Wine Reviews from The Wine News
Tasters' Choice Selections
95 Chappellet Vineyard, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Pritchard Hill Estate Vineyard, Napa Valley
Inky hue with a garnet rim. Heady menthol aromas with blueberry and milk chocolate notes. Layers of supple cherry and mint flavors. Lasting and creamy with a cherry-chocolate finish. A perfectly balanced wine with charm and muscle. 1,300 cases / $110
93 Campo Eliseo, 2002 Tinta de Toro
Toro, Spain
Intense blue-black hue. Rich aromas of cherry, cocoa, pencil, bacon fat and a hint of iodine. Loaded with spicy cherry, plum and chocolate flavors with aggressive mineral notes. Youthful close; tannic and extremely dry with a defined oakiness. $50
93 Dow's, 1992 Colheita
Vintage Tawny, Porto, Portugal
Deep walnut hue with a copper rim. Extremely viscous; hangs on the glass. Warm aromas of caramel, honey and maple syrup. Juicy and rich with pecan, orange, cedar and honey flavors. Lasting sweetness and a nervy clove accent in the finish. $35
Best Value Selections
89 Redcliffe, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, New Zealand
White gold hue. Fresh aromas of grapefruit rind, green chili pepper and iodine. Nicely understated flavors of lime, minerals and chalk. Citrusy close. 25,000 cases / $11
91 St. Clement, 2002 Chardonnay
Carneros
Bright gold hue. Forward aromas of peach, nutmeg and honey. Full bodied and juicy with flavors of grapefruit, mango and peach. Lengthy close with a nectar-like richness and a pecan nuance. $16
88 Osborne, 1999 Late Bottled Vintage
Porto, Portugal
Medium garnet hue. Pungent, moderately sweet scents of black fruit, dust and balsamic vinegar. Flavors of candied cherry, brown sugar and milk chocolate are more forward than suggested by the nose. Finish features sweet cherry notes. $16
Publisher's Pick
97 Vitis Terrarum, 2001 Tempranillo
La Mancha, Spain
Impressive india ink hue with a garnet rim. An intense bouquet; first of resin and alcohol followed by plum and mocha. While laden with plum and blueberry fruit, this is a mineral-driven wine laced with black earth and graphite flavors. A classic example of old-vines tempranillo that is slow to open and should be decanted. 3,300 6-bottle cases / $79
California
Chardonnay
88 Alderbrook, 2001 Chardonnay
Reserve, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County
Yellow gold hue. Butter, vanilla and lemon drop aromas. Crisp lemon-lime flavors give way to a youthful metallic bite. Drying, mineral-like finish with a lingering oakiness. $26
86 Blackstone Winery, 2002 Chardonnay
Monterey County
Straw hue. Mixed bouquet of grapefruit, peach and wet stone. Lemon peel flavors with an edge of tartness. Short close. $11
89 Bouchaine, 2003 Chardonnay
Carneros
Bright gold hue. Creamy, sweet aromas of new oak, vanilla and lemon zest. Ripe and extremely juicy with nectar-like texture and flavors of apricot and peach. Clean, dry, balanced finish. $25
91 Cakebread Cellars, 2002 Chardonnay
Reserve, Carneros-Napa Valley
Shiny yellow hue with a tinge of green. Fresh lemon drop and new oak aromas. Pineapple, banana and apple flavors with youthful acidity adding vibrant character. Lasting fruit- and oak-driven finish. $49
93 Chappellet, 2003 Chardonnay
Napa Valley
Gold hue with a pea-green tint. A bouquet of sliced peaches, apple and vanillin oak. Tasty peach and pear flavors with a note of clove. Great length and richness with mango, peach and honey notes. $28
90 Charles Creek, 2003 Las Abuelas Chardonnay
Hyde Vineyard, Napa-Carneros
Deep gold hue with a tinge of emerald. Sliced apple scents with a note of lime peel. Exceedingly rich with grilled pineapple and apricot nectar flavors. Lengthy, toasted close. $39
85 CK Mondavi Vineyards, 2003 Chardonnay
Willow Springs, California
Yellow hue. Rich scents of apricot and honey. Flavors of grapefruit and apple have lively acidity. Mineral note in the finish. $10
88 Dutton Estate Winery, 2003 Chardonnay
Dutton Palms Vineyard, Russian River Valley
Bright gold hue. New oak aromas coupled with pineapple, apricot, banana and clove scents. Tart and crisp with a mix of green apple and fresh citrus flavors. Zesty finish shows a slight astringency. $40
92 Dutton Goldfield, 2002 Chardonnay
Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley
Yellow-gold hue. Fresh citrusy nose with butterscotch and clove accents. An oily textured wine with grapefruit, mineral and lemon drop flavors coupled with youthful acidity. Long close with well-integrated oak and butterscotch notes. $30
88 Foley, 2002 Chardonnay
Rancho Santa Rosa, Santa Rita Hills
Pale gold hue. Banana, vanilla and lime scents. Balanced citrus flavors with pinpoint acidity. The finish fattens up with a nectar-like sweetness. $30
88 Franciscan Oakville Estate, 2002 Chardonnay
Cuvée Sauvage, Wild Yeast, Carneros Napa Vly
Light gold hue. Clean aromas of pineapple, peach, clove and wet stone. Packed with sliced peach and mineral flavors. Aggressive oak lingers in the close. $33
87 Frog's Leap, 2003 Chardonnay
Napa Valley
Burnished gold hue. Forward aromas of nutmeg, honey and grilled pineapple. Tart apple and peach flavors laced by a persistent minerality. Dry finish. $24
89 Gainey, 2001 Unfiltered Chardonnay
Limited Selection, Santa Barbara Cty
Metallic gold hue. Light oak and peach aromas. Tart and zippy with fresh apple and citrus flavors. Clean, fresh close. $30
88 Gary Farrell, 2002 Chardonnay
Westside Farms, Russian River Valley
Pale gold hue. Rich aromas of butternut and honey. Balanced tropical fruit flavors. Still somewhat acidic with a steely bite in the finish. $34
85 Girard, 2003 Chardonnay
Russian River Valley
Yellow hue. Herbs and mineral scents with a hint of peppermint. Oily texture with astringent peach and mineral flavors. Sweetens up in the close. $20
90 Guenoc, 2002 Reserve Chardonnay
Genevieve Magoon Vnyd, Guenoc Valley
Burnished gold hue. Tangerine and toasted oak scents. Zesty citrus flavors with zippy acidity. Well-oaked finish with balancing ripe fruit notes. $26
85 Hahn Estates, 2003 Chardonnay
Monterey
Pale yellow with a tinge of green. Citrus and garden aromas. Butterscotch and peach flavors with a hint of white pepper. Spicy finish. $14
88 Hanna, 2002 Chardonnay
Russian River Valley
Bright gold hue. Peach and cut grass scents. Buttery flavors of orange, pecan and honey. Lengthy, viscous close with lingering toasted oak notes. $15
92 HDV, 2002 Chardonnay
Carneros
Gold hue. Shy aromas of banana peel, cinnamon and vanilla. Nicely harnessed tropical fruit flavors in a youthful, compact wine. Supple texture with fresh acids and lingering honey and toasted oak notes. $55
