A splash of pomegranate syrup and a sprinkling of plump, juicy seeds, or “arils,” in a non-vintage sparkler enliven an already festive moment. PHOTO: COURTESY OF POM WONDERFUL
	Pomegranates on parade By Carole Kotkin
		"May you have as many successes as the seeds of a pomegranate," Ann Kleinberg writes in the introduction of her recently published collection, Pomegranates. That this New Yorker-cum-Israeli food writer makes a metaphor to the fruit sound like a lofty benediction is no accident: References to pomegranates are found in the religion, art and literature of ancient civilizations ranging from the Egyptians (who fermented the juice into wine) to the Chinese. In these cultures, the fruit's wealth of seeds - each pomegranate is said to have 613, the number of commandments in the Torah - made them a natural symbol of fertility. Greek mythology attributes the cycle of the seasons to the goddess Persephone's weakness for pomegranates, and even today, Sephardic Jews retain the ritual of opening a pomegranate during Rosh Hashana to predict if the New Year will be a fertile one for family members. Some religious scholars even believe that the fruit Eve plucked from the Tree of Knowledge to tempt Adam in the Garden of Eden was not an apple at all, but a pomegranate. Derived from the Middle French, pomme garnete, meaning seeded apple, pomegranates are also called Chinese apples. They actually belong, however, to the berry family. Their red, round, leathery-skinned globes conceal glistening ruby kernels, called arils, snugly tucked into a maze of paper thin, ivory, honeycomb-like membranes. Bursting with sweet-tart juice and encasing a tiny, crunchy seed, the arils are the edible part of the fruit; the bitter membranes and outer skin are discarded. The flavor profile of the aril's juice - as well as the entire aril - brightens the earth tones of winter foods during the fruit's short season. Chefs across the country have embraced the versatile pomegranate as a flavoring ingredient, and are finding the fruit surprisingly companionable with wine, too. "They are a delightful addition to all kinds of delicacies, whether used as a garnish, as a drink or in concentrated syrup form as an integral part of a dish's composition," notes Dante Boccuzzi, executive chef at Aureole in New York City. "They're great in a sauce with foie gras; they have just the right acidic bite." No one is certain where pomegranates originated, but they are thought to be native to ancient Persia (now Iran). What is known is that the Moors took it from northern Africa to Spain, where 13 varieties now prosper. The heavy fruit grows on an extremely long-lived tree - some reach 200 years in age - that flourishes in warm climates, and blooms with large, orange-red or white flowers. One of the oldest known edible fruits, pomegranates are harvested by hand throughout the Mediterranean, the Middle East, and portions of North, Central and South America. Spanish sailors brought the pomegranate to the New World in 1521 and Jesuit missionaries later carried it north to California in the late 1700s. Although pomegranates are staples in Middle Eastern cultures, until recently in this country they've mostly been eaten out of hand or used decoratively. It's only in the last few years that interest in their culinary possibilities, both sweet and savory, has grown. Our newfound passion coincides with our expanding definition of Mediterranean cuisine, which now encompasses dishes from countries such as Egypt and Morocco, where pomegranates were one of the first widely cultivated foods. Recent reports extolling the pomegranate's health benefits have also played roles in ushering the fruit onto our collective table. Happily, pomegranate seeds and juice contain high levels of disease-fighting antioxidants (higher proportionately than in other fruits, red wine or green tea); they are also packed with vitamins C and E and are thought to possess heart healthy properties as well. In addition, Kleinberg notes that the fruit could "in the not-too-distant future be helpful in breast cancer treatment and hormone replacement therapy." And, she adds, "Even the cosmetic[s] industry has exploited the astringent properties of the pomegranate, using it in soaps, shampoos, body scrubs and creams." Michael Schwartz, executive chef of afterglo restaurant in Miami Beach, is especially fond of the fruit's beneficial properties, as well as its bright taste. He serves "Beauty Cuisine," based on foods that boast a low glycemic index rating, are anti-inflammatory and deliver high alkalinity, lots of minerals, enzymes and energy nutrients. "I love the fact that pomegranates are high in antioxidants. I soak chia seeds that are high in omega 3 fatty acids in pomegranate juice. The seeds absorb the juice and form a jelly. The color and texture are terrific in a salad geared to brain power," he says. Called "A Beautiful Mind," that cornucopia comprises baby romaine lettuce tossed with blueberries, walnuts, Brazil nuts, organic sun-dried goji berries and Thai coconut meat, and is garnished with pomegranate-chia seed jelly and ground raw cacao in a rosemary, ginko and gotu kola vinaigrette. Schwartz also serves a Middle Eastern dip for flat breads