In the striking Gibbston Valley in Central Otago, Chard Farm’s John Wallace grows mainly pinot noir on his 70 acres because he says the region is the best place in New Zealand to cultivate the delicate grape; he lists dry weather, longer hang time and schist-based, loamy soils as the reasons why
Kiwis cultivate Prototype Pinots
By Gerald D. BoydThe friendly disagreement is not unlike the ongoing search in California for the best pinot noir pockets - Carneros? Russian River? Santa Barbara? Some Kiwi traditionalists stand firm on Martinborough, a smallish region at the southern end of the North Island, while others consider Marlborough and Nelson, neighbors at the northern end of the South Island, to be prime pinot country. The small, emerging region of Waipara, located just north of Christchurch, also has its supporters. But a growing number of pinot advocates claim that the sprawling region of Central Otago, at the southern end of the South Island, comes closest to idyllic for New Zealand pinot noir.
As of June 2004, pinot noir accounted for 8,004 acres in New Zealand, with merlot, pinot's closest red rival, totaling less than half (3,674) that figure. Sauvignon blanc, topping out at more than 14,500 acres in 2004, is certainly the island nation's most recognizable variety, but the country's wine future is no less focused on pinot noir. Because it is now fairly well established in all of the places it's likely to ever be planted - New Zealand, after all, is not a large country with vast tracks of arable, untapped land - it's a good time to take stock of each region.
Just as Napa Valley continues to bask in much of the California limelight, the dominance of Marlborough as a New Zealand wine power is undeniable. It is the country's largest, best known and most widely planted wine region, with more than 21,100 acres of wine grapes planted since the first vines took root in 1973. Its Pinots are substantial and structured with distinct pinot-berry flavors and length. Those that show this characteristic structure and length of flavor include Marlborough bottlings from Brancott, Churton, Highfield, Huia and Hunters.
Marlborough pinot noir acreage now stands at about 3,593 with growth estimates of at least 700 more acres under vine by 2006. Although it lags far behind sauvignon blanc's 12,525 acres, Burgundy's fragile red grape has established a firm foothold here.
Centered around the Wairau and Awatere river valleys, the scenic Marlborough region lies in the upper northeastern part of the South Island and is framed by the cities of Blenheim, Picton and Nelson (also a wine region). The distinctive, pungent fruit flavors and dense structure that mark Marlborough Pinots can be attributed in large part to the region's steady marine influence, a plenitude of warm days and cool nights, and the alluvial loam top soils laid over gravelly sub soils in the valleys. Yet, despite its proximity to the sea and the rivers, moisture is precisely what the region lacks.
"There's not much groundwater in this area, so the Marlborough Council is bringing irrigation water from the Wairau River," says Cloudy Bay winemaker Kevin Judd. He claims that the search for suitable vineyards is forcing growers to move into side valleys such as the Awatere. Even without a continental land mass, according to Judd, the region's success with pinot noir can be attributed to ample sunshine hours, moderate temperatures, low rainfall and cool nights during the growing season, allowing for more hang time. "The biggest challenge we have in Marlborough is maintaining consistency of style because of vintage variations and battling early botrytis, like we had in 2001 and 2004; it's enemy number one!"
Judd and his colleagues believe that Marlborough Pinot Noir has the potential to be the red wine equivalent of Sauvignon Blanc here. "We grow very good pinot noir in Marlborough, even though the buzz for pinot is Central Otago. For me, though, if you're looking for consistency in growing pinot noir, I'd pick Nelson and Waipara." Side by side, the Cloudy Bay 2002 and 2003 Marlborough Pinots possess the deep structure and ripe berry flavors for which the region is known; the latter also offers bacon and black cherry notes. "It's the best Pinot we've made," Judd asserts.
Brent Marris, winemaker at Wither Hills, has 800 acres under vine in the Brancott and southern Wairau valleys. "There's more pungency and fruit weight in the grapes of the Wairau Valley, especially for pinot noir and sauvignon blanc," Marris notes, adding that the stony silt and clay Brancott soils are ideal for growing good pinot, though competing with the hungry birds can be problematic. "But we've found a deterrent," he says with a wide smile. "You can't beat a good motorbike and a shotgun."
