Richard Reddington, chef at Masa's in San Francisco, embraces Champagne both in and out of the kitchen
	Saucy Champagne - The Wine of Kings Does Kitchen Duty By Jen L Karetnick
		Longbefore I fell in love with Champagne, I fell in love with Champagne mustard. Cherchies Champagne mustard, to be exact, a smooth, hot-sweet condiment that I sold at my after-school job in a gourmet cheese shop and delicatessen. Whenever I opened a sample for the customers - and no one who tried it walked away without taking a jar or two home - I inevitably ate half the contents myself with a wedge of Leerdamer, and not just because I was a growing teenager. Its flavor and texture are addictive. Now, just as determined as ever to make converts, I zealously order it by the case from the Cherchies Web site for my own use and to stock in gift baskets. (Guess what I gave my colleagues for the holidays?) Paradoxically, long after my crush on the sparkling beverage was well established, I realized how easy it is to make Champagne mustard. The hardest part is sacrificing a portion of the precious bubbly to the recipe instead of drinking it all. To pour Champagne into a pot or pan - anything but a flute - might be unthinkable without the means and the access to good houses and fine vintages. But if you intend to drink a variety of bubblies from the front of the meal to the back, it's sensible to cook with it as you go, thus confirming the wine pairs. Wine country chefs such as Richard Reddington, who formerly manned the helm at Auberge de Soleil and now cooks at Masa's in San Francisco, are comfortable with integrating luxury Champagnes, such as Perrier-Jouët, into a meal as both a flavor highlight and an uplifting beverage - at least when preparing multi-course, Champagne-paired dinners. "Using Champagne in the dish speaks to the Champagne in the glass," he notes. Likewise, Tony de Luca, executive chef for Hillebrand's Estate Winery writes in his new cookbook, Recipes from Wine Country, "I believe that you could drink only Champagne during a meal and still be completely satisfied. As a chef, I have come to regard this wine not only as a great drinking wine, but also as an integral ingredient in my wine country cuisine." And in recent years, creating magical matches for an ethereal wine is more justifiable from an economic standpoint because the Champagne industry has become increasingly competitive - prices have moderated and quality has improved on lower- and middle-tier bottlings. Even sparkling wines from other countries have evolved to such a point that many now deliver impressive character. Most recipes calling for white wine are easily adapted to Champagne, though not every chef recommends it. Chef-proprietor of London's famed restaurant Le Gavroche and author of the cookbook by the same name, Michel Roux Jr., says he would never make such a substitution himself. Rather, when he wants to employ Champagne, he creates specific recipes anew, such as a special beurre blanc. "I would always prefer to drink Champagne than cook with it," he admits. "And cooking with fine vintage Champagne would be a waste. I prefer [using] a simple dry Champagne with plenty of depth." Likewise, Mark Caldwell, executive chef for J Vineyards & Winery, lightens up beurre blanc with bubbly. In this case, he uses a house sparkler, the 1999 J Vintage Brut, to spoon over pan-seared scallops and crispy potato cakes. And naturally, he recommends pairing the dish with the same. If you do want to use Champagne as proxy for still wine in any recipe, however, you don't even have to adjust measurements to account for the effervescence. Robbin Haas, chef-proprietor of Chispa restaurant in Miami, points out: "The bubbles die when they hit the heat." On the cooler side of things, sparkling wine can be a functional marinade for raw shellfish. Chef de Luca employs sparkling wine as the acid agent for scallop ceviche. "Those happy little bubbles of CO2 work magic to transform sea scallops into the most delicate shellfish you will ever taste," he enthuses. Consider serving those scallops as a refreshing dish on a cold buffet, along with Champagne mustard, a tray of artisan cheeses, charcuterie and flutes of crisp brut. Recipes for the specialty mustard abound. The version I like, and the one that most closely resembles Cherchies, combines eggs and sugar with Champagne, vinegar and dry mustard, and requires careful watch and frequent stirring while heating it to a custard-like consistency over a double boiler. If you have the luxury of time, you can create a completely different flavor profile by warming one cup each of Champagne and vinegar in a saucepan, then pouring it into a jar over one cup of dry mustard seeds. After steeping in the refrigerator for two weeks, the seeds are ready to be ground by mortar and pestle