Wine Reviews from Wine News
tasters' choice selections
95 Sequoia Grove, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Rutherford Reserve, Napa Valley
Dense black-garnet hue. Lush, polished aromas of sweet blackberry, milk chocolate, leather and vanilla scream "California," but are not overdone. Luscious flavors of blackberry, cherry, graphite, cedar and tea. Long finish has just the right degree of sweetness. $55 / 3,556 cases
94 Duckhorn, 2003 Merlot
Three Palms Vineyard, Napa Valley
Shimmering purple hue. Admirably reserved and subtly integrated aromas of blueberry, blackberry, graphite and violets. Silky-smooth flavors of cherry, citrus peel, tobacco and minerals are deep and sweet. Long, layered, fruit-dominant close. $80 / 2,956 cases
94 Frazier Winery, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Intense ruby-purple hue. Complex, though somewhat reserved aromas of blueberry, mixed berries, minerals, bittersweet chocolate and iron. Concentrated, inky flavors of blackberry, mocha, minerals and dried tobacco are dense yet lithe. Creamy finish shows lively citrus notes. $55 / 1,730 cases
best value selections
90 Kenwood, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Sonoma County
White-gold hue. Classic Sauvignon aromas of melon, lime and capsicum. Balanced, but not overly exuberant flavors of honeydew and minerals are framed by appetite-whetting acidity. Clean, thirst-quenching close. $13 / 144,000 cases
88 Concannon Vineyard, 2004 Chardonnay
Selected Vineyards, Central Coast
Medium yellow hue. Attractive, upfront bouquet of pear, banana peel, clove and a hint of vanilla. Crisp apple flavors with a steely edge of lively acidity that lead to a dry, mineral- and citrus-laced finish. $10 / 12,000 cases
87 Crane Lake, 2004 Shiraz
California
Garnet hue. Warm, earthy aromas of red fruit and cigar smoke. Creamy flavors of raspberry, rhubarb and dust belie the wine's minimal cost. Seamless close ably combines fruit and earth notes. $5 / 20,000 cases
California
Chardonnay
86 Alderbrook, 2004 Chardonnay
Russian River Valley
Shy wet stone, clove and toasted oak aromas. Crisp lemon peel flavors with a distinct minerality that punctuates the finish. $18
86 Amici, 2004 Chardonnay
Napa Valley
Sweet scents of peach, cream, honey and grilled pineapple. Crisp citrus flavors laced with a drying mineral nuance. A youthful bite in the close. $30
88 Bernardus, 2004 Chardonnay
Monterey County
A slow-opening bouquet emits apricot, oak and sliced apple aromas. Tangy pineapple flavors with notes of new oak and clove. Youthful, compact finish displays apple and minerals. $20
90 Buena Vista, 2004 Chardonnay
Carneros
Ripe pineapple, honey and nutmeg aromas. Forward nectarine, pineapple and peach flavors. Great length in the lush, honeyed, fruit-filled close. $19
88 Charles Creek Vineyard, 2004 Chardonnay
La Sorpresa, Carneros, Sonoma County
Rich aromas of papaya, kiwi, banana and oak. Sweet-tart flavors of pear, pineapple and lemon have a bubblegum quality to them. Zingy finish. $30
89 Charles Creek Vineyard, 2004 Chardonnay
Las Abuelas, Carneros, Napa County
Pleasingly restrained aromas of citrus blossom, clove, honey and vanilla. Bold flavors of lime, honeydew melon and ample wood couldn't be more different from the nose. Soft close. $40
90 Chateau St. Jean, 2003 Chardonnay
Belle Terre Vineyard, Alexander Valley
Ripe aromas of toasted oak, peach, banana and a note of flint. Fresh apple and peach with a nervy edge of fresh acidity. Good length with balanced sweetness combined with a lingering toasted oak nuance. $22
87 Clos du Val, 2004 Chardonnay
Carneros-Napa Valley
Bouquet of toasted oak, green bananas and clove. Tart flavors of lime, mineral and grapefruit. Very crisp, acidic finish. $22
87 Clos LaChance, 2004 Chardonnay
Santa Cruz Mountains
Shy, slow-opening bouquet of citrus, honey and brown spices. Easy drinking, juicy and round, emitting pineapple, vanilla and peach flavors. Good length; fresh and clean. $18
87 Clos Pegase, 2003 Chardonnay
Mitsuko's Vineyard, Carneros-Napa Valley
Pungent, oily aromas of baked apple and oak char. Viscous flavors of lime and peach pit are surprisingly ungenerous. Dries out a bit in the finish. $36
90 Cuvaison, 2004 Chardonnay
Carneros-Napa Valley
An attractive bouquet of pineapple, lemon peel and toasted oak. Ripe flavors of mango, peach and apricot. Good length with butterscotch and vanilla flavors capping the close. $24
92 Cuvaison, 2004 Chardonnay
Estate Selection, Carneros-Napa Valley
Buttery lemon drop aromas with a whiff of toasted oak. Thick and ripe with flavors of pineapple, peach and dark honey. Excellent length and structure with a defined front-to-back richness. $36
91 DeLoach, 2004 O.F.S. Chardonnay
Russian River Valley
Buttery aromas with notes of nutmeg and peanut brittle. Round, supple fruit with nectar-like flavors of peach and apple. This is a well-structured Chard with a lively zing of clove in the finish. $30
91 Fisher Vineyards, 2004 Chardonnay
Mt. Estate Vineyard, Sonoma County
Dark honey and banana aromas. Layers of tropical fruit flavors showcasing grilled pineapple, papaya, peach and honey. This is an extremely ripe Chardonnay with plenty of heft. $56
86 Forest Glen, 2004 Chardonnay
California
Nicely toasted bouquet with a fresh lemon drop note. Accessible peach and pear flavors. A ripe, well-priced, ready-to-drink Chard. $10
90 Franciscan Oakville, 2004 Cuvée Sauvage
Wild Yeast, Carneros-Napa Valley
Initial oakiness settles into ripe aromas of pineapple, peach, honey and char. Silky, well-oaked flavors of citrus, apricot, paraffin and honey are surprisingly dry. Long close tarts up at the end. $33
88 Gallo Family Vineyards, 2004 Chardonnay
Reserve, Sonoma County
Fresh peach, apple and toasted oak aromas. Supple texture with classic tropical flavors of pineapple, mango and banana. Fruit driven and ready to drink. $13
90 Gary Farrell, 2004 Chardonnay
Russian River Selection, Russian River Vly
Upfront aromas of vanilla, caramel and butterscotch. Tasty apple and peach flavors with a nervy vein of fresh acidity. Youthful, tart finish with a lingering toasted oak nuance. $32
93 Gary Farrell, 2004 Chardonnay
Cresta Ridge Vnyd, Russian River Valley
A touch shy, opening to fresh citrus peel, apple and oak aromas. Rather supple and inviting with flavors of ripe pear, peach and vanilla. Loads of nectar-like fruit and a perfect amount of toasted oak mark the close. $38
93 Grgich Hills, 2003 Chardonnay
