PHOTO: TOM E. SMITH
California's Best of 2007
Text by Steve PitcherWhen California is blessed with a vintage like 2004, the critic's task of singling out the best in any varietal or blend category becomes frustratingly difficult. It's always that way with a truly stellar year, and 2004 is universally acknowledged as just that. The process is akin to selecting the best example among a pile of mint-condition gold coins.
To complicate matters further, a limited number of late-released iconic wines from the 2003 harvest are among the candidates to be considered. In the end, it's purely a matter of personal palate preference. This is especially true of the Cabernet Sauvignon and Proprietary Blend categories in this report, now in its tenth year. Here's why.
Vintage 2003, widely viewed as "spotty" and the best of whose Cabernet Sauvignons released in 2006 featured prominently in this report last year, seems now to have been but a minor speed bump in California's rollicking journey through a succession of excellent-to-outstanding harvests in the first decade of the 21st century. Based on the performance of North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon, vintage 2004 picked up where the excellent vintage of 2002 left off, providing wines of similar quality and appeal.
Described by the California Wine Institute as one of the earliest and fastest harvests in the state's history - running two to three weeks ahead of normal - vintage 2004 provided a normal-to-light yield of excellent fruit that had winegrowers gushing with praise.
Bob Steinhauer, a 40-plus-year veteran of the California wine industry who retired last year as senior vice president and vineyard operations manager for Foster's Wine Estates, neatly summed up in December 2004 the general take on the harvest by most California growers: "The 2004 growing season started and ended early - as early as any I've seen in my entire career. The spring and summer months were textbook perfect for grape growing, and for a while it looked like the pace of harvest would be nice and even. Mother Nature had other ideas, of course, and instead everything was accelerated when temperatures warmed at the end of August and stayed warm into September. But because the season got an early start, the grape clusters had matured nicely and were ready for picking. Yields, almost across the board, were lighter than expected, so we were seeing good color, beautiful aromas and concentrated flavors in the fermenters."
Steinhauer's enthusiastic appraisal was confirmed in barrel tastings of the 2004s and, more importantly, when most of the finished wines began reaching the market in 2007. As with 2002, 2004 is a year of superlative quality, whose wines - focusing on Cabernet as a benchmark - exhibit depth, plushness, concentration and range of flavor second to none in the state's history.
The Criteria
In each category of this report, wines are evaluated purely in terms of quality, regardless of price or case production. There is a clear, separate, first-place position for a varietal or blend of the year, which stands alone because of the evident, extraordinary character that lifted it above the field. An accompanying "Top Ten" section follows with each wine listed alphabetically along with its description. The wines of the year and Top Ten wines are all in the same high-quality range of "Outstanding" to "Superb," which is covered by the 90-and-above point range of this magazine's BuyLine. Wines listed without description following the Top Ten are in the same quality range, but are slightly eclipsed in quality by the described wines.
Wines rated and described by the BuyLine panel were included in the pool from which I ultimately selected the wines presented in this report, but only those tasted separately by me became candidates for the final list. Wines that carry the initials "BL" indicate a BuyLine selection and, where applicable, include the panel's tasting notes and any special designation, such as "Tasters' Choice Selection."
The majority, however, are my solo selections, carefully culled from hundreds of candidates sampled throughout the year. While many of the wines were tasted blind and comparatively, some were tasted open.
A note about classification: A red wine labeled with a proprietary name and no varietal designation is classified here as a "Proprietary Blend." If a varietal is specified along with the proprietary name, it is classified by the varietal.
Publication deadlines precluded consideration of any wines not tasted by October 31. Here, then, and on the pages that follow, are the best California wines I encountered in 2007.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Sauvignon of the Year
Joseph Phelps, 2004 Backus Vineyard, Oakville - $200: From the brick-red soil of a steeply terraced, grand cru estate vineyard rising up from the Silverado Trail, Phelps' winemaker Craig Williams has crafted a magnificent Oakville Cabernet, assisted in no small measure by 2004's superb fruit. Intense and powerful, yet at the same time elegant and focused, the wine's concentration and depth of flavor are amazing. Forward aromas exude a mélange of black fruit accented by a blueberry note from the 3% petit verdot in the blend, broadened by fruitcake spices and dark chocolate. Like characteristics translate harmoniously to the palate, which is richly textured and framed by firm, supple tannins and subtle French oak. Super-long finish. This wine's structure and balance ensure continuing pleasure over the next 10 to 20 years. (1,500 cases)
Top Ten Cabernets of the Year
Caymus, 2004 Special Selection, Napa Valley - $136: Attractive, intense bouquet of cassis and black cherry laced with espresso bean, chocolate and baking spice. Full bodied, velvety and deeply concentrated with firm, ripe tannins and complex flavors of black currant, black cherry, sweet oak and nutmeg, which linger in the extended close. (11,800 cases)
Chateau St. Jean, 2004 Cinq Cépages, Sonoma County - $75: Varietal Cabernet Sauvignon (77% of the blend), accented by the other members of the traditional Bordeaux quintet - merlot (9%), cab franc (7%), malbec (4%) and petit verdot (3%) - this Sonoma charmer offers enticing aromas of mocha, roasted almond, black cherry-boysenberry fruit and violets. On the palate, the wine is elegantly bold and seamless, rich and extracted with medium-full, chewy tannins and copious flavors of ripe black raspberry, blueberry, dried lavender and espresso bean. Long, fruity finish. (13,425 cases)
Dalla Valle, 2004 Napa Valley - $135: A voluptuous wine displaying excellent structure supported by medium-full, fine-grain tannins. This hillside Cab offers fragrant, appealing aromas of cassis and dark berry, shy dried herbs and mocha. Deeply fruited and concentrated with luscious flavors that echo the nose. Finishes long and lovely. (400 cases)