86 HRM Rex Goliath, 2003 Chardonnay
Free Range, Central Coast
Straw hue. Fresh aromas of lemon, vanilla and sliced apple. Dry but generous peach nectar flavors. Light, sweet finish; a perfect party wine. $9
87 Kenwood, 2003 Chardonnay
Reserve, Russian River Valley
Pale yellow hue. Mixed aromas of pineapple and lemon drop with a hint of dill. Round, lush flavors of pineapple and apple. Finishes on a sweet note. $20
91 Kunde Estate Winery, 2002 Chardonnay
Reserve, Sonoma Valley
Burnished gold hue. Peach, new oak and vanilla aromas. Full flavors of mango, banana and peach. Lengthy and rich, laced with crisp acidity that drives the well-oaked finish. $35
92 Morgan, 2002 Chardonnay
Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands
Bright gold hue. Sweet scents of pear nectar, honey and nutmeg. Oily texture with somewhat rich baked apple and peach flavors. Plenty of toasted oak in the close with a lingering note of butterscotch. $34
93 Morgan, 2002 Hat Trick Chardonnay
Double L Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands
Burnished gold hue. Fresh aromas of honey, apricot, sliced apple and toasted oak. Peach and apple flavors mesh with toasted oak and lemon zest notes. A youthful mineral nuance defines the finish. $50
86 Napa Ridge, 2003 Chardonnay
Napa Valley
Pale straw hue. Fresh aromas of peach, nectarine and vanilla. Oily texture with soft peach, pineapple and oak flavors. Finishes on an enjoyable sweet note. $12
92 Newton, 2002 Chardonnay
Unfiltered, Napa Valley
Deep gold hue. Uplifting peach, pecan and pineapple aromas. Supple texture with peach, honey and cream flavors. Sweet, lightly toasted close. $56
91 Oakville Ranch Vineyards, 2001 Chardonnay
Vista Vineyard, Napa Valley
Gold hue with a tinge of green. A vanillin bouquet with notes of bacon fat and oak. Creamy style with peach nectar and oak flavors. Clean, crisp finish. $30
89 Ortman Family Vineyard, 2002 Chardonnay
Edna Valley
Green-gold hue. Seamlessly integrated, perfumed aromas of apple, grapefruit, butter and clove. Balanced flavors of pineapple, peach, honey and white pepper. A note of bacon fat lifts the close. $24
90 Robert Craig, 2002 Chardonnay
Sonoma County
Deep yellow-gold hue. Uplifting aromas of banana, honey and bacon fat. Rather supple and lush, dripping with pineapple, peach and apricot flavors. Silky, rich finish with lingering toasted oak notes. $24
86 Rodney Strong, 2002 Chardonnay
Chalk Hill, Sonoma County
Pale gold hue. Minerally aromas of wet stone and sliced apple. Supple flavors of peach and pineapple. Medium-dry, fruit-driven close. $18
88 Simi, 2002 Chardonnay
Reserve, Russian River
Light gold hue. New oak aromas mix with lemon-lime notes. Ripe pineapple, apple and vanilla flavors. Good length with toasted oak and a lingering apple pie sweetness in the finish. $25
88 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 2003 Chardonnay
Napa Valley
Luminous green-gold hue. Ripe, sweet aromas of stone fruit, pineapple, honey and a pastry cream note. Full-bodied flavors of banana, citrus, toffee and a peach pit nuance. Silky, viscous close. $29
93 Sterling Vineyards, 2002 Chardonnay
Reserve, Napa Valley
Pale gold hue. Sliced peach aromas with a smoky, charred oak nuance. Supple texture with forward flavors of peach, glazed ham and brown spices. A lick of cinnamon in the finish. $40
90 Stonestreet, 2001 Chardonnay
Sonoma County
Deep gold hue. Buttery scents with plenty of toasted oak. Nectar-like sweetness with vanilla, peach and pecan flavors. Dry close features bright acidity and tropical fruit notes. $23
92 Talbott, 2001 Cuvée Cynthia Chardonnay
Unfined-Unfiltered, Monterey County
Burnished gold hue. Rich bouquet of honey, nutmeg, oak, pecan and a whiff of Sherry. Supple butternut flavors coupled with honey and grilled pineapple. Viscous finish loaded with oak, brown sugar and honey. Highly stylized and ready-to-drink. $55
87 Valley of the Moon, 2003 Chardonnay
Sonoma County
Pale straw hue. Forward lemon-lime scents that cue the salivary glands. Fresh citrus flavors and crisp acidity impart a minerally steeliness to the close. $15
86 Waterstone, 2002 Chardonnay
Carneros
Light gold hue. Spicy oak and clove scents. Considerable mineral and citrus peel flavors. Bone-dry finish. $18
85 William Hill Winery, 2002 Chardonnay
Napa Valley
Bright gold hue. Showy aromas of banana peel and honey with a slight leafy nuance. Apricot and peach flavors have fresh acidity. Drying close. $15
85 WineSmith, 2002 Faux Chablis
Student Vineyard, Napa Valley
White gold hue. Yeasty, vanillin scents. Dry with crisp acidity and lime peel flavors. Rather tart finish with a defined mineral aftertaste. $29
92 ZD Wines, 2002 Chardonnay
Reserve, Napa Valley
Bright gold hue. Full aromas of honey, cream and wood resin. Silky and rich with fat tropical fruit flavors. A full-blown finish with nectar-like sweetness joined nicely by toasted oak. $48
Cabernet & Blends
90 Chimney Rock, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley
Deep ruby hue. Dusty aromas of cherry, new oak, tobacco and vanilla. Expressive flavors of ripe cherry, citrus, oak char and lots of mocha. Lasting close shows ample fruit and vanilla. $45
86 Coastal Ridge, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
California
Bright garnet hue. Fresh blueberry, plum and new leather scents. Soft and smoky cherry, cedar and oak flavors. Crisp, lively finish. $7
88 Fisher Vineyards, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Coach Insignia, Napa Valley
Black hue. Earthy, pungent aromas of cherry, tea and black earth. Sweet tannins frame flavors of cherry, cedar and walnut. Lingering, chalky close. $65
85 Forrest Glen, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Oak Barrel Selection, California
Blackish garnet hue. Aromas of cedar, pencil and plum. Tart cherry flavors and a spicy evergreen note lead to a well-oaked, drying finish. $10
90 Juslyn Vineyards, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Vineyard Select, Napa Valley
Crimson hue. Warm, earthy aromas of stewed plum, cedar, clove and mocha. Well-balanced flavors of cherry, blackberry, charred oak and smoke. Soft, fruity finish. $75
88 Juslyn Vineyards, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Spring Mountain, Napa Valley
Dense inky hue. Very smoky aromas of black fruit, tobacco, minerals and charred oak. Concentrated, quite earthy flavors of cranberry, cherry and minerals. Close is a bit green. $85
89 Niebaum-Coppola, 2001 Cask Cabernet
Rutherford