Carneros-Napa Valley
A bouquet of apricot, peach nectar and a note of toast. This is a solid, well-made Chard with a perfect mix of toasted oak, peach, Fuji apple and mineral flavors. Lengthy, well-structured finish with plenty of finesse as well as staying power. $75
90 Hollywood & Vine, 2005 Chardonnay
2480, Napa Valley
Ripe pear aromas with whiffs of clove and spearmint. Round and accessible with stewed apple and butterscotch flavors and a recurring spiciness. Lots to offer here; however, it's delivered in a rather sweet package. $50
89 J. Lohr, 2004 Chardonnay
Arroyo Vista Vineyard, Arroyo Seco
Buttery aromas of lemon curd, pineapple, cinnamon and honey. Lightly fruity in the mouth with flavors of mango, toasted oak and vanilla. Butterscotch appears in the finish. $25
92 Kunde Estate Winery, 2003 Chardonnay
Reserve, Sonoma Valley
Appealing pineapple, caramel, honey and brown spice highlight the bouquet. Supple apple butter flavors laced with peach and pineapple fruit. Lengthy, fruit-filled close. $35
88 Marimar Estate, 2003 Chardonnay
Don Miguel Vnyd, Russian River Valley
Pretty aromas of peach, bee pollen, caramel, butter and nuts. Flavors of orange peel, lime and hazelnut are less expressive than the nose. Very tart finish. $40
88 Markham Vineyards, 2004 Chardonnay
Barrel Fermented, Napa Valley
Bouquet of charred oak, pecan, apple and pineapple. Toasted oak is meshed nicely with ripe peach and pineapple fruit flavors that close on a creamy, buttery note. $18
90 Nickel & Nickel, 2004 Chardonnay
Searby Vineyard, Russian River Valley
Sweetly perfumed scents of apricot, mango, honeysuckle and vanilla. Fruit-driven sweetness frames flavors of peach and honey with a balancing note of lime peel. Refreshingly lean finish. $40
92 Nickel & Nickel, 2004 Chardonnay
Truchard Vineyard, Carneros-Napa Valley
Focused aromas of apricot, honey and minerals maintain their freshness. Rather tight, though expressive flavors of stone fruit, lemon and hazelnut. Long close eventually sweetens up. $40
88 Oakville Ranch, 2004 Chardonnay
Napa Valley
Shy clove, peach, oak and celery aromas. Rather ripe flavors of nectarine and peach; however, finishes on a dry, crisp, clean note. $35
92 Pellegrini, 2004 Chardonnay
Olivet Lane Vnyd, Russian River Valley
Heady glazed ham aromas with pineapple, nutmeg and charred oak. Honeyed flavors of pineapple and peach with a supple, nectar-like texture. The close is round, full and somewhat sweet; however, a mineral nuance coupled with toasted oak tempers that sweetness. $20
93 Rochioli, 2004 Chardonnay
Russian River Valley
Uplifting toasted oak aromas with peach and glazed ham scents. Layers of pear, honey and stewed apple flavors. Lasting nectar-like notes in the finish with the perfect use of oak, front-to-back. $41
86 Rutherford Hill, 2004 Chardonnay
Napa Valley
Banana, toasted oak and lemon zest aromas. Dry and flinty with sliced apple and white peach flavors. Youthful, tart close. $18
88 St. Francis, 2004 Chardonnay
Sonoma County
New oak aromas with notes of vanilla and cinnamon. Clean peach and lemon drop flavors imbued with vibrant acidity. Fruit and oak meld in the finish. $12
86 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 2004 Chardonnay
Arcadia Vineyard, Napa Valley
Delicate aromas of lime, honey and white flowers. Minerally, very pronounced lemon-lime flavors. Lemony close. $45
87 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 2004 Chardonnay
Napa Valley
Highly perfumed aromas of citrus, pineapple, mint and minerals. Lean flavors of sliced green apple, peach, clove and wet stone. Citrusy finish. $32
90 Wattle Creek, 2004 Chardonnay
Mendocino
Shy aromas of peach and oak. Silky mouth-feel with white peach and toasted oak flavors. Lingering close with smoky toasted oak, brown spice and grilled pineapple notes. $26
90 William Hill Estate, 2004 Chardonnay
Reserve, Napa Valley
Upfont aromas of papaya and sliced pineapple. Creamy texture with layers of tropical fruit and honey flavors. Tasty, lengthy finish; drinking nicely right now. $36
90 William Hill Estate, 2004 Chardonnay
Napa Valley
Buttery, toasted oak aromas with notes of pecan and campfire. Unctuous flavors of peach and pear nectar with caramel and cinnamon in the lingering close. $26
91 ZD, 2003 Chardonnay
Reserve, Napa Valley
Exotic aromas of nutmeg, cinnamon and peach. Apple and nectarine flavors with a secondary oakiness. Lively, tangy finish with a mix of honey, orange peel and a lingering charred nuance. $55
85 Clos LaChance, 2005 Chardonnay
Hummingbird Series, Monterey County
$15
85 Le Bon Vin de la Napa Valley, 2004 Chard
Napa Valley
$14
85 Lincourt, 2004 Chardonnay
Santa Barbara County
$18
85 Meridian, 2005 Chardonnay
Santa Barbara County
$10
84 Morgan, 2005 Chardonnay
Metallico, Monterey
$20
84 Pellegrini, 2005 Chardonnay
Unoaked, Russian River Valley
$16
Sauvignon Blanc
86 Beckmen Vineyards, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Purisima Mt. Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley
Crisply varietal scents of citrus, cut grass and minerals. Tart flavors of lime peel and nuts. Astringent finish. $20
86 Chateau St. Jean, 2004 Fumé Blanc
La Petite Etoile Vnyd, Russian River Valley
Oak dominates aromas of apple and grapefruit. Smoky, Chard-like flavors of melon, peach and oak. Sweetens up in the close. $20
88 Clos LaChance, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Central Coast
Intense aromas of lemon-lime, celery and clove. Tart, almost fizzy flavors of lime, peach and gravel. Dry finish features ample citrus notes. $16
90 DeLoach, 2004 O.F.S. Sauvignon Blanc
Russian River Valley
Fragrant, classic aromas of lime, chalk and fresh herbs. Quite tart flavors of lime, white grapefruit and cut grass show how enjoyable Sauvignon Blanc can be when not made in a shrill, exaggerated style. Lemon in the cleansing close. $20
87 Dutton Estate, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Dutton Ranch-Cohen Vnyd, Russian River Vly
Deep, pungent aromas of gooseberry, celery and flowers. Soft flavors of pineapple, honey and chopped herbs. Fat finish. $35
89 Firestone Vineyard, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Santa Ynez Valley
Subtle and fragrant scents of green apple and white flowers. Pear and wet stone flavors have good body and none of this variety's sometimes-shrillness. Green apple reappears in the close. $13
90 Francis Coppola, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Yellow Label, Diamond Collection, California