Etude, 2004 Napa Valley - $90: Exhibiting its signature opulent, seamless texture, the 2004 bottling is even more impressive on that score than its predecessors, offering heady aromas of raspberry, cassis and black cherry fruit with hints of blueberry and allspice, mocha and vanillin oak. Plush, yet firmly structured, with medium-full, supple tannins and deeply concentrated flavors of liqueur-rich black fruit, baking spice and slightly toasty oak. Long, elegant finish. (3,600 cases)
Far Niente, 2004 Oakville - $120: Complex, appealing nose of kirsch-like black currant and blackberry, dried lavender and mocha with a blueberry high note from the 6% petit verdot in the blend, which also includes 4% each merlot and cab franc. Rich and luscious with medium-full, supple tannins and a deep core of ripe cassis-dark berry fruit, enhanced by nutmeg spice and well-integrated sweet oak. Long, extended close. (9,200 cases)
Marston Family Vineyard, 2004 Proprietor Grown, Spring Mountain District - $90: Classic hillside fruit emitting intense aromas and flavors of plum and blueberry with sweet, combed tannins. This is a fruit-driven Cab with a combination of heft and staying power - BL's highest-rated (94 points) Cabernet of 2007. (500 cases)
PlumpJack, 2004 McWilliams Oakville Vineyard, Oakville - $72: Lovely aromas of spicy cassis, Bing cherry, crushed coffee bean and moderately toasty oak. Big and bold on the palate with medium-full tannins and a rich core of black fruit laced with sour cherry, chocolate and spice. Beautifully proportioned and focused with a long, spicy finish. (4,000 cases)
Shafer, 2003 Hillside Select, Stags Leap District - $200: Complex, fragrant, appealing aromas of rich cassis and blackberry, crushed stone minerality, tobacco leaf and subtle dark chocolate. Full bodied, rich and mouth-filling with firm, fine-grained tannins and deeply extracted black fruit enhanced by warm spice and a subtle minerality from the rocky volcanic soil of Shafer's hillside vineyards. This stunning, iconic wine leaves an impression on the palate for a full minute, and will gain additional character and complexity over the next 20 years. (2,400 cases)
Shafer, 2004 One Point Five, Stags Leap District - $65: Replacing Shafer's Napa Valley Cabernet and referencing John and Doug Shafer's father and son "generation-and-a-half" partnership, this more specifically designated Cab entices with scents of lavender, ripe cassis and black cherry with subtle shadings of glove leather, tobacco leaf and vanilla. Silky-smooth on the palate with supple tannins and a great burst of mocha-tinged berry-cassis fruit laced with brown spice, chocolate and dried lavender that extend into the long close. (6,000 cases)
Vine Cliff, 2004 Private Stock, Pickett Road Vineyard, Napa Valley - $150: Mixed scents of new leather, cherry, oak and resin. Creamy texture with flavors of cherry, vanilla and charred oak with a hint of pepper. Lasting cherry fruit impressions with minerals and sweet oak. (379 cases) - BL
Other Outstanding Cabernets
Altamura, 2003 Napa Valley - $65 (4,000 cases)
Beringer, 2004 Private Reserve, Napa Valley - $116 (8,200 cases)
Chimney Rock, 2004 Reserve, Stags Leap District - $107 (538 cases)
Clos Pegase, 2003 Hommage, Napa Valley - $75 (573 cases)
Constant, 2004 Diamond Mountain Vineyard, Napa Valley - $95 (877 cases)
Tasters' Choice Selection - BL
Corison, 2002 Kronos Vineyard, Napa Valley - $100 (375 cases)
Cuvaison, 2004 Mt. Veeder - $38 (3,756 cases)
J. Davies, 2004 Diamond Mountain District - $75 (1,478 cases)
Duckhorn, 2004 Estate Grown, Napa Valley - $90 (3,233 cases)
Etude, 2004 Oakville - $100 (320 cases)
Flora Springs, 2004 Rutherford Hillside Reserve, Rutherford - $100 (304 cases)
Geyser Peak, 2004 Block Collection, Walking Tree Vineyard, Alexander Valley - $47 (1,045 cases)
Ghost Block, 2004 Oakville - $55 (800 cases)
Grgich Hills, 2003 Napa Valley - $58 (14,634 cases)
Hartwell, 2004 Estate Reserve, Stags Leap District - $115 (1,017 cases)
Hewitt Vineyard, 2004 Rutherford - $75 (4,076 cases)
Kendall-Jackson, 2004 Trace Ridge, Knights Valley - $55 (437 cases)
Luna Vineyards, 2004 Reserve, Napa Valley - $100 (400 cases)
Piña, 2004 Buckeye Vineyard, Howell Mountain - $72 (649 cases)
Pine Ridge, 2004 Oakville - $75 (1,955 cases)
Raymond, 2003 Generations, Napa Valley - $80 (850 cases)
Rubicon Estate, 2004 Cask, Rutherford - $75 (6,500 cases)
St. Clement, 2004 Oroppas, Napa Valley - $55 (3,844 cases)
Sbragia Family, 2004 Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $50 (686 cases)
Spottswoode, 2004 Family Estate Grown, St. Helena - $110 (1,532 cases)
Vine Cliff, 2004 Private Stock, 16 Rows, Oakville - $150 (313 cases)
Wild Oak by St. Francis, 2003 Sonoma County - $30 (3,000 cases)
Proprietary Blends
Proprietary Blend of the Year
Joseph Phelps, 2004 Insignia, Napa Valley - $200: Insignia's current vintage continues its impressive, top-place record in this report; this first-growth quality, Bordeaux-style blend is composed of estate-grown cabernet sauvignon (72%), merlot (14%), petit verdot (12%) and malbec (2%) from Phelps's vineyards in St. Helena, Stags Leap District, Yountville, Rutherford and Oakville. Forward, intense nose of liqueur-rich blackberry-black cherry fruit, dried lavender, mocha and vanilla bean with a hint of graphite. Concentrated and mouth-filling with firm, velvety tannins and balancing acidity, the wine exhibits a deep core of luscious blackberry-blueberry fruit enhanced by seductive, fruitcake-like spicy notes and subtle vanillin oak. Finishes long and graceful. (9,000 cases)
Top Ten Proprietary Blends of the Year
Blackbird Vineyards, 2005 Proprietary Red Wine, Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley - $80: From a Merlot specialist ("merlot" is French patois for little blackbird), this charming, curvaceous wine is mostly merlot with the addition of 4% cabernet sauvignon. Fragrant, appealing aromas of mocha with undertones of ripe black cherry tinged with violets. Ultrasmooth and round in the mouth with medium-full, fine-grain tannins and concentrated dried-herb-tinged black fruit. Mocha persists into the lengthy close. (1,120 cases)
M. Cosentino, 2003 CE2V Meritage, Napa Valley - $100: Mixed wood (cedar, oak and redwood) aromas followed by scents of cherry, cinnamon and leather. Rich cherry flavors with hints of oak and tobacco leaf. The finish is peppery and youthful with a red licorice-like sweetness. (310 cases) - BL
Dominus Estate, 2004 Dominus Red Wine, Napa Valley - $115: Loamy aromas of cherry, raspberry, pencil and brown sugar. Flavors of cherry, citrus, milk chocolate and chalk are supple and uncharacteristically ripe at such an early age for this wine. Espresso notes perk up the lingering close. (5,600 cases) - BL
Dry Creek Vineyard, 2004 The Mariner, Dry Creek Valley - $40: Embodying the evolution of the winery's Meritage program, The Mariner is a noble blend of cabernet sauvignon (46%), merlot (40%), malbec (6%), cabernet franc (5%) and petit verdot (3%) from several of the finest vineyards in Dry Creek Valley. Appealing aromas of mocha, light vanilla, black cherry-raspberry and wilted roses. Ultrasmooth with medium tannins, the flavors are rich, succulent and nicely concentrated, melding black cherry-cassis fruit, mocha and subtle white pepper. An elegant, stylish wine with a subtle, peppery finish. (5,000 cases)