Deep garnet hue. Smoky scents of black cherry, tar and tobacco. Intense flavors of cherry, citrus, chocolate, tobacco and earth framed by somewhat shrill acidity. Lengthy close. $65
92 Oakville Ranch, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Napa Valley
Brooding garnet hue. New oak, cedar, black earth and peppermint aromas. Compact, with fine-grain tannins and ample cherry and clove flavors. Dry, oak-driven finish has a lingering sweetness. $100
88 Oakville Ranch, 2000 Robert's Blend
Reserve, Napa Valley
Unfiltered garnet hue. Warm aromas of cherry, tobacco, oak and lanolin. Cedar and red fruit flavors with a note of pencil lead. Peppery cedar and mineral flavors in the close. $75
87 Quintessa, 2001 Red Wine
Rutherford, Napa Valley
Deep crimson hue. Fresh scents of cherry, maple, leather and a sawdust note. Spicy flavors of cherry, citrus, fruitcake and black coffee. Tight finish. $100
88 Ristow Estate, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Quinta de Pedras Vineyard, Napa Valley
Inky black hue. Intense aromas of plum, violet, earth and clove. Supple flavors of blackberry, graphite, mocha and black earth. Tooth-coating finish. $64
90 Sbragia, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Rancho del Oso, Howell Mt. Napa Valley
Garnet hue. Dusty aromas of new oak, chocolate and smoke with the fruit in the background. Crisp, spicy flavors of cherry, blackberry, licorice and coffee are more forward than suggested by the nose. Lasting, racy close has ample fruit. $75
91 Spottswoode, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Spottswoode Estate Vineyard, Napa Valley
Dense purple hue. Warm aromas of cherry, citrus, coffee and a barnyard note. Extracted flavors of red berry, mocha, minerals, oak and a vanilla nuance. Creamy close sports lots of chocolate. $90
88 Sterling, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Napa Valley
Deep crimson hue. Shy, waxy aromas of raspberry, cherry and mint. Balanced flavors of raspberry, sweetened coffee and caramel are somewhat lean. Crisp close marked by red fruit. $80
91 ZD Wines, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Napa Valley
Deep garnet hue. A big dose of oak leads to integrated aromas of black fruit, cola, clove and mint. Intense, juicy flavors of black cherry, spicy oak and minerals are vibrant and forward. Sweet finish. $115
Pinot Noir
86 Buchli Station, 2003 Pinot Noir
California
Intense purple hue. Warm aromas of black cherry, licorice and mint. Bright, sweet flavors of cherry, smoke and black earth. Crowd-pleasing finish. $12
89 Cakebread Cellars, 2002 Pinot Noir
Carneros, Napa Valley
Black-garnet hue. Peppery, perfumed scents of rhubarb, cherry, smoke, cinnamon and maple. Extracted flavors of cherry, sweetened coffee, cedar and brown sugar. Crisp close. $44
86 Chateau St. Jean, 2003 Pinot Noir
Sonoma County
Deep purple hue. Gamy scents of plum, dried leaves, cedar and smoke. Forward flavors of cherry, coffee and earth. Juicy finish shows ripe fruit. $19
88 Clos LaChance, 2002 Pinot Noir
Santa Cruz Mountains
Rusty cranberry hue. Forceful aromas of strawberry, cedar, sweet oak and dried leaves. Tart flavors of cherry, forest floor and clove. Long, warm close. $25
88 Deloach, 2002 Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley
Medium garnet hue with a faded rim. Herbal scents of cherry cola, mushroom, clove and smoke. Syrupy texture frames flavors of cooked cherry, licorice, vanilla and chalk. Slightly hot close. $29
88 Dutton Estate Winery, 2002 Pinot Noir
Jewell Block Vnyd, Russian River Valley
Garnet hue with a clear rim. Smoky aromas of boysenberry, licorice, wet leaves and brown sugar. Big flavors of black fruit, root beer and chocolate. Warm, spicy finish. $48
90 Dutton Estate Winery, 2002 Pinot Noir
Thomas Road Vnyd, Russian River Valley
Bright ruby hue with a brick rim. Nicely integrated aromas of cherry, rose petal, forest floor and cedar. Palate-coating flavors of blackberry, chocolate, brown sugar and a lean citrus peel note. Tingly close shows black coffee. $40
85 ForestVille, 2003 Pinot Noir
Los Carneros
Vibrant red hue. Scents of black cherry, coffee and redwood. Dried cherry flavors. A well-defined earthiness in the close. $16
90 Gary Farrell, 2002 Pinot Noir
Allen Vnyd-Hillside Block, Russian River Vly
Reddish-black hue. Big aromas of raspberry, smoke, nutmeg, dust and new oak. Juicy flavors of sweet cherry, loganberry, maple and oak spice. Finish marked by cherry, maple and cinnamon. $50
91 Gary Farrell, 2002 Pinot Noir
Rochioli-Allen Vnyds, Russian River Vly
Bright purple hue. Beautifully integrated aromas of cherry, raspberry, dust, charred oak and brown sugar. Even more expressive in the mouth with flavors of ripe cherry, citrus, coffee and licorice. Long, sweet close loaded with intense fruit. $60
87 Laurier, 2003 Pinot Noir
Sonoma County
Intense ruby hue. Expressive aromas of raspberry, tea, pencil and tomato leaf. Earthy red fruit flavors laced with fine-grain tannins. Peppery finish. $15
86 Migration, 2002 Pinot Noir
Anderson Valley
Black-purple hue. Subdued aromas of cherry, earth and pencil. Juicy flavors of blackberry syrup, brown sugar and tea. Close is quite sweet. $26
89 Morgan, 2002 Pinot Noir
Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands
Bright garnet hue. Smoky aromas of blackberry jam, orange peel, campfire and brown sugar. Sweetly extracted flavors of blackberry, smoke and tea. Finish is a touch hot. $38
88 Morgan, 2002 Pinot Noir
Gary's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands
Light garnet hue. Perfumed aromas of red cherry, citrus, cedar and rose petal. Balanced flavors of cherry, cranberry and toasted oak. Lingering, sweet close. $38
88 Ortman Family Vineyard, 2002 Pinot Noir
Santa Barbara County
Deep ruby hue. Pungent, cedary aromas of plum, cherry, chocolate and oak char. Sweet, tangy flavors of raspberry, tobacco and a touch of vanilla. Creamy finish has ample fruit. $34
87 Paraiso, 2002 Pinot Noir
Monterey County
Deep garnet hue. Integrated aromas of rhubarb, crushed berries, clove and mint. Earthy flavors of black fruit, oak, mint and chocolate. Tangy close. $18
Oregon
91 King Estate, 2003 Domaine Pinot Gris
Oregon
Bright straw hue. A perfumed bouquet of white peach, fig, clove and a whiff of cinnamon. Honeydew melon and pineapple flavors with a note of ginger. Juicy, ripe finish. $25
88 King Estate, 2001 Domaine Pinot Noir
Oregon
Deep garnet hue. Bright scents of cherry, dust and a vanilla note. Big flavors of ripe cherry, leather and toasted oak. Long close shows lots of fruit. $50
