Wine Reviews from Wine News
tasters' choice selections
100 Krug, 1990 Brut
Reims
Bright gold hue with ribbons of tiny bubbles. Extremely intense aromas of browned apple, orange, honeyed nuts, maple, Sherry and baking spices. Weighty, well-balanced flavors of cooked apricot, citrus, baked apple, malt, caramel and beer. Long berry and caramel finish; deserving of a perfect score two years in a row. $205 / 5,000 cases
98 Veuve Clicquot, 1996 Brut La Grande Dame
Reims
Deep gold hue with copious pinpoint bubbles. Beautifully meshed aromas of buttered apricot, apple, Sherry, malt, beer and a lightening dose of sweet bread dough. Rich, Sherried flavors of apple, buttered toast and beer show an appealing oxidized nuance. Even, clean, creamy close. $150 / undisclosed case production
97 Charles Heidsieck, 1996 Brut Millésime Rosé
Reims
Lovely salmon-copper hue. Sweet, perfectly integrated aromas of cherry compote, apricot, cinnamon bread dough, beer and pecan. Flavors of cooked-down red fruit, baked apple, banana peel, chalk, Sherry, toast and beer have an aged quality that isn't apparent in the nose. Honey, yeast and toffee notes grace the finish. $75 / 5,000 cases
best value selections
90 Chandon, NV Blanc de Noirs
California
Light gold hue. Forward apple and ginger scents show a defined earthiness. Creamy flavors of orange, butternut, pecan and vanilla. Long close is round and smooth. $18 / undisclosed case production
90 Laurent-Perrier, NV Brut L-P
Tours-sur-Marne
Medium yellow-gold hue with lines of tiny bubbles. Toasty, quite flinty aromas of citrus, minerals and chalk. Lively, foamy flavors of apple, lemon drop and yeast are very dry and palate whetting. Clean, crisp close has a nice bite to it. $30 / 400,000 cases
88 Segura Viudas, NV Estate Brut Aria
Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, Spain
White-gold hue. A mixed bouquet of talc, clove and cinnamon. Balanced and somewhat dry flavors of apple and peach. Good length with mineral and citrus notes complemented by a lingering toastiness in the finish. $12 / 11,000 imported cases
publisher's pick
95 Taittinger, NV Brut Cuvée Prestige Rosé
Reims
Attractive strawberry hue with a continuous stream of fine bubbles. An uplifting, pungent bouquet of red licorice and strawberry. Layers of intense black cherry, ginger and licorice flavors. A delicious, persistent rosé with lasting red fruit impressions in the close. $70 / 1,750 imported cases
California
Brut NV & Vintage
91 Chandon, 1997 Brut
Sonoma/Napa Counties
Flinty aromas of citrus, chalk and oak char have a pecan sweetness. Flavors of apple, melon and toast show none of the shrillness that many sparklers from California possess. Long, soft close. $50
88 Chandon, NV Reserve Brut
Napa/Sonoma Counties
Aromas of baked apple and straw. Tart flavors of green apple and earth have just the right acidic punch. Dry finish. $25
88 Chandon, NV Brut Classic
California
Fresh aromas of citrus, pecan, chalk and a whiff of bread dough. Classic brut style with youthful acidity working its way through the citrus and mineral flavors. Lean close. $18
88 Domaine Carneros, 2002 Brut
Carneros
Butter and toast aromas with a hint of wet stone. Sweet and frothy with an elegant fruit-driven follow through. Soft finish shows a defined sweetness. $25
87 Gloria Ferrer, NV Brut
Sonoma County
Crisp aromas of green apple and minerals. Tart apple flavors are softened a bit by the foamy texture. Straw notes in the close. $18
88 Iron Horse, 2000 Classic Vintage Brut
Sonoma County, Green Valley
Light floral notes followed by chalky mineral scents. Quite tart with crisp acidity, ginger and citrus flavors. Dry, flinty finish. $30
85 Korbel, NV Brut
California
Sweet scents of honey, vanilla, hazelnut and cantaloupe. Frothy, sweet flavors have an edge of lemon tartness that also resides in the close. $11
87 Korbel, 2003 Brut Natural
Russian River Valley
Alluring rose gold hue. Pungent, Cava-like aromas of apple, melon and brown spice. Foamy flavors of baked apple, honey and beer. Tart finish. $14
92 Mumm Napa, NV Reserve Brut
Napa Valley
Mature aromas of char, yeast and flint with fruit notes in the background. Beautifully aged flavors of baked apple and flint are seamlessly integrated and deftly delivered. Long, dry, yeasty close. $25
86 Mumm Napa, NV Brut Prestige
Napa Valley
Light honey and nutmeg aromas. Somewhat tart green apple flavors have a steely edge of youthful acidity. Lively lemon drop punctuates the finish. $18
88 Laetitia, NV Brut Cuvée
Arroyo Grande Valley
Lemon peel and sweet banana scents. Buttery and frothy tropical fruit flavors combine with youthful acids. A mix of vanilla and citrus in the close. $18
86 Piper Sonoma, NV Brut Select Cuvée
Sonoma County
Chalky scents show a hint of yeast. Sweet, creamy fruit flavors with a secondary mineral accent. Dry, tart finish; typical brut style. $15
88 Roederer Estate, NV Brut
Anderson Valley