JC Cellars, 2005 The Imposter, California - $32: A unique blend of 72% zinfandel, 12% each petite sirah and syrah, and tiny amounts of mourvèdre and viognier yields an utterly irresistible wine offering aromas of loamy earth, bittersweet chocolate, crème de cassis and black cherry fruit along with a whiff of smoked meat. Layered and complex with medium tannins and a plush texture, this Zin-Rhône blend delivers copious, lifted, kirsch-rich red berry-red cherry fruit laced with mocha and earthy tones. Finishes with what seems like molten white chocolate. Because the wine throws a bit of sediment, decanting is recommended. (1,143 cases)
J. Lohr, 2003 Cuvée PAU, Paso Robles - $50: Substantial aromas of mixed berries, espresso, leather and earth graced with a vanilla note. Thick, creamy flavors of black fruit, semisweet chocolate and vanilla frosting are suggestive of drinking chocolate cake. Chewy finish. (180 cases) - BL
Opus One, 2004 Napa Valley Red Wine, Oakville - $180: Based on cabernet sauvignon (86%) with small percentages of merlot (7%), petit verdot (4%), cab franc (2%) and malbec (1%), the 2004 Opus boasts a complex, fragrant nose of ripe cassis and raspberry, violets, toasted brioche and subtle, peppery spice. Complex and delicious with a rich, creamy entry and medium-full tannins; nicely concentrated, expansive flavors of ripe cassis tinged with black cherry and espresso bean are broad and deep, lingering into the extended finish. Winemaker Michael Silacci has crafted the best Opus One since the spectacular 1997. (22,000 cases)
Paraduxx, 2005 Napa Valley - $45: Zinfandel bolstered by 32% cabernet sauvignon, 6% merlot and 2% cab franc. Fragrant, appealing scents of dark berry and dried strawberry, red plum, brown spice and violets. Smooth, silky, yet robust and generous with medium tannins and succulent flavors of raspberry and boysenberry laced with sour cherry and accented by notes of dark chocolate, crushed espresso bean and anise seed. Finishes with just a hint of black pepper spice. (17,277 cases)
Rubicon Estate, 2003 Rubicon, Rutherford - $115: Predominately cabernet sauvignon enhanced by 2% each merlot and cab franc and 1% petit verdot. This flagship wine impressed the BuyLine panel as well (92 points): "Subtle scents of blackberry, oak and minerals. Inviting flavors of mixed berries, tobacco and cedar are gently sweet. Long finish shows bittersweet chocolate." (5,244 cases) - BL
Valley of the Moon, 2003 Cuvée de la Luna, Sonoma County - $30: Beautifully integrated aromas of blueberry, freshly turned earth and milk chocolate. Minerally, focused flavors of blackberry, orange peel and espresso. Tooth-coating, yet quite inviting, close. (500 cases) - BL
Other Outstanding Proprietary Blends
Bravante, 2004 Trio, Howell Mountain - $35 (450 cases)
Chimney Rock, 2004 Elevage, Stags Leap District - $78 (2,891 cases)
Robert Craig, 2004 Affinity, Napa Valley - $45 (3,640 cases)
Geyser Peak, 2003 Reserve Alexandre Meritage, Alexander Valley - $55 (2,500 cases)
Hess Collection, 2004 Mountain Cuvée, Mount Veeder - $35 (15,000 cases)
Sterling, 2004 SVR Reserve, Napa Valley - $50 (5,280 cases)
Swanson, 2004 Alexis, Oakville - $65 (3,265 cases)
Valley of the Moon, 2003 Cuvée de la Luna, Sonoma County - $30 (500 cases)
Merlot
Merlot of the Year
Duckhorn, 2004 Three Palms Vineyard, Napa Valley - $85: Complex, deeply fragrant nose of black cherry-black raspberry fruit, sweet oak, vanilla, allspice and dried herbs. A big, yet superbly balanced, Merlot with medium-full, ripe, supple tannins that delivers copious, concentrated flavors that echo the nose along with a touch of stony minerality. This single vineyard expression finishes long with a note of ripe strawberry. (1,845 cases)
Top Ten Merlots of the Year
Duckhorn, 2003 Howell Mountain - $70: Initially shy nose opens with airing to reveal layered aromas of cassis and blackberry, dried sage and mushroomy earthiness. Full bodied and powerful with firm tannins and a plush texture, this mountain Merlot tastes of black cherry, pomegranate and dark plum, accented by notes of vanilla and black pepper. (2,239 cases)
Duckhorn, 2005 Napa Valley - $50: A delicious expression of Napa Valley from estate and independent vineyards located throughout the appellation - 48 in all - this approachable Merlot offers enticing aromas of raspberry, black cherry and cassis accented by cherry cola and espresso bean. Silky-smooth and juicy with medium tannins and scrumptious flavors of blackberry, raspberry and cassis. Hints of dried herbs pick up in the extended finish. (31,163 cases)
Hall, 2004 Napa Valley - $28: Reserved scents of chocolate and raspberry with secondary nuances of minerals and dust. Ripe flavors of black cherry and sugared plum. Velvety tannins and lingering raspberry notes in the smooth finish. (3,429 cases) - BL
Hartwell, 2004 Stags Leap District - $65: Exotic scents of black cherry, mocha and plum with undertones of wintergreen and menthol. Velvety tannins frame ripe flavors of black cherry and vanilla. A touch of oak kisses the lingering, juicy finish. (253 cases) - BL
Nickel & Nickel, 2004 Soscol Ranch, Napa Valley - $55: Fragrant, heady aromas of blueberry, black raspberry, minerals, clove and chocolate. Flavors of blackberry, oak char, coffee and clove are a bit leaner than suggested by the nose. Smoke appears in the lengthy close. (13,500 cases) - BL
Provenance, 2004 Carneros-Napa Valley - $60: Pungent aromas of black fruit compote, iodine, baker's chocolate and slate. Sweet, layered, concentrated flavors of black cherry, plum, bittersweet chocolate, rum cake and cedary spice. Lasting, very tangy finish. (1,600 cases) - BL
Shafer, 2005 Napa Valley - $46: Wonderfully fragrant aromas of cinnamon toast, black cherry, cassis and dark berries, plus a hint of smoke. Smooth and luscious on the palate with supple, ripe tannins and loads of red and black fruit enhanced by cinnamon-clove spice and red licorice. Deeply flavorful and irresistible with an extended close that displays a hint of orange peel. (10,000 cases)
Stags' Leap Winery, 2004 Napa Valley - $31: Appealing aromas of chocolate-covered blackberry, cassis and subtle orange zest lead to rich, concentrated flavors of ripe berry-cassis fruit, dried herbs, mocha and subtle earthiness. Round, silky-smooth and plump with firm, medium tannins and great depth of flavor. Finishes with hints of licorice and chocolate. (19,700 cases)
Sterling, 2004 Three Palms Vineyard, Napa Valley - $55: Very pungent scents of plum, cherry, moist earth, graphite and coffee with lightening vanilla notes. Deep, supple flavors of blackberry, black cherry, minerals and pencil. Sweet finish softens the big tannins. (6,146 cases) - BL
