Dom Pérignon Rosé
Épernay
Copper-orange hue with active bubbles and a foamy mousse. Perfumed aromas of apple, strawberry, dried orange, pastry cream, cedar and mixed nuts. Vibrant flavors of raspberry, red berry, pumpkin spice, flint and toasted grains. Weighty, youthful finish has an underpinning of ginger. $300
89 Moët & Chandon, NV Brut Impérial Rosé
Épernay
Blood orange hue. Intense aromas of rhubarb, cherry juice and balsamic. Sweet, juicy flavors of raspberry, orange marmalade and flint. Lengthy close. $40
89 Mumm, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Medium copper hue. Aromas of citrus, yeast, graphite and earth. Balanced, tangy flavors of orange, flint and white pepper. Chewy finish. $43
88 Nicolas Feuillatte, NV Rosé
Premier Cru, Épernay
Medium salmon hue. Fruity, flinty aromas of raspberry, orange peel and minerals. Sweet-tart flavors of orange, lemon and cedar. Tingly finish. $40
92 Nicolas Feuillatte, 1997 Brut Rosé
Cuvée Palmes d'Or, Chouilly
Deep pumpkin hue with small bubbles. Spicy aromas of cherry, rhubarb, chalk and sandalwood. Spritzy flavors of orange juice, strawberry, flint and Asian spice. Complex close accented by tobacco. $175
91 Perrier Jouët, 1997 Brut Rosé
Fleur de Champagne, Épernay
Medium pumpkin hue with a full mousse. Dusty scents of red cherry, orange peel and beer malt. An oxidized note leads to ample flavors of red apple, cherry and charred oak. Dry, citrusy finish. $163
92 Philipponnat, NV Brut Réserve Rosée
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Copper-orange hue with active bubbles. Creamy scents of apple, red fruit, orange peel, yeast and earth have an exotic nuance. Toasty flavors of cherry, orange candy and tobacco. Refreshing finish. $45
88 Piper-Heidsieck, NV Brut Rosé Sauvage
Reims
Blood red hue. Syrupy aromas of rhubarb, grape juice and baking spices. Flavors of black cherry and earth. Lots of cherry in the biting close. $45
95 Pol Roger, 1995 Brut Rosé
Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, Épernay
Medium gold hue with streams of tiny bubbles. Aged aromas of apple cider, lemon curd, pecan, white bread and pencil shavings. Big, buttery flavors of pear, citrus, flint and butterscotch. Sweet, toasty finish. $190
89 Pol Roger, 1996 Brut Rosé
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
Light orange hue. Pleasantly perfumed scents of red fruit, orange and flint. Meaty flavors of cherry, orange, vanilla and a balsamic note. Tight close. $70
93 Pommery, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Pale copper hue with a dense mousse. Beer and Sherry scents with undertones of orange, strawberry, brown spice and flint. Tingly acidity leads to flavors of apricot, raspberry and flint. Long, minerally finish. $60
90 René Geoffroy, NV Brut Rosé Saigneé
Premier Cru, Cumières
Dark copper hue with numerous small bubbles. Ripe aromas of strawberry, raspberry, orange cream and dust. Sweet, fruity flavors of raspberry, orange peel, cedar and minerals. Juicy finish shows red fruit. $50
90 Taittinger, NV Brut Prestige Rosé
Reims
Deep salmon hue with a foamy mousse. Toasty, charred scents of citrus, wood spice and earth. Lively, concentrated flavors of dried red berry, citrus peel, white toast and vanilla. Crisp, racy close. $70 Taittinger, 1996 Brut Rosé 94 Comtes de Champagne, Reims Deep pumpkin hue with a frothy mousse. Earthy, integrated aromas of apple, orange peel, mixed grains, yeast and a pleasing bacon fat note. Well-knit flavors of apricot, tart orange, chalk and hops. Flinty, youthful close promises long life. $200
94 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, 1995 Brut Rosé
La Grande Dame, Reims
Burnt orange hue with ample small bubbles and a foamy mousse. Hefty aromas of baked apple, orange, bread dough and a Cream Sherry nuance. Soft acidity frames layered flavors of cherry, tangerine, flint, Sherry and caramel. Long finish features tobacco and oxidized notes. $230
91 Vilmart, NV Brut Cuvée Rubis
Premier Cru, Rilly
Medium salmon hue with an active bead. Stylized aromas of red berry, cinnamon, coffee and balsamic. Concentrated flavors of red cherry, strawberry and malt. Cherry compote in the close. $56
88 Vilmart, 1998 Brut Grand Cellier Rubis
Rilly
Pale salmon hue with lines of tiny bubbles. Pungent aromas of cooked red fruit, orange juice and anise. Meaty flavors of blood orange, rhubarb and toast. Concentrated, sweet finish. $96
Other Sparklers
84 Bouvet, NV Signature Brut
Saumur, France
Pale yellow hue with a luminous green tint. Scents of vanilla and bread dough with a note of ginger. Honeydew melon and mineral flavors with a sweet core. Fluffy close. $13
85 Domaine Ste. Michelle, NV Blanc de Blancs
Columbia Valley, Washington
White gold hue. Clean, fresh scents of green apple and herbs. Tart, steely flavors of apple and lime. Mineral-laced finish. $12