Vibrant aromas of honeydew melon, lime and straw. An excellent balance of spicy citrus and ripe apple flavors. Lime quickens the finish. $15
88 Gary Farrell, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Redwood Ranch, Sonoma County
Fresh aromas of red apple and pear. Sweet-tart flavors of lemon and chalk have admirable body and balance. Quite lemony in the close. $25
89 Grgich Hills, 2005 Fumé Blanc
Napa Valley
Ripe aromas of apple, peach and oak char are totally under control. Lithe, lively flavors of yellow peach and red apple with herbal notes. Sweetens up a bit in the finish. $25
87 Rochioli, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Russian River Valley
Shy aromas of lime blossom and flint with garden notes. Balanced flavors of melon, citrus and pencil. Tarts up in the close. $30
89 Whitehall Lane, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Napa Valley
Inviting aromas of gooseberry, paraffin and fresh herbs. Balanced flavors of pear and citrus conclude on a bare honey note. Lingering finish picks up on the honey. $15
83 Smoking Loon, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
California
$9
Cabernet & Blends
90 Bernardus, 2002 Marinus
Carmel Valley
A bouquet of black cherry, plum and cedar box. Black cherry fruit is round and sweet with a peppery edge. Charred oak and mineral nuances linger in the dry, youthful finish. $45
92 Caymus, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Special Selection, Napa Valley
Somewhat reserved scents of raspberry, cedar and black coffee. Earthy, sweet flavors of cherry, mint, tobacco and coffee; less about fruit than it is structure. Lingering close shows a char nuance. $136
91 Caymus, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Initial gamy scent blows off to reveal herbal aromas of blueberry, dried tobacco and mint. Very creamy flavors of cherry, raspberry, milk chocolate, maple and chalk. Sweetened coffee heightens the finish. $70
92 Chappellet, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Warm, smoky aromas of blueberry, plum and gun powder. Sweet, upfront flavors of blackberry, bramble, bittersweet chocolate and coffee. Chalky close shows a fine crispness. $44
87 Chimney Rock, 2003 Élevege
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley
Earthy and pungent with leather, pencil and mushroom aromas. Dry chocolate and orange peel flavors have a metallic bite. Tart, youthful finish. $75
90 Chimney Rock, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley
Cedary scents of date, coffee and fresh herbs. Smooth, dry flavors of blackberry, cedar and bittersweet chocolate. Creamy close shows ample, though well-meshed fruit. $52
91 Chimney Rock, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley
Quite reserved aromas of dried cherry, smoke and chewing tobacco open with time. Full flavors of date, plum, orange peel and chocolate. Ripe berries highlight the finish. $100
88 Clos du Val, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Oak Vineyard, Stags Leap District
Pungent earth and garden scents place the fruit in the background. Lean, dry flavors of blackberry, espresso and chalk. Wood emerges in the close. $52
88 Clos du Val, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Ripe plum aromas with black earth and a menthol-like accent. Tart cherry-chocolate flavors laced with youthful tannins and crisp acidity. Still somewhat restrained; needs time. $30
89 Cosentino, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Cedary aromas of cranberry, raspberry and dust. Fresh, zingy flavors of cherry, strawberry and redwood with espresso and citrus notes. Sprightly close. $45
91 Cuvaison, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Mount Veeder, Napa Valley
Excellent color; purple to the rim. Ripe cherry and charred oak with a whiff of coconut. Showy black cherry and plum fruit with fine tannins. Lengthy close with tasty cherry and mocha flavors. $40
88 DeLoach, 2003 O.F.S. Cabernet Sauvignon
Russian River Valley
Warm, lively, grapy aromas of mixed berries, cedar and menthol. Balanced flavors of plum, oak spice and lots of earth. Chalky close. $30
88 Dry Creek Vineyard, 2002 Meritage
Napa Valley
Fresh raspberry aromas with hints of mint and resin. Tart and youthful with blueberry and plum fruit with secondary mineral flavors that are laced throughout the finish. $28
90 Duckhorn, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Big, pungent aromas of stewed plum, cherry, pencil, mint and molasses. Ripe, tangy flavors of sweet cherry, coffee, minerals and bittersweet chocolate. Racy close. $60
88 Eberle, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Paso Robles
Deep aromas of fig, date, fruit cake spice, molasses and pencil. Lively flavors of raspberry, citrus, espresso and a shovelful of minerals. Tart finish. $65
91 Fisher Vineyards, 2003 Cameron
Napa Valley
Perfumed bouquet emitting mocha, plum and maraschino cherry. Silky texture with appealing cherry fruit, chocolate and notes of minerals. Lengthy, vibrant close with polished tannins and a lingering sweetness. $50
91 Grace Family, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
High-toned aromas of blueberry, clove, coffee, pencil and dust. Extracted, grapy flavors of blackberry, vanilla, minerals and brown sugar. Long, lively, concentrated finish. $190
88 Grgich Hills, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Deep aromas of chocolate-covered cherry, mocha, tobacco and molasses. Dry, dusty flavors of black fruit and oak don't match the nose. Wood dominates the close. $58
92 Hawkeye Mountain, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley
Deep aromas of cranberry, dried tobacco, tar and pencil shavings. Forthcoming flavors of blackberry, plum, citrus, bittersweet chocolate and earth. Smooth, creamy finish highlighted by ripe fruit. $50
93 Hollywood & Vine Cellars, 2003 Cabernet
2480, Napa Valley
Reserved scents of plum, black earth and tar with a resiny note. More expressive in the mouth with flavors of black cherry, plum, oak char and mocha. Coffee and earth carry the close. $78
93 J. Lohr, 2002 Cuvée PAU
Paso Robles
Intensely ripe aromas of raspberry, cassis and lavender. Layers of smoky black cherry flavors have a defined sweetness that seems to be a hallmark of Lohr's Cuvée series. The ripeness continues in the finish with the addition of spicy oak and mocha. $50
92 Kendall-Jackson, 2001 Stature
Limited Release, Napa Valley