A flint note jumps from the glass yielding to scents of ripe melon and brioche. Nicely integrated flavors of apple and citrus. Apple cider marks the close. $17
88 Scharffenberger, NV Brut
Anderson Valley
Pretty scents of pear and bread dough. Tangy, foamy lime peel flavors are bitingly fresh. Crisp close brings together this tight, well-made package. $16
90 Schramsberg, NV Brut Mirabelle
North Coast
Aromas of apple and lemon zest with a Sherry note that adds considerable depth. Big flavors of citrus, chalk and toast are delivered by way of a foamy texture. Lively finish imbued with citrus fruit. $19
89 Schramsberg, 1999 Reserve
Mendocino/Napa/Monterey/Sonoma/Marin
Highly stylized aromas of apple, banana, honey and malt. Flavors of apple, orange peel, butter and yeast are just as unique. Freshens up in the close. $70
Blanc de Blancs
NV & Vintage
87 Chandon, 2000 Blanc de Blancs
Single Vineyard, Mt. Veeder
Earthy scents of pear, chalk, straw and toast. Refreshing flavors of lemon and baking spice. Dry, chalky finish. $45
89 Gloria Ferrer, 2002 Blanc de Blancs
Carneros
Delicate aromas of candied lemon peel, pineapple, straw and bread dough. Crisp, well-fruited flavors of citrus, toast and minerals. Tingly close. $24
92 Iron Horse, 1997 Blanc de Blancs
Sonoma County, Green Valley
Fresh brioche with a whiff of lemon zest in the nose. Nicely balanced while still being nervy, imparting light lemon and cream flavors. Crisp and sweet with a lingering toastiness in the finish. $34
93 Iron Horse, 1996 Blanc de Blancs LD
Sonoma County, Green Valley
Forward aromas of pecan pie and butternut with a whiff of Sherry. Round, juicy flavors of honey, citrus and nutmeg. Lasting citrus impressions with an attractive mix of brown spice in the close. $60
87 Korbel, NV Chardonnay
California
Fresh scents of candied lime and lemon with vanilla notes. Spritzy flavors of red apple and lemon drop. Crisp, prickly finish. $11
88 Laetitia, 2002 Brut de Blancs
Arroyo Grande Valley
Toasty aromas of apple, biscuit and straw with a chalk note. Beery flavors of just-sliced pear and citrus are quite invigorating. Shellfish-friendly close. $25
91 Schramsberg, 2001 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Mendocino/Napa/Monterey/Sonoma/Marin
Champagne-like aromas and flavors of apple, peach, dough and chalk show pretty floral overtones. Long finish concludes on a cleansing note. $33
Blanc de Noirs
NV & Vintage
89 Gloria Ferrer, NV Blanc de Noirs
Sonoma County
Fresh scents of pear, brioche and straw. Bracing flavors of just-sliced green apple and minerals are very dry. Foamy, crisp finish. $18
86 Korbel, NV Blanc de Noirs
California
Yeasty, chalky aromas with notes of vanilla and pecan. Relatively sweet ginger and orange-peel flavors. Sweet close. $11
87 Laetitia, 2001 Brut de Noir
Arroyo Grande Valley
Fresh aromas of vanilla, yeast and chalk. Attractive lemon zest and vanilla flavors followed by a drying mineral accent. Crisp, youthful finish. $25
89 Mumm Napa, NV Blanc de Noirs
Napa Valley
Fruity raspberry aromas are not cloying thanks to a dose of flint. Super fresh, squeaky clean flavors of red berry and toast scream for food. Bright close. $18
91 Schramsberg, 2001 Brut NV Blanc de Noirs
Napa/Mendocino/Sonoma/Marin
Sweet pecan aromas with notes of chalk and yeast. Fresh bread dough, pecan, lemon and vanilla flavors. Full and rich with creamy meringue in the finish. $31
85 Piper Sonoma, NV Blanc de Noirs
Select Cuvée, Sonoma County
$11
84 Shug, 2002 Brut Rouge de Noirs
Carneros
$25
Rosé
Vintage & Prestige
87 Domaine Carneros, 2001 Greta Garbo Rosé
Napa Valley
Aromas of rhubarb and wet stone. Ample orange juice and other citrusy flavors. The citrus theme continues in the brisk close. $42
90 Domaine Chandon, NV étoile Rosé
Sur Lees 2000, Mendocino/Napa/Sonoma
Reserved aromas of apple, orange, dusty slate and minerals. Expressive flavors of ripe cherry, flint and an intriguing bacon fat note. More orange in the finish. $45
87 Gloria Ferrer, NV Brut Rosé
Carneros
Appealing scents of citrus blossom and cedar. Dry flavors of orange peel and grapefruit rind. Tart red fruit in the close. $35
86 Korbel, NV Brut Rosé
California
Perfect salmon hue. Quite pungent aromas of rhubarb and minerals. Tart flavors of cranberry, apple and a cedar note. Bone-dry finish. $11
92 Roederer Estate, NV Brut Rosé
Anderson Valley
Champagne-like aromas of baked apple, lemon curd and dough are beautifully integrated. Very refreshing flavors of raspberry, apple, minerals and flint are bracing without being painfully so. Clean, minerally close. $27
Prestige Cuvée
90 Chandon, NV Brut étoile
Sur Lees 1999, Napa/Sonoma Counties
Vibrant aromas of apple, pear and toast. Crispy, tangy flavors of green apple and biscuit are compact and unerringly fresh if not especially generous. Toasty finish. $37
90 Domaine Carneros, 1999 Brut Le Rêve
Blanc de Blancs, Carneros