or in a food processor; this variation of Champagne mustard yields a coarser grain with more pungency and less sweetness. And because Champagne is so fromage friendly, you can easily update the ubiquitous Port wine-cheddar ball by folding together, to taste, some floral, aromatic rosé with the contents of a tub of softened, whipped cheddar. Sprinkle in minced chives, chopped shallots or a little crumbled bacon for added nuance. Such refined dips are both impressive and delicious, yet they take hardly any time to prepare. For an upscale version of the holiday cheese log, chill the rosé-infused cheese, shape it with your hands and roll it in crushed walnuts or pecans. Sparkling wine pairs with pungent cheeses so well that when it comes to a classic fondue, it proves a terrific substitute for still wine. At Chispa, Haas combines Spanish cheeses and Cava, and serves it as a bubbling fondue with shaved, fried root vegetables such as yuca and boniato. "Most sparkling wines are bone-dry with no wood," he notes. Thus Cava adds zing instead of creaminess to the already rich fondue. Whether you've opened a P-J flower bottle or a Segura Viudas Cava, other than pairing said wine with the food you've prepared with it, you might also choose to segue into a salad course with the same thread of flavor. Whisking together a very basic and classic Champagne vinaigrette requires little effort. You may also choose to enhance the blend by stirring in crushed fruits (be sure to strain out the seeds), minced nuts or crumbled cheese. For the holiday season, a cranberry-pignola or an apple-ginger-infused Champagne vinaigrette stands up well to sturdy, iron-rich, leafy greens such as spinach or arugula. No matter how you interpret it, a vinaigrette is not only for salad - it can also dress chicken or fish for a flavor-intense but not fat-rich entrée. When brightening up greens, to achieve a less-alcoholic flavor profile in the vinaigrette, it's advisable to heat the Champagne first and then allow it to cool before adding it to the recipe. Moving on to the soup course, nothing elevates a chowder or bisque like a splash of blanc de blancs - a more subtle alternative to the standard, harder-edged dose of sherry. Nearly every French cookbook has a wine-inclusive recipe for bisque (if not, a basic fish stock usually qualifies). In the case of a cream-based bisque, incorporate the Champagne just before serving. Mark Salter, executive chef at The Inn at Perry Cabin, advises: "Always add Champagne at the last moment ...As with adding herbs at the last minute, this will give it the freshest flavor." Reddington agrees, but cautions, "Allow the raw alcohol to cook off without losing the floral qualities of the Champagne." Alternatively, use Champagne generously in soups like French onion au gratin; when reduced, a nutty Champagne will deepen the recipe's exuberant flavors. The essences of Emmental or Gruyère, caramelized onions and Champagne create an unctuously irresistible, umami quality. As with soup and fondue, virtually any sauce that calls for white wine - from beurre blanc to demi-glace - can be improved by a bit of bubbly and heighten your main courses. Chef Salter recommends Besserat de Bellefon Blanc de Blancs made in the crémant style. "It allows you to use a little more acidity in your dishes, because the Champagne is so soft and creamy. Fish and shellfish lend themselves particularly well," he says. He bolsters that belief with a sumptuous filet of salmon with Champagne foam, as well as local oysters, poached in blanc de blancs, garnished with Champagne-brushed pink grapefruit segments and dressed with a Champagne-butter sauce. Oysters are a classic match for Champagne sauces, as additionally demonstrated by executive chef Ron Boyd of The Restaurant at Domaine Chandon. After poaching, he designs a hot-and-cold preparation by dressing some of the shellfish with a Champagne sorbet, and others on the same plate with a savory Champagne sabayon. Freshwater lake or brook fish also pair beautifully with an acidic, fruit-driven sparkler. Chef de Luca puts together pickerel with a saffron and sparkling wine broth and rainbow trout with a sparkling wine, grape and cream sauce. For the former, a sparkling wine-chicken stock is brought to a boil, then simmered for 45 minutes and reduced into an intense cupful; de Luca recommends that you "harmonize the flavors by cooking with the same wine you intend to drink." For the latter, "add the sparkling wine at the last moment to the sauce to preserve its delicate structure." Nor do you have to stick with light-fleshed fish or chicken. Chef Reddington might prepare an introductory dish of lobster poached in sparkling wine and shallots. But he also "likes to give a meal progression," and will frequently follow a shellfish recipe with a veal roast