Wine Reviews from Wine News
Tasters' Choice Selections
98 Krug, 1996 Brut
Reims
A heady meld of orange peel and char at first whiff, followed by a slowly unfolding bouquet of peach, banana peel, Sherry and cinnamon. Extremely tart entry with near-biting acidity. The fruit is compact and varied, yet citrus is the lead player supported by brown spice and a steely mineral nuance that presently masks any ripeness. This is Krug for the ages. $300 / 1,075 cases
97 Deutz, 1998 Brut Cuvée William Deutz
Aÿ
Fresh bakery aromas with notes of orange marmalade, caramel and peach. Candied apricot flavors laced with an attractive blend of brioche, almond and charred oak nuances. There is a youthful tartness in the finish that is balanced by a lingering mix of cream and autolysis. $166 / 2,000 cases imported
97 Veuve Clicquot, 1996 La Grande Dame
Reims
Ripe aromas of honeydew and fresh bread dough with hints of Fino Sherry and melted butter. Soft, rich entry emitting a meld of vanilla, biscuit, honey and malt with a bright expression of lemon-infused acidity. Cream and tangerine notes punctuate the close. A streamlined, balanced Champagne from an exemplary vintage. $140 / case production undisclosed
Best Value Selections
94 Gloria Ferrer, NV Blanc de Noirs
Sonoma County
Fresh bakery aromas of almond and caramel. Sweet and buttery with peach and honey flavors. Delicate, sweet finish with lingering notes of warm baguette, nutmeg and vanilla. $20 / 35,000 cases
92 Mumm Napa, NV Blanc de Noirs
Napa Valley
A fresh bouquet of strawberry and cherry juice. Tasty pomegranate and strawberry flavors have plenty of energy. Lingering finish with youthful acidity that cleans up the close nicely. $19 / 40,000 cases
92 Scharffenberger, NV Brut
Anderson Valley
Fresh aromas of butterscotch and croissant with yeasty, bakery notes. Bright peach and apricot flavors with a green apple tartness. Fresh, steely close with a mix of lemon drop and minerals. $19 / 25,000 cases
Publisher's Pick
98 Pommery, 1999 Brut Cuvée Louise Rosé
Reims
Pale blonde hue. A lovely bouquet of biscuit and custard followed by fresh waffle and croissant notes. Delicate pear and apple flavors with hints of dark honey and cream. An elegant, stylish finish with a pure, crème brûlée-like sweetness. $260 / case production undisclosed
California Brut NV & Vintage 90 Codorniu Napa, NV Grand Reserve
Napa Valley
Forward aromas of vanilla, yeast and pecan with a light toastiness. Rather juicy with upfront flavors of peach, honey and apple. Lengthy finish with a youthful, citrusy tartness. $40
92 Domaine Carneros, 2004 Brut
Carneros
Croissant and chalk aromas with hints of flint and citrus. Creamy peach and pear flavors show a steely edge. Lengthy close with a nice balance between minerals, fruit and acid. $25
92 Gloria Ferrer, NV Brut
Sonoma County
Heady aromas of baked apple, orange peel and cinnamon. Soft apple flavors with a mix of caramel, nutmeg and honey accents. An even, lingering finish with a lick of flintiness. $20
90 J Vineyard & Winery, NV Cuvée 20 Brut
Russian River Valley
Flinty mineral aromas with hints of lime peel and vanilla. Fresh and citrusy with crisp, steely acidity. Squeaky-clean close imparts a note of graphite. $32
92 J Vineyard & Winery, 1997 Brut
Late-Disgorged, Russian River Valley
Fresh lemon zest aromas with notes of croissant, vanilla and a wisp of clove. Tempered lemon-lime flavors that soften and turn sweet in the finish. $100
92 J Vineyard & Winery, 1999 Brut
Russian River Valley
Bakery aromas with almond, pecan and pear accents. Yeasty, lemon drop flavors with a hint of autolysis. Brut-like in style with a flinty, citrus peel bite in the close. $50
90 J Vineyard & Winery, 2002 Brut
Russian River Valley
Doughy aromas followed by pungent mineral scents and notes of grapefruit and lime. Dried peach and apricot flavors with a drying, mineral-like influence. Dusty, bone-dry finish. $32
90 Laetitia, NV Brut Cuvée
Arroyo Grande Valley
Zesty citrus aromas with hints of lemon curd and minerals. Rich honeydew melon flavors with tart apple and apricot notes. Youthful acids spark the close with a drying minerality. $18
87 Laetitia, 2004 Brut Coquard
Arroyo Grande Valley
Fresh lemon-lime aromas with notes of vanilla and yeast. Citrusy and flinty with youthful astringency. Sweet finish has cleansing acidity. $30
88 Mumm Napa, NV Brut Prestige
Napa Valley
Shy apple and wet stone aromas with hints of chalk and banana peel. Flinty, classic Brut flavors have a green apple tartness. Very dry finish with a lingering apple juice note. $19
90 Mumm Napa, NV Reserve Brut
Napa Valley
Malty, yeasty scents followed by graphite, pear and apple aromas. Dry, tart citrus flavors show flinty, youthful acidity. Tart apple and apricot notes punctuate the somewhat frothy close. $26
92 Mumm Napa, 2001 Grande Année
Napa Valley
A full bouquet of toast, honey, vanilla, butterscotch and malt. Ripe peach flavors with a buttery nuance. Crisp finish with a combination of citrus and lingering toast. $30
87 Piper-Sonoma, NV Brut Select Cuvée
Sonoma County
Shy charred oak aromas with notes of chalk and yeast. Tart citrus peel flavors with a steely, acidic edge. Youthful, astringent close. $15
92 Roederer Estate, NV Brut
Anderson Valley
Baked apple and toast aromas with a hint of vanilla. Very lively mouth-feel with croissant, honey and orange zest flavors. Crisp acidity reflects a tart, youthful finish. $22
88 Schramsberg, NV Brut Mirabelle
North Coast