Swanson, 2004 Oakville-Napa Valley - $34: Complex scents of black cherry, chocolate and menthol. Jammy flavors of black cherry and black plum. Velvety tannins and lingering impressions of mocha and wintergreen in the generous finish. (14,114 cases) - BL
Other Outstanding Merlots
Bravante, 2004 Howell Mountain - $35 (320 cases)
Buena Vista, 2004 Carneros - $21 (4,374 cases)
Burgess, 2004 Napa Valley - $22 (5,700 cases)
Duckhorn, 2004 Estate Grown, Napa Valley - $85 (2,269 cases)
Grgich Hills, 2004 Estate Grown, Napa Valley - $40 (4,500 cases)
Hall, 2004 Napa River Ranch, Napa Valley - $50 (530 cases)
J. Lohr, 2005 Los Osos, Paso Robles - $22 (66,500 cases)
Kendall-Jackson, 2004 Taylor Peak, Bennett Valley - $40 (1,500 cases)
Nickel & Nickel, 2004 Harris Vineyard, Oakville - $48 (1,800 cases)
Pride, 2004 Napa-Sonoma Counties - $56 (3,390 cases)
Rutherford Hill, 2004 Napa Valley - $25 (61,233 cases)
St. Clement, 2004 Napa Valley $28 - (2,000 cases)
Souverain, 2005 Alexander Valley - $19 (14,700 cases)
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir of the Year
Londer, 2005 Paraboll Vineyard, Anderson Valley - $54: Intriguing scents of clover, raspberry, sour cherry, subtle vanilla and dried lavender. Luscious, verging on opulent, with medium tannins and a good backbone of acidity, this exquisite Pinot delivers a cascade of super-ripe red fruit mingled with subtle cola and blackberry notes. A long, lovely, berry-imbued finish. (450 cases)
Top Ten Pinot Noirs of the Year
Babcock, 2006 Grand Cuvee, Sta. Rita Hills - $40: Attractive scents of sour cherry and raspberry accented by earthy mushroom, brown spice and a touch of vanilla. Sublimely supple, round and silky-smooth with medium tannins and integrated flavors of wild blackberry, sour cherry, mushroom, black tea and subtle spice. The epitome of elegance. (950 cases)
Black Kite, 2005 Redwood's Edge, Anderson Valley - $40: One of two block selections from the winery's vineyard in the cool Deep End of the valley, this stunning wine offers aromas of red currant-sour cherry fruit, dried lavender and a hint of red meat. Big, bold and full bodied with medium-full tannins and copious, ripe, concentrated, deep flavors of dark fruit mingled with meaty notes. (2,100 cases)
Breggo, 2005 Savoy Vineyard, Anderson Valley - $50: Pretty, slightly floral nose of strawberry-black currant fruit. Velvety smooth with medium tannins and loaded with ripe wild strawberry that's intense, deep and concentrated. (679 cases)
Calera, 2003 Jensen Vineyard, Mt. Harlan - $55: Attractive bouquet of leather, basil, clove and brown spices. Earthy with tea, strawberry, walnut and cocoa flavors. Delicate finish with lingering clove, nutmeg and brown sugar notes. (729 cases) - BL
Calera, 2003 Selleck Vineyard, Mt. Harlan - $60: Fragrant cherry, clove and smoky charred oak aromas. A lovely wine from the outset, this Pinot shows ripe cherry fruit with notes of sweet oak and clove in the mouth. The finish is delicate in texture, yet the flavors mount, delivering layers of perfectly melded mint, mocha and orange. (207 cases) - BL (Tasters' Choice Selection)
Drew, 2005 Fog Eater, Anderson Valley - $35: From one of the chilliest microclimates in Anderson Valley's Deep End, this exciting Pinot offers enticing aromas of red cherry, strawberry and raspberry that are pure and focused. Silky smooth and luscious with medium tannins and complex flavors of spicy red fruit, blackberry and a hint of cedar that resonate in a long close. (225 cases)
Foley, 2004 Barrel Select, Rancho Santa Rosa, Sta. Rita Hills - $50: Deep, fragrant, appealing scents of freshly crushed wild strawberry and boysenberry, subtle mocha-espresso and light vanilla. Juicy and silky smooth with medium tannins and finely etched flavors of super-ripe strawberry, red plum and crushed stone minerality. A very sophisticated, complex and elegant expression of Pinot that finishes with a touch of red currant and oak spice. (248 cases)
Foley, 2004 Clone 667, Rancho Santa Rosa, Sta. Rita Hills - $45: Very pretty nose of violets, freshly crushed strawberry and black cherry, vanilla and clove spice. Luscious and juicy with refreshing acidity, medium tannins and loads of the ripe fruit advertised by the nose, enhanced by subtle earthiness and a touch of pomegranate juice in the extended close. This superb Pinot is awash in absolutely marvelous fruit. (214 cases)
Goldeneye, 2004 Confluence Vineyard, Anderson Valley - $70: First release of this block selection from the home vineyard in Philo, this voluptuous, extracted Pinot offers aromas of intense strawberry-raspberry fruit mingled with nutmeg and vanilla, qualities that are copiously replicated on the palate, buoyed by medium-full tannins and fine acid balance. Also highly rated (94 points) by the BuyLine panel as a Tasters' Choice Selection. (270 cases)
Goldeneye, 2004 The Narrows Vineyard, Anderson Valley - $70: The premier release from this chilly, hillside vineyard (formerly called Floodgate) under Goldeneye's ownership offers assertive, slightly meaty-smoky aromas of ripe wild strawberry enhanced by mushroom, vanillin oak and sweet leather. Velvety smooth, rich and concentrated with firm, ripe tannins that time will tame, the wine boasts deep, profound, yet still tightly wound, strawberry-blackberry-blueberry fruit accented by a touch of anise seed. Cellar for at least four years. (290 cases)
Other Outstanding Pinots
Belle Glos, 2005 Taylor Lane Vineyard, Sonoma Coast - $50 (500 cases) - BL (Tasters' Choice Selection)
Baxter, 2004 Oppenlander Vineyard, Mendocino - $40 (43 cases)
Baxter, 2004 Toulouse Vineyard, Anderson Valley - $45 (185 cases)
Calera, 2003 Mills Vineyard, Mt. Harlan - $45 (835 cases)
Calera, 2004 Selleck Vineyard, Mt. Harlan - $75 (324 cases)
DeLoach, 2005 O.F.S., Russian River Valley - $38 (878 cases)
Donum, 2004 Estate Grown, Carneros - $60 (800 cases)
Merry Edwards, 2004 Klopp Ranch, Russian River Valley - $51 (1,325 cases)
Etude, 2004 Estate Grown, Heirloom, Carneros - $80 (975 cases)
Etude, 2005 Estate Grown, Temblor Vineyard, Carneros - $60 (495 cases)
Gary Farrell, 2004 Rochioli-Allen Vineyards, Russian River Valley - $65 (313 cases)
Goldeneye, 2004 Anderson Valley - $52 (7,258 cases)
J. Jacaman, 2004 Toulouse Vineyard, Anderson Valley - $40 (290 cases)
Lazy Creek, 2004 Estate Reserve Puncheon Blend, Anderson Valley - $98 (73 cases)
Morgan, 2005 Garys' Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands - $55 (600 cases)
Orogeny, 2005 Fox Den Vineyard, Green Valley - $50 (222 cases)
Fess Parker, 2005 Ashley's Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills - $55 (1,000 cases)
Fess Parker, 2005 Clone 115, Sta. Rita Hills - $58 (150 cases)
Rochioli, 2005 Estate Grown, Russian River Valley - $50 (4,030 cases)
Sea Smoke, 2005 Ten, Sta. Rita Hills - $70 (1,500 cases)
Siduri, 2005 Keefer Ranch Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $53 (552 cases)
Talley, 2004 Rosemary's Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley - $68 (540 cases)
Syrah & Petite Sirah
(All wines listed are Syrah, unless otherwise noted.)