Washington
Chardonnay
87 Canoe Ridge Vineyard, 2003 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
Medium yellow hue. Ripe aromas of banana, apricot and lemon zest. Juicy texture frames flavors of lemon, pear and honey. Short finish. $19
86 Columbia Winery, 2002 Chardonnay
Signature Series, Wyckoff Vnyd, Yakima Vly
Deep gold hue. Restrained aromas of green pineapple, orange peel and a hint of butterscotch. Low-key flavors of grapefruit, tangerine and caramel. Toasty close. $19
86 Covey Run, 2002 Chardonnay
Washington
Yellow-gold hue. Light scents of lemon, wet stone and a hint of butter. Flavors of lemon and minerals have a green nuance to them. Tart grapefruit highlights the finish. $9
Cabernet & Blends
88 Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Columbia Valley
Deep ruby hue. Smoky aromas of blackberry, cinnamon, cedar and a bell pepper note. Zesty flavors of plum, dried cherry, tobacco and cedar box. Very dry close shows red fruit. $33
89 Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2001 Meritage
Columbia Valley
Unfiltered garnet hue. Bright aromas of cherry, chocolate, menthol and pencil with a hint of bell pepper. Lean, crisp flavors of rhubarb, cherry, coffee and spicy oak. Warm, cedar-laced close. $48
91 Columbia Crest, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Columbia Valley
Deep purple hue. Well-knit aromas of cherry, cassis, cola and chocolate. Soft, approachable flavors of sweet cherry, mint, vanillin oak and black walnut. Spicy finish loaded with plum. $30
91 Columbia Crest, 2001 Walter Clore
Private Reserve, Columbia Valley
Vibrant purple hue. Warm aromas of black cherry, plum, mint and coffee. Soft, concentrated flavors of cherry cola, blueberry, date, charred oak and lots of chocolate. Mineral notes persist throughout the fruit-soaked close. $35
87 Columbia Winery, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley
Deep ruby hue with a faded rim. Pleasing scents of cherry, plum, mocha and oak char. Sweet-tart flavors of cherry, tea, tobacco and earth. Racy finish. $15
Merlot
87 Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2002 Merlot
Canoe Ridge Estate, Columbia Valley
Deep garnet hue. A pronounced earthiness marks aromas of cranberry, tobacco and bittersweet chocolate. Flavors of red fruit, unsweetened chocolate and coffee. Close shows tart fruit. $24
87 Chateau Ste. Michelle, 2002 Merlot
Cold Creek Vineyard, Columbia Valley
Black hue. Forward aromas of blackberry and pencil with smoke and mocha notes. Flavors of cherry, coffee and mint have a soft entry. Flinty finish. $33
87 Columbia Crest, 2001 Merlot
Reserve, Columbia Valley
Inky black hue. Earthy aromas of red fruit, bell pepper and tobacco. Flavors of sweet cherry, black earth and pencil. Peppery close. $30
86 Covey Run, 2001 Merlot
Reserve, Columbia Valley
Dense garnet hue. Restrained aromas of citrus, cherry, caramel and mint. Lean flavors of blackberry, citrus peel and earth. A floral note in the otherwise tight finish. $22
89 Northstar Winery, 2001 Merlot
Columbia Valley
Deep crimson hue. Sweet aromas of black cherry, menthol, tobacco and tomato leaf. Ripe flavors of plum, cherry, charred oak and cola are silky, though not opulent. Milk chocolate highlights the close. $52
Australia
Chardonnay
86 Banrock Station, 2004 Chardonnay
South Eastern Australia
Bright gold hue. Aromas of apple, grapefruit and nutmeg with a bacon fat note. Oak wraps flavors of peach, butterscotch and minerals. Spritzy close. $7
90 Penfolds, 2001 Yattarna Chardonnay
South Eastern Australia
Bright yellow hue. Forward aromas of banana peel, peach, honey, oak and tobacco. Soft, nicely balanced flavors of lemon, peach nectar, clove and honey. Tart citrus keeps the rich finish lively. $65
88 Rosemount Estate, 2002 Chardonnay
Show Reserve, Hunter Valley
Deep gold hue. Subtle scents of pineapple, honey, bacon fat and new oak. Sweet flavors of tropical fruit, caramel and butter. Long, spicy close. $20
88 Tyrrell's Wines, 2003 Chardonnay
Reserve, Hunter Valley
Medium gold hue. Big aromas of lemon, nougat, clove and sweet butter. Tangy, buttery flavors of apricot, clove, apple and oak. A charred oak note lifts the finish. $25
87 Wolf Blass, 2003 Chardonnay
Gold Label, Adelaide Hills
Pale gold hue with a green tint. Pleasing mix of lime, pineapple, menthol and vanilla aromas. Soft flavors of citrus, banana and pollen. Sweet, buttery close. $20
Cabernet Sauvignon
86 Peter Lehmann, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Barossa
Deep garnet hue with a faded rim. Pungent aromas of black plum, clove and pencil. Tart flavors of cranberry, oak and smoke. Dry, citrusy finish. $16
91 Wolf Blass, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Grey Label, Langhorne Creek
Intense black hue. Supple, ripe aromas of black currant, cherry, mocha, vanillin oak and mint. Rich, earthy flavors of blackberry, citrus, minerals and redwood. Tangy, youthful close is full of fruit. $32
90 Wolf Blass, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Gold Label, Coonawarra
Black-garnet hue. Cedary scents of plum, evergreen, coffee and chocolate with an herbal nuance. Balanced flavors of black fruit, bittersweet chocolate and minerals have a pleasant leanness. Berry fruit and earth dominate the spicy finish. $24
Shiraz
86 Alice White, 2003 Shiraz
South Eastern Australia
Deep garnet hue. Woodsy scents of blueberry, plum and smoke. Concentrated, earthy flavors of black fruit, coffee and tar. Youthful finish. $7
88 Annie's Lane, 2000 Copper Trail Shiraz
Clare Valley
Brick red hue. Pungent scents of stewed rhubarb, plum and brown sugar. A campfire note adds nuance to flavors of blackberry, bacon fat, maple and earth. Lingering close features lots of redwood. $30
84 Banrock Station, 2002 Shiraz
South Eastern Australia
Deep garnet hue with a faded rim. Fresh aromas of citrus, apple and leather. Lean, dusty flavors of raspberry and citrus peel. Tart finish. $6
88 Chateau Reynella, 2002 Shiraz
Basket Pressed, McLaren Vale
Reddish-black hue. Tart aromas of citrus, cranberry, tea and coffee bean. Very concentrated flavors of mixed berries, cherry, gun flint and black earth. Long close marked by spicy fruit. $28
84 Lindemans, 2002 Bin 50 Shiraz
South Eastern Australia
Black-garnet hue. Perfumed scents of rhubarb pie, cherry juice and dust. Tarry flavors of blackberry and earth. Dry close. $8
86 M. Chapoutier, 2000 Shiraz
Mt. Benson
Black hue. Gamy aromas of earth, smoke and gravel with the fruit in the background. Intense flavors of red fruit, citrus, graphite and dark chocolate. Earthy finish with the barest suggestion of vanilla. $24