made with yogurt cheese, pomegranate seeds and a drizzle of pomegranate molasses. When it comes to wine pairing, in addition to the health benefits shared with wine, "Pomegranates are acidic, too," Schwartz notes, "and I like to counteract that acidity with wines like a jammy Zinfandel." Make that a California Zinfandel, of course. It just so happens that the wine's provenance would be similar to that of the pomegranate's in an afterglo dish. Because of a ban on pomegranate imports, California has a virtual lock on the U.S. market. According to Tom Tjerandsen, director of the San Francisco-based Pomegranate Council, there are 250 growers in California producing 80 percent of the domestic pomegranate crop on 14,000 acres, mostly in the central and southern San Joaquin Valley. "About 80 percent of the crop is consumed in the United States; the rest is exported to Japan, Mexico, Canada and other countries," he notes. Not only are growers devoting more acreage to the festive, ruby-colored fruit, but they're starting to identify the product by variety, of which numerous abound, such as Early Foothill, Granada and Early Wonderful, all sweet, early-season varieties packed by the Simonian Fruit Company in Fowler, California. Unlike wine grapes, however, the variety has nothing to do with taste. "Rather, it has to do with extending the season, because different varieties come on early or late," says grower David Simonian, who has been farming pomegranates commercially for 30 years. "But it's the Wonderful pomegranate that you're most likely to find." So popular is it that the POM Wonderful company, the largest grower of pomegranates in the United States, borrowed its name and has since met with huge success in the marketplace. According to company spokeswoman, Fiona Posell, "As interest in the health benefits of pomegranates grew, so did the demand." POM's president, Lynda Resnick, recognized a need, filled it and the firm has subsequently flourished. As did its capabilities - POM has spent some $10 million in research grants and is currently extending $5 million more into the health field, and the agricultural enterprise is now entering its fourth season of harvesting Wonderful pomegranates and its third year of selling bottled juice. "There was no pomegranate juice on the market at the time, plus we took away the laborious task of juicing for the consumer," Posell explains. The agreeably astringent, deep burgundy juices, plain or flavored with mango, tangerine, cherry or blueberry, are now sold in produce departments at grocers across the country. Aureole's Boccuzzi recalls the days before bottled pomegranate juice was available: "We had one cook whose messy job it was to juice pomegranates. No matter what juicing technique he used, he would end up splattered in scarlet. Eventually, he covered his whole body with plastic garbage bags for protection." In addition to using fresh pomegranates every fall, Boccuzzi likes to experiment with pomegranate molasses, juice and syrup all year long. (These products are available at Middle Eastern markets and some supermarkets, and Kleinberg includes recipes for homemade versions in her book as well.) For example, he makes a captivating pomegranate salsa with the seeds and juice, toasted garlic, fresh ginger, lemon zest, olive oil and pomegranate molasses, and serves it over grilled meat, fish and poultry. He also employs the seeds "as a final touch" to an endive, arugula and grilled halibut salad. At Farallon in San Francisco, executive chef Parke Ulrich also enjoys adding pomegranates to his seasonal repertoire. Intriguing among his first course treatments is sashimi topped with "pomegranate caviar," a mound of chilled arils added for a burst of flavor. He experiments with frozen pomegranate juice, reducing it to achieve an intense, tart-sweet flavor that forms the perfect foil for broiled and butterflied local sardines. Ulrich then translates the reduction into a bordelaise-style sauce for roasted duck breast fanned over celery root purée and served with sautéed Brussels sprouts. He notes that for the same reason that a Côte-Rôtie or Pinot Noir pairs nicely with the dish, "the fruity tannins of pomegranate juice work well with the richness of the duck breast." Because of the pomegranate's very eno-esque tannic and acidic traits, it stands to reason that wine lovers will also enjoy pomegranate juice solo as a health drink, or mixed in a refreshing cocktail. POM Wonderful's Posell notes that, "America's foremost mixologist, Dale DeGroff, developed some cocktails using pomegranate juice for us - crimson cosmopolitans to magenta margaritas - including a POMtini that was the official drink of the 2004 Oscars. After that, it was hard to keep up with the demand." Author Ann Kleinberg suggests a simpler - and merrier - way to sample this ancient fruit: "Pop open a bottle of sparkling wine, pour into [flutes] and drop in a few [chilled] pomegranate seeds for a fun way to start off an evening with friends." Food Editor Carole Kotkin manages the Ocean Reef Club Cooking School in Key Largo; is a syndicated columnist for KnightRidder; is co-author of Mmmmiami; and co-hosts Food & Wine Talk on WDNA FM. Yogurt & Pomegranate Dip From Chef Michael