A perfect example of the best Cabernet that Napa can produce from an excellent vintage.
Photo: Tom E. Smith
California's Best of 2006
By Steve PitcherThe good news is that there are some excellent late-release 2002s in the market (but not for long), and based on what has been released to date from 2004 (whites, of course, plus Pinots, Syrahs, Zins, some Merlots and a sprinkling of Cabs), and especially whites from 2005, California is back on track following the 2003 speed bump. In fact, vintners in virtually every winegrowing region on the planet are extolling 2005 as an unparalleled success. From what I've tasted, those assertions are absolutely accurate: We may actually, truthfully, have a genuine "vintage of the century" at hand, and a global one at that. These early prognostications auger very well for the 2005 California reds to follow.
This year's report is structured in the format introduced last year: There is no "Best Value" category and no separate listing of limited-production wines without description. Instead, for each category, wines are evaluated purely in terms of quality, regardless of price or case production. For each varietal category, there is a separate first-place position for a Wine of the Year, which stands alone at the top because of the clearly evident extraordinary character that lifted it above the field. A "Top Ten" section follows with each wine listed and described alphabetically, and falling within the same high-quality range of "Outstanding" to "Superb" (covered by the 90-and-above point range of the magazine's BuyLine scoring system). Wines listed without description following the Top Ten are in the same quality range, but are slightly eclipsed in quality (subjectively) by the described wines.
Wines rated 90+ by the BuyLine panel were again considered for inclusion on these pages, but only those also tasted separately by me became candidates for the final list. Wines that carry the initials "BL" indicate a BuyLine selection, and, where applicable, include the panel's tasting notes and any special distinction (such as "Publisher's Pick"). The balance are my personal selections, painstakingly culled from hundreds of wines tasted throughout the year. While most bottles were tasted blind and comparatively, some were tasted open. Publication deadlines precluded consideration of any wines not scheduled for tasting by October 31.
Some veteran readers may notice that Shafer wines are at the top of two categories for the second year in a row. Given my palate preference, it would be unusual - indeed, bizarre - if Shafer's wines were not at the top of these categories. Shafer is, simply put, the best winery in California doing what it does with Cabernet and Syrah.
Here, then, beginning below and continuing on the pages that follow, are the best California wines I encountered in 2006.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet of the Year
Shafer, 2002 Hillside Select, Stags Leap District - $190: Released in September, the current Hillside Select duplicates the outstanding achievement of its 2001 predecessor; a perfect example of the best Cabernet that Napa can produce from an excellent vintage, with the added advantage of its area of origin - Stags Leap District estate hillside blocks with names like Sunspot, John's Folly, Venado Illegal and Rattler. Vivid, intensely aromatic scents of perfectly ripe blackberry-cassis-black cherry enhanced by notes of dark chocolate, mild peppery herbaceousness and roasted coffee bean. Bold and powerful, but not overripe or out of balance, this 100 percent Cab boasts extracted, highly concentrated flavors of succulent black fruit highlighted by dark chocolate, dried herbs, vanilla and a certain hillside minerality that extends into the long finish. Exciting and appealing to drink now, but clearly deserving of cellaring over the next five to ten years, and longer. (2,500 cases)
Top Ten Cabernets of the Year
Beringer, 2002 Private Reserve, Napa Valley - $116: Earthy, tarry, smoky aromas of plum, gravel, coffee, mint and shoe leather. Luscious, chalky flavors of black cherry, blueberry, sweet oak, chocolate and cola. Brown sugar, tea and tobacco highlight the layered close. (14,200 cases) Tasters' Choice Selection - BL
Caymus, 2003 Special Selection, Napa Valley - $136: Forward, expressive aromas of ripe cassis, blackberry, dried lavender, vanilla and dark-roasted coffee bean show through after initial high-char oak dissipates. Rich and supple on the palate with medium-full tannins and complex flavors of dark berries and cassis accented by hints of eucalyptus and creamy oak; long close. (9,800 cases)
Robert Craig, 2003 Howell Mountain, Napa Valley - $70: Rich, chocolaty nose of wild blackberry, cassis and vanilla cream with notes of red cherry, allspice and a hint of black pepper. Smooth, luscious and juicy on the palate with medium-full, fine-grain tannins and generous, complex flavors that replicate the nose with an intriguing addition of glove leather. (750 cases)
Dalla Valle, 2003 Napa Valley - $110: A voluptuous, yet superbly balanced wine, offering fragrant, appealing aromas of black raspberry, cassis, blueberry, plum, bittersweet chocolate and a delicate whiff of green herbs (probably reflective of the eight percent cab franc in the blend). Velvety smooth, luscious and complex on the palate; lifted flavors promised by the nose are accented by notes of vanilla and sage that persist into the long finish. An elegant, poised, noble Cabernet. (800 cases)
J. Davies, 2003 Estate Grown, Diamond Mountain District - $69: Silky, supple, curvaceous Cabernet, very approachable and the epitome of elegance. And this from a mountain-grown wine, which offers come-hither aromas of ripe blackberry-cassis fruit accented by anise, vanilla cream and clove, fine-grain, medium tannins and scrumptious flavors defined by the nose. Unfined and unfiltered, and blended with a little malbec (5%) and merlot (2%), this is a fairly priced, superbly crafted Cab that's a joy to drink from first sip through the extended finish. (1,238 cases)
Etude, 2003 Napa Valley - $85: Opulently textured - as expected from winemaker Tony Soter - the 2003 Etude offers enticing aromas of pristine black cherry-cassis fruit accented by subtle dried lavender, anise and creamy oak. Absolutely irresistible even now, the blend of 97% cabernet and 3% cab franc sourced from superb sites in Rutherford, Oakville, St. Helena and Calistoga offers lush, rich dark berry-cassis flavors that are deep and concentrated, and buoyed by ripe, supple, fine-grain tannins. A superbly seamless Cab with great structure and balance whose flavors linger into the extended close. (2,500 cases)