90 McWilliams of Coonawarra, 2000 Shiraz
Old Vines, Stentiford's Reserve, Coonawarra
Crimson-black hue. Spicy aromas of plum, cedar, tobacco, mint and mushroom. Minerally flavors of cherry compote, Worcestershire sauce and oak have a creamy texture. Long, sweet, smoky close. $45
86 McWilliams Hanwood Estate, 2002 Shiraz
South Eastern Australia
Black hue. Dense aromas of cherry, pencil lead and smoke. Flavors of cherry, cranberry and Worcestershire sauce. Minerally finish. $11
87 Penfolds, 2001 Bin 128 Shiraz
Coonawarra
Deep crimson hue. Dusty aromas of blueberry jam, cotton candy and black pepper. Flavors of black cherry, cedar, tar and tobacco are more expressive than suggested by the nose. Woody close. $24
88 Penfolds, 2001 Kalimna Bin 28 Shiraz
South Australia
Black-purple hue. Sweet aromas of cherry, chocolate, tobacco and a citrus note. Spicy flavors of cherry, citrus, black pepper and chocolate. Lively finish. $24
91 Penfolds, 2001 RWT Shiraz
Barossa Valley
Black hue with a garnet rim. Big aromas of black plum, cherry, minerals, clove and black pepper. Rich flavors of sweet cherry, cedar, coffee and chocolate are very concentrated but in control. Roasted black fruit in the long close. $80
86 Penfolds, 2000 St. Henri Shiraz
South Australia
Black-garnet hue. Cedary scents of plum, maple, leather and mocha. Tangy flavors of tart cherry, pencil lead and coffee. Dry, woody finish. $40
89 Petaluma, 2001 Shiraz
Adelaide Hills
Dense purple hue. Shy, lightly perfumed aromas of cherry, mocha, coffee and licorice. Very earthy flavors of black fruit, smoke, black pepper and chocolate covered mint. Sweet, jammy close. $31
88 Peter Lehmann, 1999 Eight Songs Shiraz
Barossa
Ruby-black hue. Nicely integrated aromas of cherry, wild berries, tobacco and dust. Juicy flavors of cherry cola, plum, maple, mocha and earth. Well-meshed fruit and wood notes in the finish. $45
91 Peter Lehmann, 1998 Stonewell Shiraz
Barossa
Deep garnet hue. Warm aromas of fig, date, plum, evergreen and mint with a rose water note. Plush flavors of cherry, licorice, semi-sweet chocolate and earth are Port-like without the sweetness. Cooked-down fruit in the lengthy close. $75
86 St. Hallet, 2000 Old Block Shiraz
Barossa
Medium garnet hue. Forward aromas of black fruit, dust, mint and a root beer note. Very tangy flavors of sweet-tart cherry, milk chocolate and maple. Asian spices heighten the finish. $53
87 Wirra Wirra Vineyards, 2002 Shiraz
Scrubby Rise, South Australia
Inky hue. Pungent aromas of brambly red fruit, cedar and earth. Very extracted flavors of blackberry syrup, cherry and bacon fat. Big, biting close. $11
91 Wolf Blass, 2001 Shiraz
Platinum Label, Adelaide Hills
Dense black hue with a fuchsia rim. Big, complex aromas of blueberry, blackberry, fruitcake spice, minerals and menthol. Luscious, spicy flavors of blackberry, cherry, coffee, chocolate and toasted clove. Peppery, mocha-infused finish. $72
88 Wolf Blass, 2002 Shiraz
Gold Label, Barossa
Dense purple hue. Fresh aromas of pencil, smoke, tar and coffee bean with the fruit in the background. Concentrated flavors of blackberry, plum, graphite, mocha and vanilla. Long, intense close. $24
86 Wynns Coonawarra Estate, 2002 Shiraz
Coonawarra
Black hue. Heady scents of plum, maple and a big dose of coconut. Flavors of black plum, cherry, caramel and ample new oak. Zesty finish. $12
New Zealand
Chardonnay
91 Felton Road, 2002 Chardonnay
Central Otago
Burnished gold hue. Rich aromas of lemon candy, pineapple, toasted oak and clove. Very buttery, mature flavors of lime, peach and wood spice. Lasting finish shows peach and citrus notes. $31
89 Kumeu River, 2003 Chardonnay
Maté's Vineyard, Kumeu
Bright gold hue. Pleasingly restained aromas of apple, pineapple, butterscotch and charred oak. Rich flavors of pineapple, caramel, beeswax and toasted oak. Soft, sweet close. $37
86 Kumeu River, 2003 Chardonnay
Kumeu
Medium gold hue. Buttery aromas of banana peel, pineapple, clove and a charred oak note. Zingy flavors of kiwi, grapefruit and green apple. Steely finish. $32
Sauvignon Blanc
87 Kathy Lynskey Wines, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Vineyard Select, Marlborough
Pale ivory hue. Very varietal scents of grapefruit, herbs and a mineral note. Tangy flavors of lemon drop and grapefruit have a nice mouth-feel. Honeydew melon marks the close. $17
87 Omaka Springs, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
Ivory hue. Floral aromas of lime peel, honeydew melon and minerals. Sweet-tart flavors of lime and bell pepper have a slight metallic edge. Clean finish. $17
87 Stoneleigh, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
Bright gold hue. Prickly aromas of just-sliced pear and lots of bell pepper. Pleasing mouth-feel frames flavors of grapefruit and asparagus. Soft close. $16
86 Thornbury, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
Pale straw-gold hue. Shy scents of red apple, orange peel and a citrus blossom note. Very tart flavors of pink grapefruit and celery. Herbal finish. $19
88 Wither Hills, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
Light white gold hue. Pungent aromas of lime, chili pepper and a cat box note. Juicy flavors of grapefruit, bell pepper and mineral are zesty without being shrill. Crisp close. $17
Pinot Noir
86 Matua Valley, 2002 Pinot Noir
Wairarapa
Medium garnet hue. Dusty, aged aromas of dried cherry, mushroom and leather. Lean, spicy flavors of tart cherry and smoke. Woody close. $20
85 Thornbury, 2003 Pinot Noir
Marlborough
Bright fuchsia hue. Pungent aromas of stewed plum, licorice and chocolate. Warm flavors of plum, oak and black pepper. Somewhat hot finish. $30
France
87 Dujac Fils & Père, 2001 Meursault
Meursault
Burnished gold hue. Rich scents of apricot, pear, honey and oak spice. Creamy flavors of banana, crème brûlée and oak. Pear in the dry close. $44
88 Mommessin, 2003 2 Terroirs Pouilly-Fuissé
Pouilly-Fuissé
Deep gold hue. Warm aromas of apricot, honey and butterscotch. Mouth-coating flavors of ripe apple, peach, butter and clove. Tangy, nectar-like finish. $30
91 Dujac Fils & Père, 2000 Gevrey-Chambertin
Gevrey-Chambertin
Deep garnet hue. Heady aromas of cherry, earth, cedar and clove improve with airing. Big, somewhat tight flavors of cherry, coffee, tobacco and a touch of vanillin oak. Spicy, food-friendly finish. $38
Romanée-Conti