Lightly toasty aromas of citrus, chalk and damp stone sport a beery nuance. Balanced flavors of apple and peach feature a pleasant oxidized note. Candied citrus heightens the otherwise austere close. $59
88 Gloria Ferrer, 1996 Carneros Cuvée
Carneros
Fresh, almost briny aromas of green apple and flint open up somewhat with air. Sprightly flavors of tart apple and toast possess a creamy mouth-feel. Straw and beer mark the close. $50
89 Iron Horse, 1996 Brut LD
Sonoma County, Green Valley
Reserved scents of red fruit and flowers. Flavors of apple, beer and biscuit are more expressive than suggested by the nose but are by no means exuberant. Yeasty finish. $60
93 Roederer Estate, 1999 Brut L'Ermitage
Anderson Valley
Mature, lively aromas of citrus and red apple with a pleasing oxidized note. Creamy texture and softer acidity than many of its California brethren frame flavors of baked apple and flint. Winey close. $72
94 Schramsberg, 1999 J. Schram
Napa/Mendocino/Sonoma/Monterey/Marin
Toasty aromas of ripe apple and yeast are very well integrated and show great heft. Beery flavors of apple and yeast are quite mature already and make for a brilliant package. Long, flinty finish. $80
Oregon
86 Argyle, 2000 Brut
Willamette Valley
Fresh scents of lime, minerals and chalk. Lots of apple flavors on a toasty backdrop. Steely close. $22
89 Argyle, 1995 Extended Tirage
Willamette Valley
Nicely reserved aromas of apple, honey, toast and cinnamon. Sweet, foamy flavors of lemon, honeydew melon, beer and chalk. Delicate finish features lime and honey. $35
Virginia
88 Kluge, 2002 Brut SP
Albermarle County
Nutty aromas of lemon blossom, green apple and bread dough. Tart, chalky flavors of apple and lime peel with a beery note. Almost stinging acidity settles down a bit in the clean close. $38
Washington
87 Domaine Ste. Michelle, NV Cuvée Brut
Columbia Valley
Sweet vanilla and yeast aromas have a defined mineral character. Dry and tart with citrus and secondary apple cider flavors. Refreshing finish. $12
86 Domaine Ste. Michelle, NV Blanc de Noirs
Columbia Valley
Fresh, tart mixed berry aromas and flavors have a minerally nuance. Youthful, acidic close features strawberry fruit and a metallic bite. $12
85 Domaine Ste. Michelle, 1999 Luxe
Columbia Valley
$23
France
Brut NV & Vintage
91 Aubry, NV Brut
Jouy-les-Reims
Rose gold hue. Lovely scents of apricot, baked apple, biscuit and caramel. Tight, tingly flavors of apple, pineapple, burnt maple and a favorable oxidized note. Tart, bone-dry finish. $42
92 Besserat de Bellefon, NV Brut
Cuvée des Moines, Épernay
An aged nuance lends gravity to fresh aromas of raspberry, lemon drop, marzipan and bread dough. Malty, bracing flavors of citrus peel, butter, pecan and flint. A candied lemon peel note in the otherwise steely close. $39
92 Billecart-Salmon, NV Brut Réserve
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Fresh aromas of vanilla, ginger and chalk with a note of clove. Peach and mineral flavors with a frothy mouth-feel. Dry, brut-style finish concludes with a lasting, honeyed, croissant-like sweetness. $35
96 Billecart-Salmon, 1996 Brut
Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Beautifully integrated aromas of very ripe apple, peach, apricot, sweet bread dough and a whiff of Sherry. Deep flavors of lemon, pineapple, honey and yeast. Tangy, minty fresh close shows the wine's youth. $100
91 Bollinger, NV Brut Special Cuvée
Aÿ
Well-oxidized, mature aromas of lemon, mixed grains, beer barrel and honey. Hefty flavors of apricot, drawn butter, honey and yeast. Long, candied close jammed with stone fruit and butterscotch notes. $50
90 Bollinger, 1997 Brut Grande Année
Aÿ
Aged aromas of apple, banana peel, yeast and beer barrel. Intense flavors of apple cider, pecan, oak and butter are somewhat brooding at present. Oak char marks the finish. $120
92 Charles Ellner, NV Brut Réserve
Épernay
Honeyed aromas of baked apple, sliced orange, vanilla wafer and butter. A huge mouthful of apple, pineapple, citrus, Sherry and lots of honey. Lingering, toasty close. $36
94 Charles Ellner, 1995 Seduction
Épernay
Perfumed aromas of red berry, citrus, vanilla and brioche. Yeasty, focused flavors of juicy apple, banana peel, chalk and toast balanced by bracing acidity. Malty finish. $58
92 Charles Heidsieck, 1995 Brut Millésime
Reims
Mature, lively aromas of buttered stone fruit, red berry, yeast, beer and slate. Well-balanced flavors of red berry, apricot, honeyed grains, malt and butter. Smooth finish shows ale notes. $70
92 Chartogne-Taillet, NV Brut Cuvée Ste.-Anne
Montagne de Reims
Biscuity, doughy scents of apricot and ripe apple are beautifully meshed. Intense, buttery flavors of apple, citrus and toasted bread are grounded by a hearty dose of minerals. Fresh finish. $42
88 Delamotte, NV Brut
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Elegant aromas of pear and cake frosting with balancing notes of oak char and earth. Great balance allows crisp flavors of citrus peel and apple to shine. Tart, minerally close. $44