85 Domaine Ste. Michelle, 1998 Luxe
Columbia Valley, Washington
Bright gold hue. Aromas of Bosc pear and wet stone with a vanilla nuance. Minty flavors of orange and ginger ale. Oak notes in the close. $23
86 Domaine Ste. Michelle, NV Blanc de Noirs
Columbia Valley, Washington
Light copper hue. Aromas of cherry juice and earth. Tart entry that turns sweet with strawberry flavors that carry through to the close. $12
84 Greg Norman Estates, Sparkling Chard-Pinot Noir
South East Australia
Bright gold hue. Fresh bread and vanilla scents. Foamy mouth-feel with steely citrus flavors. Dry, earthy finish. $16
86 Martini & Rossi, Prosecco
Trevigiana IGT, Italy
White gold hue with a green tint. Very fresh scents of green apple and pear. Soft, clean flavors of green apple and minerals. Creamy close. $14
88 Montenisa, NV Brut
Franciacorta, Italy
Light gold hue with ribbons of medium bubbles and a creamy mousse. Aromas of lemon, biscuit and a hint of honey. Balanced flavors of ripe apple and toast. Dry, fresh finish. $25
86 Montenisa, NV Brut Satèn
Franciacorta, Italy
Pale gold hue. An oak note introduces aromas of pear and herbs. Tart flavors of lemon and sandalwood. Biting close. $46
86 Montsarra, NV Brut
Cava, Spain
Pale yellow-gold hue. Ripe aromas of baked apple and brioche. Flavors of dried apple and citrus are quite lively. Tingly acidity marks the close. $13
84 Rosell Boher, NV Brut
Argentina
Bright gold hue. Sweet scents of honey with nutmeg and wet stone accents. Dry flavors of grapefruit and minerals. Chalky finish. $24
86 Rosell Boher, NV Grand Cuvée Millésimée
Argentina
Burnished copper hue. Ripe aromas of citrus peel, pecan and a pungent earthiness. Flavors of tangerine and honey with a note of caramel. Dry, slightly astringent finish balances the sweetness. $37
85 Rotari, NV Blanc de Noir
Trento, Italy
Very pale copper hue. Shy scents of strawberry, citrus peel and an earthy nuance. Flavors of green apple and orange peel are quite dry and tart. Tangerine in the close. $11
86 Rotari, NV Arte Italiana
Trento, Italy
Pale yellow hue. Fresh, doughy scents of apple, vanilla and straw. Soft flavors of citrus, pear and a hint of butter. Toasty close. $11
86 Segura Viudas, NV Brut Aria
Cava, Spain
Straw-gold hue. Pronounced aromas of apple and minerals. Vibrant flavors of pear, honeydew melon and a honey note. Crisp finish shows apple. $12
87 Segura Viudas, NV Brut
Reserva Heredad, Cava, Spain
Pale gold hue. Classic Cava scents of macerated apple, white flowers and a toasty nuance. Lemony fresh acidity heightens flavors of pear and mixed nuts. Dry, biscuity close. $20
83 Wolf Blass, NV Brut
Australia
Light white gold hue. Ginger ale scents with a note of chalk. Rather foamy and chalky with sweet and sour fruit flavors. Honeydew melon in the finish. $10
85 Wölffer, 2000 Brut Christian Wölffer Cuvée
The Hamptons, Long Island
Light yellow hue. Lemon-drop scents with a note of fresh bread. Tart citrus flavors with a zesty, foamy mouth-feel. Bone-dry finish. $30
86 Yarden, 1998 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Galilee, Israel
Pale straw hue. White chocolate and bread dough aromas followed by a chalkboard note. Rather dry and effervescent with crisp citrus flavors. Lingering toastiness in the close. $20
85 Zardetto, Brut Prosecco
Italy
Pale yellow hue. Pungent aromas of ripe apple and toast. Ample pear flavors with a sweet note. Soft close. $12
About the BuyLine Panel: More than 100 wines are reviewed in every issue of The Wine News. All wines are tasted double-blind and each entry is evaluated and scored based upon individual merit. Wines that score above 70 points are recommended in the BuyLine. Tasting and interpreting wine is a purely subjective exercise; all scores and accompanying tasting notes represent the collective opinions of our panel.
Wine Samples: Send samples for review with retail price affixed to:
The Wine News BuyLine Tasting Panel
1501 Venera Avenue, Suite 320
Coral Gables, FL 33146
Telephone: 305.740.7170
The Panel: Maurice Adams, specialty food and wine merchant; Lyn Farmer, senior staff columnist; Abraham Horowitz, BuyLine panelist; Tom E. Smith, publisher; John Stroker, BuyLine panelist; Fred Tasker, Miami Herald wine critic; Todd M. Wernstrom, executive editor.
Scoring: Tasting notes reflect the panel's collective impressions; scores are averaged and represent the panel's mean. Wines possessing certain criteria will be singled out for special recognition:
Taster's Choice: Wines which display outstanding quality, character and potential.
Best Value Wines of exceptional quality which sell at a moderate price.
Stemware: Riedel Ouverture tasting glasses.
Pricing: Prices vary from state to state. Retail prices listed are approximate.