Warm, leathery aromas of black fruit, earth and chocolate pick up with air. Supple flavors of blackberry, pencil and milk chocolate sport peppery tannins. Brown sugar rounds out the close. $95
88 Kunde, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Sonoma Valley
Earthy aromas of cranberry, bramble berry and dusty stone. Vibrant flavors of tart red fruit and citrus with wood notes. Youthful finish is a bit unyielding at present. $60
87 Le Bon Vin de la Napa Valley, 2003 Cabernet
Napa Valley
Forward aromas of date, prune, charcoal and chocolate. Soft black cherry flavors with a note of chalkiness. Dry close. $14
90 M. Cosentino, 2003 Legends
Meritage, Napa Valley
Rich blueberry and coffee bean aromas have a defined mintiness. Lively black cherry fruit with a good lick of clove and fresh acidity. Tannins come to life in the somewhat youthful finish. $80
88 Markham, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Fresh blueberry and plum aromas with a smoky campfire accent. Flavors of plum, mint, cedar and a pungent, sweet tobacco nuance. Minerals and youthful tannins punctuate the close. $30
90 Pine Ridge, 2002 Onyx
Napa Valley
A mineral-laden bouquet emitting flint, graphite and charcoal. Spicy plum and black cherry flavors with a clove note. The well-oaked finish is rustic and roughly hewn with the brambly tannins needing time to resolve. $55
90 Raymond, 2002 Generations Cabernet
Napa Valley
Forward aromas of black cherry, coconut and glove leather. Round cherry and plum fruit with sweet, toasted oak flavors. Fruit, tannins and oak mesh nicely in the lengthy close. $75
92 Rubicon Estate, 2002 Rubicon
Rutherford, Napa Valley
Heady, minty aromas of ripe plum, charcoal and fresh croissant. This is a sumptuous Rubicon with ribbons of plum, blueberry and mineral flavors that reflect the ripe 2002 vintage. Extremely accessible; however, the tannins do firm up in the finish. $110
87 Sebastiani, 2002 Used Automobile Parts
Napa Valley
Candy-sweet aromas with cherry in the forefront, followed by peppermint and licorice. Merlot is the main thrust of this unusual meritage blend with an odd moniker to match. Soft plum, clove and cinnamon flavors. Sweet, lingering close. $50
92 Shafer, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Well-defined aromas of cassis, rose, maple and sawdust. Tangy, fruit-strewn flavors of blackberry, blueberry, tobacco, redwood and cedar. Minerally, peppery finish shows lots of mocha. $55
86 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 2003 Artemis
Napa Valley
Stewed, leathery aromas of blackberry, mint and earth. Rough flavors of cassis and minerals. Somewhat bitter close. $51
88 Sterling Vineyards, 2002 SVR Reserve
Napa Valley
Forward aromas of black cherry, oak and spearmint. Stewed plum flavors with notes of pencil, oak and cedar. The finish sweetens it up. $45
87 Wattle Creek, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley
Stewed aromas of plum and lots of dusty cedar. Peppery flavors of blackberry, minerals and oak pick up significantly in the mouth. Earthy close. $50
89 Whitehall Lane, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Herbal aromas of black fruit, smoke, dust and cedar. Minerally flavors of blackberry, mocha and pencil shavings are precise. Tangy finish covered in tar. $40
92 ZD, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
35th Anniversary, Napa Valley
Four-square aromas of plum, pencil, cedar and tar have a comforting warmth to them. Juicy flavors of raspberry, mocha, oak spice and brown sugar. Long, supple and soft close. $45
Merlot 87 Beringer, 2003 Merlot
Napa Valley
Brambly aromas of black cherry, cola and cedar. Lean, minerally flavors of blackberry and mocha. Finishes a touch hot. $20
88 Chappellet, 2003 Merlot
Napa Valley
Cedary scents of blackberry, sawdust and smoke. Lively flavors of blueberry, tobacco and coffee show favorable balance and weight. Tart fruit resonates in the close. $30
87 Cosentino, 2002 Merlot
Reserve, Napa Valley
Pungent, earthy aromas of stewed plum and new oak. Tart flavors of cranberry, orange and dusty mocha. Cherry and oak highlight the finish. $42
86 Crane Lake, 2004 Merlot
California
Aromas of barnyard and tobacco. Black fruit appears in the mouth with notes of oak but dries out rather quickly. Mocha in the close. $5
93 Duckhorn, 2003 Merlot
Estate Grown, Napa Valley
Woodsy aromas yield somewhat to mulberry, mocha and brown sugar. Smooth, but quite youthful and minerally flavors of blackberry and bittersweet chocolate. Chalky, mouth-filling finish. $85
88 Forest Glen, 2004 Merlot
California
Fresh, expressive aromas of brambly blueberry, smoke and cedar. Flavors of cherry, citrus, mocha and minerals show surprising depth given the price. Persistent, fruit-soaked close. $10
87 Fusée, 2004 Merlot
California
Cedary scents of blackberry, mocha and sweet smoke. Bright flavors of cherry and chocolate that carry through to the finish. $6
91 Hartwell Vineyards, 2003 Merlot
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley
Intense, dusty aromas of black fruit, graphite and cedar. Well-defined flavors of blackberry, pencil, tobacco and redwood are quite dry. Long, polished close. $65
87 Merryvale, 2002 Merlot
Las Amigas Vineyard, Carneros
Warm aromas of raspberry, cedar sap and brown sugar. Supple flavors of strawberry preserves and cinnamon. Wood-strewn finish. $43
87 Napa Ridge, 2003 Merlot
Napa Valley
Aromas of plum, cola nut and earth. Blackberry and vanillin oak flavors dry out a bit quickly. Creamy finish brings the wine up a notch. $12
87 Nickel & Nickel, 2003 Merlot
Suscol Ranch, Napa Valley
Well-integrated mix of spicy plum, chocolate and cedar aromas. Loads of peppery cherry flavors accented by orange and redwood notes. Tart close. $55
86 Red Truck, 2004 Merlot
California
Muted, earthy aromas of cranberry and tobacco. Refreshing flavors of raspberry, cedar and vanilla. Fruity, crowd-pleasing finish. $13
88 Silverado Vineyards, 2003 Merlot
Napa Valley
Reserved aromas of black currant and game sweetened up by brown sugar notes that emerge with air. Balanced flavors of cherry and semisweet chocolate. Black pepper appears in the close. $28
88 St. Francis, 2001 Merlot
Behler Reserve, Sonoma Valley
Wood is in the foreground of cherry and maple aromas. Soft flavors of tart cherry, moist tobacco and well-integrated oak. Lingering, sweet finish. $32
86 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 2003 Merlot
Napa Valley
