Wine Reviews from Wine News
tasters' choice selections
97 Bollinger, 1999 Grande Année Brut Rosé
Aÿ
Huge, intense aromas of orange cream, baked cherry, Sherry, bread dough, cinnamon and lots of other brown spices show remarkable harmony amid such diversity. Beautifully balanced, weighty flavors of dried orange peel, apricot, Sherry, malt and nutmeg. Doughy notes soften the otherwise crisp close. $180 / 125 imported cases
97 Krug, 1995 Brut
Reims
Buttery, malty, beery aromas of apricot, baked apple and brown spice are astonishingly deep-seated. Fresh, winey flavors of red berries, citrus, apple tart, brown butter and dry toast are meaty and lasting. Finish unfolds slowly and deliberately, showing ample fruit and spice. $200 / 2,000 imported cases
96 Louis Roederer, 2000 Brut Rosé
Reims
Lots of oak char notes yield to scents of apricot, sliced apple, honey, beer and flint, all of which are deftly integrated and lightly toasted. Supple, ripe flavors of cherry, apple, strawberry jam, flint and honey. Plenty of apple and chalk in the endless close. $74 / 965 imported cases
best value selections
90 Schramsberg, NV Brut Mirabelle
North Coast
Big, buttery aromas of baked apple, lemon curd, nutmeg, malt and bread dough. A whiff of buttered toast leads to balanced flavors of citrus, white flowers and butterscotch. Citrusy, nutty finish refuses to fade. $19 / 15,076 cases
90 Chandon, NV Reserve Brut
Napa-Sonoma Counties
Floral, doughy aromas of banana peel, mixed nuts, beer, brioche and Sherry. Foursquare, Champagne-like flavors of lemon, red berries, butterscotch and malt have ample (not painful) acidity. Malt and honey notes dress up the close. $25 / 6,000 cases
90 Roederer Estate, NV Brut
Anderson Valley
A mix of mineral and baked bread aromas. Fresh citrus with a doughy accent laced through the flavors. Very fresh, classic brut style with a zing of youthful acidity spicing up the finish. $24 / 85,000 cases
publisher's pick
94 Charles Heidsieck, NV Brut Réserve
Reims
Honeyed, charred aromas with hints of Sherry and nutmeg. Creamy texture with bread dough and toast flavors with a lick of mixed grains. Excellent length and staying power make for a memorable quaff at a remarkable price. $40 / 5,000+ imported cases
California
Brut NV & Vintage
91 Briceland Vineyards, NV Brut
Humbolt County
Mature scents of baked apple, citrus, oak char and malt show lots of class. Weighty, yeasty flavors of mixed berries, lemon curd, flint, Sherry and lots of beer. Dry, crisp, flinty finish. $39
87 Chandon, NV Brut Classic
California
Perfumed aromas of apple, yeast and slate have a slight herbal essence. Frothy flavors of apple juice and lemon peel show lots of crispness. Clean, straight-ahead close. $20
90 Domaine Carneros, 2003 Brut
Carneros
Minerally fresh aromas of lemon blossom, red apple and wheat. Dry, crisp flavors of lemon peel and mixed grains have palate-soothing texture. Nutty finish. $25
86 Gloria Ferrer, NV Brut
Sonoma County
Reserved scents of citrus, minerals and straw. Foamy flavors of apple and beer are delivered by way of searing acidity. Sweetens up in the close. $18
88 Gloria Ferrer, 1997 Brut Reserve
Royal Cuvée, Carneros
Dry aromas of lemon, chalk and white flowers. Foamy flavors of pineapple and raspberry. Tingly finish continues the zesty theme. $28
88 Iron Horse, 2001 Classic Vintage Brut
Sonoma County, Green Valley
Pretty scents of baked apricot, yeast and pilsner beer. Flavors of green apple, sour apple and straw could be a bit rounder. Bone-dry close. $30
86 Korbel, NV Brut
California
Yeasty aromas of orange peel, red berries and lemon. Creamy, beery flavors of juicy apple and honey are just a tad sweet. Dries out nicely in the finish. $14
88 Korbel, NV Natural
Russian River Valley
Complex, minerally aromas of citrus, wheat and white flowers. A beery note adds heft to flavors of grapefruit, peach and butternut. Bracing acidity shows up in the finish. $18
89 Mumm Napa, NV Brut Prestige
Napa Valley
Toasty aromas of apple, white peach, pecan and mixed grains. Dry, tangy, sizable flavors of lemon peel, lime and caramel with a Sherry note. Tart close concludes with a brown sugar flourish. $18
89 Mumm Napa, NV Reserve Brut
Napa Valley
Forward, flinty aromas of baked apple, lemon, wheat, flowers and honey. Focused flavors of apple, citrus, malt and minerals. A Sherry note lifts the finish. $25
92 Schramsberg, 2000 Brut Reserve
Napa, Mendocino, Sonoma, Marin Counties
Very yeasty, buttery aromas of baked apple, peach and hazelnut are beautifully integrated. Mature, well-put-together flavors of stone fruit, lemon pie, brown butter and yeast are quite creamy, yet quite vibrant as well. Long close features Sherry notes. $80
83 Cook's, NV Brut
California - $7
82 Cook's, NV Grand Reserve
California - $7
Blanc de Blancs
NV & Vintage
88 Cottonwood Canyon, 2000 Blanc de Blancs
Santa Maria Valley
Sweet aromas of butternut and caramel. Mixed flavors of yeast, malt and nutmeg with an aged nuance. Doughy, sweet finish has a lemony tang. $49
87 Gloria Ferrer, 2003 Blanc de Blancs
Carneros
A lightly toasted bouquet of minerals and bread dough. Zesty lemon-lime flavors with youthful, nearly stinging acidity. The close softens and sweetens with a pleasant creaminess. $24
91 Iron Horse, 1998 Blanc de Blancs
Sonoma County, Green Valley
Shy aromas of yeast, minerals and sliced green apple. Fresh and clean with peach and apple cider flavors. Lively, balanced finish with ripe fruit and crisp acids in harmony. $34
90 Schramsberg, 2002 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Marin Counties
Rich aromas of vanilla frosting and barrel toast. Light, edgy flavors of lemon drop and chalk with a note of yeastiness. Rather tart, youthful close with plenty of citrus and crisp acids. $33