91 Deutz, 1998 Brut
Aÿ
Lively, honeyed aromas of apple, red berry, brioche and minerals. Tangy, balanced flavors of baked apple, lemon, malt and butterscotch. Red apple and peach in the long finish. $69
92 Deutz, NV Brut Classic
Aÿ
Mature aromas of pear, peach, orange and damp stone possess a charred nuance. Layers of dry, though generous flavors of red apple, citrus, malt, minerals and chalk. Lengthy close sports a cookie dough sweetness. $40
88 G.H. Mumm, NV Brut Cordon Rouge
Reims
Lemony fresh scents of apple, nutmeg, wet stone, pecan and a whiff of smoke. Sweet-tart flavors of lemon peel and apple have a pleasing lightness. Lingering, sweet finish shows a toastiness. $43
90 G.H. Mumm, NV Brut Grand Cru
Reims
A light floral note yields to aromas of peach, minerals, chalk and yeast. Big, chalky flavors of apricot, apple, honey and grains are kept fresh by citrusy acidity. Steely close is sweetened up by an orange marmalade note. $56
89 Gaston Chiquet, NV Brut Carte Verté
Vallée de la Marne
Toasty aromas of lime blossom, peach, honey and bread dough. Razor-sharp flavors of citrus, peach, flint, pilsner beer and honey soften somewhat with air. Dry, beery finish. $42
92 Gosset, NV Brut Excellence
Aÿ
Rich, mature, buttery aromas of ripe apple, caramel, minerals and chalk continue to deepen with airing. Very intense flavors of peach nectar, bread dough, butter and yeast. Bright acidity heightens the snappy finish. $40
92 Gosset, NV Brut Grande Reserve
Aÿ
Bakery aromas couple with nutmeg, pecan and a whiff of Sherry. Soft apple butter flavors with pecan and Sherry accents. Honey and orange peel cap the close. $60
93 H. Billiot & Fils, NV Brut Réserve
Montagne de Reims
Huge aromas of baked apple, ripe apricot, pecan, Sherry and honey. Artfully balanced flavors of cherry, apple, beer and buttered toast have supple, aged qualities. Lots of stone fruit in the finish. $53
92 Jean Lallement & Fils, NV Brut
Montagne de Reims
Very pretty, very nuanced scents of apple, pear, sweet bread dough, honey and walnut. Bright, juicy flavors of apple, raspberry, flint and Sherry. Zesty red berry in the long close. $49
94 Laurent-Perrier, 1996 Brut Millésime
Tours-sur-Marne
Perfumed aromas of apple, lemon thyme, freshly baked bread and lots of chalk. Mouthwatering flavors of apple, white peach, butter and red fruit. Long finish framed by grapefruit and straw. $40
91 Louis Roederer, 1997 Brut Vintage
Reims
A whiff of Sherry leads to complex scents of apple cider, baking spice, bread and white flowers. Flavors of apple, grilled pineapple, malt and toast are quite youthful. A touch of sweetness in the close. $71
91 Louis Roederer, NV Brut Premier
Reims
Minerally, flinty scents of apple, lemon, mixed grains and almond are focused and fresh. Bright, youthful flavors of lemon peel, Granny Smith apple and chalk. Dry, toasty finish. $40
87 Moët & Chandon, 1999 Brut Millésime Blanc
Épernay
Light aromas of ginger, apple and vanilla. Flavors of apple, ginger ale and confectioner's sugar. Close oozes sweetness. $60
88 Nicolas Feuillatte, NV Brut
Premier Cru Chouilly, Épernay
Lots of citrus and apple scents possess an underlying bread dough richness. Foamy, sweet flavors of apple, lemon and cream. Flinty finish marked by pecan. $23
88 Nicolas Feuillatte, NV Brut Cuvée Spéciale
Premier Cru Chouilly, Épernay
Honeyed aromas of orange marmalade, lemon drop, brioche and an intriguing herbal essence. Soft, quite ripe flavors of stone fruit, lemon and cinnamon dough. Jammy close. $50
86 Perrier Jouët, NV Grand Brut
Épernay
Flint and chalk notes dust the otherwise light aromas of apple and melted butter. Dry flavors of green apple and flint. Buttered nuts in the finish. $49
91 Philipponnat, NV Brut Royale Réserve
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Mature aromas of apple, bread dough, flint and tobacco show great nuance. Fresh, weighty flavors of lime, pear, burnt sugar, chalk and butter. Squeaky-clean close notable for apple and toast. $40
93 Piper-Heidsieck, 1998 Brut
Reims
Classic, toasty scents of raspberry, honeyed oats and flint are both floral and perfumed. Foamy, lively, almost briny flavors of lemon, grapefruit, biscuit and yeast. Chalky, minerally finish. $65
92 Piper-Heidsieck, NV Brut
Reims
A serious oxidation note heralds big aromas of baked apple, banana peel, charred oak and Sherry. Bold, though balanced flavors of apple, peach, pecan and Sherry have an aged quality. Lingering close has a great mix of fruit and spice. $35
95 Pol Roger, 1998 Brut
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
Mature, polished aromas of apple, banana, stone fruit, pilsner beer, honey and lots of flint. Flavors of apple butter, peach, malt and hay are somewhat more youthful than suggested by the nose. Long, beery close highlighted by ripe peach notes. $92
87 Pol Roger, NV Brut
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
