Because Italians traditionally begin their meals with fruit, combining apple, mixed greens and Parma ham makes for an elegant presentation
	Prosciutto di Parma - Cured ham with a royal reputation By Barbara Posner Beltrami
		This little piggy went to market - but only after a rigorous production and quality control process that rendered its hind quarters certifiable as the one and only (but often imitated) Prosciutto di Parma, sometimes referred to in English-speaking countries as Parma ham. Supple and velvety in texture, rosy in color, and sweet-salty in fragrance, this increasingly popular salt-cured pork comes from Italy's famed Emilia-Romagna region, long regarded by many as the citadel of that country's cuisine. Like its cousin, the equally esteemed and carefully produced Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, Prosciutto di Parma is a staple in and around Parma. "In fact," says Paolo Tramelli, marketing director for the Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma, "many families in that region keep a prosciutto slicer handy in much the same way that American families keep a toaster or coffee maker." Although it is sometimes chopped and used to add flavor to numerous regional dishes, in Parma as well as in much of Italy, it is most often served sliced paper-thin and draped artfully on a plate as an appetizer or spuntino (light snack), served with perhaps a little bread or glass of Malvasia or Lambrusco, the region's most visible table wines. Certainly there are other prosciutti, such as the darker-colored San Daniele from Friuli and those called di Modena, di Norcia and Toscano. But any self-respecting Parmagiano home cook or chef will assure outsiders that Prosciutto di Parma is the Italian ham of choice. Few prosciutto purists would disagree. But in addition to the sheer gustatory pleasure it delivers, there is also good news for the health-conscious. Prosciutto di Parma is an all-natural ham that, according to the Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma, at about 75 calories an ounce (approximately two slices), provides six grams of protein and six grams of fat (about two-thirds of which is polyunsaturated), along with energy-boosting free amino acids and B vitamins. Together with these purported nutritional attributes and its inherent delicacy, Prosciutto di Parma is arguably one of the most versatile and widely used ingredients in the Italian culinary repertoire - from appetizers to desserts. Consider its quintessential pairing with fresh figs; its supporting role in a classic tortellini with tomatoes and peas; the depth it lends to a silky roasted pepper Napoleon or an otherwise ordinary mozzarella and artichoke pizza. A simple salad of prosciutto-wrapped endive-apple salad can begin a meal as elegantly as a luscious dessert of glazed plums, with prosciutto acting as the salty foil, can be the finale. Indeed, American chefs and home cooks are employing prosciutto in more ways than ever, but advocates insist that the prosciutto of choice should be Parma for its wonderful texture, quality and exquisite flavors. Mario Batali, celebrity chef and co-owner of the New York restaurant Babbo (among others), endorses it in his book Simple Italian Food: "Although every region in Italy considers handmade salume an important part of its cooking heritage...the undisputed king of cured meats is Prosciutto di Parma." He also continues his admiration in his new tome, Molto Italiano. "In my dream world," he writes, "everyone has an industrial deli slicer at home and spends half the day slicing prosciutto for their friends." Certainly the ham has a history worthy of such loyal friendship. As early as 100 B.C., Cato wrote about the practice of buying pork legs in barrels filled with salt, then drying and smoking them. Once the Parmagiani figured out how to air-cure the meat, the smoking step was discontinued. The Romans customarily started their meals with fruit, so it doesn't require a very big leap of the imagination to envision figs or melon being accompanied by ham from Parma in classical times when the latter was one of the delicacies heaped upon banquet tables. And then there was Hannibal, who stopped near Parma to resuscitate his troops with local wine, bread and some ancestral version of today's Parma ham. While written culinary histories from the period are lacking, the main door of Parma's 13th century cathedral bears a sculpture depicting the months of the year, with November depicted by the killing of a pig, a ritual that to this day is celebrated in rural regions. It was some centuries before the production process for prosciutto would become refined, but by the 19th century, when air-drying became the preferred method of curing, private homes in the region were often conscripted for space; in fact, it was not unusual to see hams suspended from the rafters in every possible space so that the inhabitants literally ate, slept and breathed prosciutto. In fact, the entire existence of Langhirano, the modern center of Prosciutto di Parma production, is based on the curing and tending