The wines that follow were reviewed by Contributing Editor Gerald D. Boyd on December 8, 2004 at a tasting held at COPIA in Napa Valley led by Aubert de Villane, co-director of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. The wines were not tasted blind. Quoted prices are approximate retail based on the fluctuation of the U.S. dollar and the euro. 2002 Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru
Rose petal and cherry-berry aromas. Delicate flavors, bright cherry accents, hints of cinnamon; crisp acidity. Medium to long finish. $125 / Very Good 2002 Echézeaux Grand Cru
Deep-set, concentrated black-cherry nose with spice notes. Black cherry and plum flavors with a hint of sweet spice. Good length in the finish with lingering fruit notes. $225 / Very Good 2002 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru
Lovely, inviting, complex pinot aromas of ripe berries and spice notes. Richly textured flavors with big black cherry-berry accents and an underlying spicy oak note. $350 / Outstanding 2002 Romanée-St. Vivant Grand Cru
Slightly muted cherry-berry nose with tea notes. Deeply layered flavors of black cherry and spice with great texture and fruit density. Perfect balance and length. $475 / Outstanding 2002 Richebourg Grand Cru
Black fruit aromatics with spice, leather and floral notes. Richly textured mouth-feel with layered black cherry, plum and spice flavors. Excellent acidity and length. $500 / Superb 2002 La Tâche Grand Cru
Tight nose of black cherry and spicy oak opens to more forward berry aromas. Tight, slightly closed flavors of layered black cherry and plum. Great acidity and tannin structure. $575 / Outstanding 2002 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru
Fragrant rose petal and ripe berry aromatics. Delicate tart cherry-berry flavors, excellent balance and acidity. The ne plus ultra of the DRC wines that is just beginning to show its merits. $1,650 / Outstanding-Superb 2002 Montrachet Grand Cru
Deep floral-pear nose, with spice and acacia accents. Richly textured flavors of delicate stone fruit and oak notes. Great balance, impressive mouth-feel and length. The essence of great Chardonnay. $1,500 / Superb Portugal
Port
88 Dow's, Crusted
Porto
Dense blackish hue with a fuchsia rim. Ripe aromas of plum, prune and a whiff of peppermint. Spicy cherry flavors with chocolate and cinnamon notes. This classic Crusted Port starts out soft and creamy and finishes on a crisp, racy note. $23
87 Dow's, Trademark Reserve
Porto
Deep crimson-ruby hue. Earthy aromas of candied fruit and smoke. Soft flavors of sugared raisin, black cherry and an alcohol warmth are very sweet. Ample fruit and tobacco in the close. $18
90 Graham's, Six Grapes Reserve
Porto
Black-garnet hue. Perfumed, well-integrated aromas of cherry, plum, licorice and minerals. Moderately sweet, nicely balanced flavors of red cherry and milk chocolate. Seamless finish shows sweet fruit. $20
93 Graham's, 20 Year Old Tawny
Porto
Reflective honey hue. Mixed aromas of cola, brown sugar, pecan, citrus peel and crème brûlée. Creamy texture with butterscotch and warm caramel flavors spiked with an edgy, citrus zing. Alcohol adds a spiciness to the close. $49
91 Osborne, 2000 Vintage
Porto
Bright garnet hue with a fuchsia rim. Warm, reserved aromas of stewed plum, licorice and baking spices. Silky flavors of ripe blackberry, chocolate and graphite remain in balance despite their heft. Fig and candied fruit in the long finish. $60
88 Osborne, 10 Year Old Tawny
Porto
Rusty amber hue. Pungent and sweet with concentrated honey, maple and orange peel aromas. Crisp citrus, apricot and spicy cedar flavors coupled with stinging acidity. Lively, youthful close with a touch of honey. $25
91 Sandeman, 20 Year Old Tawny
Porto
An attractive burnished amber hue. Well-defined aromas of caramel, brown sugar and alcohol. Exotic flavors of oven-dried orange slices, caramel and butterscotch. Lingering sweetness with laser-like acidity and honey and nutmeg notes. $50
86 Smith Woodhouse, Lodge Reserve
Porto
Deep garnet hue. Restrained, dusty aromas of cherry, tobacco and minerals. Balanced flavors of plum, sweet cherry and tobacco. Syrupy close. $16
92 Smith Woodhouse, 1992 Late Bottled Vintage
Porto
Medium garnet hue with a ruby rim. Forceful aromas of stewed plum, smoke and Worcestershire sauce. Sweet, balanced flavors of blackberry, blueberry, espresso bean and wood spices. Rich, chewy close is loaded with fruit. $26
92 Smith Woodhouse, 1986 Colheita
Vintage Tawny, Porto
Amber hue with a burnished gold rim. Powerful bouquet of orange marmalade, tea, honey and taffy. Creamy, honeyed flavors of caramel and clove. Unctuous finish packed with honey and nutmeg. $44
Spain
The Rias Baixas DO wines that follow were reviewed by Publisher Tom E. Smith in September at a tasting held in Pontevedra, Spain, hosted by the region's Consello Regulador. The wines were not tasted blind and represent three basic categories. Prices range from $12 to $30. Rias Baixas Albariño 83 Quinto de Couselo, 2003 Albariño
Turonia, Rias Baixas
Clean, fresh citrus aromas. Crisp and steely with an acidic, lime peel bite. Light mineral finish.
85 Adegas Gran Vinun, 2003 Albariño
Esencia Diviña, Rias Baixas
Shy floral scents with a hint of minerals. Grassy, acidic flavors that finish on a green note. A somewhat racy, spicy style.
87 Adegas Gran Vinun, 2003 Albariño
Rias Baixas
Sweet, creamy aromas with a secondary lemon scent. Lively lemon and mineral flavors that carry through to a lengthy, bone-dry close.
87 Martin Codax, 2003 Albariño
Rias Baixas
Classic citrus and mineral scents. Youthful and lively with lemon peel flavors laced with stinging acidity. Ripe melon-like sweetness picks up the finish.
85 Martin Codax, 2003 Albariño
Bargans, Rias Baixas
Light lemon-lime scents with a pungent whiff of wet stone. Tart lemon drop flavors show a light sweetness in the close.
85 Marqués de Vizhoja, 2003 Albariño
Torre La Moreira, Rias Baixas
Perfumed white flower scents. Sweet, juicy and clean with soft acidity and a dry, dusty finish.
84 Bodegas La Val, 2003 Albariño
Rias Baixas
A combination of wet stone and toasted oak scents. Extremely ripe melon flavors with barely a note of supporting acids.
90 Bodegas La Val, 2003 Albariño
Torres de Arantel, Rias Baixas
Uplifting butterscotch scents with a flinty note. Grapefruit and melon flavors with steely acidity that punctuates the lively, squeaky-clean finish.
88 Adegas Valdés, 2003 Albariño
Gundían, Rias Baixas
Atypical style with white flower and vanilla extract aromas. Rather fat and juicy with a honeydew melon-like sweetness. A lengthy finish which lacks the bracing acidity found in more traditional Albariños, though tasty and loaded with fruit.