Shy aromas of baked apple, bread dough and pecan. Rich with plenty of heft emitting peach, honey and apple butter flavors. Ripe, soft finish with a peanut brittle sweetness. $19
84 Crane Lake, NV Brut
California
- $8
85 Domain Laurier, NV Brut
California
- $12
Blanc de Blancs
NV & Vintage
88 Gloria Ferrer, 2003 Blanc de Blancs
Carneros
Doughy scents of baked apple. Soft, foamy palate with sweet citrus and tart acid backing. Sweet and sour lemon-lime notes on a crisp close. $35
87 Korbel, NV Chardonnay
California
Shy nose with hints of flowers, grapefruit and vanilla. Soft and foamy on entry with cherry juice and lemon pie notes. Moderately crisp, citrus-tinged acids on a drying finish. $12
92 Schramsberg, 2004 Brut Blanc de Blancs
North Coast
Pretty aromas of white bread dough, caramel and apple. Creamy entry with tangy grapefruit and lime with a touch of butterscotch. Continued bread dough notes on a balanced close that shows finesse. $35
Blanc de Noirs
NV & Vintage
88 Korbel, NV Blanc de Noirs
California
Forward and aromatic with red apple and caramel accents. Sweet cherry juice and continued apple flavorings with a bit of residual sugar. Tart, tangy lemon echoes sweet notes in the close. $12
92 Schramsberg, 2004 Brut Blanc de Noirs
North Coast
Ripe aromas of bread dough and grapefruit. Foamy on entry with a touch of malt, lemon fruit and a nice integration of backing acidity. Tart and tangy lemon-lime rind notes in the cleansing finish. $37
Rosé NV, Vintage & Prestige 90 Gloria Ferrer, NV Brut Rosé
Sonoma County
Copper orange hue. Smoky, earthy aromas with obvious pinot noir notes. Candied orange and peach flavors on a rich, frothy texture. Enjoyable, sweet finish with an orange sherbet richness. $42
90 J Vineyards & Winery, NV Brut Rosé
Russian River Valley
Handsome pale salmon hue; ample activity. Nose of rose petals and Asian spice. Soft and delicate entry with tart berry and lemon-lime accents. Tangy on the close with a touch of bitter citrus underpinnings. $35
88 Korbel, NV Brut Rosé
California
Perfectly pink hue. Fresh strawberry and vanilla aromas. Creamy texture with a very pleasant strawberry preserve accent. Lengthy, rather sweet finish that would do just fine as dessert. $12
93 Laetitia, NV Brut Rosé
Arroyo Grande Valley
Attractive tangerine hue. Sweet nose of cherry and light yeast. Soft, very foamy palate with strawberry and light caramel flavorings. Drying on the close with tart cherry- and grapefruit-inspired acidity. $25
91 Roederer Estate, NV Brut Rosé
Anderson Valley
Light copper hue. Aromas of carved pumpkin and vanilla. Very creamy on entry with a meld of cherry and tart strawberry with great integration of citrus-laced acidity. Tangy grapefruit and cherry juice flavors in the cleansing finish. $26
91 Schramsberg, NV Brut Mirabelle Rosé
North Coast
Deep salmon hue. Pretty nose with caramel, brown sugar and baked apple scents. Flavors of mocha and caramel with strawberry hints. Tart close with red fruit highlights and the backing of fresh acidity. $24
89 Schramsberg, 2004 Brut Rosé
North Coast
Copper-bronze hue. Sweet scents of cherry and butterscotch. Foamy on the palate with tart strawberry and rhubarb flavors. Tangy lemon zest in the finish with citrus-laced acidity. $40
Other U.S. Regions
88 Domaine Ste. Michelle, NV Blanc de Blancs
Columbia Valley, Washington
Scents of apricot, honey and lemon. Sweet entry with a creamy texture imparting honey and vanilla flavors. Tart citrus in the cleansing close. $12
88 Domaine Ste. Michelle, NV Brut
Columbia Valley, Washington
Sweet nose of pear and apple. Very foamy and creamy with Key lime pie accents. Tart and zesty in the finish with continued vanilla notes and racy acids. $12
90 Kluge, NV Brut SP Rosé
Albemarle County, Virginia
Blood orange hue. Mixed aromas of cherry, espresso bean and cured ham. Juicy and tart with strawberry and peach pit flavors. Fruit-driven close with plenty of staying power. $45
85 Domaine Ste. Michelle, NV Blanc de Noirs
Columbia Valley, Washington
- $12
85 Kluge, 2004 Brut SP Blanc de Blancs
Albermarle County, Virginia
- $30
Australia
86 Clover Hill, 2003 Brut
Tasmania, Australia
Mixed scents of vanilla, pear and wheat bran. Juicy lemon custard flavors. Hints of minerals in the white peach-driven close. $32
88 Greg Norman, NV Chardonnay Pinot Noir
South Australia
Fresh aromas of lemon and raspberry with a hint of sourdough bread. Crisp acidity and juicy flavors of lemon cream and green apple. Elements of brioche in the juicy finish. $15
85 Yellowtail, NV Sparkling Wine
Southeast Australia
- $11
France
86 Charles de Fère, NV Blanc de Blancs Réserve
Vin Mousseux de Qualité
Very shy honey aromas. Clean on entry with pink grapefruit flavors and a foamy chiffon mouth-feel. Delicate vanilla notes in the soft finish. $11
86 Louis Bouillot, NV Perle d'Aurore Rosé
Crémant de Bourgogne
Deep salmon hue; moderate activity. Scents of red apple and rose petals. Sweet red berry flavors with lime highlights. Tart and drying in the close with apple and caramel notes. $16
86 Louis Bouillot, NV Perle de Nuits
Crémant de Bourgogne
Foxy nose of coffee and charred oak. Buttery on entry with vanilla overtones and berry notes. Sweet finish leaves red fruit impressions. $16
Champagne
Brut NV & Vintage
93 Aubry, NV Brut
Premier Cru, Jouy-les-Reims
A bouquet of toasted oak, baked apple and honey. Upfront red apple flavors with nutmeg and flint accents. While imparting a rigid, classic Brut style, the wine kept improving in the glass. $46
92 Besserat de Bellefon, NV Brut