Resiny aromas of cherry and just-cut lumber. Red fruit and earth flavors are more forthcoming than the nose but not generous. Earthy close. $42
89 Taylor Peak, 2003 Merlot
Bennett Valley
Floral aromas of mixed berries, dried tobacco and chopped mint. Concentrated flavors of blackberry, espresso and minerals have very good balance. A whiff of oak char in the finish. $40
85 Smoking Loon, 2004 Merlot
California
$9
Petite Sirah
90 Concannon, 2004 Petite Sirah
Limited Release, Central Coast
New oak yields to fresh aromas of blueberry, vanilla and maple. Flavors of blueberry syrup, cherry, citrus and brown sugar are even more forward than the nose but not overwhelming in their richness. Creamy close. $14
92 Earthquake, 2004 Petite Sirah
Lodi
Pungent aromas of blackberry, black cherry, cured meat, cigar smoke and new oak. Sweet and treacly, though supple flavors of blackberry compote, smoked meat and brown sugar have the new oak in check. Spicy cedar and cinnamon in the finish. $28
87 Ledson, 2003 Petite Sirah
Contra Costa County
Aromas of fig, damp stone, black pepper and grill pan. Very ripe flavors of blackberry, date, caramel and oak with an orange note. Peppery close. $34
89 Rosenblum Cellars, 2004 Petite Sirah
Pickett Road, Napa Valley
Bold aromas of plum, fig, oak and white chocolate. Velvety flavors of black cherry syrup and cola nut. A spice note reveals itself in the subtle finish. $28
88 Rosenblum Cellars, 2004 Petite Sirah
Heritage Clones, San Francisco Bay
Loads of oak provide the framing for aromas of boysenberry and tobacco. Soft, chewy, sweet flavors of blueberry jam and chocolate. Plush close. $20
90 Two Angels, 2004 Petite Sirah
Shannon Ridge Vineyard, Lake County
Well-integrated aromas of blackberry, mocha and earth show less of this varietal's extreme traits. Spicy, creamy flavors of blackberry, tar and espresso. Vanilla emerges in the round finish. $26
87 Vina Robles, 2003 Petite Sirah
Jardine, Paso Robles
Cedary aromas of black currant and pencil shavings. Inky flavors of black fruit, minerals and dried tobacco. Tooth-coating close. $26
85 Foppiano, 2003 Petite Sirah
Russian River Valley
$23
Pinot Noir
86 Alderbrook, 2004 Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley
Dusty aromas of red berry and rhubarb have an odd plastic note. Lively, peppery flavors of cherry and cranberry lift the wine's profile. Direct finish. $25
90 Alma Rosa, 2004 Pinot Noir
San Luis Obispo
Shy aromas of flowers and tar. Big flavors of blackberry, oak, black pepper and smoked meat are much more forthcoming than suggested by the nose. Lingering close concludes with grill pan notes. $31
91 Alma Rosa, 2004 Pinot Noir
Encantada Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills
Concentrated aromas of cherry, dust, tobacco and minerals. Quite spicy, though well-balanced flavors of cherry, raspberry and mocha. Nervy finish. $47
91 Arista, 2004 Pinot Noir
Harper's Rest, Russian River Valley
Brambly aromas of cherry, citrus peel, cedar and leather. Thick, ripe, juicy flavors of plum, cherry jam and vanilla with pretty floral notes. Long, concentrated, smoky close. $38
90 Arista, 2004 Pinot Noir
Longbow, Russian River Valley
Restrained aromas of cranberry, cherry, coffee and earth. Crisp, amply fruity flavors of strawberry, cherry, cedar box and a grounding dose of espresso. Long, smooth, peppery finish. $38
90 Belle Glos, 2004 Pinot Noir
Clark & Telephone Vnyd, Santa Barbara Cty
Deep aromas of black fruit, dust, pencil and bell pepper. Bold flavors of cherry, plum and cedar box. Long close has a kirsch-like seriousness. $38
90 Belle Glos, 2004 Pinot Noir
Taylor Lane Vineyard, Sonoma County
Earthy scents of red berries and graphite with a tomato leaf note. Very forward flavors ooze mixed berries and nutmeg, and have a Beaujolais-like vivacity. Mocha balances the finish. $50
87 Beringer, 2003 Pinot Noir
Stanly Ranch, Los Carneros, Napa Valley
Gamy aromas of fig, plum and pencil shavings. Dry, spicy and compact flavors of tart cherry and graphite. Smooth close. $30
87 Byron, 2004 Pinot Noir
Santa Maria Valley
Barnyardy, meaty scents mask the red fruit. Spicy flavors of cherry and earth are very soft. Chocolate graces the finish. $25
93 Cuvaison, 2004 Pinot Noir
Estate Selection, Carneros-Napa Valley
Initial bacon fat note fades to pleasingly reserved scents of blackberry and wet stone. Ripe, meaty flavors of cherry, white flowers and seasoned oak show great balance. Vibrant, fruit-filled close. $45
88 DeLoach, 2004 Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley
Muted scents of cedar and earth mask the very shy fruit. Flavors of cherry and semisweet chocolate are much more giving than the nose. Plush finish. $18
87 DeLoach, 2003 O.F.S. Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley
Dusty aromas of rhubarb and cigar tobacco. Flavors of plum, black pepper and cedar show favorable balance and weight. Mocha emerges in the close. $35
90 Domaine Chandon, 2003 Pinot Noir
Ramal Road Reserve, Carneros
Lush aromas of black cherry syrup, melted chocolate, cedar and moist tobacco. Lively flavors of raspy cherry and maple are quite sweet but not cloying. Sweetness retreats a bit in the finish. $45
92 Etude, 2003 Heirloom Pinot Noir
Carneros
Pungent, gamy aromas of plum, shoe polish, herbs and a lightening dash of cinnamon. A pronounced earthiness leads to full flavors of black cherry, tobacco, clove and mint. Tingly, vibrant close thick with black fruit. $80
87 Fess Parker, 2004 Pinot Noir
Ashley's Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills
Plum and menthol aromas. Supple flavors of cherry, date and nutmeg. Extremely sweet finish with cherry, chocolate, clove and brown sugar notes. $50
88 Fess Parker, 2004 Pinot Noir
Bien Nacido Vnyd, Santa Barbara County
Smoky aromas of clove and violets. Spicy licorice and roasted coffee bean flavors. Lively close shows red fruit, chalk, graphite and methylate notes. $50
88 Gallo Family Vineyards, 2004 Pinot Noir
Reserve, Sonoma County
Grapy aromas of plum, tar and boiled green tea. Flavors of strawberry and vanilla are fruit driven and sweet. A cedar note adds to the finish. $15
92 Gary Farrell, 2003 Pinot Noir
Jack Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley
Warm, earthy aromas of raspberry, tobacco and bramble. Forward, concentrated flavors of cherry compote and spicy pepper with well-integrated wood notes. Generous, tooth-coating close. $45
91 Goldeneye, 2003 Pinot Noir
Anderson Valley