88 Bodegas Couto, 2003 Albariño
Serra da Estrela, Rias Baixas
Fresh, zesty and clean citrus peel aromas. Spritzy lemon-lime flavors with youthful acids that add to the already crisp structure. Flinty, bone-dry close.
87 Pazo Pondal, 2003 Albariño
Pazo Pondal, Rias Baixas
Highly aromatic with orange blossom scents and a note of vanilla. Very dry and acidic with earthy, wet stone flavors that carry through to the finish.
87 Bodegas Castrol Brey, 2003 Albariño
Señorio de Cruces, Rias Baixas
Shy mineral scents with light melon notes. Dry and tart with a Key lime bite. Chalky, with razor-sharp acidity and a dry close.
86 Bodegas Castrol Brey, 2003 Albariño
Castro Valdés, Rias Baixas
Vanilla and lemon peel scents. Plump and creamy with citrus flavors that turn mineral-like in the finish. An unusual sweet-and-sour style.
85 Adegas Valmiñor, 2003 Albariño
Valmiñor, Rias Baixas
Dusty, mineral nose. Rather forward and ripe flavors of pineapple and vanilla. Soft and sweet with little, if any, acidic backing.
90 Bodegas Castro Martin, 2003 Albariño
Avian, Rias Baixas
Buttery aromas have the sweetness of pecan pie. Grilled pineapple and melon flavors possess ample acidity to carry the wine's sweetness. A lengthy finish with heft.
91 Bodegas Castro Martin, 2003 Albariño
Castro Martin, Rias Baixas
Uplifting pineapple and vanilla scents. Tasty sliced apple and mineral flavors with balancing acidity that provides a sense of freshness in the close.
86 Bodegas Agnusdei, 2003 Albariño
Agnusdei, Rias Baixas
Earthy garden scents with a note of grapefruit. Tart lemon flavors and a defined mineral nuance that continues to the chalk- and slate-accented finish.
92 Mar de Frades, 2003 Albariño
Rias Baixas
Rich aromas of pecan, butter and nutmeg. Fresh peach and honey flavors have an acidic, though not stinging, presence. Supple close that continues on a brown spice and honey path.
87 Mar de Frades, 2003 Albariño
Arautiam, Rias Baixas
New lumber scents with green apple highlights. Light pineapple, apple and mineral flavors that finish on a dry note.
94 Coto de Xibre, 2003 Albariño
Maior de Mendoza, Rias Baixas
Attractive scents of apple butter and honey. Lovely sliced apple, apricot and honey flavors. Lengthy and juicy with a balancing, youthful tartness in the close.
88 Coto de Xibre, 2003 Albariño
Fulget, Rias Baixas
Nose of zesty citrus and wet stone. Steely and tart with sliced green apple flavors and a dry, squeaky-clean finish.
83 Bouza do Rei, 2003 Albariño
Rias Baixas
Pungent scents with a note of sulfur. Citrus and wet stone flavors that finish somewhat light and simple.
93 Bouza do Rei, 2003 Albariño
Castel de Bouza, Rias Baixas
Aromas of fresh peach and apple butter. Honeyed nectarine and peach flavors laced with youthful acids. Great length with a spritzy, green-apple tang.
88 Lagar de Fornelos, 2003 Albariño
Lagar de Cervera, Rias Baixas
Forward aromas of brown spices, peach and nectarine. Sliced peach flavors with a crisp edge of steely acids. Lengthy finish with a mix of mineral and tropical fruit flavors.
87 Bodegas Pablo Padín, 2003 Albariño
Segrel Ambar, Rias Baixas
Celery-like scents with a whiff of honeydew. Green apple and mineral flavors with a note of clove in the close.
88 Bodegas As Laxas, 2003 Albariño
Laxas, Rias Baixas
Light floral and melon scents. Ripe nectarine and honey flavors checked by crisp acids and a pungent, mineral-like nuance in the finish.
88 Bodegas As Laxas, 2003 Albariño
Bágoa do Miño, Rias Baixas
Forward aromas of apple and cinnamon. Loaded with brown spice and honey flavors with typical mineral accents in an otherwise atypical wine.
84 Bodegas Agro de Bazán, 2003 Albariño
Gran Bazán Ámbar, Rias Baixas
Pungent, slate-like aromas. Very light, airy wine with citrus and mineral flavors. Somewhat simple finish.
87 Bodegas Agro de Bazán, 2003 Albariño
Gran Bazán Verde, Rias Baixas
Mixed aromas of slate, wet stone and melon. Dried apricot and melon flavors with a fresh, zesty lemon-lime close.
92 Palacio de Fefiñanes, 2003 Albariño
Fefiñanes, Rias Baixas
Forward aromas of peach and slate. Crisp lemon drop flavors with vibrant acidity. A racy, youthful wine with excellent balance and structure.
86 Valdamor, 2003 Albariño
Valdamor, Rias Baixas
Fresh melon and vanilla aromas with a whiff of honey. Light and lean with pinpoint citrus flavors and a dry, somewhat astringent close.
85 Bodegas Pàzo Señoràns, 2003 Albariño
Pàzo Señoràns, Rias Baixas
Pungent, smoky aromas. Ripe pineapple flavors with an herbal influence. Tart finish with a lime peel-like astringency.
79 Bodegas Pàzo Señoràns, 2000 Albariño
Selecciòn de Añada, Rias Baixas
Earthy and damp garden aromas. Sugary sweet flavors with a conflicting tomato leaf greenness. Soft close with little acidic backing.
86 Condes de Albarei, 2003 Albariño
Rias Baixas
Rich butterscotch scents. Soft and sweet with nutmeg and caramel flavors that spice up the metallic bite in the finish.
90 Valdumia, 2003 Albariño
Rias Baixas
Sliced apple scents with a note of clove. Crisp and zesty with a continuation of the green apple theme in the mouth. Racy finish with a lingering mineral quality.
92 Bodegas Vionta, 2003 Albariño
Rias Baixas
Apple aromas with a hint of pencil lead. Zesty citrus and mineral flavors with almost stinging acidity. Lengthy, fresh, youthful finish. A fabulous oyster wine.
90 Lagar de Besada, 2003 Albariño
Viña Baladiã, Rias Baixas
A shy bouquet emitting light aromas of sliced apples. Crisp citrus and apple flavors. A vibrant, fresh wine with a core of youthful acidity. Classic style.
88 Lagar de Besada, 2003 Albariño
Ex Libris, Rias Baixas
Aromas of wet stone and clove. Crisp lemon-lime flavors with bone-dry, mineral flavors. Young, clean and tasty.
88 Pazo San Mauro, 2003 Albariño
Pazo San Mauro, Rias Baixas
Earthy mineral and melon scents. Ripe honeydew flavors with a drying, slate-like nuance. Light, crisp style with a fresh kiss of citrus in the close.
88 Bodegas Gerardo Mendez, 2003 Albariño
Ferreiro, Rias Baixas
Scents of ripe melon and honey. Tropical fruit flavors with an easy-drinking, soft texture. Medium-sweet style with tempered acidity.