Blanc de Noirs
NV & Vintage
86 Gloria Ferrer, NV Blanc de Noirs
Sonoma County
Chalky scents with a good lick of vanilla extract. Butterscotch and lemon flavors have crisp acidity in the close. $18
86 Mumm Napa, NV Blanc de Noirs
Napa Valley
Pungent and earthy with a whiff of red fruit in the nose. Creamy orange and caramel flavors. Rather rich finish has a cherry juice sweetness. $18
85 Chandon, NV Blanc de Noirs
California - $18
Prestige Cuvée
90 Domaine Carneros, 2000 Le Rêve
Blanc de Blancs, Carneros
Forward aromas of banana, vanilla and lemon peel. Rich and creamy with chalk, vanilla and a lick of maple. While the finish is basically dry and crisp, there is a lingering sweetness that balances the tartness. $65
89 Domaine Chandon, NV Brut étoile
Sur Lees 2000, Napa-Sonoma Counties
Reserved aromas of citrus peel and flowers with a dusting of black truffle. Dry, foamy flavors of orange, straw, minerals and beer show enviable complexity. Continued beer notes perk up the close. $29
92 Iron Horse, 1996 LD Blanc de Blancs
Sonoma County, Green Valley
Aged, yeasty bouquet with bread dough, pecan and lemon peel aromas. Tart, citrusy apple flavors with just a hint of Sherry. Drying minerals and ripe tropical fruit cap the finish. $60
91 J Vineyard & Winery, 2001 Brut J
Russian River Valley
Reserved scents of apple, earth and yeast. Perks up in the mouth with vibrant, sizable flavors of lemon and cracked wheat, all framed by tingly acidity. Spicy close. $32
90 Mumm Napa, 1999 DVX
Napa Valley
Substantial aromas of pear, malt and wheat. Zesty flavors of apple, apricot syrup and fresh herbs. Beery finish shows a hint of caramel. $45
93 Roederer Estate, 1999 Brut L'Ermitage
Anderson Valley
Distinctive aged notes frame pronounced aromas of apple blossom, yeast and slate. Foamy, though substantial flavors of baked apple, yeast and beer. Oily, malty close shows the wine's heft. $49
95 Schramsberg, 1999 J. Schram
Napa, Mendocino, Monterey, Sonoma
Perfectly integrated aromas of apricot preserves, lemon peel, cherry, assorted breads and hazelnut are lightly honeyed. Very intense, exquisitely balanced flavors of lemon, buttered toast, beer and malt have lots of aged qualities but retain an unyielding freshness. Long, flinty finish. $80
Rosé
NV, Vintage & Prestige
94 Domaine Carneros, NV Brut Rosé
Carneros
Dainty, perfumed aromas of dried cherry, orange peel and apple with a cleansing minerality. Lush, though quite active flavors of orange, raspberry, tobacco and chalk. Dry, invigorating finish. $35
92 Domaine Chandon, NV étoile Rosé
Sur Lees 2001, Mendocino, Napa, Sonoma
Ripe, mixed aromas of cream, dough and orange zest. Crisp and tasty with fresh apricot and orange flavors. Lengthy close has a dried fruit tanginess. $34
88 Gloria Ferrer, 2003 Brut Rosé
Carneros
Candy apple scents with a secondary mineral expression. Creamy mouth-feel with apple, chalk and yeast flavors. Drying finish shows a continuation of the apple theme. $35
92 J Vineyard & Winery, NV Brut Rosé
Russian River Valley
Lively aromas of cherry and strawberry with hints of yeast. Crisp, yet delicate with strawberry and tangerine flavors. Lengthy close exhibits a defined freshness. $32
86 Korbel, NV Brut Rosé
California
Yeasty bread dough aromas with a hint of vanilla. Sweet strawberry flavors have balancing acidity. This is a straight-forward, pleasant quaff that finishes on a crisp, dry note. $11
92 Roederer Estate, NV Brut Rosé
Anderson Valley
Sweet, doughy aromas with hints of strawberry and brown spices. Fresh and tart with apricot and orange peel flavors. Dry, fruit-driven finish. $28
94 Roederer Estate, 1999 Brut L'Ermitage Rosé
Anderson Valley
Pungent bouquet of baguette and honey scents with a whiff of autolysis. Mature Golden apple flavors have a charred nuance. Lasting fruit impressions that turn creamy and caramel-like in the close. $72
95 Schramsberg, 1998 J. Schram Rosé
Napa, Mendocino, Monterey, Marin
Heady aromas of bread dough, toast, Sherry and banana peel. Soft entry displays a mix of tangerine and Sherry flavors with a wisp of toastiness. Acids are apparent, however, they are well melded and balance the lushness of the wine. $120
Washington
87 Domaine Ste. Michelle, NV Brut
Columbia Valley
Crisp scents of apple, lemon and mixed grains. Foamy, balanced flavors of pear and citrus are followed by a slight sweetness. That sweetness continues in the finish. $12
85 Domaine Ste. Michelle, NV Blanc de Blancs
Columbia Valley - $12
85 Domaine Ste. Michelle, NV Blanc de Noirs
Columbia Valley - $12
85 Domaine Ste. Michelle, 2000 Luxe
Columbia Valley - $23
France
Brut NV & Vintage
90 A. Margaine, NV Brut
Marne
Wet stone aromas with a defined bread dough note. Tart and fresh with lemon peel and dry, minerally flavors. Youthful, classic brut finish has a lingering toastiness. $42
91 Aubry, NV Brut
Premier Cru, Reims
Chalky, sweet aromas of banana peel, honey and toast. Upfront caramel and honey flavors laced with crisp acids. The follow-through is steely and minerally; however, it closes on a sweet note. $42
88 Besserat de Bellefon, NV Brut
Cuvée des Moines, Épernay
Pungent aromas of apricot, honeyed grains, char and mushroom. Big, vibrant flavors of lemon peel, grapefruit and straw. Tart, lemon-lime finish. $38
91 Billecart-Salmon, NV Brut Réserve
Mareuil-Sur-Aÿ
Lots of honey scents frame aromas of pineapple, apricot, chalk, yeast and brioche. Crisp, focused flavors of apple, orange marmalade, caramel and bread dough. Flint emerges in the dry finish. $45
94 Bollinger, NV Brut Special Cuvée
Aÿ
Layered aromas of stone fruit, baked apple, buttered bread, Sherry, honeyed grains and biscuit. Classic Bollinger; oily, rich flavors of apple cider, orange marmalade, red berries, beer, oak char and bread dough, all delivered by way of minerally acidity. Long, luscious, beery close. $40