Cuvée des Moines, Épernay
A mix of citrus peel and beer barrel aromas. Lively peach and mineral flavors with fresh acidity emitting a true Brut style. Youthful, squeaky-clean finish with a yeasty note. $35
92 Billecart-Salmon, NV Brut
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Heady cured ham aromas with chalky accents. Ripe peach, pear and lime flavors with nectar-like texture and sweetness. Excellent length and depth. $40
93 Bollinger, NV Brut Special Cuvée
Aÿ
Rather ripe aromas of sliced apple, nutmeg and beer. Baked apple, fig and mocha flavors show a steely edge; red berry notes emerge slowly. A tart, youthful finish with acidic backbone. $55
94 Bollinger, 1999 Brut
La Grande Année, Aÿ
Pretty bouquet of pineapple, grapefruit and lemon aromas. Great integration with tart apple, sweet caramel and spice flavors perfectly melded with peach and lemon notes, and cleansing, citrus-laced acidity. Tart and tangy with green apple and light malty nuances in the close. $125
93 Bruno Paillard, NV Brut
Première Cuvée, Reims
Fresh bread dough aromas followed by sweet citrus scents. Balanced and very fresh with baked apple, vanilla and drying mineral flavors. Crisp, classic Brut finish with the perfect amount of fruit to balance the zing. $48
93 Bruno Paillard, 1996 Brut Millésimé
Reims
Lovely toasted aromas coupled with a vanilla wafer accent. A mix of fresh apricot and peach flavors with an aged beery note. Fresh acidity caps the close. $77
94 Charles Heidsieck, NV Brut Réserve
Reims
An attractive bouquet of cooked peaches, charred oak and minerals. A well-toasted triad of tropical fruit flavors including grilled pineapple, baked apple and peach. Lengthy, honeyed finish with the perfect amount of toast. $30
95 Chartogne-Taillet, NV Cuvée Ste.-Anne
Merfy
Fresh croissant aromas with notes of vanilla, honey and pecan. Very creamy and buttery mix of beer barrel and ripe peach flavors with a hint of autolysis at the right moment. This vinous dream continues in the finish with apple butter, honey and lightly toasted flavors that impart a silky texture. $46
90 Delamotte, NV Brut
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Fresh baguette and caramel aromas. Ripe peach flavors with tangy lemon drop accents. Very Brut in style with crisp acidity and lingering flintiness. $50
87 Delbeck, NV Brut Heritage
Reims
Flinty aromas with a hint of charred oak. Lemon curd and yeast flavors with a pungent earthiness. Dry, enjoyable finish, however, loses a little steam in terms of fruit. $50
88 Deutz, NV Brut Classic
Aÿ
A bouquet of vanilla, lemon drop and chalk. Dry mineral and citrus flavors possess youthful astringency. Crisp, zesty, lemon peel finish. $40
91 Deutz, 2000 Brut
Aÿ
Nose of baked apple, butterscotch and light bread dough. Foamy on the palate with bright apple, pear and grapefruit-inspired acids. Ultra-Brut-like with a tart, drying, crisp close. $60
91 Duval-Leroy, NV Brut
Vertus
Forward aromas of pecan, caramel and smoky oak. Tangy and acidic with a burst of orange flavor. Chalky finish has a lingering toastiness. $32
95 Duval-Leroy, 1996 Brut
Vertus
Yeasty, fresh dough aromas with an uplifting pecan pie note. Enticing flavors of peach, nutmeg and peanut brittle. Great depth of fruit as well as length with an overall acidic structure that reflects the vintage. $60
91 Duval-Leroy, 2001 Brut Paris
Vertus
Light toastiness frames yeast and flinty aromas. Peach and apple flavors with an edge of maltiness. Creamy finish with a mix of peach and minerals. $48
88 G.H. Mumm, NV Brut Cordon Rouge
Reims
Fresh lemon zest aromas with notes of bread dough and malt. Upfront sweetness followed by a light chalkiness. Soft, creamy close has a drying mineral nuance. $37
88 Gaston Chiquet, NV Brut Tradition
Premier Cru, Dizy
Lemon-fresh aromas join flavors of mixed citrus laced with steely acids. Softer finish reflects vanilla extract, but fresh citrus is the central theme. $46
93 Goutorbe, NV Brut Cuvée Prestige
Premier Cru, Aÿ
Attractive bouquet of nutmeg, brioche and honeyed pecan. Contrary to the nose, a somewhat crisp wine with tart red fruit, citrus and apple flavors. Vibrant orange peel and a youthful astringency cap the finish. One would expect this wine to continue to improve. $52
94 H. Billiot Fils, NV Brut Réserve
Grand Cru, Ambonnay
Exotic scents of gingerbread and poached pear with secondary nuances of raspberry and quince. Sweet flavors of wild cherry and crème brûlée. Lingering impressions of raspberry and toasted brioche in the velvety close. $60
86 Henri Abelé, NV Brut 1757
Reims
Pungent, earthy aromas with charcoal and light citrus accents. Peach flavors with a drying mineral nuance. The finish sweetens up then flattens out. $30
91 Henriot, NV Brut Souverain
Reims
Mature aromas of brown spice, honey, pecan, vanilla and yeast. Rich flavors of pineapple and caramel with an enhancing aged nuance. Bright acids power up the close with a lingering toastiness. $40
95 Henriot, 1998 Brut Millésimé
Reims
Attractive aromas of cinnamon and apple butter. Lush and quite creamy with butterscotch, caramel and taffy apple flavors. Excellent length with a mix of toasted oak and brown spices. Drinking nicely right now. $70
94 Jean Lallement, NV Brut
Grand Cru, Verzenay
Peanut brittle and honey aromas. Pure and juicy with nectar-like flavors of peach, apple butter, cream and banana. Lengthy, exceedingly rich finish with brown spice and caramel. $56
90 Laurent-Perrier, NV Brut L-P
Tours-sur-Marne