Earth-driven scents of dust, forest floor, dried tobacco and tar. Quite smoky flavors of plum, oak char and bittersweet chocolate. Warm finish features a smoked meat note. $52
92 Laetitia, 2004 Pinot Noir
Les Galets, Arroyo Grande Valley
Huge aromas of espresso, iodine, tar and red meat make the fruit currently reluctant. Mouth-filling flavors of cherry, cinnamon and bittersweet chocolate. Plush, though quite focused close. $60
88 Laetitia, 2004 Pinot Noir
La Colline, Arroyo Grande Valley
Brambly aromas of grilled citrus and rhubarb. Sweet flavors of cherry, red berries, vanilla and mocha. Continues to sweeten up in the finish. $60
90 Morgan, 2004 Pinot Noir
Gary's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands
Dusty, pungent aromas of tomato leaf and campfire. Syrupy texture with cranberry, coffee and brown sugar flavors. Good length with the sweetness of cherry juice and a slight chalkiness in the close. $45
90 Pellegrini, 2004 Pinot Noir
Olivet Lane Vineyard, Russian River Valley
Bright cherry, strawberry and licorice aromas. Lightly earthy flavors followed by cherry, mocha and flinty nuances. Resin and clove join tart red fruit notes in the lengthy finish. $24
90 Rochioli, 2004 Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley
Perfumed scents of fresh strawberry, rhubarb, cinnamon and tomato leaf. Mouth-filling flavors of peppery cherry, mocha, cola and maple. Jammy close shows ribbons of fruit. $47
91 Seco Highlands, 2004 Pinot Noir
Arroyo Seco
Slow-to-open aromas of cherry blossom, tobacco and cedar. Lush, though peppery flavors of crushed red berries, mocha and vanilla have plenty of muscle. Tart cherry sends off the finish. $35
91 Stewart, 2003 Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley
Big aromas of black currant, candy apple, tar, underbrush and smoked meat. Sweet, layered flavors of blackberry and milk chocolate have a soothing warmth. Menthol enhances the close. $42
Syrah
89 Alisos Hills, 2003 Syrah
Santa Barbara County
Pungent aromas of oak char and smoked meat leave the fruit in the background. Intense flavors of grilled plum and tobacco. A bacon fat note lifts the close. $35
88 Beaulieu Vineyard, 2003 Syrah
Napa Valley
Warm aromas of brambly berries and milk chocolate are otherwise reserved. Silky, balanced flavors of blackberry and chocolate are set off by luscious tannins. Finish concludes with a peppery zing. $15
88 Calix Cellars, 2003 Syrah
Masked Man Vineyard, Napa Valley
Warm aromas of date, fruit cake spice and redwood. Creamy, citrusy flavors of blackberry and mocha. Long, smooth close. $33
90 Calix Cellars, 2003 Syrah
Parmalee-Hill Vineyard, Sonoma County
Pretty, bright and perfumed aromas of strawberry and cinnamon. Fresh, sweet flavors of cherry, creamed coffee and nicely integrated oak. A peppery flourish in the finish. $33
88 Curtis, 2003 Syrah
Ambassador's Vnyd, Santa Barbara County
Shy aromas of cedar and dust with the fruit hiding in the background. Surprisingly big, bold flavors of plum, oak char and espresso. Polished close. $25
89 Curtis, 2003 Syrah
Crossroads Vnyd, Santa Barbara County
Peppery, quite earthy aromas of blackberry and dusty gravel. Concentrated flavors of ripe berries, graphite and mocha. Finishes on a sweet note. $30
91 Cuvaison, 2003 Syrah
Carneros, Napa Valley
Floral scents of red berries, cedar and cocoa powder. Very concentrated, but very in control flavors of cherry, tar, earth and tobacco. Intense close exudes ripe fruit. $30
88 J. Lohr, 2004 Syrah
South Ridge, Paso Robles
Tarry, substantial aromas of plum and tobacco. Smoky, concentrated flavors of blackberry and graphite. A hint of sweetness lightens up the finish. $15
87 Morgan, 2003 Syrah
Monterey
Barnyardy aromas of fig and campfire. Chalky flavors of blackberry, mocha and tobacco ash. Dusty, dry, though not unpleasant close. $22
Ortman Family Vineyard, 2003 Syrah 88 San Luis Obispo County Deep, smoky scents of plum and pipe tobacco. Soft, though lively flavors of black fruit and leather. A citrus tang rounds out the finish. $24 87 Shadow Creek Cellars, 2003 Syrah
Santa Barbara County
Gamy aromas of black fruit, gravel and earth. Extracted flavors of mulberry, tea and molasses. Meaty close. $24
90 Shadow Canyon Cellars, 2003 Syrah
Shadow Canyon Vineyard, York Mountain
Cedary aromas of date and slate. Ripe, creamy flavors of blueberry, cigar tobacco and tar. Warm, peppery finish is heightened by ample fruit. $40
86 Smoking Loon, 2004 Syrah
California
Sweet plum aromas with notes of smoked ham and resin. Supple flavors of black cherry and plum with Baker's chocolate in the close. $9
93 Spender Roloson, 2003 Syrah
La Herradura Vineyard, Napa Valley
Well-stuffed nose of blackberry, graphite, smoke and lots of earth. Intense, smooth flavors of black cherry, mixed berries, pencil and semisweet chocolate have kirsch-like texture and brilliant balance. Loads of chocolate in the finish. $38
87 St. Francis, 2003 Syrah
Sonoma County
Huge aromas of boysenberry syrup, date and dust. Minerally flavors of blackberry, oak char and semisweet chocolate are less exuberant than suggested by the nose. Soft close. $19
88 Stevenot, 2002 Syrah
Canterbury Vineyard, Calaveras County
Pungent aromas of date, fig and fruitcake spice. Lively flavors of mixed berries, citrus and earth are much different than the nose. Vivacious finish exudes berry fruit. $16
90 Two Angels, 2004 Syrah
Shannon Ridge Vineyard, Oakville
Aromas of dry earth and bell pepper place the fruit in the background. Very expressive flavors of raspberry, orange, minerals and tobacco show great balance. Supple close. $26
87 Wattle Creek, 2001 Shiraz
Alexander Valley
Aromas of stewed plum and pine resin. Balanced flavors of blackberry and cedar conclude on a slightly warm note. Peppery finish. $28
84 Pepperwood Grove, 2004 Syrah
California
$8
Zinfandel
91 Bucklin, 2003 Zinfandel
Old Hill Ranch, Sonoma Valley
Warm, substantial aromas of cherry, plum, dusty slate, evergreen and brown spice. Intense, minerally flavors of plum, soy, chocolate and espresso. Big, tannic close needs time to soften. $30
92 Grgich Hills, 2003 Zinfandel
Miljenko's Old Vines, Napa Valley
Big aromas of stewed plum, blackberry, molasses, tar and espresso with a pretty violet note. Lively flavors of raspy mixed berries, plum, mocha, graphite and pencil. Spicy finish strewn with earth and oak. $69
89 Hanna, 2002 Zinfandel
Bismark Mountain Vnyd, Sonoma Valley