Wither Hills was founded by the Marris family in 1994, but until 1998 they were mostly contract growers. Today, with a new, multipurpose winery and a visitor center that is the talk of Marlborough, Wither Hills produces 160,000 cases of mostly Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Taking a sip of his 2003 Pinot, Marris cites the bright, juicy berry flavors, smiles and says, "It has 'pinot-osity'!"
As alluded to by Judd, Central Otago - locals simply call it Central - the breathtakingly scenic region at the southern end of the South Island, is fast gaining a reputation in New Zealand as Pinot's promised land. From the rugged wonder of isolated Milford Sound, where waterfalls surge out of crevices in the sheer walls of the fiord, to the compact comfort of Queenstown, a small resort destination snuggled in the embrace of the snow-capped Remarkables and the western Richardson Range and Fiordland National Park, anything you may have heard or read about the sheer jaw-dropping beauty of the area is not an exaggeration.
The five main vineyard subregions of Central Otago, with a total of more than 1,400 acres of pinot noir - Gibbstown, Cromwell, Bannockburn, Wanaka, Alexandra - are easy day trips over mountains and through deep gorges from Queenstown. The Cromwell basin, including Bannockburn and Bendigo, accounts for 70 percent of the plantings; Gibbstown Valley, the closest subregion to Queenstown, has 20 percent of the plantings, with the remainder divided between Wanaka in the north and Alexandra in the south. Pinot noir accounts for 70 percent of the plantings in Central Otago, followed by pinot gris, chardonnay and riesling.
Heading east out of Queenstown past Lake Hayes and Arrowtown, and snaking along the Kawarau Gorge Road River, you pass an arresting sight: High above the rushing waters that plunge through the gorge is the Kawarau Bridge, where the world's first bungee jumping station was constructed. Across the road resting against the mountains in a decidedly more tranquil setting is Chard Farm, a small estate in the Gibbston Valley, named after the Chards, an English family who settled the area in the 1800s.
Winemaker John Wallace farms 70 acres of vines, mainly pinot noir. A quiet, thoughtful man, Wallace believes unequivocally that Central is the best place in New Zealand for growing pinot noir. "We have very settled, dry weather here during growing season giving us longer hang time, and because our vineyards are mostly on slopes, there is little threat of frost, which is often a problem in flatter areas like Waipara." Reflecting for a moment, he points to the schist-based loamy soils in his vineyards and adds, "And I don't think the limestone soils in Waipara are essential to making good Pinot Noir."
As you travel deeper into the narrow river valley, east toward Cromwell, shallow vineyards, including those of former Napa Valley winemaker Gary Andrus and Kiwi actor Sam Neill, are in full view. Just over a slight rise in the road appears the graceful, wing-like roof of Peregrine Wines gleaming in the sun of a late Southern Hemisphere winter day, a striking sight against the backdrop of snow-capped mountains. Peregrine co-owner and vineyard manager Greg Hay says, "I like the purity of fruit here and besides, if you were in Waipara, you wouldn't have all this beautiful scenery."
Once through the Kawarau Gorge, the landscape shifts to a gentle roll with well-defined ravines. Between the small towns of Cromwell and Bannockburn is a cluster of nine wineries, the largest concentration in Central Otago. "Bannockburn is the driest part of New Zealand," says Blair Walter, winemaker at Felton Road, producer of berry-rich, inviting wines. Purchased in 1991, Felton Road was the first major vineyard and winery in the Cromwell basin, and today there are 36 acres of vines skirting the winery, much of it pinot noir, with smaller plantings of chardonnay and riesling.
A few miles away, in the shadow of the Carrick Mountain Range - topped by Mt. Difficulty - is Carrick. The vineyard was planted in 1994 (the same year that a new winery was built). A restaurant was added in 2002. Carrick specializes in fruit-forward Pinot Noir and delightfully spicy Pinot Gris.