Shy aromas with notes of chalk, vanilla and light toast. Delicate, soft and creamy with a mix of orange, vanilla and mineral flavors. Lingering, controlled sweetness in the close. $42
89 Laurent-Perrier, 1999 Brut Millésimé
Tours-sur-Marne
Scents of freshly cut apple with 7-Up-like notes. Soft palate-feel with lime zest flavors and a big backing of apple-laced acidity. Tart with just a hint of green fruit in the close. $60
90 Louis Roederer, NV Brut Premier
Reims
A bouquet of fresh baguette and toasted barrel with a hint of chalkiness. Very citrusy on the palate with lemon and lime flavors laced with youthful acidity. Zesty, dry finish has a steely edge. $43
96 Louis Roederer, 2000 Brut
Reims
Sweet nose of caramel, light yeast and apple. Very creamy entry with a meld of malty beer flavors and a nice integration of lemon-lime acidity. Focused with a ribbon of caramel and butter that linger throughout the spicy close. $72
91 Marc Hébrart, NV Brut Cuvée Réserve
Premier Cru, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Complex scents of chalk, minerals and bread dough with a touch of lime. Vibrant acidity joins racy flavors of lemon and lime zest with a softening vanilla note in the finish. $46
90 Margaine, NV Brut Cuvée Traditionellé
Premier Cru, Villers-Marmery
Refreshing scents of lemon curd, brioche and apple cider. Sweet, juicy yellow apple flavors. Soft acidity and hints of crème brûlée in the close. $46
94 Moët & Chandon, 2000 Brut
Grand Vintage, Épernay
Attractive aromas of brioche and lemon zest. Creamy entry with a nice integration of vanilla, green apple and balanced acidity. Tart and drying finish has a focus on citrus. $85
88 Nicolas Feuillatte, NV Brut Blue Label
Chouilly, Épernay
Fresh citrus aromas with a whiff of clove. Soft and somewhat full on the palate with ripe peach and brown sugar flavors. Fresh acidity kicks up in the close coupled with a drying flintiness. $30
88 Nicolas Feuillatte, 1997 Brut Cuvée 225
Chouilly, Épernay
Chalky, wet stone aromas with apple hints. Tart grapefruit flavors with apple and charred oak notes. Steely, biting close that needs to soften a bit; should improve with a little bottle age. $100
91 Nicolas Feuillatte, 1999 Brut Millésimé
Cuvée Spéciale, Chouilly, Épernay
Pretty nose of buttered bread, yeast and vanilla. Great integration with accents of caramel and brioche with the deft integration of buttery acids. Crisp, clean finish with a continuing buttery edge amid a touch of vanilla. $65
86 Oudinot, NV Cuvée Brut
Épernay
Light charred aromas with a pungent wet stone scent. Frothy, sweet apple flavors sport a cotton candy-like richness. Stylistically sweet and creamy; finishes on a near-cloying note. $30
88 Pehu-Simonet, NV Brut Sélection
Grand Cru, Verzenay
Reserved scents of lemon and raspberry. Razor-sharp acidity frames green apple flavors. Impressions of slate and flint in the green apple-driven close. $52
92 Perrier-Jouët, NV Grand Brut
Épernay
Dried apricot and toasted oak aromas. Clean with a nectar-like texture giving way to a creamy effervescence accented by pineapple and peach flavors. A slight chalkiness in the finish balances the lingering sweetness. $40
94 Philipponnat, NV Brut
Royal Réserve, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Baked apple, honey and nutmeg aromas with a hint of autolysis. Evolved, creamy flavors of peach, caramel and baguette. Excellent length with a defined aged nuance coupled with dried fruit and minerals in the close. $35
91 Philipponnat, 1999 Brut
Réserve Millésimée, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Pretty nose of white bread, yeast and vanillin. Very foamy entry with continued vanilla that carries nutty highlights. Soft mouth-feel in the lush finish with lovely hints of spice and lemon curd. $65
91 Piper-Heidsieck, NV Brut
Reims
Bakery aromas followed by lemon drop, vanilla and chalk. Expressive citrus peel, chalk and charred oak flavors. Very fresh, clean close with balance between minerals and lively citrus fruit. $35
92 Piper-Heidsieck, 2000 Brut
Reims
Nose of buttered bread and yeasty scents that complement a hint of nuttiness. Soft foamy vanilla entry that accompanies a meld of butterscotch with ample backing acidity. Tart lemon notes ring on a cleansing close. $42
94 Pol Roger, NV Brut
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
Ripe aromas of pecan pie, honey and caramel. Rich and promising with taffy apple, brown spice and charred oak. Lasting finish with a fruit cake-like sweetness laced with a nutty, aged nuance. $45
93 Pol Roger, 1998 Brut
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
A whiff of autolysis right up front followed by butterscotch, peach and caramel. Citrus and baked apple flavors with a lovely charred oak nuance that carries through to the close. $84
91 Pommery, NV Brut Apanage
Reims
Bright aromas of apple and cinnamon. Juicy baked apple and honey flavors have plenty of heft. Ripe, lengthy finish with dried fruit notes and just a wisp of charred oak. $50
92 Pommery, NV Brut Royal
Reims
Orange peel and toasted baguette aromas. Ripe flavors of grilled pineapple and vanilla with a hint of autolysis. Honeyed, caramel-like flavors in the finish with a lingering aged character that adds to the wine's complexity. $42
90 Pommery, 1998 Brut
Grand Cru, Reims
Heady charred oak and citrus aromas. Apple cider flavors with notes of beer and minerals. Steely, flinty close; however, ends on a balanced, sweet note. $80
91 René Geoffroy, NV Brut Cuvée Expression
Premier Cru, Cumières