of the ham. Like wine or any authentic agricultural product, the legal requirements for the origin of the pigs and the site of curing are based on the principle of terroir - that soil, plant life, climate and production methods have a synergistic effect whose result is a product that cannot be duplicated elsewhere. Moreover, unlike most cured meats, Parma ham contains absolutely no additives such as nitrates, water, smoke, spices, sugar, steroids or hormones. Rather, in accordance with tradition, only four ingredients are used in the Prosciutto di Parma recipe: specially bred and precisely fed Italian pigs, sea salt, air and time. Although curing techniques may have changed over the 20 centuries of accumulated expertise and production practices that have contributed to the ham's unflagging excellence, Prosciutto di Parma remains more a product of the human hand than of machines. From the breeding to the slaughtering to the trimming and salting; from the resting and initial curing to the final curing; from the quality testing to the fire branding, production is a long and painstaking process subject to meticulous quality control. Only when each ham has met these rigorous standards - about four percent are rejected - does it receive the five-point ducal crown logo that is synonymous with Prosciutto di Parma. Little more than 15 years ago, this coveted Italian comestible was virtually unavailable in the United States because of USDA concerns over contamination from animal diseases that had been eliminated here. After extensive testing in both the U.S. and Italy, however, it was proven that the natural curing process effectively destroyed any harmful bacteria. In 1987, Prosciutto di Parma was given the green light for export to the states, but with the provision that curing time must be a minimum of 400 days as opposed to the 300 days required elsewhere, so it was not until the autumn of 1989 that it actually reached American specialty markets. Years later, after battles over Protected Designations of Origins (PDOs), the European Court of Justice ruled in 2003 that in the case of Parma ham "operations such as grating, slicing and packaging …are prohibited to parties outside the region of production." The Parma Consorzio welcomed the decision, and these days all Prosciutto di Parma sold in the United States and elsewhere, whether it's pre-sliced and packaged or sliced to order, is produced and processed in its place of origin. "Pre-sliced Parma ham has a shelf life of 90 days if refrigerated, and even then it doesn't actually go bad; it just starts to lose some of its delicate appearance and flavor," explains David Biltchik, an advisor to the Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma, which has 200 members, 40 of which are licensed to export. A tour of one of these prosciuttoficio confirms that the producers adhere to the highest standards: workers are clad in sanitary white uniforms from head to toe, the terra cotta-tiled floors are immaculate and the modern stainless steel equipment is gleaming. After a young pig has been pampered with grains and whey (the latter a byproduct of the region's Parmigiano-Reggiano cheesemaking process) at any one of some 5,500 breeding farms - 95 percent of which are family-run - the nine- to ten-month-old porker, which tips the scale at a minimum of 340 pounds, is sent to one of 180 sanctioned slaughterhouses to meet its fate. The tradition-steeped production process is then set into motion and meticulously documented at each step so that every ham is entirely traceable. A skilled butcher first trims the Parma ham into its typical drumstick shape, and then it's on to the salatore, who massages sea salt into the meat; it is then refrigerated at an 80 percent humidity level for a week, give or take a day. At this first rest period, the residual salt is removed and the ham gets a second thin coating of salt that remains for another 14 to 18 days. It is the salatore's job to adjust temperature and humidity so that the leg absorbs the salt to cure it, but not to render it salty, thereby ensuring its reputation as a "sweet ham." (By the time it is ready for market, only a very small percentage of the salt remains.) Next stop is a refrigerated, humidity-controlled room. After hanging here for about two months, the meat is washed with warm water and brushed to remove residual salt, then hung in a drying room with large windows that, when the outside temperature and humidity are just right, are opened to let in the Apennine breezes that waft over the Langhirano countryside. After three months, the exposed surface of the ham has dried sufficiently and it's moved to a dark, cavernous room where the outside of the meat is softened with a paste of lard, salt and pepper and hung on racks for four months or so, at which point it will have lost more than 25 percent of its original weight. By the time the process is complete, a Prosciutto di Parma will have been cured for at least 300 days, and as long as two-and-one-half years for those that are prepared stagionato (aged). It may seem like