Steely aromas of green apple and grains. Rather tart flavors of apple and straw. Cleansing finish. $28
89 Pommery, NV Brut Royal
Reims
Aromas of apple, lemon peel, minerals and croissant dough. Big, foamy flavors of tart green apple, biscuit and honey. Minerally fresh close. $37
90 Pommery, NV Brut Apanage
Reims
Well-aged aromas of baked apple, banana peel, butter and burnt honey deepen with airing. Almost cidery flavors of apple, citrus and oak char. Mature, Sherried finish. $42
93 Pommery, 1995 Brut Grand Cru
Reims
Charred aromas of apple peel, apricot, malt and flint. Nectar-like texture frames flavors of apple, apricot, buttered toast and honey. Tart, beery close. $60
93 René Geoffroy, NV Brut
Cuvée de Réserve, Vallée de la Marne
Heady, doughy, yeasty aromas of apple, pineapple, drawn butter, cinnamon and Sherry. Great balance and seamlessly integrated flavors of orange peel, banana, peach, beer and flint. Mixed grains and minerals highlight the finish. $46
92 René Geoffroy, NV Brut
Cuvée Sélectionnée, Vallée de la Marne
Beery aromas of baked apple, lemon, toast, butter and yeast. Tangy, flinty flavors of apple, white grapefruit, tobacco and bread dough. Lingering close shows traces of orange peel and cedar. $53
91 Taittinger, NV Brut La Française
Reims
Crisp aromas of green apple, wheat and minerals. Fresh, creamy flavors of apple and toasted bread with hints of red fruit. Classy finish. $30
90 Taittinger, 1999 Brut Millésime
Reims
Shy scents of apple, straw, chalk and minerals. Juicy flavors of green apple, baking spices and buttered bread. Cleansing close softens toward its fruit-filled conclusion. $70
88 Taittinger, NV Brut Prélude
Reims
Minerally scents with notes of yeast, light toast and seashore. Tart entry with caramel and citrus flavors that possess a defined creaminess.Youthful finish shows peach, orange and caramel. $70
91 Veuve Clicquot, NV Brut
Reims
Perfumed scents of lemon curd, white peach, brioche and white flowers. Silky flavors of apple, pear and flint have exquisite balance. Tart close shows lots of citrus. $40
Blanc de Blancs
NV, Vintage & Prestige
91 A. Margaine, 1998 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Reims
Very flinty aromas of citrus, toasted bread, chalk and pilsner beer. Winey flavors of lime peel, apple and yeast are quite racy. Tart, youthful finish. $63
91 Besserat de Bellefon, NV Blanc de Blancs
Cuvée des Moines, Épernay
Inviting aromas of apple, stone, yeast and malt have a Chablis-like cleanliness. Ripe, winey flavors of peach, moistened grains and chalk with a tasty marzipan note. Long, lemony close. $65
94 Billecart-Salmon, 1997 Blanc de Blancs
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Doughy aromas of apple, buttered brioche and malt seem a bit tight at this point. Creamy flavors of green apple, orange, sweet bread dough and beer with a nice oxidized note. Lingering, sweet close. $127
93 Charles Heidsieck, 1995 Blanc de Millénaires
Reims
A whiff of oxidation introduces rich aromas of baked apple, ginger, drawn butter and flint. Mature, concentrated flavors of citrus, apple, peach, honey and toast. Soft finish reveals flint notes. $95
92 Delamotte, 1997 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Nicely charred aromas of apple, stone fruit, chalk and toast. Fresh, flinty flavors of lemon, peach nectar, chalk and toasted bread are fruit driven. Lasting close shows ample fruit and spice. $74
92 Deutz, 1998 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Aÿ
Sweet aromas of stone fruit, butter, bread pudding, pecan and lots of dough. Luscious flavors of baked apple, beer and toast are very easy on the palate. Crisp, citrusy finish. $71
91 G.H. Mumm, NV Mumm de Cramant
Grand Cru, Reims
Doughy scents of lemon curd, straw and chalk are super fresh. Big, toasty flavors of lemon, lime, grains and yeast. Lots of grains in a close that is grounded by a fierce minerality. $65
91 Gaston Chiquet, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs d'Aÿ
Grand Cru, Vallée de la Marne
Yeasty scents of lemon, brioche, vanilla and flowers. Pronounced flavors of sweet citrus, brioche and chalk show off the wine's great balance. Apple appears in the finish. $47
90 Jean-Charles Milan, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Cuvée de Réserve, Côte des Blancs
Reserved scents of baked apple, citrus, vanilla and hay. An aged note yields to steely flavors of citrus peel, lime and minerals. Dry, compact close. $59
86 Jean-Charles Milan, NV Spécial Blanc de Blancs
Grand Cru, Côte des Blancs
Austere aromas of lemon and damp stone have an unusual pungency. Flavors of citrus, minerals and beer. Dry finish. $41
97 Krug, 1992 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Clos du Mesnil, Reims
Classic Krug aromas of baked apple, clarified butter, boiled crab shell, yeast and Sherry. Very intense flavors of stone fruit, apple, malt and Sherry. Long, winey close shows lots of citrusy freshness. $550