Harlan, 2003 Estate, Napa Valley - $295: Blended with tiny quantities of estate petit verdot, cab franc and merlot, the 2003 Harlan exhibits forward, slightly herbaceous aromas of cassis, white pepper and creamy oak that are replicated on the layered palate, joined by black cherry and blackberry fruit. Supple, curvaceous and complex with a lovely, long, vanilla-tinged finish. This "cult" wine deserves its generous accolades. May 2007 release. (1,827 cases)
Ladera, 2003 Howell Mountain - $65: Slow-to-open nose of ripe cassis, blackberry, sour cherry and cedar expands with airing, yet the palate is at once enormously expressive displaying a cascade of luscious black and red fruit, anise seed and subtle dried lavender that go on and on, seemingly forever, into the close, where the wine finishes on a vanilla note. A mountain-grown Cab that's both muscular and approachable with supple, ripe tannins and densely packed fruit. (1,000 cases)
Spottswoode, 2003 Estate, St. Helena - $110: Lovely aromas of blackberry, dark cherry, violets, toasty oak, white pepper and a hint of fresh, loamy earth. Smooth, luscious and elegant on the palate with well-integrated tannins and copious flavors of spicy cassis, mocha and vanilla cream. The wine finishes long and lovely with dried herb-tinged nuances. A great expression of finesse with every element in place and balanced perfectly. (3,700 cases)
Von Strasser, 2003 Post Vineyard, Diamond Mountain District - $70: Forward, enticing aromas of blackberry-black cherry fruit with a note of crème de cassis and a hint of dried lavender. Luscious and concentrated on the palate with loads of succulent blackberry-cassis fruit tinged with dried herbs and subtle mocha. Accessible now, but the ripe, medium-full tannins argue for a few years of cellaring. Blended with 10% merlot and 5% petit verdot. (248 cases)
Other Outstanding Cabs
Altamura, 2002 Napa Valley - $65 (3,800 cases) Publisher's Pick - BL
Beaulieu Vineyard, 2002 Georges de Latour Private Reserve, Napa Valley - $95 (9,500 cases) Tasters' Choice Selection - BL
Beaulieu Vineyard, 2003 Georges de Latour Private Reserve, Napa Valley - $95 (14,000 cases)
Caymus, 2003 Napa Valley - $70 (32,650 cases)
Caymus, 2004 Napa Valley - $70 (30,000 cases)
Chateau St. Jean 2001 Reserve, Sonoma County - $90 (386 cases)
Constant, 2002 Diamond Mountain Vineyard, Diamond Mountain District - $85 (777 cases)
Dominus, 2003 Napa Valley - $109 (5,600 cases)
Duckhorn, 2003 Estate Grown, Napa Valley - $90 (2,640 cases)
Duckhorn, 2003 Estate Grown, Patzimaro Vineyard, Napa Valley - $95 (428 cases)
Far Niente, 2003 Estate, Oakville - $115 (8,500 cases)
Frazier Winery, 2003 Napa Valley - $55 (1,730 cases) Tasters' Choice Selection - BL
Geyser Peak, 2003 Reserve, Alexander Valley - $46 (6,750 cases)
Ilsley, 2003 Stags Leap District - $48 (500 cases)
Madrigal, 2003 Las Viñas del Señor, Napa Valley - $80 (1,000 cases)
Robert Mondavi, 2003 Private Reserve, Napa Valley - $125 (7,043 cases)
Nickel & Nickel, 2003 Martin Stelling Vineyard, Oakville - $135 (565 cases)
Piña Cellars, 2003 Howell Mountain - $66 (400 cases)
Pine Ridge, 2003 Oakville - $75 (1,742 cases)
PlumpJack, 2003 McWilliams Oakville Estate Vineyard, Oakville - $68 (6,250 cases)
Ridge, 2003 Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains - $120 (1,500 cases)
Rudd, 2003 Oakville - $125 (1,900 cases)
Sequoia Grove, 2002 Rutherford Reserve, Napa Valley - $55 (3,556 cases) Tasters' Choice Selection - BL
Shafer, 2003 Napa Valley - $55 (7,000 cases)
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 2002 Cask 23, Napa Valley - $150 (2,600 cases)
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 2003 Fay Vineyard, Napa Valley - $80 (4,650 cases)
Stanton, 2003 Oakville - $65 (188 cases)
The Terraces, 2002 Napa Valley - $48 (284 cases)
Von Strasser, 2004 Estate Vineyards, Diamond Mountain District - $70 (764 cases)
Red Blends
Red Blend of the Year
Joseph Phelps, 2003 Insignia, 30th Anniversary, Napa Valley - $165: The current vintage of Insignia continues an impressive record for this Bordeaux-style blend of cabernet sauvignon (84%), petit verdot (10%) and three percent each merlot and malbec from estate-owned vineyards in Stags Leap District, Rutherford and St. Helena. Slow-to-open nose exhibits blackberry-black cherry fruit, dried lavender, mocha and espresso bean. Rich and supple on the palate with medium-full tannins and balancing acidity, the wine delivers layered flavors that replicate the nose, enhanced by Insignia's signature fruitcake-like spice and sweet oak. Finishes long and graceful. Bottled unfiltered, the wine is best decanted for near-term consumption. (12,000 cases)
Top Ten Red Blends of the Year
Chateau St. Jean, 2003 Cinq Cépages, Sonoma County - $75: A classy blend of all five Bordeaux varieties - cabernet (78%) leads the way, followed by merlot (10%), cab franc (7%), malbec (3%) and petit verdot (2%) - that offers enticing aromas of mocha, black cherry-boysenberry fruit, dried herbs and a hint of leather. On the palate, the wine is lush and elegant with medium tannins and copious flavors focusing on ripe blackberry accented by notes of red plum, blueberry, dried lavender and espresso bean. Silky smooth and seamless with flavor-enhancing acidity and a long, fruity finish. (15,800 cases)
Constant, 2002 Estate Claret, Diamond Mountain Vineyard, Diamond Mountain District - $50: A merlot-driven mountain blend (78% merlot, 22% cabernet) with a lovely perfume of ripe raspberry-blackberry fruit, a touch of mocha from the mostly new French oak and subtle vanilla. The palate replicates the nose and is densely packed with fruit and beautifully balanced by medium-full tannins and acidity. (197 cases)
M. Cosentino, 2003 Legends Meritage, Napa Valley - $80: Rich blueberry and coffee bean aromas have a defined mintiness. Lively black cherry fruit with a good lick of clove and fresh acidity. Tannins come to life in the somewhat youthful finish. (427 cases) - BL
Fisher, 2003 Cameron, Napa Valley - $50: Perfumed bouquet emitting mocha, plum and maraschino cherry. Silky texture with appealing cherry fruit and chocolate with mineral notes. Lengthy, vibrant close with polished tannins and a lingering sweetness. (1,500 cases) - BL
J. Lohr, 2002 Cuvée PAU, Paso Robles - $50: Intensely ripe aromas of raspberry, lavender and cassis. Layers of smoky black cherry flavors have a defined sweetness that seems to be a Lohr Cuvée series hallmark. Ripeness continues in the close with the additions of spicy oak and mocha. (225 cases) - BL
Opus One, 2002 Oakville - $165: Exhibiting a complex nose of cassis and dried strawberry, black olive and dried thyme, vanilla bean and chocolate, the 2002 is mostly cabernet (86%) with small percentages of merlot (6%), malbec (3%), cab franc (3%) and petit verdot (2%). Complex and delicious with medium-full tannins, the wine's flavors of ripe cassis tinged with black cherry, plum and espresso bean are broad and deep, lingering into the extended finish. (18,000 cases)