a long time to get these not-so-little piggies to market, but the end result is inimitable (and far more quickly consumed than it is produced). Marcella Hazan, the doyenne of Italian cuisine and an Emilia-Romagna native, calls Prosciutto di Parma "the finest of all Italian ham" and "an old friend to cooks," embellishing her signature dishes, such as red snapper sautéed with white wine, with it. "Since it is air-cured, it brings no distracting smokiness into the food with which it is cooked," she writes in her recently released book, Marcella Says. If you're feeling less ambitious than Hazan, you need only procure some paper-thin Prosciutto di Parma from a reliable purveyor. Fan the ham out on a cool plate, break out some breadsticks, pour a glass of Prosecco and you've recreated a time-honored recipe for a little slice of Italian heaven. Barbara Posner Beltrami is a freelance food writer and educator who lives on Long Island with her wine-writer husband. Prosciutto with Grilled Figs Adapted from Molto Italiano by Chef Mario Batali 12 ripe figs, halved 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 4 ounces Prosciutto di Parma, sliced paper thin Preheat the grill or broiler. Place fig halves in a small bowl, add 3 tablespoons of oil and toss to coat. Place figs cut side down on grill or cut side up on baking sheet under the broiler and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until lightly charred. Transfer to a plate and allow to cool. Fan prosciutto on plates and top with figs. Serves 4 Prosciutto di Parma & Roasted Pepper Napoleon Adapted from the Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma 3 large sweet red and/or yellow bell peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded and quartered 1 pound good quality mozzarella cheese, cut in 12 slices 3 ounces thinly sliced Prosciutto di Parma, halved 8 fresh basil leaves 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon good quality balsamic vinegar Basil sprigs for garnish (optional) On 4 salad plates, arrange alternate layers of peppers, mozzarella and Prosciutto di Parma. Repeat two more times, adding a single layer of basil leaves. Drizzle with oil and vinegar. Garnish with basil sprigs, if using. Serves 4 as an appetizer Apple-Endive Salad Wrapped in Prosciutto di Parma Chef Justin Ward, Harvest Restaurant, Atlanta 1/4 cup olive oil 1 tablespoon apple juice 1 tablespoon raspberry vinegar 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 small Granny Smith apple, peeled and cored 2 ounces Belgian endive 1 ounce radicchio 1 cup frisée 4 thin slices (2 ounces) Prosciutto di Parma 2 teaspoons balsamic syrup (reduced balsamic vinegar) 1/3 cup (3/4 ounce) Blue cheese, crumbled 11/2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted In a large bowl, combine olive oil, apple juice, raspberry vinegar, salt and pepper. Julienne apple, endive and radicchio in 2" to 3" lengths; add to bowl together with frisée; toss. In the center of a large plate, place a 3" flan ring mold; firmly pack half of the endive mixture into the mold; remove the mold. Repeat with remaining mixture to make the second portion. Wrap each molded salad mixture with 2 slices Prosciutto di Parma. Drizzle each plate with 1 teaspoon reduced balsamic vinegar; sprinkle with blue cheese and pine nuts, dividing evenly. Serves 2 Go-with-the-Grain Salad Adapted from Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma 1 cup barley, brown rice, wheat berries or bulgur 8 ounces Prosciutto di Parma, thinly sliced 6 cherry tomatoes, quartered 3/4 cup diced red bell pepper 1/2 cup chopped scallions, including some of the green tops 1/3 cup chopped fresh basil 11/2 cups Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese in thin shavings or coarsely grated, divided 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 teaspoons lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper Basil sprigs (optional) Cook barley or other whole grain until tender; place in a large bowl and allow to cool. While the barley or other grains are cooking, cut enough Prosciutto di Parma in 1" wide strips to make 1/2 cup; reserve the remaining slices. In a large bowl, combine ham strips, tomatoes, bell pepper, green onions, basil, 1/2 cup of the Parmigiano-Reggiano, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Add barley or grains; toss to combine. On the side of each plate, fan reserved Prosciutto di Parma slices. Spoon salad onto centers of plates, dividing equally. Scatter remaining 1 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano shavings over the salad. Garnish with basil sprig, if desired. Serves 6 (about 4 cups) Prosciutto, Artichoke & Mozzarella Pizza Adapted from the Red Clay Restaurant Cambridge, Massachusetts One 9-ounce package frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and halved 1 pound pizza dough 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 large onion, sliced 1 garlic clove, minced 8 ounces ricotta cheese 1 tablespoon lemon juice Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste 2 tablespoons chopped basil 3 tablespoons