90 Larmandier-Bernier, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Premier Cru, Côte des Blancs
Sweet aromas of very ripe apple, moistened brioche, pecan and butter. Mature flavors of apple, cream, butter and vanilla are kept lively by a fino Sherry note. Aged, yeasty finish. $55
88 Larmandier-Bernier, NV Terre de Vertus
Côte des Blancs
Enticing aromas of lemon, clover honey and straw. Bracing, austere, Chablis-like flavors of grapefruit, green apple and minerals. Chalky close. $55
91 Louis Roederer, 1998 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Reims
Pronounced aromas of red apple, minerals, brioche and bread crumbs are seamlessly integrated. Juicy flavors of white grapefruit, apple, yeast and beer barrel. Tight, youthful finish. $71
91 Nicolas Feuillatte, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Premier Cru de Chardonnay, Épernay
Nicely oxidized aromas of apple cider, Sherry, butterscotch and malt are mature, but quite lively. Biscuity flavors of lemon, hops and malt have a beery freshness. Crisp close. $35
92 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, NV Blanc de Blancs
Premier Cru, Côte des Blancs
Subtle scents of lemon curd, ginger, bread dough and beer. Juicy flavors of apple, lemon, beer and ginger ale. Citrus and chalk highlight the finish. $46
92 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, 1999 Blanc de Blancs
Fleurons, Côte des Blancs
Rich aromas of lemon curd, apricot, bread dough and malt with a very inviting floral nuance. Frothy flavors of ripe lemon, buttery brioche and cinnamon toast with a serious flint note. Long, toasty close. $53
89 Pierre Peters, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Cuvée de Réserve, Côte des Blancs
Fresh, doughy aromas of lemon, apricot, mixed grains and butter. Toasty flavors of lemon-lime, sour apple, brioche and malt. Crisp, green finish. $47
90 Pierre Peters, 1998 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Cuvée Spéciale, Grand Cru, Mesnil-sur-Oger
Very mature, oxidized aromas of ripe apple, lemon, butter, flint and caramel. Aged, beery flavors of apple, lime peel and malt have riveting acidity. Smooth, toasty finish. $75
95 "S" Salon, 1995 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Malty, well-integrated aromas of apple, soda cracker, drawn butter and beer. Tangy, focused flavors of lemon, bread crumbs, biscuit and white bread. Yeasty close shows aged qualities. $225
95 Taittinger, 1995 Comtes de Champagne
Reims
Lovely, toasty aromas of apple, fresh bread, straw and biscuit are balanced by a steely mineral note. Quite fresh and tangy flavors of lemon, apple and white flowers. Delicate finish artfully laced with chalk and minerals. $140
88 Varnier-Fannière, NV Brut
Côte des Blancs
Earthy, herbal aromas of kiwi, lime peel and chalk with a hint of cedar. Foamy flavors of green apple, white grapefruit and chalk are quite clean if a bit biting. Softens up somewhat in the close. $47
Prestige NV & Vintage
95 Aubry de Humbert, 1998 Brut
Premier Cru, Reims
Full out, yeasty, buttery aromas of apricot, baked apple, malt, dough and beer with a bare floral note. Creamy, balanced, mature flavors of ripe strawberry, peach, apple, flint and beer. Maltiness continues in the expansive finish. $65
96 Bollinger, 1995 Extra Brut R.D.
Aÿ
Sherried, malty, buttery aromas of baked apple, cinnamon dough and pecan have an almost briny freshness and verve. Very rich, intense flavors of baked apple, orange, beer barrel and butter are multi-layered. Long, citrusy finish. $200
94 Chartogne-Taillet, 1999 Cuvée Fiacre
Montagne de Reims
Clean, if shy scents of red berry, dried orange and straw with a forest floor note. Beery, oxidized flavors of apricot marmalade, raspberry and chalk with hints of citrus. Focused close amplified by steely acidity. $65
96 Krug, MV Brut Grande Cuvée
Reims
Intense, integrated aromas of apricot, orange cream, clarified butter, malt, nutmeg and boiled crab shell. Toasty, well-charred flavors of stone fruit, orange peel, buttered bread and lots of malt are a great example of Krug's deftly composed heftiness. Long, deliberate finish. $125
93 Laurent-Perrier, MV Brut Cuvée Grand Siècle
Tours-sur-Marne
Chalky, flinty aromas of red berry, apple, toast and smoke. Very lively, foamy flavors of green apple and tangerine. Quite nervy close. $80
96 Louis Roederer, 1999 Brut Cristal
Reims
Bold, winey aromas of Sherried apple, beer, minerals and butter. Explosive flavors of strawberry, apple and pilsner beer are weighty, juicy and balanced. Sweet finish features telltale apple and an exotic brown spice notes. $185
94 Moët & Chandon, 1998 Dom Pérignon
Épernay
Uplifting scents of apple blossom, bread crumbs, straw and yeast. Vibrant, toasty flavors of green apple, lemon zest and a touch of vanilla have laser-like focus. Closes cleanly and sweetly. $175
93 Nicolas Feuillatte, 1996 Brut Cuvée Palmes d'Or
Épernay