Perhaps the most tourist-friendly place to use as a base camp is Wellington, arguably New Zealand's most enjoyable and cosmopolitan city. To the northeast of the city is the Wairarapa wine region, of which Martinborough - a town and wine district - is particularly noted for Pinot Noir. The Martinborough Terraces, a subregion first planted in the mid-1980s, has taken on an identity separate from Wairarapa. The latest-designated area in the region is Te Muna, separated from the Terraces by the Huangarua River. Although Martinborough's 887 acres of pinot are small compared to the amounts found in Marlborough and Central Otago, the quality and character may be the best in country. (In NZ there is a Wairarapa and a Waipara, both wine regions, not to mention Waikato and Waiheke.)
Many critics, including this writer, believe that it is Martinborough that delivers shadings of Burgundian character in New Zealand Pinot Noir. When Steve Smith, winemaker and general manager - and Master of Wine - of Craggy Range in Hawkes Bay, wanted to add a Pinot to Craggy's lineup, he planted the 200-acre Te Muna Vineyard in Martinborough (there is some sauvignon blanc here as well). Even with the wind off the hills lowering vine vigor, Smith opted for the Martinborough site because of the nutrient-rich soils. Why not Marlborough? "I like the more reserved texture and flavors of Martinborough Pinots, but with Marlborough it's all upfront," he explains.
With all the excitement about Central Otago and the reputation of Marlborough, Pinot fans may have trouble placing Martinborough among New Zealand's prime red wine districts. But the rich, plummy Martinborough Pinots from producers such as Dry River Wines, Ata Rangi, Margrain Vineyard, Hidden Valley, Voss Estate, Te Kairanga, Palliser Estate Wines and Alana Estate make the region's promise abundantly clear.
Though even less well known than Martinborough, tiny Waipara, with its 346 acres of pinot noir plantings, is one of the fastest growing and most highly regarded wine areas in New Zealand. Little more than an hour's drive north of Christchurch, Waipara is distinct from the larger Canterbury district, which is situated mostly on the plains around the city. The slopes of Waipara, especially those behind Mountford winery, are known for their limestone content - the component, it is claimed, that produces the best Burgundian-style Pinot Noir. Mountford is a small estate, specializing in high-end Pinot crafted by an eclectic staff that includes owner Michael Eaton and his wife, Buffy, winemaker C.P. Lin, a young, blind native of Taiwan, and Gerald Atkinson, a viticulturist with a degree in philosophy. "We'd like to head into that premier/grand cru Burgundy style, but not copy it," Eaton notes.
Waipara's most noted wine estate, Pegasus Bay, is set back about five miles off the main highway in a notch protected from the easterlies blowing off the ocean ten miles away and by the main dividing range to the west. It owns 85 acres of vineyards and produces a line of wines that clearly represent the Waipara area. The winery complex itself includes an excellent restaurant and lovely gardens.
In the early 1970s, Ivan Donaldson, a home winemaker in Christchurch, began a search for the best place outside the city to plant grapes. "My father looked at about 100 different properties before he found this site," explains youngest son Edward, a trained chef who currently handles the marketing of Pegasus Bay wines. Eldest son Matthew and his wife, Lynnette Hudson, are the winemakers, while Ivan concentrates on the vineyards and his wife, Christine, manages the business. Ivan planted his first vines in 1985 and bottled his first wines from the 1991 vintage. The Pinot became an instant hit. What distinguishes Pegasus Bay Pinot, and by extension, the Waipara style, is firm structure and body with ripe berry flavors and a subtle gamy note. In addition to the estate Pinot Noir, there is also the Pegasus Bay Prima Donna Reserve Pinot Noir, one of four high-end wines that reflects the Donaldson's love of opera. Other Waipara Pinot Noirs of note include those from Daniel Schuster, Alan McCorkindale and Canterbury House.
New Zealand Pinot Noir, while not exactly a new player on the world wine stage, is developing the prerequisite character and refinement necessary to
be taken seriously by even the most ardent lover of red Burgundy. The Kiwis pioneered cool-climate grape growing in the Southern Hemisphere, so it follows that they will excel with this delicate and demanding grape.