96 Bollinger, 1997 Brut Grande Année
Aÿ
Very mature, big, layered aromas of browned apple, oak char, brown butter and nuts. Quite distinctive flavors of orange marmalade, red plum, butter and lots of Sherry show still wine character. Very winey, yeasty finish. $120
91 Bruno Paillard, NV Brut Première Cuvée
Reims
Clean, toasty aromas of stone fruit, grains, straw and minerals with a touch of vanilla. Malty, yeasty flavors of citrus, beer and chalk are food friendly. Aged notes in the dry, citrusy close. $45
91 Bruno Paillard, 1996 Brut Millésimé
Reims
Aged aromas of Sherry and nutmeg. Rich and juicy with balancing, crisp acidity. Finish is doughy and toasted with a lasting kiss of citrus peel. $67
94 Charles Heidsieck, 1985 Champagne Charlie
Reims
Forward, aged aromas of peanut brittle, pecan, beer barrel and toast. A die-hard vintage of Charlie that is showing some age, however, it is still a delight to taste. Lead by citrus and toast flavors with a lingering beery note that seems to be a thumbprint for any brut version of Charles Heidsieck. $120
90 Chartogne-Taillet, NV Brut
Cuvée Sainte-Anne, Merfy
Wheaty scents of stone fruit, malt and yeast are quite fetching. Dry, though creamy flavors of green apple, biscuit and flint are somewhat weighty. Sweetens up a tad in the finish. $42
87 Comte Audoin de Dampierre, NV Brut
Grande Cuvée, Avize
Dusty aromas of red apple, wheat and yeast have a slight toastiness. Tingly flavors of peach, rhubarb and minerals. Dries up in the close. $39
91 Comte Audoin de Dampierre, NV Brut
Cuvée Des Ambassadeurs, Avize
Pungent, flinty aromas of red berries, honeyed grains, sweet bread dough and minerals. Frothy flavors of lemon peel, lime and pilsner beer are quite juicy. Tart finish lightened by a bit of honey. $45
91 Delamotte, NV Brut
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Fresh, perfumed, doughy aromas of red apple, flint, chalk and vanilla. Rich, creamy flavors of lemon curd, peach, bread dough and flint. Bread dough theme sweetens up the close. $44
91 Deutz, NV Brut Classic
Aÿ
Fragrant bakery scents frame notes of apple, straw, butter and minerals. Mature, yeasty flavors of lemon, apple, hazelnut and brown butter are freshened by tingly acidity. Ginger and brioche in the finish. $51
90 Deutz, 1999 Brut
Aÿ
Very wheaty, fresh, briny aromas of light apple and citrus. Crisp flavors of green apple and dry cereal. Clean, quite minerally close. $72
92 Duval-Leroy, NV Brut
Premier Cru, Vertus
Forward aromas of yeast and chalk with a note of coffee bean. Hefty and full flavored emitting citrus, red fruit, nutmeg and malt flavors. Nice length with plenty of vanilla and toast. $35
86 Duval-Leroy, NV Brut Paris
Vertus
Mixed aromas of chalk, bakery scents, lime and wet stone. Frothy, cotton candy sweetness with a ginger accent. Ripe peach, pear and apricot flavors in the finish. $38
88 Duval-Leroy, 1996 Brut
Vertus
Fresh bread dough and vanilla aromas. Quite tart lemon-lime flavors have laser-like acidity. Dry finish with mineral and grapefruit notes. $48
89 Gaston Chiquet, NV Brut Tradition
Dizy
Reserved scents of apricot, lemon, dry cereal and honey are well integrated. Beery flavors of orange peel, toast and chalk. Long, tight close will soften with time. $42
90 Gosset, NV Brut Excellence
Aÿ
Doughy aromas of apricot, baked apple and honeyed grains with a slowly emerging beer note. Very tangy, beery flavors of pineapple, lemon drop and malt. Crisp close shows yeast. $43
93 Gosset, MV Brut Grande Réserve
Aÿ
Pungent at first, then bakery scents emerge with notes of caramel and light char. Mixed flavors of apple and honey with malt, yeast and beer accents. Lengthy finish with a hint of oxidation adding complexity. $60
93 Gosset, 1999 Grand Millésime Brut
Aÿ
Whiffs of malt, beer and vanilla with an enjoyable aged nuance. Great weight and depth of fruit with butterscotch, malt and vanilla flavors. Lasting sweetness with grilled pineapple accenting the finish. $85
92 H. Billiot Fils, NV Brut Réserve
Grand Cru, Ambonnay
Doughy aromas of green apple, dried grains, yeast and cider. Malty, quite tart flavors of apricot pit, apple and citrus. Steely close has nuance. $55
87 Henri Abelé, NV Brut Traditionnel
Reims
Yeasty, buttery aromas. Nectar-like peach flavors show a drying mineral influence. Youthful, acidic finish. $22
90 Jean Lallement, NV Brut
Grand Cru, Verzenay
Honeyed aromas of stone fruit cobbler, minerals, butterscotch and mixed grains. A pleasing oxidized note frames flavors of apple, red fruit, beer and pecan. Long, mature close. $50
93 Laurent-Perrier, 1997 Brut Millésimé
Tours-sur-Marne
Chalky aromas of citrus, minerals and yeast. Rich flavors of lemon curd, Sherry and bread dough are quite different than suggested by the nose. Classic L-P liveliness in the finish. $60
90 Louis Roederer, NV Brut Premier
Reims
Minerally aromas of apple, wheat, yeast and dusty mocha. Rich, balanced flavors of lemon curd, orange marmalade and sweet bread dough delivered by racy acidity. $54
92 Louis Roederer, 1999 Brut
Reims
Intense, direct aromas of lemon peel, red cherry, flint, malt and pencil shavings. Foamy flavors of apple, yeast, dried grains and minerals need time to open. Pristine close concludes on a flint note. $74
92 Marc Herbrart, NV Brut Sélection
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Flinty, chalky aromas of lime peel, toast and vanilla wafer. Creamy flavors of citrus, peach, straw and chalk with buttery notes. Lemon zest emboldens the finish. $46
89 Moët & Chandon, NV White Star
Épernay
Toasty scents of apple, dough, nutmeg and lots of flint. Creamy flavors of red berries, citrus and butterscotch are quite zesty and mouth-filling. Ripe, yeasty close. $35