Schwartz of afterglo 1 ripe pomegranate 2 cups Greek yogurt* 2 scallions finely minced 1/4 cup cilantro leaves 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses Mint sprigs for garnish Cut the pomegranate in half across the equator, then gently lift out the seeds, section by section, and set aside in a bowl, discarding any discolored parts. You don't want the seeds to "bleed" their juices into the yogurt, so try not to bruise or break them. In a medium stainless or glass bowl, gently combine the yogurt, scallion, cilantro and all but a small handful of the pomegranate seeds. Turn the mixture out into a decorative bowl, drizzle with the pomegranate molasses, sprinkle the remaining seeds and garnish with the mint sprigs. Serve with wedges of pita bread or any flatbread. Makes 21/2 cups *Greek yogurt is available in specialty food stores and is preferred for its extra-thick consistency. If you can't find it, substitute any whole milk yogurt and thicken it by hanging it in a double layer of cheesecloth in the refrigerator for 4 hours or until most of the water has dripped out. Bruschetta with Goat Cheese, Red Onion and Pomegranate Salsa From Pomegranates by Ann Kleinberg 6 slices sourdough bread 3 tablespoons olive oil 6 tablespoons goat cheese 1/2 cup pomegranate seeds 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced 1/2 jalapeño chili, seeded and finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped, fresh flat leaf parsley leaves 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil leaves 1 lemon zest, grated 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper Preheat broiler. Brush bread slices on both sides with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Arrange bread on baking tray and place under broiler. Toast, turning once, until both sides are golden. Remove from broiler and spread 1 tablespoon goat cheese on each toast. Combine remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil with pomegranate seeds, onion, chile, parsley, basil, lemon zest and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper; toss gently. Spoon mixture on top of toasts. Serves 3 to 4 Parsley Salad with Feta, Almonds and Pomegranates From Pomegranates by Ann Kleinberg 3 cups fresh flat leaf parsley leaves 1/2 cup almond slivers 2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled 3/4 cup pomegranate seeds 2 tablespoons canola oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons pomegranate juice 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tablespoon cider vinegar 1 clove garlic, crushed 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon sugar Pinch of chili powder Place parsley leaves in a serving bowl. Add almonds, feta and pomegranate seeds; toss. Combine all oils, juices, vinegar, garlic, salt, sugar and chili powder in a capped cruet and shake well. Drizzle over salad and toss. Serves 2 to 3 Seared Salmon Fillets with Pomegranate Sherry Glaze From Pomegranates by Ann Kleinberg 2 tablespoons sesame oil 6 salmon fillets, with skin on, 1" thick 1/4 cup white wine 3 teaspoons soy sauce Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2/3 cup freshly squeezed orange juice 1/3 cup pomegranate juice 3 tablespoons Sherry 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves 1 teaspoon orange zest 1/2 teaspoon peeled and grated fresh ginger 3/4 cup pomegranate seeds Fresh mint leaves, for garnish Preheat oven to 400°. Heat sesame oil in a skillet over very high heat. Add salmon fillets and sear quickly, turning once, for about 1 minute on each side. Remove from heat and transfer to a baking pan. Combine wine and soy sauce in a small bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper. Drizzle over salmon fillets and bake for 10 minutes. In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, stir together orange juice, pomegranate juice, Sherry, basil, orange zest and ginger. Cook until liquid is reduced by half and thickens into a sauce. Add half the pomegranate seeds, stir and cook for 1 minute longer. Remove from heat. Divide remaining pomegranate seeds among individual plates (add more, if desired) and place salmon fillets on top. Drizzle with sauce and garnish with fresh mint leaves. Serves 6 Pork Tenderloin Medallions with Pomegranate Salsa Verde From Chef Dante Boccuzzi of Aureole 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 teaspoon minced ginger 1 tablespoon finely chopped chives 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon finely chopped chervil 1 tablespoon finely chopped tarragon 1 teaspoon lemon zest 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons pomegranate syrup 2 tablespoons pomegranate seeds Salt and pepper to taste 1 12-ounce pork tenderloin cut into 6 2-ounce medallions In a small saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon oil. Add garlic and ginger and cook until lightly browned. Set aside and cool. Add chopped herbs, zest, oil, pomegranate syrup and seeds. Combine and season to taste. Season the pork with salt and pepper. In a large sauté pan, heat remaining tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat. Sear pork on both sides (about 4 to 5 minutes each side) until golden brown. Let rest, then plate and garnish with salsa. Serves 