Leathery, pungent aromas of black fruit, brown sugar and mushroom. Earthy flavors of plum, cherry, mocha and chalk. Surprisingly fine tannins trumpet the close. $51
88 Ledson, 2003 Zinfandel
Russian River Valley
Aromas of rhubarb, plum, resin and tomato leaf. Very citrusy flavors of raspberry, cherry, wood and chocolate are nonetheless quite chewy. Bone-dry, somewhat hot finish. $36
90 Ledson, 2003 Zinfandel
Bacigalupi, Russian River Valley
Luscious aromas of blueberry, cherry, freshly turned earth, mint and dusty oak. Mouth-filling flavors of plum, cassis, minerals and oak spice are a bit warm, but not out of balance. Tangy, inky, citrusy close. $40
88 Plungerhead, 2004 Zinfandel
Old Vines, Dry Creek Valley
Pleasant scents of red berries, cedar and cigar box with vanillin undertones. Nicely structured with balanced flavors of raspberry, strawberry, licorice and spice notes. Crisp, spicy, varietal finish. $14
88 Sausal, 2003 Zinfandel
Century Vines, Alexander Valley
Minty aromas of plum, cedar, coffee and mocha. Flavors of blackberry, plum, mocha and coffee are pleasant if lacking complexity. Earthy close. $30
West Coast Case
Contributing Editor Steve Pitcher reviewed the following selection of current-release Pinot Noirs in San Francisco. The wines were tasted blind.
90 Alma Rosa, 2004 Pinot Noir
Santa Rita Hills
Inaugural release from Richard Sanford following his departure from Sanford Winery, this well-priced Pinot offers upfront aromas of black cherry, raspberry and plum compote with a touch of dried herbs. The sweet Pinot flavors replicate the nose with the addition of subtle smokiness, are buoyed by lively acidity and snuggle within a near-opulent texture. $30 / 2,645 cases (screwcap)
89 Cima Collina, 2004 Pinot Noir
Monterey County
Forward, bright, clean red cherry-cranberry-pomegranate fruit laced with a touch of black cherry define the aromas, which carry over to the palate of this well-crafted, fruity Pinot that's round and plush, tending toward viscous and quite easy to drink. More delicate and elegant than powerful, but with refreshing acidity and a cleansing aftertaste that enables the wine to pair well with a variety of dishes, especially grilled salmon. $26 / 675 cases
91 Foley, 2004 Pinot Noir
Clone 2A, Santa Rita Hills
A barrel selection of Pinot vinified from a Swiss clone, this unusual bottling is surprisingly complex, offering enticing scents of forest floor earthiness, just-crushed wild raspberry and black cherry tinged with blueberry, mocha and vanilla. The flavors replicate the nose and are deep and generous. A silky smooth, big-yet-elegant wine. $45 /
249 cases 91 Foley, 2004 Pinot Noir
Pommard Clone, Santa Rita Hills
An elegant Pinot sourced entirely from a single, 3.8-acre block planted exclusively to the Pommard Clone, displays tantalizing aromas of raspberry, red cherry, freshly crushed, juicy pomegranate seeds and vanilla custard. Rich and velvety on the palate with medium tannins and refreshing acidity, the wine's generous flavors echo the nose. $45 / 151 cases
91 Foley, 2004 Pinot Noir
Rancho Santa Rosa, Santa Rita Hills
Complex, forward aromas of red cherry and boysenberry accented by Asian spice box and freshly turned topsoil. Round and plush with medium tannins, offering generous red fruit flavors laced with spice. Elegant and refined, with an extended close tinged with minerality. $38 / 2,865 cases
92 Migration, 2004 Pinot Noir
Anderson Valley
This is Goldeneye's second label, but hardly a second-class wine. In fact, the last two vintages of Migration have been extraordinary. Originally meant to be in a lighter style than the grand vin, the 2004 Migration instead turned out to be rich and full bodied without overt heaviness, displaying aromas of cinnamon toast, black cherry, wilted roses, red plum and similar flavors that are deep and exciting and enhanced by notes of dried cranberry and subtle earthiness. Tasted open. $30 / 2,498 cases
91 Morgan, 2004 Pinot Noir
Double L Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands
Deep, profound aromas of mocha, mushrooms and dark berries with a touch of high-tone raspberry and a glint of minerality. Rich and silky with medium, fine-grain tannins, this complex Pinot is fairly brimming with black cherry, cassis and raspberry fruit, cola nut and nutmeg spice, finishing with a wisp of white smoke. $50 / 650 cases
90 Morgan, 2004 Pinot Noir
Rosella's Vnyd, Santa Lucia Highlands
Wildly fragrant nose of red cherry, red currant, rose petals and mushroom. Ripe and rich, reflecting a warm vintage for Santa Lucia Highlands, the wine offers copious red berry-red cherry laced with subtle minerality, a touch of smokiness, a luxurious texture and perky acidity. $45 / 400 cases
91 Papapietro Perry, 2004 Pinot Noir
Elsbree Vineyards, Russian River Valley
Come-hither scents of ripe, freshly crushed wild strawberry, brown spice and subtly smoky oak are replicated on the palate, where a little earthiness enters the picture. The polished tannins and balancing acidity enhance the wine perfectly, prolonging the spice-laced finish. $45 / 550 cases
90 Peters Family, 2004 Pinot Noir
Dunah Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
Perfumed nose of framboise, red cherry and freshly baked cinnamon rolls, plus a hint of mint. Round, fleshy and juicy, with medium tannins and a complex mix of intense flavors of cassis, raspberry, vanilla and dried lavender, which extend into the mineral-tinged finish. Winemaker Doug Peters' first crack at Pinot is a home run. $42 / 203 cases
92 Rideau, 2004 Pinot Noir
Sanford & Benedict Vnyd, Santa Rita Hills
Forward aromas of black cherry, framboise, mocha and a hint of dried herbs. Juicy and luscious on the palate with fine tannins and deep, extracted flavors of wild strawberry and blueberry, this richly textured Pinot is noticeably viscous; big in style and quite a mouthful, yet balanced. $52 / 169 cases
90 WillaKenzie, 2004 Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, Oregon
Warm, inviting nose of freshly baked cherry pie with subtle notes of fresh lavender and minerals. Ultrasmooth and polished with fine tannins, the wine's vibrant flavors replicate the nose with a wonderful sour cherry component that persists into the finish, where some white pepper emerges. $23 / 3,774 cases (screwcap)
Tutored Tastings
Groth
The following wines were tasted by BuyLine panelist John Stroker at a luncheon held by Dennis and Judy Groth at Two Chefs, in Miami on February 22. The wines were not tasted blind.