Complex scents of toasted bread, ale and almond with secondary nuances of vanilla and Oloroso Sherry. Creamy flavors of lemon and marzipan. Impressions of candied lime in the silky finish. $52
90 Taittinger, NV Brut La Française
Reims
Fresh lemon zest aromas with buttery pecan accents. Frothy and rich with a mix of minerals, yeast and citrus. The close is youthful and tart with both red and white fruit flavors. $45
92 Taittinger, NV Brut Prélude
Grands Crus, Reims
Sweet citrus and charred oak aromas. Peach and apple flavors with a lovely toasted nuance running throughout. Buttery, lengthy finish with caramel and honey accents. $65
89 Taittinger, 2000 Brut Millésimé
Reims
Nose of sour apple, orange peel and citrus. Crisp entry with a ribbon of vanilla, and sweet and sour lime. Creamy notes on the close with continued apple-spiked acidity. $66
91 Tarlant, NV Brut Cuvée
Oeuilly
Exotic aromas of pecan, honey and brown spice with a whiff of brine. Tart and steely with citrus and mixed grain flavors. Very crisp structure, however, there is an aged nuance in the finish that adds to the complexity of the fruit. $65
92 Veuve Clicquot, NV Brut
Reims
Lovely bouquet of fresh bread dough, chalk and vanilla. Ripe apple flavors laced with vanilla and pecan. Creamy finish with an enhancing note of autolysis. $39
95 Veuve Clicquot, 1999 Brut
Reims
Pretty bouquet of orange peel, freshly buttered bread and light malt. Great balance and finesse with tart citrus and caramel flavors, and soft acid backing. Foamy notes in the close with a touch of spicy ginger in this well-integrated wine. $70
Blanc de Blancs
NV, Vintage & Prestige
92 Besserat de Bellefon, NV Blanc de Blancs
Cuvée des Moines, Épernay
Fresh vanillin scents with heady bakery notes. Lemon drop flavors with ripe apple and white frosting accents. Sweet finish with balancing, youthful acidity and a lasting grapefruit tang. $65
91 Billecart-Salmon, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Shy at first, then opening to vanilla, chalk and buttered popcorn aromas. White peach flavors have steely, razor-sharp acidity. Doughy close shows a hint of lime zest. $70
92 Bruno Paillard, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Réserve Privée, Reims
Lemon-lime aromas followed by vanilla and chalk. Frothy, creamy mouth-feel that turns crisp and steely with an edge of charred oak. Classic Brut style with a flinty, near-peppery finish. $69
93 Charles Heidsieck, 1995 Blanc des Millénaires
Reims
Buttery toast and white flower aromas with a whiff of autolysis. Charred oak, hazelnut and nutmeg flavors have a defined creaminess. Lingering toasted nuance in the close with tart dried fruit notes. $110
89 Delamotte, 1999 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Pretty nose of malt and light autolysis with a hint of burnt toast. Creamy on entry with a meld of sweet vanilla and a continued malt presence. Spicy citrus notes come forward on the finish with creamy lemon highlights. $90
92 Deutz, 2002 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Aÿ
Scents of bread dough and yeast with light floral notes. Tart lemon and lime fruit with a good backing of citrus-laced acidity. Drying, crisp close has delicate citrus structure. $88
93 Dom Ruinart, 1996 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Reims
Toasted oak, almond and banana peel aromas. Peach, vanilla and banana flavors with steely, crisp acids. Mineral and citrus peel flavors cap the finish that shows a youthful astringency. $180
92 Duval-Leroy, 1998 Blanc de Chardonnay
Vertus
Nice nose of brioche, lemon curd and flowers. Crisp and creamy on entry with a balance of lemon chiffon and tart grapefruit. Tangy close with spiced apple and lime nuances. $60
92 Henriot, NV Brut Blanc Souverain
Pur Chardonnay, Reims
Fresh toasted baguette aromas with a chalk note. Grilled pineapple and peach flavors with a lick of beer barrel. Flinty, chalky, bone-dry finish. $48
92 Lancelot-Royer, NV Cuvée des Chevaliers
Grand Cru, Cramant
Fresh peach, vanilla and caramel aromas. Tasty apple and peach flavors laced with youthful acidity and a light beery note. Ripe, honeyed close with grilled pineapple and a youthful citrus sting. $45
93 Louis Roederer, 2000 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Reims
Buttery lemon scents have a slight yeastiness. Rich apple, apricot and peach flavors with an edge of fresh acidity. Excellent length and weight leaving lasting peach, toasted almond and vanilla impressions. $72
90 Mumm de Cramant, NV Brut Chardonnay
Grand Cru, Reims
Shy, slow-evolving aromas of grapefruit and chalk. Rich peach-like flavors of pecan and butterscotch with a lingering doughy nuance. Creamy finish. $60
94 Nicolas Feuillatte, 1998 Brut Chardonnay
Chouilly, Épernay
Beautiful bouquet of fresh baked bread, brioche and apple. Great flavor on entry with a meld of creamy lemon, spicy citrus and perfectly integrated lime-soaked acidity. Tart, spicy close that rings with lemon and grapefruit. $40
93 Philipponnat, 1999 Brut Grand Blanc
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Sweet aromas of butterscotch, brown sugar, white bread and vanilla. Soft and foamy on the palate with a ribbon of buttery rum and sweet orange. Crisp and creamy in the smooth finish that features an edge of tart lime. $78
91 Pierre Peters, NV Brut Cuvée de Réserve
Grand Cru, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Sweet dough aromas followed by chalk, graphite and grapefruit. Tart peach and apricot flavors with a lick of white frosting. Chalk-dry close with a citrus peel bite. $52