Blends
86 Quinto de Couselo, 2003 Blend
Rias Baixas
Forward fruit aromas emitting honeydew melon and grapefruit. Ripe and juicy with lively grapefruit flavors. Fresh, youthful acidity cleans up the finish.
90 Marqués de Vizhoja, 2003 Señor da Folla
Verde Blend, Rias Baixas
Bright aromas of grapefruit and apricot. Ripe apricot and banana flavors tempered by balanced acidity. A good lick of vanilla in the tasty, harmonious close.
90 Bodegas Santiago Ruiz, 2003 Blend
Rias Baixas
Light honeydew melon scents. Ample melon and grapefruit flavors with fresh, vibrant acidity driving the lengthy finish. A very clean, balanced wine.
90 Adegas Valmiñor, 2003 Blend
Dávila, Rias Baixas
Aromas of ripe honeydew melon. Spritzy palate-feel with a combination of drying mineral flavors and the sweetness of tropical fruit. Balanced, lengthy close.
Barrel Fermented
85 Martin Codax, 2002 Albariño
Organistrum Barrica, Rias Baixas
Grassy nose with a note of clove. Good weight with defined grapefruit flavors. Dusty, minerally finish.
94 Palacio de Fefiñanes, 2002 "1583" Albariño
Fefiñanes Barrica, Rias Baixas
Scents of toasted oak, clove and a hint of mintiness. Juicy and ripe with butternut, honey and butterscotch flavors. Very round and supple with pecan-like flavors in the close. New World style.
90 Valdamor, 2001 Albariño
Valdamor Barrica, Rias Baixas
New wood aromas of cedar and oak with a hint of brown spice. Pineapple and caramel flavors with a tempered edge of acidity. A tasty, barrel-fermented Albariño with a round, supple finish.
West Coast Case
The following selection of Oregon Pinot Gris was reviewed in San Francisco by Contributing Editor Steve Pitcher. The wines were tasted blind except where noted. This "West Coast Case" represents the sixth in a continuing series of similar reports. 88 A to Z, 2003 Pinot Gris
Oregon
Pleasant aromas of ripe pear, lime zest, pink grapefruit and white flowers. Round and plush on the palate, balanced by crisp acidity, this varietally unctuous Gris offers similar flavors suggested by the nose, joined by honeydew melon and white peach. Great value. $12
90 Adelsheim, 2003 Pinot Gris
Oregon
Restrained aromas of pear nectar, jasmine, mineral and a subtle note of almond open with airing. Much bigger on the palate than the aromas suggest, the wine is round and luscious with deep, concentrated flavors of baked pear, ripe Fuji apple, mineral, allspice and a touch of white pepper. $17
87 Belle Pente, 2002 Pinot Gris
Reserve, Willamette Valley
Intriguing wheat-like note plus subtle white fruit - quince and pear - aromas. Rich and juicy with a plush mouth-feel, delivering persistent flavors of apple, pear and white melon buoyed by cleansing acidity. $18
88 Carabella, 2003 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley
Forward, fragrant, clean, fruity scents of Comice pear, green apple and a hint of dried apricot. Rich and viscous with deep flavors of pear, apple and Crenshaw melon. Crisp acidity balances the creamy mouth-feel. $15
90 Chehalem, 2003 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley
Bright, fruity aromas of ripe pear and orange blossom are enhanced by a subtle note of ginger spice. Smooth and luscious with perky acidity, offering copious flavors of apple, white peach and succulent pear. Finishes with hints of white pepper and minerals. $16
92 Chehalem, 2002 Pinot Gris
Reserve, Willamette Valley
Restrained, slow-to-open nose of lemon curd, crème brûlée and poached pear. A polished, elegant Pinot Gris, this reserve offers a broad, lush palate with bright flavors that echo the nose, enlivened by brisk acidity. A rich wine without barrel, lees or malo intrusions that will age nicely over the next two to three years. $19
90 Elk Cove, 2003 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley
Fresh, fruity aromas of Golden Delicious apple and honeydew melon are replicated on the palate of this unctuous, well-crafted Gris. Crisp acidity balances the lightly creamy texture. A lovely, balanced, complex wine for sipping or pairing with food. $15
91 King Estate, 2003 Domaine Pinot Gris
Oregon
Exciting aromas of rich tropical fruit accented by apricot, honeysuckle and nutmeg. Fleshy, with deep, concentrated, complex flavors of tropical fruit, lime zest and a hint of ripe fig, finishing with notes of tangerine and baked pineapple. A boldly flavored Gris that drinks dry while the nose suggests sweetness, much like a Viognier. $25
91 Lemelson, 2003 Pinot Gris
Tikka's Run, Willamette Valley
Forward, very fragrant aromas of passion fruit, Meyer lemon and pear lead to similar flavors that are wonderfully concentrated and deep. Picks up some grapefruit and allspice and finishes with lingering spice and pear flavors. The smooth, velvety texture was obtained without malo and is buoyed by brisk acidity. $18
88 Maysara, 2002 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley
Pleasant aromas of quince and pear are enlivened by a subtle note of wheat. Juicy and full bodied with crisp acidity, this well-structured Gris offers a velvety texture and complex, fruity flavors of ripe pear, quince and lemon zest, finishing with a touch of marzipan. $15
90 Panther Creek, 2003 Pinot Gris
Melrose Vineyard, Oregon
Fragrant, rather perfumed nose of ripe pear, straw, honeysuckle, green apple and white peach. Thick and rich with refreshing acidity, the wine offers layers of pear, peach and lemon flavors that are complex and persistent. $15
90 Sokol Blosser, 2002 Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley
Appealing nose of lemon zest, green apple and minerals. Powerful and full bodied, offering mineral-tinged apple-pear-melon fruit enhanced by a warm earthiness, this velvet textured Gris is balanced by vibrant acidity and finishes with a ginger spice flourish. $18
- Steve Pitcher
About the BuyLine Panel: More than 100 wines are reviewed in every issue of The Wine News. All wines are tasted double-blind and each entry is evaluated and scored based upon individual merit. Wines that score above 70 points are recommended in the BuyLine. Tasting and interpreting wine is a purely subjective exercise; all scores and accompanying tasting notes represent the collective opinions of our panel.
Wine Samples: Send samples for review with retail price affixed to:
The Wine News BuyLine Tasting Panel
1501 Venera Avenue, Suite 320
Coral Gables, FL 33146
Telephone: 305.740.7170
The Panel: Maurice Adams, specialty food and wine merchant; Lyn Farmer, senior staff columnist; Abraham Horowitz, BuyLine panelist; Tom E. Smith, publisher; John Stroker, BuyLine panelist; Fred Tasker, Miami Herald wine critic; Todd M. Wernstrom, executive editor.
Scoring: Tasting notes reflect the panel's collective impressions; scores are averaged and represent the panel's mean. Wines possessing certain criteria will be singled out for special recognition:
Taster's Choice: Wines which display outstanding quality, character and potential.
Best Value Wines of exceptional quality which sell at a moderate price.
Stemware: Riedel Ouverture tasting glasses.
Pricing: Prices vary from state to state. Retail prices listed are approximate.