Rosenblum, 2003 Holbrook Mitchell Trio, Napa Valley - $32: Made from a trio of varieties - cabernet sauvignon (48%), merlot (32%) and cabernet franc (20%) - grown by Holbrook Mitchell in his hillside vineyard west of Yountville, this elegant yet generous wine offers attractive aromas of cassis and blackberry accented by notes of vanilla and black olive that translate to the palate where rich flavors are enhanced by ripe, fine-grain tannins. (1,154 cases)
Rubicon, 2002 Rubicon, Rutherford, Napa Valley - $110: Heady, minty aromas of ripe plum, charcoal and fresh croissant. This is a sumptuous Rubicon with ribbons of plum, blueberry and mineral flavors that reflect the ripe 2002 vintage. Extremely accessible; however, the tannins do firm up in the finish. (5,296 cases) - BL
Swanson, 2003 Alexis, Oakville - $65: An intriguing blend of cabernet (65%) and syrah (25%) with the balance made up of merlot and cab franc. Alexis offers cassis, red plum and blackberry on the nose, and is round and plush in the mouth with complex flavors of cassis, blueberry and blackberry, finishing with a wisp of white smoke. (2,700 cases)
Von Strasser, 2004 Reserve, Diamond Mountain District - $70: Slow-to-open nose of mocha, cedar, blueberry-black cherry-cassis fruit, accented by notes of vanilla and clove spice. Mouth-filling and luscious with supple, medium-full tannins, this exciting blend (equal parts petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon and ten percent each merlot and cab franc) is generous and rich, fairly bursting with deep, profound flavors of blueberry-tinged cassis and brown spice. Remarkably balanced and elegant with a lingering finish. (248 cases)
Other Outstanding Red Blends
M. Coz, 2003 Meritage, Napa Valley - $120 (524 cases)
Crane Brothers, 2003 Brodatious, Crane Ranch Vineyard, Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley - $40 (300 cases)
Geyser Peak, 2002 Reserve Alexandre Meritage, Alexander Valley - $49 (2,450 cases)
Paraduxx, 2003 Napa Valley - $45 (11,480 cases)
Shafer, 2003 Last Chance, Firebreak, Napa Valley - $42 (2,000 cases)
Vina Robles, 2004 Signature, Paso Robles - $34 (695 cases)
Von Strasser, 2004 Red Wine, Sori Bricco Vineyard, Diamond Mountain District - $70 (750 cases)
Merlot
Merlot of the Year
Beringer, 2002 Bancroft Ranch, Howell Mountain - $75: Vibrant, intense aromas of mocha and wild blackberry accented by subtle notes of cedar, cherry cola and brown spice. Densely textured with medium-full tannins, this muscular Merlot is hedonistically rich and saturated with ripe blackberry-black cherry fruit and, at the same time, massive and powerful, yet focused and nearly graceful. (2,000 cases)
Top Ten Merlots of the Year
Clos Du Val, 2003 Napa Valley - $25: Pleasant cigar box-tinged aromas of black cherry and red currant with a hint of peppery spice. Round and supple with medium-full tannins and varietal flavors of dark cherry fruit enhanced by mild green olive herbaceousness and tobacco leaf. (5,250 cases)
Duckhorn, 2002 Howell Mountain - $70: Alluring aromas of cinnamon toast, blackberry, black pepper and a touch of pleasant forest-floor earthiness. Deeply extracted and concentrated with medium-full tannins, this large-scale Merlot is brimming with complex flavors of freshly crushed blackberry and black raspberry enhanced by notes of leather and cocoa with a touch of dried sage emerging in the extended finish. (1,707 cases)
Duckhorn, 2004 Napa Valley - $50: Really joyous Merlot exhibiting fragrant aromas of black cherry-cassis-raspberry fruit that have an almost kirsch-like richness, enhanced with notes of dried lavender, vanilla and lightly toasted oak. Silky smooth on the palate with medium tannins and copious flavors that replicate the nose. Closes long with clove spice emerging in the finish. (25,135 cases)
Duckhorn, 2003 Three Palms Vineyard, Napa Valley - $80: Admirably reserved and subtly integrated aromas of blueberry, blackberry, graphite and violets. Silky-smooth flavors of cherry, citrus peel, tobacco and minerals are deep and sweet. Long, layered, fruit-dominant close. (2,956 cases) Tasters' Choice Selection - BL
Hartwell, 2003 Stags Leap District, Napa Valley - $65: Intense, dusty aromas of black fruit, graphite and cedar. Well-defined flavors of blackberry, pencil, tobacco and redwood are quite dry. Long, polished close. (320 cases) - BL
Paul Hobbs, 2003 Michael Black Vineyard, Napa Valley - $75: Forward, intense, appealing nose of black cherry-cranberry fruit, dried herbs and allspice. Rich and plump with medium-full tannins and copious, concentrated flavors of ripe, dark cherry fruit, finishing with a note of sweet oak. (340 cases)
Nickel & Nickel, 2003 Soscol Ranch, Napa Valley - $55: Rich nose of black cherry-loganberry fruit, Oreo cookie, dried sage and sweet oak. Smooth and plump with medium-full tannins, and rich, concentrated flavors of berry, black cherry and cassis. Dried sage reappears in the extended close. A well-structured Merlot with exemplary varietal character. (695 cases) >
Shafer, 2004 Napa Valley - $45: Forward, appealing aromas of black cherry, wild strawberry, cranberry, creamy oak and a lovely note of violets (imparted by the 10% cabernet franc). Rich, deep flavors echo the nose. Well structured (thanks to 15% cabernet sauvignon) with firm, ripe tannins. A wee bit rough in the finish; should soften with bottle age, as evidenced by a burst of fruit in the close. (10,000 cases)
Sterling, 2002 Three Palms Vineyard, Napa Valley - $50: Slow-to-open nose of dark cherry, tobacco leaf and cedar that expands with airing. Complex and harmonious on the palate with medium-full, supple tannins and a silky mouth-feel, the wine delivers deep flavors that replicate the nose and linger into an extended close. (6,688 cases)
Swanson, 2003 Oakville - $65: Clean, bright, fruit-forward aromas of black cherry and currant. Silky and seductive on the palate with copious, juicy, dark cherry flavors enhanced by an undertone of raspberry. Elegant and restrained with medium tannins and a long, fruity finish. (2,700 cases)
Other Outstanding Merlots
Beringer, 2003 Napa Valley - $20 (8,600 cases)
Duckhorn, 2003 Estate Grown, Napa Valley - $85
Imagery, 2003 Sunny Slope Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $35 (750 cases)
Luna, 2002 Napa Valley - $32 (4,890 cases)
MacRostie, 2002 Napa Valley-Carneros - $26 (926 cases)
Pahlmeyer, 2003 Napa Valley - $90 (1,440 cases)
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir of the Year
Merry Edwards, 2003 Klopp Ranch, Russian River Valley - $48: Wonderfully fragrant aromas expand with airing to exhibit vivid, ripe, just-crushed wild strawberry and blackberry, enlivened by notes of raspberry and hazelnut. Ultrasmooth and velvety with fine-grain tannins, lively acidity and generous flavors that replicate the nose, this well-structured Pinot exhibits great fruit expression and complexity, finishing long and lovely. Tasted several times, the wine just gets better and better. (1,250 cases)
Top Ten Pinots of the Year