90 Ruinart, NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
Reims
Minerally aromas of chalk and wet stone with hints of lime peel. Creamy texture with a core of citrus fruit and pinpoint acidity. The finish is soft and rather sweet with ripe honeydew melon notes. $70
96 S Salon, 1996 Brut Blanc de Blancs
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Delicate aromas of fresh baguette, pecan and chalk with a whiff of Fino Sherry. Bright citrus flavors with mixed caramel, butterscotch and drying mineral notes that mesh nicely in the close. A broad-shouldered wine with the stuffing needed for aging. $350
94 Taittinger, 1998 Comtes de Champagne
Reims
Delicate, slow-opening aromas of pecan, toasted oak and caramel. Lively peach and pear flavors with a hint of autolysis. Very crisp, youthful finish that imparts a drying flintiness. $172
94 Varnier-Fannière, NV Blanc de Blancs
Grand Cru, Avize
Buttery brioche aromas spiked by vanilla and chalk with a note of bay leaf. Steely grapefruit and lemon-lime flavors laced with pinpoint acidity. Yeasty, clean-as-a-whistle close. $56
Prestige NV & Vintage
96 Henriot, 1995 Cuvée des Enchanteleurs
Reims
Fresh-baked brioche notes accented by lemon zest and red apple. Creamy, exotic flavors of banana, caramel and cream with a lively citrus core. Lengthy, honeyed finish has an apple butter richness. $130
94 Laurent-Perrier, NV Brut Grand Siècle
Tours-sur-Marne
Creamy caramel aromas of lemon curd, honey and yeast. Baked apple and grapefruit flavors possess caramel sweetness. Delicate orange cream close with a lick of apple juice. $110
93 Louis Roederer, 2000 Brut Cristal
Reims
Doughy toasted grain aromas. Tart lemon-lime flavors have a frothy mouth-feel. This is a young, energized, well-structured Champagne with bracing acidity that sweetens-up in the finish. $240
93 Moët & Chandon, 1999 Dom Pérignon
Épernay
Flinty aromas of pear, yeast and light toast. Rather sweet right up front followed by ginger, apple and ripe peach flavors. The sweetness continues in the close with a hefty lick of marzipan. $160
95 Nicolas Feuillatte, 1997 Brut Palmes d'Or
Épernay
Mixed aromas of toasted grains, caramel and beer. Sweet and doughy with vanilla, malt and tart citrus. Lengthy finish with a mix of brioche, citrus and baked apple. $120
93 Perrier-Jouët, 1999 Fleur de Champagne
Épernay
Lightly charred aromas of pear, bread dough and vanilla extract. Ripe honeydew melon, pear and almond flavors. Very soft close exhibits hints of lemon zest and drying minerals. $140
96 Philipponnat, 1997 Brut Clos des Goisses
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Heady aromas of Asian spice, maple, ginger and clove. Apple and apricot flavors laced with fresh acidity. Still very young and taut, however, plenty of citrus fruit and brown spice slowly unfolding in the lengthy finish. $180
96 Pol Roger, 1998 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill
Épernay
Forward aromas of baked apple, almond and toast with a whiff of Sherry. Fresh tarte tatin, ginger and vanilla flavors laced with lively acidity. Lengthy, youthful close shows great aging potential. $211
94 Pommery, 1998 Brut Cuvée Louise
Reims
Fresh lemon drop and charred oak aromas with a note of biscuit. Very crisp, toasty and zesty citrus flavors combine with a defined minerality. Apple and a drying flintiness cap the finish. $185
Rosé
NV, Vintage & Prestige
93 Besserat de Bellefon, NV Brut Rosé
Cuvée des Moines, Épernay
Salmon hue with an active bead. Fresh citrus aromas with toasted almond and chalk accents. Rich orange and strawberry flavors have a youthful bite. Lively, tangy finish shows a spate of fresh acidity. $46
92 Billecart-Salmon, NV Brut Rosé
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Copper hue. Fresh aromas of cherry juice, strawberry and yeast. Rather crisp and stylish with strawberry and orange flavors. Tangy, youthful close has a metallic bite. $70
93 Charles Heidsieck, 1999 Brut Rosé
Reims
Deep copper hue. White frosting aromas with hints of sliced orange, brown spice and toast. Sweet with effervescent orange and almond flavors, and hints of brown spice. Creamy, lasting finish with an apple butter richness. $75
93 Delamotte, NV Brut Rosé
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Viscous copper hue. Fresh cherry and apple juice aromas. Ripe red fruit flavors with a drying mineral influence. Apple and orange join the fruit mélange and finish on an earthy, flinty note. $77
92 Delbeck, NV Brut Heritage Rosé
Reims
Burnished copper hue. Earthy cherry aromas with a note of clove. Lush and creamy with orange, apple and cherry flavors. Rich, tangy close with a lingering apple juice-like sweetness. $60
93 Deutz, 2002 Brut Rosé
Aÿ
Pale salmon hue with a persistent mousse. Inviting scents of raspberry and pear with secondary nuances of ginger and allspice. Sweet, juicy flavors of cider, raspberry and pomegranate. Impressions of vanilla in the creamy close. $75
92 Dom Ruinart, 1996 Brut Rosé
Reims
Copper hue. Earthy, minerally aromas of graphite, orange marmalade and raspberry. Soft dried fruit flavors with a note of Sherry. Very calm, easy-drinking finish with near still wine-like texture and weight. $400
93 Duval-Leroy, NV Brut Rosé de Saignée
Vertus
Salmon hue with an active bead. Forward aromas of red licorice, honeyed pecans and caramel. Exceedingly effervescent with honey, ginger and clove flavors. Creamy, lasting close with a mix of red fruit and brown spice. $55