87 Moët & Chandon, 1999 Brut Millésime Blanc
Épernay
Attractive bread dough and charred oak aromas. Well toasted and yeasty with chalk and lime peel flavors. Stylistic, sweet finish. $53
88 Mumm, NV Brut Cordon Rouge
Reims
Toasty, biscuity scents of apple and citrus peel with a cream note. Steely flavors of lemon, sour apple and flint. Very crisp, minerally finish. $43
90 Mumm, NV Brut Grand Cru
Reims
Flinty aromas of toast, yeast and Sherry with fruit undertones. Bright, foamy flavors of lime peel, fresh bread, flint and yeast. Intense, minerally close. $60
87 Nicolas Feuillatte, NV Brut
Chouilly, Épernay
Shy scents of baked apple, brioche and straw. Balanced flavors of apple cider and minerals. Light, sweet close is nice and round. $40
87 Nicolas Feuillatte, 1999 Brut Cuvée Spéciale
Épernay
Shy bouquet of chalk, flint and ginger with the fruit in the background. Ripe flavors of peach, apple and honey. Medium-sweet close with caramel and apple notes. $45
91 Perrier Jouët, NV Grand Brut
Épernay
Complex, aged aromas of baked apple, yeast, beer, brioche and minerals. Beery, buttery, beautifully balanced flavors of apricot, lime, bread dough and butterscotch. Spicy finish shows very ripe banana notes. $49
91 Philipponnat, NV Brut Royal Réserve
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Pretty, beautifully integrated aromas of red berries, lemon, yeast and honey show a light toastiness. Beery, nicely mature flavors of apricot, orange marmalade and flint are quite dry. A hint of tropical fruit in the otherwise austere close. $45
92 Philipponnat, 1999 Brut Réserve Millésimé
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Doughy and flinty with vanillin sweetness in the nose. Youthful and rather acidic with lemon drop flavors and a secondary toastiness. Classic brut style with citrus and mineral notes driving the lingering finish. $65
87 Piper-Heidsieck, NV Cuvée Brut
Reims
Light yeast and mineral aromas. Crisp and steely with a hint of brown spices in the mouth. Typical brut style with youthful astringency in the close. $35
92 Pol Roger, NV Brut Extra Cuvée de Réserve
Épernay
Intense, very yeasty aromas of lime peel, apricot, nuts, bread and honey. Frothy flavors of raspberry, lemon pie and flint are delivered with enviable verve. Fruit and smoke in the long close. $48
94 Pol Roger, 1998 Brut Extra Cuvée Réserve
Épernay
Deep, mature aromas of grilled pineapple, flint, buttery biscuit and Sherry. Foamy, though substantial flavors of citrus, butter and flint. Vivacious finish shows ample citrus. $83
89 Pommery, NV Brut Royal
Reims
Pretty scents of peach, vanilla frosting and wheat. Sweet, soft flavors of pineapple, ripe citrus and honey. Tight close shows the wine's acidity. $39
91 Pommery, NV Brut Apanage
Reims
Aged flavors of lemon curd, peach, pecan, yeast and flint. Beery flavors of baked apple, bread dough, butter and toast have great depth. Red fruit appears in the yeasty finish. $65
93 Pommery, 1996 Brut Grand Cru Millésimé
Reims
A lovely toastiness from the outset couples with sweet pecan scents. Loads of tropical fruit flavors have an ever-present toastiness. Fresh, clean close with plenty of citrus flavors. $75
90 René Geoffroy, NV Brut
Cuvée Sélectionnée, Cumières
Yeasty, aged aromas of red apple, oats, pencil and malt. Winey flavors of red berries, apricot, beer and more malt lend the package weight and texture. Intense, brambly finish. $55
88 René Geoffroy, 2002 Brut Empreinte
Premier Cru, Cumières
Focused, malty aromas of dried apricot, apple and toast. Foamy flavors of apple and straw with a metallic bite. Creamy close ends on a tingly note. $55
90 Taittinger, NV Brut La Française
Reims
Yeasty, doughy aromas of apple, pecan and beer show a pretty perfume note. Tangy flavors of lemon drop, flint and bread dough. Long, spirited finish is fresh and fruit filled. $35
88 Taittinger, NV Brut Prélude
Grand Cru, Reims
Fresh baguette and butter scents with a note of clove. Honey, toast, peach and lemon flavors. A rather sweet finish with a charred nuance. $70
92 Taittinger, 1999 Brut Millésimé
Reims
Upfront lemon zest aromas. Lively flavors of charred oak and peach laced with fresh acidity. Intense, energized finish with tropical fruit and lingering toast notes. $65
92 Veuve Clicquot, NV Brut
Reims
Very flinty aromas of red berries, citrus, beer, yeast and bread dough. Foamy, mouth-filling flavors of red apple, peach, butterscotch and yeast. Clean close highlighted by ripe pineapple notes. $42
91 Veuve Clicquot, 1999 Brut
Reims
Reserved aromas of citrus, red apple and straw have a chalky bent. Very youthful flavors of green apple and minerals are dry, and show just a hint of malt. Red fruit notes emerge in the finish. $62
Blanc de Blancs
NV, Vintage & Prestige
90 Besserat de Bellefon, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Cuvée des Moines, Épernay
Citrusy scents of lemon peel, apricot pit, cereal and yeast. Foamy, bracing flavors of tart apple, lemon and minerals. Crisp close. $65
90 Bruno Paillard, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Réserve Privée, Reims
Toasty aromas of lemon zest, wet stone and mixed grains are light and pretty. Bubbly flavors of apple cider, lime, wet gravel and yeast. Bracing, bone-dry finish. $61
95 Charles Heidsieck, 1995 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Reims
Big, dry, toasty aromas of baked apple, Sherry, beer, dry cereal and hazelnut are layered and mature. Rich flavors of lemon peel, banana, chalk, malt and mixed grains are equally as expressive as the nose. Smooth, lingering, fruit-sodden close. $95
94 Comte Audoin de Dampierre, NV Brut
Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Aged, winey aromas of citrus, toast, Sherry and flint. The wine theme continues on balanced flavors of lime, apple, straw and chalk. Infinitely long finish is loaded with mature nuances. $49
93 Comte Audoin de Dampierre, 2000 Grand Cru
Ficelée à l'Ancienne, Avize
Verdantly fresh scents of grapefruit, orange marmalade and minerals. An aged oxidized note yields to round flavors of orange, lime and chalk. Ripe citrus in the close. $105
93 Delamotte, 1999 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Fresh aromas of lemon peel, chalk and vanilla. A crisp, well-structured wine with plenty of peach, apricot and mineral flavors. The finish is youthful and tart reflecting the staying power of blanc de blancs. $79
91 Deutz, 1998 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Aÿ
Yeasty, doughy aromas of baked apple, pineapple, toast and vanilla manage to remain nervy. Balanced flavors of lemon curd, bread dough and toast. Intense, focused close. $94
92 Duval-Leroy, 1998 Brut Blanc de Chardonnay
Vertus
Lovely combination of stone fruit, flint, Fino Sherry and grain aromas. Citrusy flavors of peach, pineapple, bread dough and yeast with Sherry notes. Rich, buttery close. $45
93 Jean Milan, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Carte Blanche, Grand Cru, Oger
Ripe aromas of peach, banana, minerals and bread dough. Fresh, foamy flavors of stone fruit, sweet bread dough and toast. Minerally finish braces the wine's richness. $46
95 Jean Milan, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Spécial
Grand Cru, Oger
Nicely aged, oxidized notes frame aromas of banana peel, citrus and yeast. Ripe, buttery flavors of apricot, toast, flint and nuts all wrapped by a very round, plush body. Tangy, yeasty close. $48
95 Krug, 1995 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Clos du Mesnil, Reims
Very intense, very Krug-like aromas of baked apple, brown butter, clove, Sherry, yeast and boiled crab shell. Frothy flavors of dried apricot, lemon, flint, malt and beer are even more intense than the nose. Crisp acidity frames the long, sherried finish. $725
92 Louis Roederer, 2000 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Reims
Flinty, chalky aromas of lemon peel, orange, beer and yeast. Spirited flavors of citrus, pineapple, beer and toast are quite youthful but already showing an aged nuance. Lime peel notes enliven the close. $76
91 Mumm de Cramant, NV Brut Chardonnay
Grand Cru, Reims
Nicely aged aromas of lemon, apple, bread dough, wheat and malt show great integration. Seamless flavors of apricot, honeyed grains and toast are balanced by chalky notes. Creamy, tingly close. $61
92 Nicolas Feuillatte, 1998 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Épernay
Beery, buttery aromas of baked apple, lime and honeyed grains have an inviting lusciousness to them. Lively, substantial flavors of citrus peel, bitter orange, chalk and Sherry. Toasty, charred finish. $50
92 Philipponnat, 1999 Brut Grand Blanc
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Very crisp aromas of yellow flowers, minerals, straw and bread dough with the soft fruit notes in the background. Aged flavors of green apple, citrus, honey and Sherry are quite winey. Dry close exudes flint and yeast. $75
93 Pierre Gimonnet, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Premier Cru, Cuis
Deep, toasty and inviting aromas of apple and minerals. Intense, concentrated flavors of lemon peel, flint and biscuit. Very long, very minerally finish. $46
90 Pierre Gimonnet, 2000 Brut Gastronome
Blanc de Blancs, Premier Cru, Cuis
Fresh doughy aromas have an uplifting toastiness. Ripe, creamy structure with lime peel and mineral accents. Drying, delicate finish with a note of flint and a lick of cream. $48
90 Pierre Peters, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Grand Cru, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Ripe, vibrant aromas of lemon curd, minerals and bread dough. Tart, tangy attack yields somewhat to foamy flavors of green apple, gravel and straw. Sour apple notes in the close. $48
94 Pol Roger, 1998 Brut Chardonnay
Extra Cuvée Réserve, Épernay
Toasty aromas of apple, mulling spice, yeast and Sherry attest to the wine's complexity. Chalky, very youthful flavors of apple cider, lime peel, beer and yeast. Lime peel and chalk in the punchy close. $102
89 Ruinart, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Reims
Floral scents of apple blossom, lemon and vanilla have a Sherry edge. Beery flavors of apple, citrus and pecan. Dry, malty finish. $65
93 S Salon, 1996 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Aged, nicely oxidized aromas of apple, citrus, oats, yeast and flint. Youthful, winey flavors of green apple, lime, chalk and minerals. Surprisingly soft close in the face of the wine's searing acidity. $300
94 Taittinger, 1996 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Comtes de Champagne, Reims
Toasty, fresh, floral scents of lime peel, lemon curd, hay and char. Wine-like flavors of citrus, apple, buttered toast and chalk show more body than suggested by the nose. Flint emerges in a tight finish that augers for long life. $140
92 Varnier-Fannière, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Grand Cru, Avize
Shy aromas of flint and chalk. Tangy lemon meringue flavors with a secondary pecan note. Tasty, lengthy close shows off a combo of cream and citrus. $52
Prestige NV & Vintage
95 Billecart-Salmon, 1996 Brut
Nicolas François Billecart, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Lovely aromas of banana peel, peach, burnt citrus, mixed grains and flint show off the nose's generosity. Buttery, malty flavors of citrus, caramel, yeast and beer are well structured and deep. Tightens up a bit in the long close. $100