Arista, 2004 Longbow, Russian River Valley - $38: Forward, somewhat smoky aromas of black cherry and red currant enhanced by sweet oak. Smooth, round and luscious with medium tannins, this complex Pinot offers abundant, deep, smoke-laced flavors of raspberry, plum and cola finishing with a bacony note (indicative of highly toasted barrels). (220 cases)
Copain, 2004 En Bas, Kiser Vineyard, Anderson Valley - $50: From one of the chilliest microclimates in Anderson Valley's Deep End, this impressive Pinot offers come-hither aromas of clove-cinnamon spice accenting deeply scented dark cherry-black raspberry fruit. Bright and lively on the palate with smooth, supple tannins and complex, lifted flavors that replicate the nose. A good backbone of acid provides structure to the rich texture. A joy to drink. (150 cases)
Davis Bynum, 2004 Lindley's Knoll, Russian River Valley - $55: Assertive, pleasing aromas of smoked meat and red fruit accented by a touch of blackberry liqueur and shy toast. Plush and generous in the mouth with medium-full tannins and balancing acidity, this wickedly rich Pinot offers a deep core of black and red fruit that resonates persistently on the palate, finishing with a wisp of smokiness. (250 cases)
DeLoach, 2004 Durell Vineyard, Sonoma Coast - $40: Under new ownership, the winery's first release from this vineyard in southwestern Sonoma Valley (almost into Carneros) is very impressive, offering forward, fragrant aromas of ripe strawberry and raspberry, plus a hint of black tea, all in a super-plush mouth-feel framed by fine-grain tannins. Vibrant, intense flavors echo the nose and persist into the extended finish. A beautifully crafted wine from Greg La Follette at a very fair price. (187 cases)
Dutton-Goldfield, 2004 Dutton Ranch-Sanchietti Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $55: Slow-to-open nose of sandalwood and vanilla expands to exhibit toasty brioche and ripe raspberry fruit enhanced by a blueberry note. Extremely elegant and poised with a velvety texture and medium tannins, the wine possesses a deep core of freshly crushed red fruit tinged with blackberry; wonderfully complex and generous, finishing long and lovely. (396 cases)
Holdridge, 2004 Wren Hop Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $36: Captivating nose of red meat, just crushed ripe strawberry, violets and mocha translates fully to the palate of this super-plush Pinot; flavors fairly burst from the glass. A showstopper of a wine that commands attention, this bargain-priced Pinot is supremely elegant, balanced and expressive. (150 cases)
MacPhail, 2004 Toulouse Vineyard, Anderson Valley - $37: A real charmer from one of the valley's premier vineyards. Hints of smoke, rose petal and allspice enhance ripe blackberry-black cherry fruit in the nose. On the palate, the wine is almost meaty, yet also velvety, brimming with luscious black fruit laced with white pepper and finishing long and slightly smoky. Intriguing, different and distinctive, this serious, profound Pinot is meant to age at least five years for optimum enjoyment. (471 cases)
Morgan, 2004 Garys' Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands - $45: From a "grand cru" vineyard in the prime mid-point of the AVA densely planted with the so-called "Pisoni clone" (allegedly from purloined La Tâche cuttings smuggled into California in the early 1980s), this luxuriant Pinot offers forward, slightly toasty aromas of black raspberry, vanilla bean, espresso and minerality. Full bodied, richly textured and brimming with vibrant, ripe, deep, complex raspberry, cassis and black cherry flavors, the wine displays excellent structure and firm, supple tannins, finishing with a note of spice. (300 cases)
Sea Smoke, 2004 Southing, Santa Rita Hills - $50: Alluring scents of blueberry and black cherry, almost to cobbler ripeness, mingle with violets and brown spice. Smooth, rich and supple with firm, ripe tannins, the wine offers a complex array of red cherry-red currant fruit, joined by the black fruit announced by the nose, finishing with a hint of spice-dusted blueberry. (2,400 cases)
Toulouse, 2003 Estate Reserve, Anderson Valley - $42: Astoundingly fragrant nose of vanilla custard, crème brûlée, sour cherry and lightly toasted oak. Complex and expansive on the palate with deep, persistent flavors that echo the nose amid a texture that is almost as viscous as liqueur; ultrasmooth with supple tannins, finishing long with a sour cherry flourish. (300 cases)
Other Outstanding Pinots
Alma Rosa, 2004 Encantada Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills - $47 (500 cases/screwcap)
Etude, 2003 Heirloom, Carneros - $80 (900 cases)
Goldeneye, 2003 Anderson Valley - $52 (5,385 cases)
Goldeneye, 2004 Migration, Anderson Valley - $30 (2,498 cases)
Goldeneye, 2004 Narrows Vineyard, Anderson Valley - $70 (200 cases)
Gypsy Canyon, 2004 Santa Rita Hills - $75 (150 cases)
Hanzell, 2003 Hanzell Vineyards, Sonoma Valley - $87 (880 cases)
Hartford Court, 2004 Seascape Vineyard, Sonoma Coast - $55 (300 cases)
Ici/La Bas, 2002 Les Révélés, Elke Vineyard, Anderson Valley - $39 (550 cases)
Londer, 2004 Paraboll, Anderson Valley - $52 (430 cases)
Lost Canyon, 2004 Saralee's Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $40 (340 cases)
Lynmar, 2004 Quail Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $50 (976 cases)
MacPhail, 2004 Frattey Shams Vineyard, Anderson Valley - $49 (46 cases)
Merry Edwards, 2003 Meredith Estate, Sonoma Coast - $48 (636 cases)
Merry Edwards, 2004 Olivet Lane, Méthode À L'Ancienne, Russian River Valley - $57 (835 cases)
Morgan, 2003 Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands - $45 (50 cases)
Morgan, 2004 Double L Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands - $50 (650 cases)
Orogeny, 2004 Green Valley - $30 (6,699 cases)
Rusack, 2004 Reserve, Santa Rita Hills - $38 (315 cases)
Russian Hill, 2004 Tara Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $42 (395 cases)
Saintsbury, 2004 Brown Ranch, Carneros - $60 (925 cases)
Sea Smoke, 2004 Botella, Santa Rita Hills - $30 (1,100) cases
Siduri, 2005 Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands - $46 (710 cases)
Talley, 2003 Rincon Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley - $50 (490 cases)
Talley, 2004 Rosemary's Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley - $68 (504 cases)
Truchard, 2003 Carneros - $28 (2,178 cases)
Syrah, Petites & Blends
Syrah of the Year
Shafer, 2003 Relentless, Napa Valley - $63: Combining boldness with restraint and concentration with finesse, this magnificent wine remains the benchmark for Syrah excellence in California - although the competition is closing in. Blended with 20% petite sirah, the 2003 Relentless offers intense, heady aromas of freshly crushed blackberry, blueberry, plum compote, cracked black peppercorn and vanilla. Brimming with wild blackberry-blueberry fruit enhanced by Hermitage-like varietal elements of raw meatiness and peppery spice, this mouth-filling heavyweight exhibits chewy, ripe tannins and great concentration; finishes long with a liqueur-like richness. (2,500 cases)