Syrah of the Year
Shafer, 2004 Relentless, Napa Valley - $65: This superbly crafted field blend of 80% syrah and 20% petite sirah has achieved top honors in this report every year since the inaugural 1999 release was reviewed in 2002. Ridge-top vines are a year older and the 2004 vintage added to its luster. Northern Rhône-like aromas of sun-streaked wild blackberry, roasted meat, plum compote, freshly cracked black peppercorn and minerals are heady and irresistible. Rich, full bodied and deeply concentrated on the palate with firm, ripe tannins and copious flavors of blackberry extract laced with black pepper and vanilla (from 30 months in all-new French barrels). As expressive and powerful as a great Hermitage with the advantage of perfectly ripened California fruit from a stellar vintage, this best-Relentless-yet lingers a full minute in the close. (3,000 cases)
Top Ten Syrahs & Petites of the Year
Beckman, 2004 Purisima Mountain Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley - $40: Deep, meaty aromas of pan drippings, dark brambleberry, lavender and white chocolate. Smooth as velvet with medium, supple tannins, this lot-selection, mountain-grown Syrah offers up loads of deep, luscious blackberry fruit accented by allspice and espresso bean. Finishes with a note of white chocolate. (350 cases)
Robert Biale, 2005 Hill Climber, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $56: Forward, exuberant scents of chocolate chip cookie, quite ripe wild blackberry, raspberry, roasted meat and white pepper. Rich and succulent on the palate with loads of kirsch-like berry fruit, a bit of forest floor and iron-red minerality. Given its enormous palate, framed in a tight structure of medium-full tannins, this gentle giant of a wine is years away from optimum drinking. (75 cases)
Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard, 2004 Constancii Vineyard, Northern Sonoma - $65: From the only Sonoma County vineyard on Diamond Mountain, this high-elevation Syrah offers deep, brooding aromas of raw beef, mocha and blackberry jam. Liqueur-rich and supple on the palate with firm, medium tannins and lip-smacking flavors of chocolate-covered blackberry that are bright and persistent. A classy Syrah worth the price. (225 cases)
JC Cellars, 2005 California Cuvée, California - $25: An harmonious blend, including 12% petite sirah and 1.5% viognier, offering forward, complex, enticing aromas of quite ripe blackberry, freshly cracked black pepper, mocha, lavender and a hint of graphite. Liqueur-rich and scrumptious on the palate, bursting with black pepper-infused black fruit underpinned with a note of minerality. Finishes with a peppery flourish. Decanting is highly recommended. (760 cases)
Kuleto Estate, 2004 Napa Valley - $45: Appealing scents of wild blackberry, smoky grilled meat, warm spice and coffee bean. Velvety smooth and rich with firm, medium-full tannins and generous flavors that replicate the nose. Expansive and sweet with an incredibly long, lavender-tinged finish. (540 cases)
PlumpJack, 2005 Napa Valley - $40: Intense, alluring aromas of dark chocolate reminiscent of oven-baked brownie crust, quite ripe black raspberry and boysenberry, subtle meaty notes and a touch of vanilla with a bit of sweet leather emerging with air. Firm, smooth and luscious in the mouth with medium-full tannins, the wine tastes deliciously of ripe black fruit dusted with allspice, some meatiness, dried lavender and white pepper. Finishes with a peppery note. (1,300 cases)
Rosenblum, 2004 Reserve, Kick Vineyards, Sonoma County - $55: Wildly exuberant nose of blackberry, black cherry, anise and dark chocolate. Plush and mouth-filling with medium-full tannins and super-rich, deep flavors of blackberry and cassis, smoked bacon and sweet spices. An extravagant Syrah that is pure pleasure to drink now and will cellar nicely for at least 10 years. (394 cases)
Rosenblum, 2005 Petite Sirah Reserve, Rockpile Road Vineyard, Rockpile - $45: Exotic scents of brambly blackberry, rose petals, vanilla bean and freshly crushed black peppercorn. Juicy and mouth-filling with firm, full tannins and deep, succulent flavors that echo the nose, plus a streak of kirsch through the mid-palate. Finishes with more peppery spice notes. Rosenblum's Pickett Road Petite from Napa Valley (listed below) is nearly as impressive. Decanting is highly recommended. (416 cases)
Stags' Leap Winery, 2004 Petite Syrah, Napa Valley - $38: Opulent and powerful with intense aromas of blackberry and black currant accented by cocoa and vanilla custard, qualities that are replicated on the palate in deep, succulent black fruit and crème brûlée flavors. Firm, ripe tannins promise a long life in the cellar, although the wine drinks wonderfully now with hearty cuisine. The Ne Cede Malis Rhône-style field blend from venerable estate vines (listed below) is nearly as stunning. (15,800 cases)
Wild Oak by St. Francis, 2004 Sonoma County - $30: The premier release of this special-selection Syrah is well stuffed and exuberant, exhibiting very fragrant, appealing aromas of blackberry, black plum, chocolate, nutmeg and freshly cracked black pepper. Juicy and generous on the palate with near-liqueur-rich blackberry laced with black pepper, dark chocolate and brown spice. A complex, deeply fruited effort with a long, black pepper-accented finish. (700 cases)
Other Outstanding Syrahs, Petites & Blends
Amphora, 2004 Mounts Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley - $30 (675 cases)
Beckman, 2004 Santa Ynez Valley - $25 (1,500 cases)
Eos, 2003 Cupa Grandis Petite Sirah, Peck Ranch Vineyard, Block #7, Paso Robles - $55 (1,000 cases)
Four Vines, 2004 The Heretic Petite Sirah, Paso Robles - $30 (885 cases)
JC Cellars, 2005 Fess Parker's Vineyard, Santa Barbara County - $30 (685 cases)
Keller Estate, 2004 La Cruz Vineyard, Sonoma Coast - 36 (907 cases)
Kendall-Jackson, 2004 Alisos Hills, Santa Barbara County - $35 (500 cases)
Louis M. Martini, 2004 Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $40 (120 cases)
Oberschulte, 2004 Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $34 (198 cases)
Joseph Phelps, 2004 Napa Valley - $40 (800 cases)
Rosenblum, 2005 Petite Sirah, Pickett Road, Napa Valley - $35 (3,125 cases)
Rutherford Hill, 2004 Napa Valley - $28 (546 cases)