Contributing editor Gerald D. Boyd is a Sonoma County-based wine and spirits writer.
Tasting Bar
The wines that follow were tasted in New Zealand at the wineries; they were not tasted blind. The accompanying "word scores" are based on the BuyLine rating system.
Ata Rangi, 2002 Pinot Noir, Martinborough - $45: Forward berry nose with boiled black tea and spice tones; rich texture, black cherry flavors; lengthy finish. Outstanding
Brancott Vineyards, 2003 Pinot Noir, Marlborough - $11: Slightly muted nose of black cherry, plum and spice; nicely structured with fresh berry flavors; good length. Very Good
Brancott Vineyards, 2002 Pinot Noir Reserve, Marlborough - $18: Bright dark fruit aromas with toasted oak and sweet spice back notes; richly textured, complex, smooth and silky cherry-berry flavors; good length. Outstanding
Carrick, 2002 Pinot Noir, Central Otago - $38: Deep boiled tea nose with ginger notes; lush entry; layered berry-plum flavors; dry with good length. Very Good
Chard Farm, 2002 The Tiger Pinot Noir, Central Otago - $50: Forward black cherry aromas with a boiled beet back note; textured berry flavors and a mineral accent. Outstanding
Cloudy Bay, 2003 Pinot Noir, Marlborough - $25: Forward ripe cherry nose with smoked bacon and black tea notes and nicely integrated spicy oak; black cherry flavors with a lasting finish. Outstanding
Craggy Range, 2003 Pinot Noir, Te Muna Vineyard, Martinborough - $35: Deep black cherry nose; richly textured bright berry flavors; very good structure and length. Outstanding
Felton Road, 2002 Pinot Noir, Central Otago - $38: Refined spice and cherry nose; richly textured, fleshy flavors of dark fruits and cedar notes; long, balanced finish. Outstanding
Felton Road, 2002 Pinot Noir, Block 3, Central Otago - $53: Ripe blackberry and cedar nose with mineral notes; lovely lush berry flavors; long, lingering finish. Superb
Highfield, 2002 Pinot Noir, Marlborough - $27: Toasted oak and ripe cherry nose; bright berry flavors with boiled tea and spice notes; good texture and length. Very Good
Kumeu River, 2003 Pinot Noir, Kumeu - $30: Forward ripe cherry-berry nose with elegant spicy oak notes; rich texture with ripe cherry and spice flavors and a subtle oak note. Outstanding
Mountford, 2002 Pinot Noir, Hawkes Bay - $45: Deep nose of boiled beets and spice; layered cedar and cherry-berry flavors; good structure. Outstanding
Mt. Difficulty, 2003 Pinot Noir, Central Otago - $32: Forward scents of smoked bacon and black cherry; deep-set berry flavors with spice accents; good length. Superb
Nobilo Wines, 2003 Pinot Noir, Marlborough - $20: Shy cherry-berry nose; medium palate with bright strawberry flavors, good tannins, hint of spice; medium length. Very Good
Peregrine, 2003 Pinot Noir, Central Otago - $35: Delicate ripe cherry-berry nose with a spicy note; layered flavors of berry and spicy oak.
Very Good
Pegasus Bay, 2002 Pinot Noir, Waipara - $45: Aromatic berry and spice nose; richly textured flavors of ripe berry and cedar; long, complex finish. Outstanding
Pegasus Bay, 2001 Prima Donna Pinot Noir, Waipara - $75: Elegant nose of spicy oak and ripe berry; mouth-filling, complex berry flavors; excellent balance and length. Superb
Schubert, 2003 Pinot Noir, Wairarapa - $50: Ripe blackberry aromas; richly textured cherry-berry flavors and a spicy note; long, complex finish. Outstanding
Vidal, 2002 Stop Bank Pinot Noir, Hawkes Bay - $35: Richly scented nose of berry and spicy oak; smooth, silky flavors of cherry-berry with spice accents. Outstanding
Wither Hills, 2003 Pinot Noir, Marlborough - $34: Aromas of ripe black cherry and smoky-spicy oak; juicy berry flavors; excellent balance and finish. Superb - GDB