Top Ten Syrahs, Petites &
Rhône Blends of the Year
Ampelos, 2004 Gamma, Sta. Rita Hills - $32: Forward, very fragrant, appealing scents of freshly crushed wild blackberry, shy mocha and a framboise high note. Luscious and velvety-smooth with firm, supple tannins and nicely concentrated, extracted blackberry fruit; fine length and balance with a minerally undertone emerging in the finish. An elegant, yet generous Syrah. (98 cases)
Chiarello Family, 2003 Petite Sirah Roux, Napa Valley - $50: From 93-year-old estate-grown vines, this is a big, chewy Petite, full of luscious, succulent blackberry-black cherry-cassis fruit, dried sage, wet stone minerality and black pepper, all of which are announced by the nose. No funk, just distinctive, deep, concentrated fruit accompanied by firm, ripe tannins. Cellaring required. (116 cases)
Jaffurs, 2004 Ampelos Vineyard, Santa Barbara County - $42: Forward, wildly fragrant nose of white pepper, violets, smoked meat and just-picked, freshly crushed blackberry and black raspberry accented by anise seed and glove leather. Smooth, round and fleshy with deep, generous flavors, this exciting Syrah is bursting with dark berry fruit laced with vibrant white pepper spice; wonderfully complex with a long finish. This could be the Syrah of the Year if only there were more of it. (74 cases)
JC Cellars, 2003 Ventana Vineyard, Monterey - $30: Bold, broadly aromatic nose of ripe black fruit, roasted meat, dried lavender, crushed white and red peppercorns and a wisp of white smoke. Exquisitely balanced with supple tannins and a deep core of liqueur-rich blackberry fruit enhanced by crème de cassis; smooth and round with an extended, fruit-saturated close. (303 cases)
Kenneth-Crawford, 2003 Evans Ranch, Santa Rita Hills - $32: Vanilla-tinged aromas of black raspberry-blackberry liqueur accented by subtle glove leather and white pepper. Juicy and racy with deep flavors of raspberry-blackberry fruit with a high note of wild strawberry, plush texture and medium-full, supple tannins; more white pepper emerges in the extended close. This is a hedonistic wine, perfect for ageing over the next 5 to 8 years. (187 cases)
HdV, 2004 Carneros - $60: Warm, fresh, appealing nose of mocha, dark plum, wild blackberry and brown spice with a black cherry high note. Velvety smooth and seamless with medium tannins and wonderfully concentrated black fruit flavors and underlying notes of game and lavender. A complex, elegant Syrah from the "grand cru" Hyde Vineyard. (936 cases)
Hill Climber, 2003 Monte Rosso, Sonoma Valley - $56: Demonstrating that this legendary vineyard grows great syrah as well as old vine zinfandel, Hill Climber comes from a small block of volcanic, iron-rich soils at nearly 1,400-feet elevation resulting in a structured and intense Syrah. Aromas of hazelnut, vanilla cream and ripe blackberry-black cherry fruit announce the nose. Rich and deeply concentrated on the palate with bold, opulent flavors of wild dark berries, complex mineral and spice notes, and dried lavender that are buoyed by balancing acidity and bolstered by medium-full tannins. (75 cases)
Melville, 2004 Donna's, Santa Rita Hills - $32: Wildly fragrant, liqueur-rich nose of wild blackberry, boysenberry, fresh green herbs and freshly cracked black peppercorns. Velvety smooth and oh-so-juicy with medium tannins and copious raspberry-blackberry fruit accented by black pepper spice; finishes long and seamlessly. (367 cases)
Morgan, 2004 Tierra Mar, Monterey County - $40: Fragrant, distinctive aromas of blueberry and cassis, roasted meat drippings, lavender and white pepper. Plush, juicy and silky smooth in the mouth with a deep core of kirsch-like blackberry-blueberry fruit, this is scrumptious Syrah, enhanced by an excellent structure and ripe, medium-full tannins. (140 cases)
Rosenblum, 2004 Petite Sirah, Pickett Road, Napa Valley - $28: Smoother and richer than past vintages of Pickett Road at this stage - in fact, remarkably polished - with lovely, come-hither aromas of just-crushed blackberry and black pepper spice, mocha, rose petal and allspice. Deep, succulent flavors echo the nose, enhanced by a note of mushroom, and are harmonious and focused, leading to an extended peppery close. Firm tannins argue for a few years of cellaring. Sourced from two old vine vineyards at the foot of the Palisades Mountains near Calistoga. (890 cases)
Other Outstanding Syrahs, Petites & Rhône Blends
Bink Wines, 2003 Hawk's Butte, Yorkville Highlands - $40 (350 cases)
Canihan Family, 2004 Sonoma Valley - $30 (170 cases)
Crane Brothers, 2003 Crane Ranch Vineyard, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley - $40 (280 cases)
Foley, 2004 Rancho Santa Rosa, Santa Rita Hills - $30 (566 cases)
Handley Cellars, 2003 Mendocino County - $20 (572 cases)
JC Cellars, 2004 Petite Syrah, Frediani Vineyard, Napa Valley - $45 (250 cases)
Jaffurs, 2003 Melville Vineyard, Santa Barbara County - $38 (256 cases)
Kenneth-Crawford, 2003 Lafond Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills - $30 (250 cases)
Lafond, 2003 Lafond Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills - $38 (87 cases)
L'Aventure, 2004 Côte à Côte, Paso Robles - $75 (400 cases)
Longoria, 2003 Santa Barbara County - $25 (165 cases)
Madrigal, 2003 Petite Sirah, Napa Valley - $35 (1,700 cases)
Louis M. Martini, 2004 Monte Rosso, Sonoma Valley - $50 (250 cases)
Morgan, 2004 Cotes du Crow's, Monterey - $18 (2,500 cases)
Novy Cellars, 2004 Judge Family Vineyard, Bennett Valley - $32 (321 cases)
Ojai, 2002 Melville Vineyards, Santa Rita Hills - $56 (400 cases)
Joseph Phelps, 2004 Le Mistral, Monterey County - $40 (4,000 cases)
Rosenblum, 2004 Hillside Vineyards, Sonoma County - $25 (2,700 cases)
Rosenblum, 2004 Petite Sirah Reserve, Rockpile Road Vineyard, Rockpile - $45 (825 cases)
Russian Hill, 2003 Top Block, Russian River Valley - $30: (192 cases)
St. Francis, 2003 Sonoma County - $19: (3,000 cases)
Tablas Creek, 2004 Espirit de Beaucastel, Paso Robles - $45 (3,250 cases)
Zaca Mesa, 2002 Santa Ynez Valley - $20 (6,078 cases)
Zinfandel
Zinfandel of the Year
Rancho Zabaco, 2004 Toreador, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $50: The essence of old vine zinfandel, this stylish wine offers heady aromas of liqueur-rich raspberry and ripe red plum, oodles of brown spice and freshly cracked black peppercorn, along with a whiff of French oak. Wickedly rich and extracted on the palate with silky tannins and copious, deep flavors that replicate the nose and don't skimp on the spice, accented by notes of dark chocolate and vanilla; super-smooth texture and a long, peppery finish. Just peeks over the top, but doesn't go there; 15.2% alcohol. (650 cases)
Top Ten Zinfandels of the Year