Stags' Leap Winery, 2002 Ne Cede Malis, Napa Valley - $75 (420 cases)
Zinfandel
Zinfandel of the Year
Edmeades, 2004 Ciapusci Vineyard, Mendocino Ridge - $25: A touch of glove leather accents brambly dark fruit with a dried cranberry high note in the evocative bouquet. The huge palate is awash in super-ripe dark fruit that verges on over-ripeness - but doesn't get Port-like - enhanced by dried herbs and black pepper. Complex, deep and concentrated with excellent balance and medium-full tannins, this Zin, made from struggling, ancient vines, shows some French oak in the long, mellow close. Also worth a search are three other Edmeades vineyard-designated Mendocino Zins: Chase (also described), Perli and Piffero (listed below). (423 cases)
Top Ten Zinfandels of the Year
Robert Biale, 2005 Grande Vineyard, Napa Valley - $38: From a vineyard planted near the Silverado Trail in 1920, this captivating Zin offers a slow-to-open nose of wild strawberry and black raspberry fruit that leads to a near liqueur-rich palate loaded with high-extract red berry streaked with black pepper spice; medium-full tannins. A long, peppery close. (400 cases)
Robert Biale, 2005 Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $45: Very attractive, appealing scents of blackberry, black raspberry and cracked black pepper spice. Boldly flavored and richly textured with medium-full tannins, this complex, mountain-grown Zin delivers great extract of black fruit and maintains exquisite balance for all that richness and depth. Finishes with a flourish of black pepper. (500 cases)
Bucklin, 2004 Old Hill Ranch, Sonoma Valley - $34: Made from 116-year-old vines in what is likely the state's most diversely planted field-blend vineyard (predominately zinfandel, plus grenache, alicante bouchet, petite sirah, carignane, syrah, mourvèdre and 17 other varieties), this superbly crafted Zin offers an intensely aromatic, complex nose of dark chocolate, blackberry and black cherry, tinged with subtle oak. The exciting palate is drenched in rich berry fruit that's lively, spicy and deep. An exuberant Zin that finishes long and spicy. (620 cases)
Edmeades, 2005 Chase Vineyard, Redwood Valley - $29: A raucous celebration of cherries, this purple giant offers exuberant wild red cherry aromas that are nearly jammy and a plush palate that brims with super-ripe, spicy, cherry-like fruit of various description: chocolate-covered cherry, dried Bing cherry and candied cherry. Medium-full, supple tannins complete the yummy package. (750 cases)
Rancho Zabaco, 2005 Toreador, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $60: Stylish and exuberant in aroma and flavor, this classic, old-vine Zin offers deep, ultraripe, kirsch-like blackberry scents that are positively stunning and even smell extracted. Bright, lively and luscious in the mouth with copious berry fruit that is deep and concentrated, exhibiting medium-full, supple tannins and remarkable palate presence. The marvelous flavors linger in the extended close where some black pepper spice emerges. Rancho Zabaco's less expensive Zin from this vineyard (listed below) is nearly as sensational. (270 cases)
Rosenblum, 2005 Reserve, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $45: Attractive aromas of fresh lavender, dusty minerality and ripe dark berry fruit, accented by spicy American oak and a note of smoked meat. Big bodied and plushly textured with supple, fine-grain tannins, this super-expressive Zin delivers all the flavors promised by the nose and finishes long with a gentle spiciness. (1,800 cases)
Rubicon Estate, 2004 Edizione Pennino, Rutherford - $40: This nobly proportioned Zin entices with come-hither scents of clove-cinnamon spice, bright red fruit and a touch of white pepper. Plush and round in the mouth with loads of spicy, nicely extracted blackberry-black cherry fruit, medium tannins and an extended close. The mouth-feel is remarkable. (1,889 cases)
Seghesio, 2005 Home Ranch, Alexander Valley - $36: Forward, mellow, spicy aromas of brambleberry fruit are fragrant and appealing. Bright and lively on the palate with generous red currant-raspberry fruit showing excellent depth and concentration, and plenty of varietal spiciness, framed by medium-full, supple tannins. The extended close is a slow waltz of loganberry and spice. (2,000 cases)
Carol Shelton, 2004 Wild Thing!, Cox Vineyard, Mendocino County - $28: Delicious-smelling scents of just-baked chocolate brownie and ripe raspberry-red currant fruit. Big, bold and brash on the palate and loaded with ripe wild berry fruit. A powerful expression of the varietal that carries all its exciting elements into the long, peppery finish. (1,700 cases)
Wild Oak by St. Francis, 2005 Old Vines, Sonoma County - $30: Promising bouquet of blueberry, caramel and vanilla. Juicy blueberry echoes on the palate with pencil lead and infused spicy highlights. Tart in the mouth with prominent cherry and cedar notes that are supported by ample acid structure. A hint of sweetness accents the pretty finish. (1,400 cases) - BL
Other Outstanding Zinfandels
Brown Estate, 2005 Napa Valley - $36 (1,900 cases)
Charter Oak, 2005 Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $45 (375 cases)
Edmeades, 2004 Perli Vineyard, Mendocino Ridge - $25 (360 cases)
Edmeades, 2004 Piffero Vineyard, Redwood Valley - $25 (620 cases)
Falcor, 2004 Sonoma County - $34 (336 cases)
Girard, 2005 Old Vine, Napa Valley - $24 (2,300 cases)
Grgich Hills, 2005 Estate Grown, Napa Valley - $33 (5,600 cases)
Hanna, 2004 Bismark Mountain Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $51 (910 cases)
Hartford, 2005 Russian River Valley - $30 (5,800 cases)
JC Cellars, 2005 Arrowhead Mountain Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $35 (431 cases)
Klinker Brick, 2004 Old Ghost Old Vine, Lodi - $35 (1,350 cases)
Kuleto Estate, 2005 Napa Valley - $37 (1,052 cases)
Louis M. Martini, 2004 Gnarly Vine, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $50 (500 cases)
Mauritson, 2005 Rockpile Ridge Vineyard, Rockpile - $35 (717 cases)
Michael-David Vineyards, 2005 Earthquake Zin, Lodi - $28 (12,000 cases)
Navarro, 2004 Mendocino - $19 (2,193 cases)
Peachy Canyon, 2005 Old School House, Paso Robles - $36 (673 cases) - BL Tasters' Choice Selection