95 Bollinger, 1995 Extra Brut R.D.
Aÿ
Distinctive aromas of red berries, apricot, butter, Sherry and malt are endless in their complexity. Crisp, yet huge flavors of baked apple, red fruit, Sherry, brown butter and beer are so long and layered. Wine-like notes in the lengthy finish. $200
94 Chartogne-Taillet, 1999 Brut Fiacre
Tête de Cuvée, Montagne de Reims
Intense, yet quite round aromas of red fruit, beer, char, nuts and nutmeg. Very beery flavors of apricot, red fruit, straw and Sherry. Toasty close. $62
91 Duval-Leroy, 1996 Femme de Champagne
Vertus
Fresh aromas of just-sliced green apple and grapefruit with notes of yeast and bread dough. Foamy flavors of tart apple, pear and yeast retain their zestiness throughout. Soft, sweet finish. $64
95 Gosset, 1996 Brut Celebris
Aÿ
Very complex, winey aromas of orange marmalade, red berries, mixed grains, malt and beer are round and layered. Fresh, though mature flavors of strawberry, apple, stone fruit and malt. Youthful close nonetheless shows lots of char and yeast. $150
94 Krug, MV Brut Grande Cuvée
Reims
Malty, winey aromas of apple, pecan, bread dough and smoked meat. Very winey, mouth-filling flavors of lime, tangerine, flint, yeast and beer barrel with red fruit notes that reveal themselves slowly. Long finish sports classic Krug intensity. $145
92 Laurent-Perrier, MV Brut Grand Siècle
Tours-sur-Marne
Chalky, flinty aromas of orange, lemon and bread dough. Balanced, mouth-filling flavors of apple cider, malt and yeast are more expressive than the nose. Soft lemon drop finish. $110
92 Louis Roederer, 1999 Brut Cristal
Reims
Somewhat shy aromas of apricot, pear, chalk and dough. Round flavors of lemon curd, pineapple, yeast and flint are tingly and foamy. Closes with a ginger ale crispness. $185
94 Moët & Chandon, 1998 Dom Pérignon
Épernay
Yeasty aromas of citrus, sweet apple, chalk and a freshening herbal essence. Lusciously round flavors of banana, lime, apricot, ginger and chalk show lots of toasty notes. Bread dough softens the finish. $140
96 Moët & Chandon, 1990 Dom Pérignon
Oenotheque, Épernay
Smoky, yeasty aromas of red berries, peach nectar, citrus, yeast and black tea. Mature, flinty flavors of pineapple, mixed grains, cinnamon and bread dough. Bright, fruit-strewn finish kept fresh by zesty acidity. $290
93 Nicolas Feuillatte, 1997 Cuvée Palmes d'Or
Épernay
Lightly yeasty aromas of browned apple, minerals, beer and straw. Ripe flavors of peach, banana, yeast and wet slate sport wine-like acidity. Aged nuances emerge in the fruity close. $95
93 Perrier Jouët, 1998 Brut Fleur de Champagne
Épernay
Ripe aromas of stone fruit, beer, flint, bread dough and Sherry. A chalky dryness yields to foamy flavors of red berries, green apple, flint and ginger. Very fresh, youthful finish. $130
94 Philipponnat, 1996 Brut Clos des Goisses
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Exotic aromas of red apple, apricot liqueur, butternut squash, malt and bread dough. Tangy flavors of green apple, pale ale and pecan have a waxy texture. Flint emerges in the now-tight close. $135
95 Piper-Heidsieck, NV Cuvée Rare
Reims
Fresh citrus aromas possess a defined toastiness. Balanced sweetness with yeast, toast and a smoke notes adding to its complexity. Youthful acidity with obvious Chardonnay flavors deliver a crisp, lengthy finish. $120
93 Pol Roger, 1996 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill
Épernay
Direct, winey aromas of lemon, butter, flint and chalk. Round, sweet flavors of stone fruit, citrus, mixed grains, flint and minerals. Orange marmalade notes perk up the focused finish. $205
90 Pommery, 1998 Brut Cuvée Louise
Reims
Lightly toasted aromas of baked apple, peach, butter and nutmeg. Chalky flavors of lime, char and yeast. Dry, clean close shows classic brut styling. $185
98 Veuve Clicquot, 1996 Brut La Grande Dame
Reims
A just-struck match note leads to copious aromas of red fruit compote, apple, orange peel, melted butter, yeast and chalk. Big, rich, balanced flavors of red berries, apricot, honey, brown butter, beer and flint retain a minerally freshness. Long finish shows the wine's youth and impressive ageing potential. $110
Rosé
NV, Vintage & Prestige
87 Aubry, NV Brut Rosé
Premier Cru, Jouy-lès-Reims
Very doughy aromas of baked apple, rhubarb, butter and nutmeg. Dry flavors of sour orange, herbs and lots of Pinot notes. Earthy close shows cedar. $52
91 Besserat de Bellefon, NV Brut Rosé
Cuvée des Moines, Épernay
Vibrant aromas of red berries, ginger, chalk, white flowers and toast. Tangy, toasty flavors of orange peel, rhubarb and cedar. Fresh, clean close loaded with red fruit. $45
94 Billecart-Salmon, NV Brut Rosé
Mereuil-sur-Aÿ
Pretty, delicate, floral scents of red berries, orange zest, peach and bread dough. Super zingy acidity lifts flavors of orange peel, honey, caramel and cedar. Blindingly fresh finish. $70
91 Bruno Paillard, NV Brut Rosé
Première Cuvée, Reims
Fresh tangerine and biscuit aromas with hints of red fruit. Sweet cherry juice flavors show an edge of pungency. Light, delicate finish with notes of vanilla and cherry. $57
92 Charles Heidsieck, 1999 Brut Rosé
Reims
Delicate, sweet aromas of strawberry and sugar cubes. Rich and forthcoming with strawberry and cherry juice flavors. Well-melded, fine-tuned acids help temper the sweetness in the close. $80
92 Comte Audoin de Dampierre, NV Brut Rosé
Oeil de Perdrix, Grand Cru, Vertus
Ripe, doughy aromas of peach, orange and Sherry have a Cognac-like warmth. Toasty flavors of orange, red berries, bread dough and flint are admirably balanced and textured. Long finish. $56
92 Delamotte, NV Brut Rosé
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
A mix of earthiness and orange peel with a note of charred oak in the nose. Tasty caramel and orange flavors have a youthful tartness. A light toastiness punctuates the close along with a lick of vanilla. $70