Armida, 2004 Tre Torrente Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley - $34: Forward, fragrant, appealing, brambly nose of ripe black raspberry and dried lavender. Smooth and seamless with a deep core of kirsch-like black raspberry fruit accompanied by loads of peppery spice and not a hint of over-ripeness; great balance of fruit and acid with medium tannins. (299 cases)
Artezin, 2004 Mendocino (58%), Sonoma (25%), Amador (17%) - $15: Very forward, fragrant, close-to-showy aromas of raspberry and blackberry jam, plus a subtle note of mocha. Clean, smooth and round with medium tannins, the wine's luscious, fruit-forward flavors echo the nose and are perfectly ripe and varietal. A great bargain to boot. (10,500 cases)
Bucklin, 2003 Old Hill Ranch, Sonoma Valley - $30: Made from 115-year-old vines in what is probably the state's most diversely planted field-blend vineyard (predominantly zinfandel, plus grenache, alicante bouchet, petite sirah, carignane, syrah, mourvèdre and 17 other varieties), this exciting Zin exhibits heady aromas of ripe raspberry and sour cherry, toast and vanilla bean with a smoky undertone. On the palate, the wine is bursting with raspberry-blackberry-red cherry fruit and loads of freshly crushed black pepper; the texture is smooth and rich, with medium, fine-grain tannins. Classic Zin for the connoisseur, and a bargain, too. (750 cases)
Robert Biale, 2004 Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $50: A subtle note of bay leaf accents ripe wild berry fruit, peppery spice and crushed-stone minerality. Tasting downright purple, this mountain-grown Zin delivers great extract and rich, opulent flavors of black raspberry and loganberry, and supple, medium-full tannins; long, spicy finish. (380 cases)
Grgich Hills, 2004 Estate Grown, Napa Valley - $30: A claret-style Zin with a Napa Valley estate pedigree, this well-behaved yet exceedingly generous wine offers enticing aromas of wild strawberry and raspberry fruit, some mushroomy decadence and a hint of leather. Co-fermented with 12% petite sirah, the wine's flavors echo the nose and are generous, deep and spicy with medium tannins and fine acid balance. (5,328 cases)
Hanna, 2002 Bismark Ranch, Sonoma - $51: Released early this year, this is heady stuff and so full of rich, ripe, extracted fruit that the 16% alcohol doesn't show through in the aromas or flavors. The nose combines chocolate brownies fresh from the oven with ripe bramble berry. Wonderfully smooth, round and mellow on the palate with loads of very ripe - but not overripe - wild blackberry fruit and intense spiciness, this hedonistic, pull-out-all-the-stops, mountain-top-grown Zin will satisfy even the most passionate Zinfanatic. (547 cases)
Harvest Moon, 2003 Estate, Russian River Valley - $32: The forward, fragrant nose offers German chocolate cake combined with lusciously ripe blackberry-raspberry fruit. Juicy, round and smooth with balancing acidity and medium tannins, this classic Russian River Valley Zin exhibits a deep core of ripe wild berry fruit and plenty of spice, finishing just a bit rustically, which will be cured with another year in the bottle. (420 cases)
JC Cellars, 2004 Iron Hill Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $35: Great peppery nose offering a burst of black raspberry-black cherry liqueur that is more than tempting. Wonderfully rich and concentrated in the mouth, and seemingly trying to be a northern Rhône instead of a Sonoma Zin, the wine's flavors echo the nose and are saturated with fruit extract, accented by crushed-stone minerality, dried lavender and cinnamon-clove spice; long, emphatic close. (179 cases)
Madroña, 2003 30th Anniversary Estate Grown, El Dorado - $38: Forward, fragrant, very appealing aromas of red cherry and raspberry dusted with a dash of sweet brown spice. Somewhere between claret and full blown in style, this foothill Zin is impeccably balanced, delivering a great burst of ripe red fruit and spice. Silky and generous with medium tannins, the wine picks up the characteristics of super-ripe cherry dipped in dark chocolate; finishes with a spicy encore.
(104 cases)
Rosenblum, 2004 Richard Sauret Vineyard, Paso Robles - $20: Forward, intense nose of plummy blackberry fruit accented by a sour cherry high note and copious black pepper spice (from the 10% petite sirah component). Easy, juicy and layered on the palate with medium tannins and generous flavors that replicate the nose, this charming Zin finishes with a note of mocha. This well-crafted, complex, fruit-driven Zin does Paso proud, and is also an exceptional bargain. (5,844 cases)
Other Outstanding Zinfandels
Armida, 2004 Flora Ranch Vineyard, Alexander Valley - $39 (197 cases)
Chiarello Family, 2003 Giana, Napa Valley - $28 (787 cases)
Dry Creek Vineyard, 2004 Heritage, Sonoma County - $15 (8,470)
Handley, 2003 Mendocino County - $20 (1,385 cases)
Harvest Moon, 2003 Russian River Valley - $20 (305 cases)
Madroña, 2002 Reserve, El Dorado - $22 (412 cases)
Rancho Zabaco, 2004 Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $35 (220 cases)
Rosenblum, 2004 Maggie's Reserve, Sonoma Valley - $45 (1,150 cases)
Rosenblum, 2004 Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $40 (938 cases)
Rosenblum, 2004 Rockpile Road Vineyard, Rockpile - $35 (3,488 cases)
The Terraces, 2003 Napa Valley - $25 (685 cases)
Vina Robles, 2003 Westside, Paso Robles - $24 (598 cases)
Chardonnay
Chardonnay of the Year
Grgich Hills, 2004 Estate Grown, Napa Valley - $38: A classy Chardonnay in every respect, offering enticing aromas of acacia blossom, ripe Meyer lemon, honeysuckle, a touch of minerality and a modest dusting of French oak. Full bodied and elegant on the palate with excellent acid balance and expansive flavors of citrus, pear, quince, green apple and spice, this crisp, complex, food-friendly wine remains lively in the mouth, thanks to the absence of malolactic fermentation and the judicious use of French oak (one-third new); long, lemony close. (24,500 cases)
Top Ten Chardonnays of the Year
Beringer, 2004 Private Reserve, Napa Valley - $35: Ample honey notes lead to forward aromas of pineapple, white grapefruit, oak char and dusty ash. Thick flavors of mango, peach, vanilla, bee pollen and oak. Creamy close marked by pencil lead. (22,300 cases) - BL
Brewer-Clifton, 2004 Mount Carmel, Santa Rita Hills - $52: Pretty aromas of lemon-lime citrus, fresh lavender and nut butter. Creamy and silky smooth with tangy acidity, the wine exhibits a noticeable streak of minerality and a fascinating interplay of flavors resembling tropical fruit and tangerine citrus; long, seamless close. (288 cases)
Gary Farrell, 2004 Cresta Ridge Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $38: A touch shy, opening to fresh citrus peel, apple and oak aromas. Rather supple and inviting flavors of ripe pear, peach and vanilla. Loads of nectar-like fruit and a perfect amount of toasted oak mark the close. (604 cases)