Rancho Zabaco, 2005 Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $45 (500 cases)
Rosenblum, 2004 Planchon Vineyard, San Francisco Bay - $25 (1,304 cases)
Rosenblum, 2005 Harris Kratka Vineyard, Alexander Valley - $35 (3,000 cases)
Saddleback Cellars, 2004 Old Vine, Napa Valley - $36 (533 cases)
Carol Shelton, 2005 Rocky Reserve, Florence Vineyard, Rockpile - $33 (650 cases)
Stevenot, 2005 Gran Reserva, Calaveras County - $45 (400 cases)
Tres Sabores, 2004 Rutherford - $30 (875 cases)
Wilson, 2005 Tori Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley - $32 (1,000 cases)
Chardonnay
Chardonnay of the Year
Beringer, 2005 Private Reserve, Napa Valley - $35: Fragrant, forward nose of lightly honeyed tropical fruit, Meyer lemon, spicy poached pear and crème brûlée. Full bodied, viscous and velvety in the mouth with fine acid balance and deep, complex flavors that replicate the nose with the addition of a touch of apricot and some toasty oak. Long, rich finish. This charmer was also a BuyLine Tasters' Choice selection (94 points). (19,000 cases)
Top Ten Chardonnays of the Year
Brewer-Clifton, 2005 Seasmoke, Sta. Rita Hills - $48: Seductive aromas of lightly toasted hazelnut, crushed seashell minerality, lemon curd and roasted pineapple. Viscous and mouth-filling with lively acidity and vibrant, exciting flavors of creamy pineapple and citrus intermixed with ripe apricot; exquisite purity of fruit with great focus for all that complexity. Finishes long with a note of vanilla cream. (770 cases) >
Chateau St. Jean, 2004 Reserve, Sonoma County - $45: Pretty aromas of honeydew melon, peach and butter. Perfectly integrated flavors of stone fruit, butterscotch and caramel with a little lime to keep it all perky. Long finish drips brown butter. (2,858 cases) - BL (Tasters' Choice Selection)
Clos Pegase, 2004 Hommage, Mitsuko's Vineyard, Carneros-Napa Valley - $40: Forward aromas of grilled pineapple, orange peel and crème brûlée. Fat, juicy and loaded with peach, caramel and butterscotch flavors. Ripe finish of tropical fruit, nutmeg, honey and toasted oak. (972 cases) - BL
Figge Cellars, 2005 La Reina Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands - $35: Subtly floral aromas of stone fruit, green apple and gravel are well integrated. Juicy flavors of buttery apple, pineapple, honey and hazelnut are ripe, yet taut, and show superb balance. Supple close. Hard to beat for the price. (285 cases) - BL
Grgich Hills, 2005 Estate Grown, Napa Valley - $40: Fresh, vibrant aromas of baked pear, ripe Meyer lemon, pineapple and hazelnut. Full bodied and elegant on the palate with excellent acid balance and expansive flavors of peach and apricot accented by citrus, green apple and subtle spice. This crisp, complex, food-friendly wine remains lively in the mouth thanks to the absence of malolactic fermentation and the judicious use of French oak (one-third new). Long, lemony close. (32,000 cases)
Marimar Estate, 2004 Dobles Lías, Don Miguel Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $40: Uplifting aromas of grilled pineapple, charred oak, vanilla and clove. Layers of supple peach, pineapple and toasted oak flavors. Lengthy close with youthful acids supporting the exotic fruit. (313 cases) - BL
Melville, 2006 Clone 76-Inox, Sta. Rita Hills - $32: Slow-to-open nose of dried apricot, lemon-lime citrus, crushed stone minerality, an appealing yeastiness (from lees stirring) and sea breeze-like salinity. Crisp and sleek on the palate with copious flavors of pear, quince and dried pineapple with undertones of flinty minerality. This unoaked, all-stainless-steel, no-ML Chardonnay is a joyful mouthful. Decanting recommended for this young wine. (450 cases)
Patz & Hall, 2005 Zio Tony Ranch, Russian River Valley - $55: Apple butter and toasted oak aromas. Soft, layered flavors of peach, grilled pineapple and brown spice. Notably long finish resonating with a combination of tropical fruit and charred oak. (352 cases) - BL
Shafer, 2005 Red Shoulder Ranch, Carneros - $45: Bold and expressive, showing plenty of oak spice from 80% barrel fermentation and 14 months in 50% new oak. A luscious, full-bodied Chard emitting exciting aromas of honeysuckle, Fuji apple, white peach and pineapple. Crisp and lively on the palate, thanks to no malo, with deep, persistent flavors of stone fruit, pineapple, Comice pear and citrus zest. Well-integrated, toasty oak lingers into the extended close. (6,000 cases)
Souverain, 2005 Winemaker's Reserve, Russian River Valley - $30: Ripe aromas of stone fruit and hazelnut with a whiff of bacon fat. Oily, though expertly balanced, flavors of banana peel and brown butter. A baby Chassagne-Montrachet with a long, spicy close. (400 cases) - BL (Tasters' Choice Selection)
Other Outstanding Chardonnays
Beringer, 2005 Sbragia Limited Release - $40 (5,800 cases)
Bernardus, 2005 Monterey County - $20 (26,800 cases)
Calera, 2004 Mt. Harlan - $25 (1,189 cases)
Calera, 2005 30th Anniversary Vintage, Mt. Harlan - $25 (442 cases)
Diatom, 2006 Huber Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills - $42 (200 cases)
Dutton Goldfield, 2005 Rued Vineyard, Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley - $45 (564 cases)
Foley, 2005 Clone 76, Rancho Santa Rosa, Sta. Rita Hills $35 (179 cases)
Foley, 2005 Clone 96, Rancho Santa Rosa, Sta. Rita Hills $35 (181 cases)
Franciscan, 2005 Cuvée Sauvage, Carneros - $35 (5,677 cases)
Gainey, 2005 Limited Selection, Sta. Rita Hills - $32 (1,680 cases)
Grgich Hills, 2004 30th Anniversary, Napa Valley - $73 (1,190 cases)
Mer Soleil, 2005 Barrel Fermented, Central Coast - $42 (30,000 cases)
Mer Soleil, 2006 Silver Unoaked, Santa Lucia Highlands - $42 / screwcap (4,600 cases)
Patz & Hall, 2005 Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley - $39 (7,139 cases)
Sbragia Family Vineyards, 2005 Home Ranch, Dry Creek Valley - $25 (1,200 cases)
Robert Stemmler, 2004 Estate Grown, Carneros - $34 (300 cases)
Talley, 2005 Rosemary's Vineyard, Arroyo Grande Valley - $48 (493 cases)
Sauvignon Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc of the Year