93 Duval-Leroy, NV Brut Rosé de Saignée
Vertus
Ripe aromas of red cherry, red apple, bread dough and minerals are more focused than exuberant. Frothy flavors of orange peel and red currant are framed by prickly acidity. Wonderfully long close. $40
94 Gosset, NV Brut Grand Rosé
Aÿ
Fresh baguette and orange peel aromas. This sumptuous quaff is loaded with fruit emitting flavors of fresh citrus, Pinot Noir and a hint of mocha. Excellent length with orange, tangerine and charred barrel notes. $71
92 H. Billiot Fils, NV Brut Rosé
Grand Cru, Ambonnay
Creamy aromas of orange peel, yellow flowers, cinnamon and buttered toast. Sweet-tart flavors of cherry, orange, cedar and chalk show hefty body and graceful balance. Orange marmalade and bread dough wrap up the close. $56
96 Krug, MV Brut Rosé
Reims
Expressive aromas of banana peel, macerated cherry, nutmeg, Sherry, beer barrel and malt are substantial, yet not heavy. Stylized, toasty flavors of orange, beer and yeast with oxidized notes. Flinty, dry finish concludes with a tart peach flourish. $230
90 Moët & Chandon, NV Brut Impérial Rosé
Épernay
Fresh strawberry scents with notes of yeast and iodine. Hefty and round with candied strawberry and cream flavors. Stylistically sweet, yet balanced and makes for an enjoyable quaff. $45
89 Moët & Chandon, NV Nectar Impérial Rosé
Épernay
Fragrant aromas of red fruit and orange peel are delicate and well integrated. Foamy flavors led by bushels of red cherry and apricot preserves are on the sweet side. Continued sweetness in the close manages to conclude on a drier note. $50
96 Moët & Chandon, 1995 Dom Pérignon Rosé
Épernay
Flinty aromas of dried citrus peel, raspberry, cedar, buttered toast and baking spice. Crisp, toasty flavors of cherry, orange peel and flint have surprising viscosity in the face of the wine's obvious youth. Lingering, toasty notes in the finish. $400
91 Mumm, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Pretty aromas of strawberry, orange, chalk, yeast and vanilla. Balanced, very vibrant flavors of red berries and citrus are foamy and frothy. Drying, tangy close. $52
87 Nicolas Feuillatte, NV Brut Rosé
Épernay
Delicate, sweet nose has a whiff of flintiness. Soft cherry flavors with sugar cube-like sweetness. Definitely a sweet versus dry rosé that finishes on a frothy, creamy, sweet note. $36
93 Philipponnat, NV Brut Réserve Rosée
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Attractive bakery aromas with a vanillin note. Sweet, yet curiously dry at the same time, with apricot and a burst of orange in the mouth. The finish is creamy with a delicate, lasting sweetness. $50
87 Piper-Heidsieck, NV Rosé Sauvage
Reims
Pungent, earthy aromas with hints of red fruit. Somewhat sweet cranberry and licorice flavors. More weight than expected with a lengthy, fruit-driven close. $45
89 Pommery, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Dusty scents of apricot, orange peel, smoke and minerals. Dry flavors of orange, lemon and cedar are balanced and foamy. Orange and vanilla pick up the finish. $70
91 Pommery, 1999 Brut Cuvée Louise Rosé
Reims
Fresh, chalky aromas of apple, citrus and bread dough with an inviting anise note. Foamy flavors of citrus peel, red berries, beer and flint. Crisp close shows ginger and char. $260
93 Ruinart, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Deep, chalky aromas of red fruit, peach, apple and flowers are exuberant, yet substantial. Creamy flavors of strawberry, raspberry, minerals and brown spice are very clean. Long, honeyed finish. $65
90 Taittinger, NV Brut Prestige Rosé
Reims
Fruity scents of cherry, caramel and earth. Both crisp and toasty with flavors of strawberry and cranberry. A pinot-like pungency caps the lengthy close. $60
95 Taittinger, 2000 Brut Rosé
Comtes de Champagne, Reims
Pretty, floral aromas of cherry, orange peel, minerals and pecan with an interesting charcoal note. Tangy, lean, youthful flavors of orange, apple, strawberry and toast are balanced and compact but promise even greater things with time. Tart red fruit highlights the lively finish. $210
95 Veuve Clicquot, 1995 Brut Rosé
La Grande Dame, Reims
Very intense aromas of rhubarb, orange, malt, tobacco and minerals. Superbly balanced flavors of orange, dried red fruit, sweet bread dough, yeast and malt. Long, winey close shows ample red fruit. $285
Tutored Tastings
Matua Valley
The following New Zealand wines were reviewed by BuyLine panelists John Stroker and Abraham Horowitz on October 6th, during a tasting at Capital Grille in Miami, Florida, led by Matua winemaker Peter Munro. The wines were not tasted blind.
88 Matua Valley, 2006 Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
Pale yellow hue. Crisp aromas of flint and lemon with a ginger note. Vibrant acidity and juicy flavors of melon and kiwi. Mineral and flint in the close. $12
90 Matua Valley, 2006 Paretai Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
Pale straw hue. Enticing scents of gooseberry and green apple with nuances of paraffin and minerals. Creamy acidity and ripe flavors of pineapple and white peach. Smoke and vanilla in the close. $17
88 Matua Valley, 2004 Judd Estate Chardonnay
Gisborne
Bright yellow-gold hue. Inviting scents of pear and honeysuckle with hints of vanilla and allspice. Juicy flavors of apple and pear with nuances of butter and wheat. Continued apple notes in the crisp finish. $17
89 Matua Valley, 2005 Estate Pinot Noir
Marlborough
Pale ruby hue. Redolent of violets and raspberry. Racy acidity and juicy flavors of wild cherry and strawberry. Red fruit-soaked close. $20
Clarendon Hills
The following Australian wines were reviewed by BuyLine panelists John Stroker and Abraham Horowitz on September 27th during a tasting at Graziano's in Miami, Florida, led by by Clarendon Hills winemaker Roman Bratasiuk. The wines were not tasted blind.