Floral aromas of red berry, apple, yeast and biscuit with a vanilla note. Intensely fruity flavors of tart raspberry, citrus, flint and minerals. Sweet-tart finish balanced by peach and citrus. $130
94 Perrier Jouët, 1998 Brut Fleur de Champagne
Épernay
Lightly floral aromas of green apple, ginger, white bread and honey. Creamy flavors of baked apple, butter and pilsner beer show a nicely maturing disposition. Frothy, yeasty close. $130
95 Philipponnat, 1992 Brut Clos des Goisses
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Aged, though very lively aromas of macerated apple, vanilla extract, beer and butter. Oily, buttery, highly stylized flavors of apple, raspberry, peach, tobacco and hazelnut. Long, warm, inviting finish. $125
97 Pol Roger, 1995 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill
Épernay
Chalk-strewn aromas of lemon, apple, white flowers and bread dough with a charred note. Creamy flavors of baked apple, ginger ale, beer and sweet dough are even more expressive than the bouquet. Apple and orange lace the lingering close. $196
93 Pommery, 1995 Brut Cuvée Louise
Reims
Nutty aromas of apple, toast, clarified butter and yeast. Tangy, youthful flavors of green apple, brown spice and minerals show a light toastiness. Delicately austere finish. $160
92 Vilmart & Cie, 1997 Brut Coeur de Cuvée
Premier Cru, Marne
Subtle, perfumed scents of citrus, buttered toast and yeast. Tangy, flinty, crisp flavors of lemon zest, clarified butter and Sherry. Closes on a bitter, nutty note. $111
Rosé
NV, Vintage & Prestige
91 Besserat de Bellefon, NV Brut Rosé
Cuvée des Moines, Épernay
Very fresh aromas of red berry, apricot, banana peel, caramel and chalk. Softly Sherried flavors of citrus, chalk and flint have a youthful tang. Baked apple emerges in the finish. $45
91 Billecart-Salmon, NV Brut Rosé
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Subtle scents of red berry, orange and butter with a yeast note. Balanced flavors of raspberry, apple, mixed grains and chalk. Delicate close. $50
90 Delamotte, NV Brut Rosé
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Flinty aromas of red berry, apple and cedar show a subtle toastiness. Creamy, though quite dry flavors of orange zest and apple are framed by softish acidity. Finish balanced by sweet fruit. $70
95 Deutz, 1999 Brut Rosé
Aÿ
Mature aromas of raspberry, cherry, chalk and honey feature a perfect dose of oxidation. Seamlessly integrated flavors of lemon, cherry and brioche. Minerally close highlighted by dried fruit notes. $74
90 G.H. Mumm, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Toasty aromas of strawberry, orange zest, smoke and chalk. Juicy flavors of red berry, citrus and cream. Bushels of cherry in the finish. $52
93 Gosset, NV Brut Grand Rosé
Aÿ
Explosive aromas of cherry, banana, orange and bread dough. Ample flavors of strawberry, cherry and honey are ripe and sweet without being sugary, and kept in line by a green apple tang. Lots of red fruit in the big close. $70
96 Krug, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Very fragrant aromas of apricot, ginger, clove and bread dough with a vanilla note. Flavors of baked apple, citrus, ginger, malt and clove are recognizably Krug in style. Long, intense finish ably combines fruit and baking spice. $275
94 Laurent-Perrier, 1997 Grand Siécle Alexandra
Tours-sur-Marne
Charred aromas of orange peel, vanilla, dried tobacco and chalk. Tangy flavors of apple, dried cherry, nutmeg and malt have a pronounced flintiness. Chalky close should soften with age. $95
89 Laurent-Perrier, NV Brut Cuvée Rosé
Tours-sur-Marne
Light scents of cherry, brioche and white flowers. Foamy flavors of orange, red fruit and vanilla show a woodsy nuance. Finish dominated by citrus peel. $50
95 Louis Roederer, 1996 Brut Cristal Rosé
Reims
Apple aromas fly from the glass and offer a prelude to notes of orange zest, brown spice and freshly baked bread. Ample flavors of baked apple, citrus, butterscotch, chalk and flint. Lingering finish is quite youthful and packed with citrus. $334
94 Louis Roederer, 1999 Brut Vintage Rosé
Reims
Yeasty aromas of red berry, sweet brioche and biscuit have an oxidized nuance. Vibrant flavors of lemon, apple, sliced orange, brioche and flint. Lively, layered close loaded with creamy fruit. $71
91 Moët & Chandon, 1999 Brut Millésime Rosé
Épernay
Slow-to-open aromas of candied red fruit, orange zest, honey and dough. Soft, weighty flavors of stone fruit, apple and flint. Fleshy finish sports a hint of brown sugar. $65
91 Moët & Chandon, NV Brut Impérial Rosé
Épernay
Aromas of apple, apricot and cherry are wonderfully subtle and not overdone in the face of so much ripe fruit. Intensely focused, spicy flavors of cherry, green apple and cream. Just-picked berries in the sweet-tart close. $40
94 Moët & Chandon, 1995 Dom Pérignon Rosé
Épernay
Deftly meshed aromas of red berry, Sherry, baking spice and beer. Balanced, toasty flavors of apricot, cherry, strawberry, beer and cream. Finishes with a chalky, cleansing fruitiness. $375