89 Groth, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Napa Valley
Bright yellow-green hue. Pretty scents of minerals, melon and apricot. Delicate on entry with crisp apple, flint and citrus fruit notes. Clean finish with a pleasant minerality that echoes the nose. $19
92 Groth, 2004 Chardonnay
Yountville, Napa Valley
Straw yellow hue. Delicate nose of flint, vanilla and apple. Great minerality on entry with pear, creamy pineapple and stone fruit flavors. Pepper notes ring in a close that showcases citrusy acidity. $28
92 Groth, 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon
Oakville, Napa Valley
Dense garnet hue. Aromas of raisin, bacon fat and resin. Bright cherry flavors frame mahogany, chocolate and earthy bramble nuances. Drying close shows raisin, dried plum and tar impressions. $N/A
90 Groth, 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Oakville, Napa Valley
Dense coffee hue with red notes at the rim. Scents of mocha and espresso with a touch of herbaceousness. Very silky palate feel with spicy black cherry flavors and a hint of sweetness. Tart cherry pit dominates the finish. $N/A
93 Groth, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon
Oakville, Napa Valley
Deep violet robe. Pretty bouquet presents clove, black fruit and light herbal notes. Juicy flavorings on entry with strawberry, cherry and plum with a hint of orange. Dusty tannins are showcased in the finish with heady espresso and earth highlights. $N/A
95 Groth, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Oakville, Napa Valley
Pretty blackish-purple hue. Appealing bouquet with dusty gravel and wild berry aromas. Great silky texture on entry with dense black cherry and brown sugar flavors that possess great focus and integration of tannins. Impressions of sweet berries in the balanced and drying close. A hefty wine with all the components for cellaring. $150
94 Groth, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Oakville, Napa Valley
Pretty garnet hue with red notes at the edge. Bouquet of maple syrup and violets with a hint of orange peel. Forward, bright cherry fruit on entry that gives way to powerful, but focused oaky tannins. Tart and drying close with spicy clove and earth nuances. $N/A
93 Groth, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Oakville, Napa Valley
Deep purple robe with a reddish tinge at the rim. Fresh scents of blueberry and ripe raspberry. Rich, sweet berry flavors echo on the palate with an espresso note and loads of cedar-infused tannins. Tar and cedar evolve in the gravelly finish. $60
93 Groth, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Oakville, Napa Valley
Deep crimson-cola hue. Pretty scents of mint, eucalyptus and sweet maple. Silky-smooth entry showcases black cherry and tarry tobacco flavors and slightly gritty tannins. Tart cherry pit in a drying, yet focused close. $60
93 Groth, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Oakville, Napa Valley
Deep blackish-purple hue with fuchsia notes at the edge. Forward aromas of maple and violets. Surprisingly smooth on entry for a young wine; caramel and brown sugar notes frame blueberry and boysenberry flavors. Blueberry continues to ring in the long finish. This wine should continue to improve with additional age. $N/A (barrel sample)
St. Supéry Challenge
The following wines were tasted by BuyLine panelist Fred Tasker at Chispa in Coral Gables, Florida, on April 12 at a tasting led by St. Supéry winemaker Michael Beaulac. The wines were not tasted blind.
91 St. Supéry, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Dollarhide, Limited Edition, Napa Valley
Aromas and flavors of cut grass, flint and white grapefruit are very varietal, viscous and voluptuous; crisp and rich close. $35
90 St. Supéry, 2004 Virtu
Napa Valley
Honey, peach and cinnamon aromas and flavors are spicy, rich and opulent. A streak of sweet lime in the finish. (55% sauvignon blanc, 45% sémillon) $28
90 Kim Crawford, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, New Zealand
Aromas and flavors of grass and gooseberry; rich, ripe, tart and voluptuous. Classic Kiwi SB. $18
89 Dagueneau, 2003 Pur Sang
Pouilly-Fumé, France
Aromas of oak and flowers. Crisp and flinty honey and grapefruit flavors. $79
88 Brander, 2005 Sauvignon Cuvée Nicolas
Santa Ynez
Aromas of melon, lemon and oak. Tart white grapefruit flavors. $24
88 St. Supéry, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Napa Valley
Aromas and flavors of grass, melon and white grapefruit are very fruity, lush and surprisingly dry given the wine's ripeness. $19
88 Craggy Range, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Te Muna Vnyd, Martinborough, N Z
Crisp, lush and smooth with asparagus and white cream scents and flavors; long finish. $25
87 Mulderbosch, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Hints of oak and sweet green melon in the nose; tart, spritzy, intensely fruity in the mouth. $20
85 Sanct Valentin, 2003 Sauvignon Blanc
Alto Adige, Italy
Delicate pine needle aromas. Tart lemon flavors. Soft, though somewhat flat finish. $39
85 Concha y Toro, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Terruyno, Casablanca, Chile
Aromas and flavors of sweet pineapple and lemon; soft and light bodied, though not without charm. $20
About the BuyLine Panel: More than 100 wines are reviewed in every issue of Wine News. All wines are tasted double-blind and each entry is evaluated and scored based upon individual merit. Wines that score above 70 points are recommended in the BuyLine. Tasting and interpreting wine is a purely subjective exercise; all scores and accompanying tasting notes represent the collective opinions of our panel.
Wine Samples: Send samples for review with retail price affixed to:
Wine News BuyLine Tasting Panel
1501 Venera Avenue, Suite 320
Coral Gables, FL 33146
Telephone: 305.740.7170
The Panel: Maurice Adams, specialty food and wine merchant; Lyn Farmer, senior staff columnist; Abraham Horowitz, BuyLine panelist; Tom E. Smith, publisher; John Stroker, BuyLine panelist; Fred Tasker, Miami Herald wine critic; Todd M. Wernstrom, executive editor.
Scoring: Tasting notes reflect the panel's collective impressions; scores are averaged and represent the panel's mean. Wines possessing certain criteria will be singled out for special recognition:
Taster's Choice: Wines which display outstanding quality, character and potential.
Best Value Wines of exceptional quality which sell at a moderate price.
Stemware: Riedel Ouverture tasting glasses.
Pricing: Prices vary from state to state. Retail prices listed are approximate.