93 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Grenache
Clarendon, McLaren Vale
Deep ruby red hue. Powerful scents of raspberry, blackberry and minerals. Velvety tannins and jammy flavors of wild cherry, kirsch and white pepper. Hints of dust and chalk in the juicy close. $61
92 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Grenache
Hickinbotham, McLaren Vale
Reddish-purple hue. Heady aromas of blueberry and wet stone. Creamy acidity and juicy flavors of blackberry and raspberry. Clove and allspice in the zesty black cherry-driven close. $61
92 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Grenache
Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale
Deep crimson hue. Smoky nose of tobacco, oak and plum. Well integrated with fine-grain tannins and ripe flavors of red currant and raspberry against a backdrop of earth and black pepper. Raspberry and racy acidity mark the close. $70
93 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Grenache
Kangarilla Vineyard, McLaren Vale
Dense garnet hue. Exotic scents of cassis and blackberry with nuances of lavender and rose petals. Expansive flavors of dried berry, mocha and Baker's chocolate. Well-integrated acidity and fine-grain tannins in the raspberry-driven close. $70
93 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Grenache
Romas, McLaren Vale
Inky purple hue. Inviting aromas of sweet tobacco, violets, raspberry and mace. Jammy flavors of blackberry and wild cherry with well-integrated oak. Fine-grain tannins and hints of chocolate and white pepper in the tart close. $100
88 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Merlot
Brookman, McLaren Vale
Dark ruby hue. Aromas of blueberry and coffee with nuances of sweet maple and hay. Sweet flavors of raspberry and blueberry with a touch of oak and vanilla. Spicy clove notes in the tart close. $60
87 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Brookman, McLaren Vale
Inky black hue. Come-hither scents of blueberry and Christmas spices. Racy flavors of dried raspberry with a hint of tar. Cherry notes in the dusty close. $65
89 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Sandown, McLaren Vale
Deep purple hue. Aromas of chocolate and cedar with hints of wet stone and minerals. Tightly wound flavors of cherry and maple with a backing of tart acids and charred oak. Velvety tannins in the cassis- and cedar-driven close. $65
94 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Hickinbotham, McLaren Vale
Dense black cherry hue. Enticing scents of blueberry, violets and licorice. Perfectly integrated with refined tannins and racy flavors of raspberry and chocolate with a hint of pencil lead. Vanilla and toasted oak nuances in the silky, cherry-driven close. $70
92 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Syrah
Bakers Gully, McLaren Vale
Deep crimson hue. Powerful scents of boysenberry and sweet cherry pie. Jammy flavors of raspberry and tar. Hints of allspice in the briary berry close. $65
95 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Syrah
Liandra, McLaren Vale
Dense crimson hue. Huge aromas of blueberry and vanilla-laced oak with nuances of plum and kirsch. Rich, ripe flavors of blueberry and blackberry with additional complexities of cinnamon and bacon. Big, lush tannins in the endless close that echoes notes of blueberry and allspice. $78
93 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Syrah
Moritz, McLaren Vale
Dense garnet-purple hue. Complex scents of white pepper, rose petals and black currant. Juicy flavors of plum and blueberry with hints of pencil lead and minerals. Tart stone fruit and hints of tar in the earthy close. $78
95 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Syrah
Brookman, McLaren Vale
Inky purple hue. Heady scents of maple, blueberry and rum cake. Silky tannins and generous flavors of black cherry and raspberry. Layers of licorice, currant and acacia flowers unfold in the finish. $100
91 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Syrah
Hickinbotham, McLaren Vale
Deep black cherry hue. Redolent of crème de cassis, licorice and smoke. Robust, oaky tannins and tight flavors of tart wild cherry. Impressions of maple and white pepper in the finish. $100
97 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Syrah
Piggott Range, McLaren Vale
Dense purple hue. Lovely aromas of black cherry, creamy vanilla, blueberry and graphite. Impeccably balanced with dusty oak-drenched tannins supporting lush flavors of blackberry, leather and maple. Well-integrated acidity and continuing impressions of black cherry and blueberry in the never-ending close. $150
99 Clarendon Hills, 2004 Astralis Syrah
McLaren Vale
Vibrant purple-black hue. Exotic scents of maple, vanilla, rum cake and an endless cornucopia of black and red berry aromas. Amazingly concentrated and balanced, yet elegantly restrained flavors of blueberry, plum, and violets. Full, refined tannins and well-integrated acidity. Echoes of blueberry, plum, pepper and cedar in the eternal close. $325
About the BuyLine Panel: More than 100 wines are reviewed in every issue of Wine News. All wines are tasted double-blind and each entry is evaluated and scored based upon individual merit. Wines that score above 70 points are recommended in the BuyLine. Tasting and interpreting wine is a purely subjective exercise; all scores and accompanying tasting notes represent the collective opinions of our panel.
Wine Samples: Send samples for review with retail price affixed to:
Wine News BuyLine Tasting Panel
1501 Venera Avenue, Suite 320
Coral Gables, FL 33146
Telephone: 305.740.7170
The Panel: Lyn Farmer, senior staff columnist; Abraham Horowitz, BuyLine panelist; Tom E. Smith, publisher; John Stroker, BuyLine panelist; Fred Tasker, Miami Herald wine critic; Todd M. Wernstrom, executive editor.
Scoring: Tasting notes reflect the panel's collective impressions; scores are averaged and represent the panel's mean. Wines possessing certain criteria will be singled out for special recognition:
Taster's Choice: Wines which display outstanding quality, character and potential.
Best Value Wines of exceptional quality which sell at a moderate price.
Stemware: Riedel Ouverture tasting glasses.
Pricing: Prices vary from state to state. Retail prices listed are approximate.