91 Nicolas Feuillatte, NV Brut Rosé
Premier Cru, Épernay
Pungent aromas of banana pudding, cherry juice, ginger cookie and smoke. Beery flavors of raspberry, cherry and cream are kept fresh by minerally acidity. Woodsy close. $40
88 Nicolas Feuillate, 1999 Cuvée Palmes d'Or Rosé
Épernay
Still Pinot aromas of black cherry, forest floor, moist tobacco and wet stone. Flavors of mixed berries, rhubarb and earth. Slightly astringent finish. $180
91 Perrier Jouët, NV Brut Blason Rosé
Épernay
Mature, though lively aromas of cherry blossom, peach, honeyed grains and yeast. Beautifully balanced flavors of red berry, citrus peel, orange and toast. Lasting close. $76
92 Perrier Jouët, 1999 Fleur de Champagne Rosé
Épernay
Subtle scents of orange peel, pink grapefruit, yeast and minerals. Crisp, beery flavors of red berry, orange, grapefruit and minerals show off the wine's great balance. Cedar notes creep into the close. $170
91 Philipponnat, NV Brut Réserve Rosée
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Perfumed aromas of red berry, peach, dough and yeast. Crisp flavors of apple, orange and beer are pleasantly softened by a vanilla note. Cleansing red fruit finish. $45
88 Piper-Heidsieck, NV Brut Rosé Sauvage
Reims
Polished aromas of red cherry, orange and tea with a vanilla note. Grapefruit acidity frames flavors of strawberry, cranberry and tea. Zingy close. $45
93 Pol Roger, 1998 Brut Rosé
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
Classic, oxidized aromas of bright red berry, brown sugar and bread dough. Focused flavors of buttered apple, candied fruit, strawberry and bread dough balanced by citrusy acidity. Sweet, fruity close. $88
88 Pommery, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Toasty scents of red berry, orange peel and chalk. Tangy flavors of apricot, citrus and cedar. Dry close. $60
97 Taittinger, 1999 Comtes de Champagne Rosé
Reims
Doughy aromas of apple, cherry compote, flint and yeast are as exquisite as they are big and bold. An almost perfect combination of flavors includes strawberry jam, orange, honey, malt, flint and nuts. Lasting, sweet finish overflows with red fruit. $200
92 Veuve Clicquot, 1999 Brut Rosé Réserve
Reims
Perfumed aromas of apricot, fruitcake, sweet bread dough, honey and toasted bread crumbs. Creamy flavors of orange, candied red fruit and honeyed nuts. Tangy close marked by a banana peel note. $70
94 Vilmart & Cie, 1998 Brut Grand Cellier Rubis
Reims
Malty aromas of apricot, fruitcake, just-baked bread and butterscotch. Sherry leads flavors of candied cherry, orange, brown spice and yeast. Intense, buttery finish. $100
Spain
NV Brut Cava
87 Bertha, NV Brut Reserva
Sant Sadurní d'Anoia
Attractive bouquet of apple butter, honey, Sherry and clove. Good weight and structure impart flavors of apricot, peach and pecan. Dry, chalky finish shows a lick of nutmeg. $22
87 Freixenet, NV Brut Carta Nevada
Sant Sadurní d'Anoia
Fresh aromas of citrus, vanilla, honey and sliced apple. Frothy entry with ripe honeydew flavors followed by ginger notes. Medium-sweet close. $9
86 Freixenet, NV Brut de Noirs
Sant Sadurní d'Anoia
Bright cherry and strawberry aromas with an earthy note. Sweet, creamy flavors of strawberry, gum drop and honeydew. Cotton candy-like finish. $10
87 Segura Viudas, NV Brut Reserva
Sant Sadurní d'Anoia
Fresh brioche aromas with a note of brine. Sugar-coated tropical fruit flavors have a well-defined creaminess. Sweet, stylized close. $10
85 Freixenet, NV Cordon Negro Brut
Sant Sadurní d'Anoia
$10
About the BuyLine Panel: More than 100 wines are reviewed in every issue of Wine News. All wines are tasted double-blind and each entry is evaluated and scored based upon individual merit. Wines that score above 70 points are recommended in the BuyLine. Tasting and interpreting wine is a purely subjective exercise; all scores and accompanying tasting notes represent the collective opinions of our panel.
Wine Samples: Send samples for review with retail price affixed to:
Wine News BuyLine Tasting Panel
1501 Venera Avenue, Suite 320
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Telephone: 305.740.7170
The Panel: Maurice Adams, specialty food and wine merchant; Lyn Farmer, senior staff columnist; Abraham Horowitz, BuyLine panelist; Tom E. Smith, publisher; John Stroker, BuyLine panelist; Fred Tasker, Miami Herald wine critic; Todd M. Wernstrom, executive editor.
Scoring: Tasting notes reflect the panel's collective impressions; scores are averaged and represent the panel's mean. Wines possessing certain criteria will be singled out for special recognition:
Taster's Choice: Wines which display outstanding quality, character and potential.
Best Value Wines of exceptional quality which sell at a moderate price.
Stemware: Riedel Ouverture tasting glasses.
Pricing: Prices vary from state to state. Retail prices listed are approximate.