- BL
Foley, 2004 Clone 76, Rancho Santa Rosa, Santa Rita Hills - $35: Forward, fragrant, appealing scents of tropical fruit, lemon blossom, pear, vanilla and toasted brioche accented by flinty minerality. Round and near luscious with excellent acidity, this very complex and noble Chardonnay offers the same copious flavors announced by the nose that are deep and intense. (167 cases)
Girard, 2005 Russian River Valley - $22: Fresh, pretty, aromatic scents of lime zest, tropical fruit and lemon blossom. Round, silky smooth and moderately creamy with cleansing acidity, this well-priced Chardonnay delivers complex flavors of succulent pear, lemon, honeydew melon and a subtle note of caramel; lingering, fruity close. Completely barrel fermented in French oak, ten months sur lie and native malolactic provide substance rather than weightiness. (5,500 cases)
Hanzell, 2004 Hanzell Vineyards, Sonoma Valley - $65: Slow-to-open nose of lightly honeyed white grapefruit, lemon chiffon, quince and pastry shell. Richly textured with crisp acidity that finely balances the fruit, the elegant flavors resemble a fruit tart composed of citrus, apple, poached quince and lightly toasted brioche, and are persistent and deep. Meant for ageing, decanting is recommended for this noble Chardonnay in the near term. (4,200 cases)
Lynmar, 2004 Quail Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $40: Forward aromas of roasted lemon and pineapple atop lightly toasted brioche. Satiny smooth and elegant on the palate with lively acidity and abundant, layered flavors that match the nose, enhanced by lime zest, Gravenstein apple, crystallized ginger and wet pebble minerality, this French barrel-fermented, lees-stirred, full-malolactic Chard dances a slow waltz on the palate, trailing off in the extended finish with an impression of kiwi and verbena. Displays a fine pedigree. (1,529 cases)
Melville, 2005 Chardonnay, Clone 76-Inox, Estate Small Lot Collection, Sta. Rita Hills - $30: Fresh, very appealing aromas of lemon-lime citrus, spiced pear, peach skin, gardenia and garden tarragon after a light rain. Juicy and generous with copious, vivacious, clean flavors of slightly creamy citrus, honeydew melon, pear and dried pineapple with an undertone of crushed stone minerality, this unoaked, all-stainless-steel, no-malolactic Chardonnay is a joyful mouthful, perfect for oysters on the half-shell or spicy Thai chicken salad. Decanting recommended for this young wine. (915 cases)
Robert Mondavi, 2004 Reserve, Carneros-Napa Valley - $35: Attractive nose of lemon blossom, Golden Delicious apple and hazelnut. Intensely flavorful with crisp acidity supporting a silky, seamless texture, the wine is juicy, complex and decidedly elegant with copious flavors of citrus, tropical fruit and ripe pear laced with vanilla and crème brûlée. A labor-intensive effort - mostly barrel fermented in French oak (eleven months in barrel), hand stirred during sur lie and partial malolactic - for this much Chardonnay, which makes the price seem quite fair. (81,277 cases) >
Morgan, 2004 Double L Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands - $35: Forward, lifted aromas of roasted lemon and tropical fruit accented by lychee, lightly toasted hazelnut and crème brûlée. Velvety smooth and impressively powerful on the palate with precisely focused flavors that replicate the nose buoyed by cleansing acidity and a subtle oak nuance, this is an exciting Chardonnay expression of the region. (1,200 cases)
Shafer, 2004 Red Shoulder Ranch, Carneros - $43: Bold as ever and showing plenty of oak spice from complete barrel fermentation and 14 months in 50 percent new oak (mostly French), this full-bodied Chardonnay offers exciting, almost breathtaking, aromas and flavors of stone fruit, pineapple, Comice pear and citrus zest, a luscious palate and lively natural acidity thanks to the prevention of malolactic fermentation and the capable winemaking talents of Elias Fernandez. Requiring elaborately flavored cuisine for pairing, or simply to be enjoyed on its own as a stunning example of Carneros Chardonnay at full tilt. (6,000 cases)
Talbott, 2003 Cuvée Cynthia, Monterey County - $55: Forward, appealing aromas of ripe tropical fruit, sweet lemon, white peach, toasted brioche and cinnamon spice translate nicely to an opulently textured palate where the abundant flavors are deep, rich and concentrated, and supported by vibrant acidity. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with no cold stabilization in the grand cru tradition, this exquisitely flavored wine throws some harmless tartrate crystals at the bottom of the bottle, which is an insignificant annoyance for all that richness, flavor and acidity. (800 cases)
Talley, 2004 Rosemary's Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley - $45: Forward, intense, appealing aromas of tropical fruit, green apple, Meyer lemon, toasted hazelnut, freshly grated nutmeg and minerals. Creamy and full bodied with vibrant acidity, this beautifully balanced, cool-climate Chardonnay shows impeccable breed with deep flavors that echo the nose accented by medium-char French oak, finishing long with evident minerality. A "full-blown" (100% barrel fermentation/100% ML) Chardonnay that nevertheless allows the remarkable terroir character of the vineyard (in close proximity to the ocean) to show through. (400 cases)
Other Outstanding Chardonnays
Brewer-Clifton, 2004 Rancho Santa Rosa, Santa Rita Hills - $46 (432 cases)
Brewer-Clifton, 2004 Sweeney Canyon, Santa Rita Hills - $60 (168 cases)
Foley, 2004 Clone 96, Rancho Santa Rosa, Santa Rita Hills - $35 (168 cases)
Grgich Hills, 2003 Estate Grown, Paris Tasting Commemorative, Carneros-Napa Valley - $75 (889 cases)
Handley, 2004 Handley Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley - $19 (2,403 cases)
Morgan, 2004 Hat Trick, Double L Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands - $60 (140 cases)
Morgan, 2004 Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands - $35 (120 cases)
Morgan, 2005 Metallico, Monterey (tank fermented, neutral oak, no ML) - $20 (5,000 cases)
Nickel & Nickel, 2004 Searby Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $40 (1,515 cases)
Nickel & Nickel, 2004 Truchard Vineyard, Carneros-Napa Valley - $40 (1,802 cases)
Saintsbury, 2004 Brown Ranch, Carneros - $40 (945 cases)
Sea Smoke, 2002 Gratis, Santa Rita Hills - $N/A (250 cases)
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 2005 Karia, Napa Valley - $32 (20,500 cases)
Talbott, 2002 Cuvée Audrey, Diamond T Estate, Monterey - $75 (220 cases)
Talley, 2004 Rincon Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley - $38 (490 cases)
Truchard, 2004 Carneros-Napa Valley - $30 (1,728 cases)
Sauvignon Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc of the Year