2 Roasted Duck Breast with Pomegranate Jus From Chef Parke Ulrich of Farallon 1 cup coarsely chopped shallots 1/4 cup coarsely chopped garlic 11/2 cups Cabernet Sauvignon 11/2 cups Merlot 11/2 cups Ruby Port 4 cups pomegranate juice 1 bunch thyme 1/2 gallon duck stock 1 large celery root, peeled and quartered 2 cups heavy cream 6 8- to 10-ounce duck breasts 5 cups blanched Brussels sprout halves 2 cups bacon lardon 1/4 cup pomegranate seeds In a heavy-bottom sauce pan, sweat shallots over low heat until they begin to caramelize. Add garlic and continue to cook. Deglaze with wine and reduce by half. Add pomegranate juice and one bunch thyme. Reduce to 11/2 cups. In another sauce pan, reduce duck stock to 1/4. When finished add reduced stock to the sauce base. Season to taste and strain through a chinois. In a heavy-bottom sauce pan, place the celery root with cream and cover with water if needed. Simmer for 45 minutes or until tender. Strain and purée, adding the cooking liquid as needed. Season with salt and pepper. The purée should be the consistency of very soft mashed potatoes. In a sauté pan, season duck breast and place over low heat skin side down. Render fat and crisp the skin for approximately 10 minutes. Place on a sheet pan with a rack and cook at 350° for 10 minutes until medium rare. Sauté Brussels sprouts with bacon and one bunch chopped thyme until lightly browned. Season to taste. Place atop celery root purée. Ladle sauce around the purée. Place duck breast on top; garnish with pomegranate seeds. Serves 6 Panna Cotta with Mixed Berry & Pomegranate Coulis From Pomegranates by Ann Kleinberg 1 cup milk 1 tablespoon (1 envelope) unflavored gelatin 2 cups whipping cream 1/2 cup sugar 11/2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 cup Mixed Berry and Pomegranate Coulis (recipe below) 1/2 cup pomegranate seeds, for garnish Pour 1/2 cup of milk into a small saucepan and sprinkle with gelatin. Let stand for 3 minutes to soften. Set over low heat and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes, until gelatin dissolves. Stir in remaining 1/2 cup milk, cream, sugar and vanilla. Increase heat to medium and cook just until it starts to steam (do not let it boil). Remove from heat, cover and let stand about 15 minutes. Pour mixture into 8 ramekins. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 5 hours. To serve, set each ramekin in a shallow bowl of hot water for 2 to 3 seconds. Slide a knife around the edge of panna cotta to loosen it from dish. Cover with a plate and invert - the panna cotta should slip right out. (Tap with back of a spoon if necessary.) Spoon Berry and Pomegranate Coulis on top of the panna cotta. Garnish with pomegranate seeds. Serves 8 For the Mixed Berry & Pomegranate Coulis: 1/2 cup pomegranate juice 1/2 cup dry red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon 3 tablespoons sugar 1 cinnamon stick, 1" long 2 tablespoons crème de cassis 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 3 cups frozen mixed berries Combine pomegranate juice, wine, sugar and cinnamon stick in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, then decrease to a simmer and cook until liquid is reduced by half. Add crème de cassis, lemon juice, vanilla and frozen berries. Cook just until berries are thawed, then remove from heat. Let cool, cover and refrigerate until ready to use. The coulis can be reheated or served cold. Makes 2 1/2 cups Caramelized Autumn Squash in Maple, Vanilla, and Pomegranate Molasses from Chef Dante Boccuzzi of Aureole 5-6 acorn or Sweet Dumpling squash 4 ounces corn or vegetable oil 4 ounces butter, softened 1 cup maple syrup 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 1 cup pomegranate molasses 1/4 teaspoon coriander, toasted and ground 1 pomegranate, seeds removed Salt and pepper to taste Pre-heat oven to 350°. Wash squash and cut into 12 1" rings leaving the skin intact. Scoop out seeds from each ring, rinse and pat dry. Toss squash seeds in 1/2 ounce of oil and season with salt, pepper, and coriander seed. On a non-stick baking pan lay out the seeds evenly and toast in 350° oven until golden brown (4-5 minutes). Cool and reserve. Heat 1/2 ounce of oil in a large, heavy-bottomed sauté pan over medium high heat. Sauté squash rings (3-4 pieces at a time) to a deep, golden brown color. Reserve pan for later use but drain of excess oil. Place sautéed squash in an ovenproof baking dish. Add maple syrup and pomegranate molasses to the large sauté pan and return in back to the heat. When syrup comes to a boil whisk in butter and season with salt and pepper. Spoon mixture over each squash ring, making sure each piece is evenly coated. Cover baking dish with aluminum foil and bake for approximately 30 minutes or until flesh is tender when pierced with a knife. Remove squash from baking dish and arrange on serving platter. Pour excess liquid from baking dish into a small pan. Bring to a boil and whisk in pomegranate seeds. Spoon this sauce over baked squash rings and garnish with toasted seeds. Serves ?? - CK

	home • cover story • commentary • feature • buyline past issues • writers • subscribe
	Wine News P.O. Box 14-2096 Coral Gables, FL 33114 Telephone: 305.740.7170 Fax: 305.740.7153