92 Henriot, 2002 Brut Rosé Millésimé
Reims
Bright copper hue. Fresh scents of raspberry and lemon with a hint of French toast. Bright acidity and juicy flavors of lemon and orange marmalade. A touch of vanilla and toasted oak in the apple cider-spiked close. $80
93 Laurent-Perrier, NV Brut Cuvée Rosé
Tours-sur-Marne
Orange-copper hue. Forward aromas of cherry, honey and pecans. Frothy and sweet with cherry and raspberry flavors that impart a defined richness. Soft, creamy finish with lasting red fruit notes. $80
94 Louis Roederer, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Dense copper-gold hue. Complex scents of lemon, Golden Delicious apple, toast and allspice. Silky acidity and creamy flavors of raspberry compote and quince paste. Layers of toasted croissant and cider in the endless close. $72
91 Moët & Chandon, 2000 Brut Rosé
Grand Vintage, Épernay
Orange-bronze hue; ample activity. Lightly sweet cherry and grapefruit aromas. Soft and very foamy palate-feel on entry with spiced apple and rhubarb flavors. Tart, tangy citrus-laced acidity shows well in the active finish. $85
89 Mumm, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Deep rust-orange hue; quite effervescent. Sweet baked apple scents with lemon-lime suggestions. Creamy entry of strawberry and grapefruit flavors. Tart and dry with creamy citrus in the close. $52
90 Nicolas Feuillatte, NV Brut Rosé
Chouilly, Épernay
Deep salmon hue; streams of fine bubbles. Aromas of cherry and vanilla. Soft and delicate with great finesse and tart lemon-lime-infused acids. Orange flavors dominate in the finish with grapefruit-inspired acidity. $43
93 Nicolas Feuillatte, 2000 Rosé
Cuvée Palmes d'Or, Épernay
Deep blood orange hue. Earthy strawberry and pinot aromas with a note of graphite. Juicy flavors of cherry, strawberry and cinnamon. Great length with lasting ripe strawberry impressions and a lick of chalk. $175
93 Perrier-Jouët, NV Brut Blason Rosé
Épernay
Deep reddish-copper hue. Ripe cherry and smoky cured ham aromas. Very grapy with a flush of red fruit flavors. Plump, full-bodied finish with pomegranate and apple butter notes. $60
92 Philipponnat, NV Brut Rosée
Réserve, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
Bright copper hue. Pungent strawberry and nutmeg aromas. Rich orange and vanilla flavors with a metallic bite. Youthful, somewhat crisp close with a mix of orange peel and minerals. $60
86 Piper-Heidsieck, NV Brut Rosé Sauvage
Reims
Deep blood red hue; streams of active bubbles. Shy nose with light cherry scents. Soft entry with candied fruit and sweet cherry notes. Spicy cherry finish. $50
93 Pol Roger, 1999 Brut Rosé
Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Épernay
Burnished copper hue. Dusty and doughy with ripe orange and cranberry aromas. Rich strawberry flavors with a note of chalkiness. This is a wine with heft as well as depth of fruit, finishing on a generous sweet note. $90
93 Pommery, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Intense copper hue. Delicate strawberry aromas with hints of brown spice and orange peel. Fresh orange zest and cherry flavors have lively acidity. Lengthy close with a lingering cherry juice sweetness. $70
94 Ruinart, NV Brut Rosé
Reims
Burnished copper hue. Toasted baguette, almond and pinot noir aromas. Ripe cherry flavors with a hint of orange zest and youthful flintiness. Baked apple, red plum and light yeastiness join in the lingering close. $70
93 Taittinger, NV Brut Prestige Rosé
Reims
Deep orange-bronze hue; ample and active effervescence. Hints of toast with big red fruit impressions in the nose. Pretty flavors on entry that showcase strawberry and cherry fruit with a nice backing of sweet citrus. Tart finish with creamy berry and lemon. $75
94 Taittinger, 2002 Comtes de Champagne Rosé
Reims
Deep copper hue. Uplifting aromas of orange peel, strawberry, espresso bean and croissant. Frothy and sweet with orange zest, pomegranate and cinnamon flavors. Cranberry and red licorice cap the finish with a lingering toastiness. $210
97 Veuve Clicquot, 1995 La Grande Dame Rosé
Reims
Orange-copper hue. Heady, uplifting aromas of cured ham, maple, butterscotch and banana peel. Mouth-filling flavors of orange, Fino Sherry and glazed apricot. Memorable, soft, creamy close. $300
90 Veuve Clicquot, 2002 Brut Rosé
Reims
Light ruby hue. Rich scents of raspberry and wild cherry with additional complexities of wintergreen and Fino Sherry. Vibrant acidity and foamy flavors of raspberry and cherry. Ripe cherry notes in the sweet finish. $70
Spain
88 Montsarra, NV Brut Cava
Spain
Complex scents of yeast, bread dough, vanilla and peach. Sweet, juicy flavors of white peach and Granny Smith apple. Crisp acidity and continued impressions of apple cider in the lingering close. $16
87 Segura Viudas, NV Reserva Heredad
Torrelavit
Elegant scents of bread dough, vanilla and lemon cream. Juicy flavors of white peach and lemon custard. Crisp acidity and peach notes in the long finish. $20
84 Freixenet, 2000 Brut Nature Cava
Sant Sadurni d'Anoia
- $14
83 Freixenet, NV Cordon Negro Brut Cava
Spain
- $10
85 Segura Viudas, Aria, NV Estate Brut Cava
Sant Sadurni d'Anoia
- $12
84 Segura Viudas, NV Brut Reserva Cava
Torrelavit
- $10
Tutored Tastings
Louis Roederer Cristal
The following wines were reviewed by Buyline member Abe Horowitz on February 29 at the Miami Beach Convention Center as part of the South Beach Food & Wine Festival. The wines were not tasted blind.