or tenderloin sauced with a reduction of the bubbly and tangerine juice. Champagne can also be mixed with brown sugar, honey and spices, warmed on the stove and used as a basting agent for ham or turkey. Zabar's, that New York City bastion of bagels and other epicurean goods, sells "Bilinski's Champagne ham," marinated (as the name indicates) in Champagne. Then it's hickory-smoked and glazed with brown sugar. Unless you're kosher, it's the perfect way to sweeten a holiday meal. And speaking of sweets, a Champagne sabayon over fresh berries might be the most refreshing, sparkle-receptive way to end a feast; chef Roux Jr.'s favorite dish is a simple peach and wild strawberry fruit salad splashed with Champagne and sweetened with a simple syrup. Riffs on the fruit-Champagne theme are limited only by the imagination: Champagne-peach sorbet or Champagne-poached pears are just as sophisticated, and a fine match for that Moët & Chandon Nectar Impérial you've been waiting all year to pop. Features Editor Jen L. Karetnick also writes the "Sexy Tastes" column for Citizen Culture magazine and the "Kitsch'n" column for The Drexel Online Journal. Champagne Mustard From Jen L. Karetnick 1/3 cup Brut Champagne 1/3 cup cider vinegar 3/4 cup sugar (substitute 1/2 cup light brown sugar) 2/3 cup Colman's dry mustard 3 eggs, beaten 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper Pinch of salt In a saucepan over low heat, combine Champagne, vinegar and sugar until sugar has dissolved. Allow to cool and pour in the top of a double boiler. Add mustard, eggs, pepper and salt ,and heat over boiling water, stirring until thick. Refrigerate. Variations: Add 1 teaspoon grated lemon or orange zest and rind; a pinch of ground cayenne or other chili pepper; or 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon or other herb before refrigerating. Makes 11/2 cups Champagne Vinaigrette From Jen L. Karetnick 1/2 cup Rosé Champagne 1 teaspoon shallots, minced 1 cup grapeseed oil 1/4 cup Champagne vinegar (substitute rice wine vinegar) 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice Sea salt Freshly ground black pepper In a saucepan, heat Champagne and shallots until shallots are soft. Remove from heat and cool. In a non-reactive bowl, whisk the Champagne mixture with oil, vinegar, mustard and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 11/2 cups Cava Fondue From Chef-Owner Robbin Haas of Chispa 2 cups half-and-half 3/4 cup shredded Manchego cheese 3/4 cup shredded sharp white Cheddar cheese 1/4 cup Cabrales blue cheese 2 tablespoons roasted garlic purée 2 tablespoons Colman's dry mustard 3/4 cup Cava or other sparkling wine 1 loaf crusty bread, sliced and toasted (substitute yuca, sweet potato or boniato chips) In a saucepan or fondue pot, bring the half-and-half to a simmer. Add all ingredients except wine. Allow cheese to melt. When smooth, add wine and simmer for 10 minutes. Can be refrigerated or served immediately with toasted crusty bread or a selection of root chips. Serves 6 Oysters with Chandon Blanc De Noirs Sorbet & Chandon Brut Sabayon From Chef Ron Boyd of The Restaurant at Domaine Chandon 32 oysters, shucked For the Sorbet: 1 bottle Chandon Blanc de Noirs 1 tablespoon of pink peppercorns 3 tablespoons verjus 1/2 cup simple syrup Juice from 1/2 of a lemon Salt to taste Reduce half the bottle of wine by 1/2. Add remaining ingredients and taste, strain and cool. Spin combined ingredients in an ice cream maker or let freeze and scrape with a fork for a snow-like texture. For the Sabayon: 4 whole eggs 1/2 cup vegetable stock 2 tablespoons Chandon Brut Classic 4 tablespoons Meyer lemon juice 1 bunch chives, chopped Whisk to combine all ingredients. Season with a pinch of salt. Over low heat, whisk continuously, making sure to stir the edges. When mixture resembles whipped cream, remove from heat and keep warm. Place a spoonful of sorbet on each of 16 oysters and sprinkle with chives. Top the other 16 oysters with sabayon. Serve immediately. Serves 8 Poached Oysters in Bellefon Champagne with Serrano Ham, Swiss Chard & Pink Grapefruit From Executive Chef Mark Salter of The Inn at Perry Cabin 20 oysters 1/2 cup Bellefon Blanc de Blancs 1 tablespoon pink grapefruit juice 1/4 cup shallots, finely diced 1 teaspoon roasted garlic, puréed 1/4 cup Serrano ham, thinly sliced and cut into strips 3/4 cup fresh young Swiss chard leaves (or spinach leaves), washed and chopped Champagne Butter Sauce (see recipe below) Ground white pepper to taste Kosher salt to taste 20 pink grapefruit segments Shuck oysters, reserving the liquor and shells. Wash shells and heat them in a hot oven until warm. In a small saucepan, combine Champagne, pink grapefruit juice, shallots, roasted garlic and Serrano ham. Bring to a simmer over low heat, then reduce by half. Add oysters and liquor and cook gently for 1 minute before adding the chopped Swiss chard leaves. When the chard has wilted, remove from heat and stir in the Champagne Butter Sauce. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Place grapefruit segments on a small rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle lightly with Champagne. Warm for a few moments in a hot oven. Arrange shells on a serving platter (or a bed of blanched seaweed if desired). Spoon a poached oyster, some chard and Champagne Butter Sauce into each shell. Be sure to keep some sauce in reserve. Top each oyster with a pink grapefruit segment and finish with another spoonful of sauce. Serves 4 For the Butter Sauce: 3 tablespoons shallots, finely diced 1 cup Bellefon Blanc de Blancs 1/3 cup heavy cream 2/3 cup unsalted butter, cut into 1/2" cubes and chilled Pinch of chipotle pepper Combine shallots, Champagne and chipotle in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Reduce over low heat until only about 3 tablespoons remain; add heavy cream. Simmer for 2-3 minutes until cream begins to thicken. Remove from heat and whisk in chilled butter. Makes about 1/2 cup Pan-Seared Sea Scallops with Sparkling Beurre Blanc From Executive Chef Mark Caldwell of J Vineyards & Winery 1/4 cup J Vintage Brut 3 tablespoons Champagne vinegar 3/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon white pepper 4 tablespoons shallots, minced 1 pound butter, chilled and cut into 1" cubes 4 large diver scallops Salt and pepper to taste Clarified butter or olive oil as needed Combine wine, Champagne vinegar, salt, pepper and shallots in a small saucepan. Reduce the mixture until approximately 1 tablespoon of liquid remains. Over low heat, whisk in butter cubes a few pieces at a time until incorporated. Do not let the sauce simmer or it will break. Once the butter is incorporated, remove from heat and strain through a fine chinois. Hold sauce in a warm place until needed. Season scallops with salt and pepper on both sides. Heat medium-size skillet over high heat until hot, then add butter or oil. Place scallops in skillet, reduce heat to medium and cook until well browned on both sides. Plate scallops and sauce with buerre blanc. Serves 2 Scallops marinated in Sparkling Wine From Recipes from Wine Country by Tony de Luca 1/4 cup lime juice 1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 cup sparkling wine 1 tablespoon finely chopped coriander 1 teaspoon mustard seeds, lightly toasted 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger 1 teaspoon granulated sugar Pinch cayenne pepper 1 pound fresh sea scallops In a large bowl, add all ingredients except scallops and whisk to combine. Add scallops and cover bowl with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 3 hours. Remove scallops from the marinade and serve (discard marinade). Serves 6 Rainbow Trout with Sparkling Wine, Grape & Cream Sauce From Recipes from Wine Country by Tony de Luca 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 pounds rainbow trout fillets, pin bones removed and cut into 6 portions Kosher salt and white pepper to taste 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 shallot, finely diced 1 leek, white part only, finely diced 2 tomatoes, seeded and finely chopped 1 cup half-and-half 1 lemon, juiced 1 cup seedless grapes, halved 1/4 cup sparkling wine Heat a large sauté pan and add olive oil. Season trout to taste and place in hot pan, flesh side down, for 3 minutes until golden brown. Turn over to skin side and reduce heat to low. Cook for 3 minutes. Remove from pan and keep warm. In a small sauce pan, heat butter until foamy. Add shallot and leek, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes until soft, stirring frequently. Add tomatoes and cream and season to taste. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for 10 minutes. Just before serving, add lemon juice, grapes and sparkling wine, and stir. Place warm trout on plate. Spoon sauce over trout and serve immediately. Serves 6 Korbel Champagne-Poached Pears From Korbel Executive Chef Phil McGauley 6 firm, ripe pears Vanilla ice cream For the poaching liquid: 5 cups Korbel NV Blanc de Noirs 1 cup sugar 4 3" strips orange peel 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 4 whole cloves Peel and core pears, leaving whole with stems on. Combine poaching liquid in a large pot and bring to a boil, for about 5 minutes. Add pears and reduce to a simmer until pears are cooked though. Allow pears to cool in liquid. Serve pears with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a little poaching liquid. Serves 6 - JLK

	home • cover story • commentary • feature • buyline complimentary taste • past issues • writers • subscribe
	Wine News P.O. Box 14-2096 Coral Gables, FL 33114 Telephone: 305.740.7170 Fax: 305.740.7153