Cliff Lede, 2005 Napa Valley - $20: Vibrant, spicy aromas of white grapefruit and verbena, accented by apricot and lychee fruit exhibit a pleasantly aromatic, grassy quality reminiscent of lemon grass and straw, enhanced by a note of minerality. Rich and round, yet crisp with lively acidity, this elegant, mouth-filling Sauvignon serves up loads of citrus-pear flavors enlivened by lime zest and minerality. A supremely elegant rendering of the varietal that's easy on the oak and unburdened by malolactic fermentation lingering on the finish. (2,637 cases)
Top Ten Sauvignon Blancs of the Year
Chalk Hill, 2004 Estate Chalk Hill, Russian River Valley - $25: No more Sauvignon Blanc as "faux Chardonnay" from this winery; this is a wonderfully fragrant, varietal Sauvignon offering aromas of white grapefruit mingled with pleasant green herbs and dried rose petal. Elegant and medium-full bodied with bright, balancing acidity, the wine's complex flavors match the nose with the addition of ripe white melon; it never loses the lovely grassiness, which persists into the mineral-tinged close. Barrel fermented (but no malolactic) and blended with small amounts of sémillon and sauvignon gris. (3,000 cases)
Clos Pegase, 2005 Mitsuko's Vineyard, Carneros-Napa Valley - $19: Exuberant nose of gooseberry, freshly cut hay, white grapefruit, succulent pear and quince. The palate is round, slightly creamy and expansive, bursting with grassy citrus and pear, and hinting at minerality. Elegant and exciting, with vibrant acidity and a long, grassy-flinty finish. (1,000 cases / screwcap)
Geyser Peak, 2005 Block Collection River Road Ranch, Russian River Valley - $21: Fresh, aromatic, moderately assertive scents of lemon thyme, flinty minerality, honeydew melon, quince, white grapefruit and lime zest. Tangy and ripe with bright, lively acidity, this beautifully balanced, silky-smooth Sauvignon delivers the deep flavors promised by the nose, leading with grapefruit and a crushed-stone mineral note, and finishing with a squeeze of citrus and subtle grassiness. (2,600 cases)
Honig, 2005 Napa Valley - $15: Fresh and zingy on the nose with forward, fragrant aromas of ripe pear, honeydew melon, ruby red grapefruit and freshly cut grass. Refreshing and delicious with palate-cleansing acidity, this joyful Sauvignon is loaded with ripe fruit announced by the nose and is not afraid to flaunt its varietal grassiness, which resonates in a long, grassy finish. Superior quality at a very fair price. (25,000 cases / synthetic closure)
Robert Mondavi, 2005 Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley - $18: Jasmine-tinged aromas of just-cut hay, Bosc pear, honeydew melon and lemon zest. Round and smooth with lively acidity and copious flavors of white fruit and citrus accented by varietal herbaceousness and mineral notes, the wine impresses with its moderately creamy texture attributable to sur lie aging in both oak and stainless steel. (55,398 cases)
Morgan, 2005 Monterey - $16: Comprised mostly of the aromatically intense musqué clone of sauvignon blanc, along with 12% sémillon and 8% sauvignon blanc, this wine offers forward, tantalizing aromas of sweet pea and gooseberry atop ripe Fuji apple, succulent Comice pear, kiwi and citrus, all of which translate nicely to the round, juicy, almost fleshy, palate, buoyed by crisp acidity and showing fine depth and concentration. Long, gooseberry-marked close. (8,000 cases)
Joseph Phelps, 2005 Napa Valley - $30: Blended with 10% sémillon and fermented sur lie for nine months in a combination of new (15%) and 2- to 3-year-old French oak, this classy, Graves-style Sauvignon entices with aromas of straw and lemon grass atop citrus and honeydew melon. Generous and flavorful with a medium-full body and crisp acidity, the elegant and poised wine delivers deep white fruit-citrus flavors that are enlivened by freshly cut grass and flinty mineral notes, lingering into the extended, white pepper-tinged close. (3,500 cases)
St. Supéry, 2005 Dollarhide, Limited Edition, Napa Valley - $35: Forward, very pleasant and appealing aromas of lemon grass, pink grapefruit, gooseberry, white peach and lime zest. Broad, silky-smooth palate with crisp acidity, delivering generous, lip-smacking flavors that replicate the nose along with the addition of Key lime and guava that are deep and complex. Super-long, grassy finish. (600 cases)
Sauvignon Republic, 2005 Russian River Valley - $18: Nose of grapefruit, lime zest, juicy pineapple and subtle green herbs. Smooth and seamless, as well as fresh and clean on the palate with a medium-full body and crisp acidity, this refreshing Sauvignon offers citrus flavors accented by tropical fruit and pleasant, green herbaceous notes that linger in the mineral-tinged, extended finish. (10,000 cases / screwcap)
White Oak, 2005 Russian River Valley - $15: Bright, forward, slightly floral aromas of white grapefruit, honeydew melon, pear, creamy citrus and freshly cut grass. Smooth, silky and rich on the palate (without heaviness), delivering persistent, delectable flavors that echo the nose, buoyed by vibrant acidity, adding up to an elegant, wonderfully varietal Sauvignon Blanc. (4,875 cases)
Other Outstanding Sauvignon Blancs
Bernardus, 2005 Griva Vineyard, Monterey County-Arroyo Seco - $20 (765 cases)
Brassfield, 2005 High Valley - $15 (2,917 cases)
Chateau St. Jean, 2004 Fumé Blanc, La Petite Etoile Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $20 (2,609 cases)
Dry Creek Vineyard, 2004 Taylor's Vineyard Musqué, Dry Creek Valley - $25 (653 cases)
Dry Creek Vineyard, 2005 Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County - $14 (33,548 cases)
Flora Springs, 2005 Soliloquy, Napa Valley - $25 (1,484 cases)
Gainey, 2005 Limited Selection, Santa Ynez Valley - $20 (2,200 cases)
Geyser Peak, 2005 California - $12 (112,000 cases)
Grgich Hills, 2005 Fumé Blanc, Estate Grown, Napa Valley - $25 (17,400 cases)
Guenoc, 2005 Lake County - $11 (13,000 cases)
Handley, 2004 Handley Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley - $15 (1,540 cases)
Kenwood, 2005 Sonoma County - $13 (144,000 cases) Best Value Selection - BL
Kenwood, 2005 Reserve, Sonoma County - $25 (2,700 cases)
Matanzas Creek, 2004 Sonoma County - $20 (10,000 cases)
Patianna, 2005 Mendocino County - $18 (6,621 cases / screwcap)
Rancho Zabaco, 2005 Reserve, Russian River Valley - $18 (3,800 cases)
Rochioli, 2005 Russian River Valley - $24 (4,270 cases)
St. Supéry, 2005 Napa Valley - $19 (40,000 cases / synthetic closure)
Selene, 2005 Hyde Vineyards, Carneros - $26 (2,236 cases)
Silverado, 2005 Miller Ranch, Napa Valley - $18 (14,300 cases / screwcap)
Two Wives, 2005 Napa Valley - $15 (670 cases)
Voss, 2005 Rutherford - $19 (6,500 cases)
Wildhurst, 2005 Reserve, Lake County - $11 (2,950 cases)
Based in San Francisco, Contributing Editor Steve Pitcher has authored this comprehensive, year-end report since 1997. He can be reached via e-mail at wine2words@aol.com.