92 Louis Roederer, 1999 Cristal
Reims
Pale gold hue with tiny bubbles. Inviting scents of vanilla, lemon cream and bread dough. Creamy lemon custard flavors. Hints of minerals and crème brûlée in the lemony close. $211
94 Louis Roederer, 1996 Cristal
Reims
Yellow hue. Powerful scents of lemon, vanilla, brioche and candied ginger. Racy acidity frames juicy flavors of lemon and peach. Hints of raspberry and allspice in the endless close. $N/A
95 Louis Roederer, 1995 Cristal
Reims
Appealing scents of lemon, vanilla and gingerbread. Creamy flavors of lemon custard, vanilla cream and Golden Delicious apple. Rich and round with supple notes of orange and cream in the soft close. $N/A
96 Louis Roederer, 1990 Cristal
Reims
Powerful scents of toasted bread, pecan and ginger. Juicy flavors of Golden Delicious apple, Asian pear and quince. Soft acidity and touches of minerals and white peach in the delicate close. $247
93 Louis Roederer, 1989 Cristal
Reims
Inviting scents of apple cider, vanilla and French toast. Powerful acidity marks racy flavors of white peach and lemon. Crème brûlée impressions in the minerally close. $N/A
90 Louis Roederer, 1988 Cristal
Reims
Pungent scents of slate and Sherry. Buttery acidity on elegant flavors of lemon and grapefruit. Hints of jasmine and white peach in the lingering close. $N/A
97 Louis Roederer, 1982 Cristal
Reims
Deeply burnished gold hue with pinpoint bubbles. Heady aromas of ginger, candied pineapple and petrol with secondary nuances of mace and poached pear. Vinous, rich flavors of white peach and orange zest. Lingering notes of French toast, gingerbread and raspberry in the eternal finish. $N/A
94 Louis Roederer, 1979 Cristal
Reims
Golden hue; pinpoint bubbles form a delicate mousse. Exotic scents of hazelnut, blanched almonds and Fino Sherry. Racy acidity and lively flavors of white peach and Granny Smith apple. Hints of vanilla and toasted brioche in the lemon cream close. $N/A
Freemark Abbey
The following wines were reviewed by guest contributor John Intardonato on July 25 during a retrospective tasting at Freemark Abbey in St. Helena, California, led by Ted Edwards, chief winemaker for Freemark Abbey. The wines were not tasted blind.
80 Freemark Abbey, 1977 Cabernet Bosche
Napa Valley
Deep russet hue. Scents of coffee and ripe plum. Ripe jam, cedar and tobacco flavors. Crisp, dry finish. $N/A
86 Freemark Abbey, 1984 Cabernet Bosche
Napa Valley
Dark garnet hue. Scents of Rutherford dust, plum and ripe cherry. Spicy flavors of plum, green olive and mushroom, finishing with coffee-infused tannins. $N/A
88 Freemark Abbey, 1987 Cabernet Bosche
Napa Valley
Deep ruby-garnet hue. Earthy dark cherry and root beer aromas with green olive, cassis, cedar and spice flavors. Finishes clean with moderate tannins. $160
89 Freemark Abbey, 1991 Cabernet Bosche
Napa Valley
Opaque garnet hue. Scents of black cherry, licorice and plum. Balanced flavors of licorice, cassis and black cherry; finishing with mocha-rich tannins. $140
90 Freemark Abbey, 1997 Cabernet Bosche
Napa Valley
Wonderfully deep ruby hue. Youthful scents of dust, cedar, black currant and dark cherry. Lots of berry and plum flavors, clean oak with food-friendly tannins through to the finish. $120
92 Freemark Abbey, 2001 Cabernet Bosche
Napa Valley
Dark garnet-purple hue. Lovely, generous aromas of cassis, earth, black cherry, chocolate and plum. Nicely integrated oak with complex flavors of fruit, dark chocolate and dust. Lively licorice finish. $120
89 Freemark Abbey, 2005 Cabernet Bosche
Napa Valley
Out-of-the-barrel, deep crimson-purple hue. Scents of cherry and chocolate. Flavors of rich, plump, jammy dark cherry syrup, olive, oak and spice. Finishes with warm, mocha-flavored tannins. $TBD
85 Freemark Abbey, 1984 Cabernet Sauvignon
Sycamore Vineyard, Napa Valley
Dark brick hue. Pleasant aromas of cherry and smoky olive. Fruit flavors combine with cedar and mushroom. Moderate tannins. $N/A
88 Freemark Abbey, 1987 Cabernet Sauvignon
Sycamore Vineyard, Napa Valley
Dark opaque red hue. Complex berry and earth aromas. Fully fruited berry-cassis flavors with spice and integrated oak. Resolved food-friendly tannins. $140
89 Freemark Abbey, 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon
Sycamore Vineyard, Napa Valley
Very deep garnet hue. Scents of black fruit and Rutherford slope. Flavors of dark chocolate, cassis and clove. Nice mocha and oak tannins. $110
91 Freemark Abbey, 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon
Sycamore Vineyard, Napa Valley
Dark ruby-purple hue. Scents of cassis and cedar-juniper wood. Flavors of black cherry, licorice and chocolate. Crisp with mature tannins that continue to carry the wine. $90
92 Freemark Abbey, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Sycamore Vineyard, Napa Valley
Lovely opaque purple-garnet hue. Scents of berries, cassis, chocolate and dust. Complex spice flavors with fruit to match. Crisp finish. Lots of food-friendly tannins to make this wine great now or later. $90
90 Freemark Abbey, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Sycamore Vineyard, Napa Valley
Out-of-the-barrel, deep crimson-purple hue. Dark plum, dark cherry and blackberry aromas. Lots of fruit, vanilla and jam flavors. Chocolate and oak tannins spice the finish. $TBD
About the BuyLine Panel: More than 100 wines are reviewed in every issue of Wine News. All wines are tasted double-blind and each entry is evaluated and scored based upon individual merit. Wines that score above 70 points are recommended in the BuyLine. Tasting and interpreting wine is a purely subjective exercise; all scores and accompanying tasting notes represent the collective opinions of our panel.
Wine Samples: Send samples for review with retail price affixed to:
Wine News BuyLine Tasting Panel
1501 Venera Avenue, Suite 320
Coral Gables, FL 33146
Telephone: 305.740.7170
The Panel: Lyn Farmer, senior staff columnist; Abraham Horowitz, BuyLine panelist; Tom E. Smith, publisher; John Stroker, BuyLine panelist; and Fred Tasker, Miami Herald wine critic.
Scoring: Tasting notes reflect the panel's collective impressions; scores are averaged and represent the panel's mean. Wines possessing certain criteria will be singled out for special recognition:
Taster's Choice: Wines which display outstanding quality, character and potential.
Best Value Wines of exceptional quality which sell at a moderate price.
Stemware: Riedel Ouverture tasting glasses.
Pricing: Prices vary from state to state. Retail prices listed are approximate.