Clos Pegase, 2006 Mitsuko's Vineyard, Carneros-Napa Valley - $20: Made entirely from the sauvignon musqué clone with two-thirds fermented in French oak (only 11% new) and the remainder in stainless steel. A pure, varietal expression of Sauvignon Blanc offering forward, enticing aromas of white grapefruit, honeydew melon, gooseberry, wet pebble minerality and lemon blossom. Round, juicy and luscious on the palate with vibrant acidity brightening deep, persistent, generous flavors that match the nose. An elegant, classy Sauvignon exhibiting liveliness and finesse. Finishes long with a touch of Loire Valley-like flint. (1,982 cases / screwcap)
Top Ten Sauvignon Blancs of the Year
Cade, 2006 Napa Valley - $26: This premier release is an offshoot of PlumpJack Winery. Pleasantly grassy nose of pear, quince and white melon, accented by notes of lemon zest, straw and white peach. Rich and viscous, yet crisp and lively in the mouth with complex flavors of melon and citrus with a grassy edge, enhanced by a touch of ripe fig from the 6% sémillon in the blend. (1,500 cases)
Carica, 2005 Kick Ranch, Sonoma County - $19: Forward, pleasantly grassy nose of white grapefruit, white flowers and passion fruit. Full bodied and rich with crisp acidity and flavors of guava, citrus and passion fruit accented by fresh straw. Finishes with varietal grassiness and just a touch of oak. (523 cases)
Cliff Lede, 2006 Napa Valley - $22: Vibrant, unabashedly grassy aromas of white grapefruit and lemony citrus enhanced by notes of honeysuckle and flinty minerality. Rich and round, without heaviness, buoyed by crisp acidity, this elegant, mouth-filling Sauvignon serves up loads of ripe tropical fruit and lemon curd flavors enlivened by lime zest and minerality. Long, intense finish. (3,780 cases)
Chalk Hill, 2005 Estate, Chalk Hill - $30: Barrel fermented, but no ML, and blended with small amounts of sémillon and sauvignon gris. Wonderfully fragrant, varietal Sauvignon offering complex aromas of white grapefruit and tropical fruit mingled with fresh-cut grass, dried thyme, honeysuckle and lime zest. Super-smooth and full bodied with bright, balancing acidity; complex flavors match the nose with the addition of ripe honeydew melon and lemony citrus, yet the palate never loses its lovely grassiness, which persists into the mineral-tinged close. (4,500 cases)
Merry Edwards, 2005 Russian River Valley - $27: Released January 2007, this barrel fermented, full-ML, lees-stirred Sauvignon from old vines bearing the sauvignon musqué clone is a tour de force of richness, roundness and complexity with superb acid balance and fine structure. Lovely aromas of honeydew melon, white peach, honeysuckle, lemon blossom and grass are replicated on the palate, emerging as deep, layered, persistent flavors. Quickly sold out, it was succeeded at the same price in September by the 2006 (listed below), which is every bit as superb. (2,500 cases)
Ferrari-Carano, 2006 Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County - $17: Spicy rather than grassy in style with zesty flavors and aromas of tropical fruit, white melon, Fuji apple and creamy citrus. Round and juicy with excellent acidity and luscious flavors that echo the nose, accented by subtle oak spice (35% of the wine was aged in older French oak).
A perky, thoroughly delicious Sauvignon sans grassiness that makes a great apéritif. (58,000 cases / screwcap)
Geyser Peak, 2006 Block Collection, River Road Ranch, Russian River Valley - $21: Fresh, aromatic, moderately assertive scents of white grapefruit, passionfruit, gooseberry, lemon thyme and honeydew melon. Tangy and ripe with bright, lively acidity, this beautifully balanced, silky-smooth Sauvignon delivers a bright beam of grapefruit and lime juice flavors, accented by subtle lychee fruit. Finishes with crushed stone minerality mingling with the grapefruit. (3,300 cases)
Grgich Hills, 2006 Essence Sauvignon Blanc, Estate Grown, Napa Valley - $40: Forward, vivid, classic Sauvignon aromas of white grapefruit, lemony citrus and lemon blossom, enhanced by fresh summer straw and a touch of minerals. Great palate presence and tingly acidity with loads of flavor that replicate the nose; the crushed stone minerality adding complexity. This limited-production Sauvignon comprises the very best lots from the winery's biodynamically farmed vineyards in the American Canyon area of southern Napa Valley. (374 cases)
Hartwell, 2005 Napa Valley - $30: Forward garden aromas with a fresh lime note. Sweet and juicy with apple, citrus, mineral and celery flavors. Fresh acidity brightens the lengthy finish with a near-perfect balance between fruit and minerals. (812 cases) - BL
Robert Mondavi, 2005 Fumé Blanc Reserve, To Kalon Vineyard, Napa Valley - $35: Fresh, clean aromas of Comice pear, apple, orange blossom, white peach and lots of wet pebble minerality. Crisp and vibrant on the palate with zingy acidity, this barrel-fermented (31% new), lees-stirred, no-ML, old-vine Sauvignon offers up copious flavors of white fruit (pear, quince, apple, white peach) etched with persistent minerality. Finishes with touches of tropical fruit and citrus. (1,048 cases)
Other Outstanding Sauvignon Blancs
Beckmen, 2005 Purisima Mountain Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley - $20 (1,000 cases)
Chateau St. Jean, 2005 Fumé Blanc, Russian River Valley - $13 (26,270 cases)
Chateau St. Jean, 2005 Fumé Blanc, La Petite Etoile Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $20 (4,340 cases)
Merry Edwards, 2006 Russian River Valley - $27 (2,500 cases)
Geyser Peak, 2006 California - $12 (100,000+ cases)
Girard, 2006 Napa Valley - $16 (15,650 cases)
Greenwood Ridge, 2006 Anderson Valley - $16 (750 cases)
Grgich Hills, 2006 Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley - $28 (12,900 cases)
Handley, 2005 Handley Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley - $16 (1,700 cases)
Hartwell, 2006 Carneros-Napa Valley - $30 (812 cases)
Honig, 2006 Napa Valley - $16 (30,000 cases)
Kunde Estate, 2006 Magnolia Lane, Sonoma Valley - $18 (18,000 cases)
Ledson, 2006 Napa Valley - $26 (1,646 cases)
Rochioli, 2006 Russian River Valley - $32 (4,200 cases)
St. Supéry, 2006 Napa Valley - $19 (40,000 cases)
Sauvignon Republic, 2006 Russian River Valley - $18 (6,000 cases/screwcap)
Spottswoode, 2005 Napa Valley - $32 (1,786 cases)
ZD, 2006 Rosa Lee, Napa Valley - $20 (552 cases/glass closure)
Based in San Francisco, Contributing Editor Steve Pitcher can be reached via e-mail at wine2words@aol.com.