chopped Italian flat leaf parsley 6 ounces thinly sliced Prosciutto di Parma, torn into strips 8 ounces high-quality fresh mozzarella, cut into 1/2" slices 8 medium Italian plum tomatoes, pared, seeded and diced 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Preheat oven to 500°. Divide pizza dough into 4 equal pieces. Roll into balls, cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 20 minutes. In a skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add artichokes, garlic, salt and pepper; heat through. In a medium bowl, combine ricotta, lemon juice, basil, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Roll each ball of dough into a 9" circle and transfer to four oiled 10" pans. Spread ricotta mixture evenly over pizza dough, leaving a 1/2" border. Scatter prosciutto, mozzarella, tomatoes, and Parmigiano cheese evenly over top. Bake pizzas until crusts are crisp and brown, about 10 minutes. Tortellini with Prosciutto di Parma, Tomatoes & Peas Adapted from the Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma 1 pound fresh or frozen cheese tortellini 5 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/2 cup chopped onion 1 garlic clove, minced 11/2 cups halved cherry tomatoes 3/4 cup fresh or frozen baby peas 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 ounces Prosciutto di Parma, cut into thin strips 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (optional) In a large pot of boiling water, cook tortellini until they float; drain. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, over medium-high heat, melt butter. Add onion and garlic, stirring until tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, peas, salt and pepper; cook until just heated through, about 2 minutes. Add hot tortellini and prosciutto and toss gently. Serve with grated cheese, if desired. Serves 4 as an appetizer or 2 as a main course Red Snapper Sautéed with Prosciutto di Parma & White Wine Adapted from Marcella Says by Marcella Hazan 2 pounds fresh red snapper fillets 3 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Flour, spread on a large dinner plate 1/2 cup dry white wine Fine sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 11/2 tablespoons fresh or 1 tablespoon dry thyme 1/4 pound Prosciutto di Parma, sliced thin, preferably with its fat still on Wash fish in cold, running water, then pat fillets dry with kitchen towels. Put butter and oil in a 12" skillet or sauté pan over high heat. When the butter foam begins to subside, dredge the fillets in flour on both sides, shake off excess and slip them into the pan. Cook at a lively heat for 2 minutes on each side, then carefully lift them from the pan with a broad spatulas and transfer them temporarily to a plate. Pour the wine into the pan. When it has partially bubbled away, return the fillets, skin side down, to the pan, sprinkle with salt, pepper, thyme and cover fillets with prosciutto. Turn heat down to medium; spoon juices in the pan over the fish, put a lid on the pan and cook for 2 more minutes. Carefully lift fillets from the pan and transfer them to a warm serving platter. Pour all the pan juices over the fillets, and serve at once. Serves 4 Quail with Artichokes Adapted from Molto Italiano by Chef Mario Batali 8 semi-boneless quail Salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 slices Prosciutto di Parma 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 8 medium artichokes, trimmed, choke removed, cut into wedges and held in a bowl of lemon water 8 cloves garlic, lightly crushed 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 cup dry white wine 1/2 cup parsley leaves Season each quail with salt and pepper. Wrap each in a slice of prosciutto, secure it with toothpicks. In a 10" to 12" sauté pan, heat olive oil over high heat until almost smoking. Add the quail, a few at a time, and brown on all sides. Transfer to a large plate and keep warm. Add artichokes, garlic and tomato paste to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomato paste turns a deep rust color, about 8 minutes. Add wine, cover and cook until artichokes are tender, about 6 minutes. Add parsley and set aside. Add quail and cover. Cook until meat is just pink at the leg bone, about 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a warm platter and serve. Serves 4 Prosciutto di Parma & Glazed Plums with Gorgonzola Adapted from the Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma 4 ripe plums, pitted and quartered 1 tablespoon sugar 1/2 cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese, room temperature 8 baguette slices, toasted 8 very thin slices of Prosciutto di Parma 1/2 cup toasted walnut halves Preheat broiler. Line broiler pan with foil. Place plum quarters on pan and sprinkle with sugar; let stand for 10 minutes. Broil until softened and slightly caramelized, about 5 minutes. Spread 1 tablespoon Gorgonzola on each toast slice. On each of four plates, arrange 4 plum quarters, 2 slices prosciutto and two Gorgonzola-topped toasts. Sprinkle with walnuts. Serves 4 Prosciutto di Parma and Arugula Rolls Adapted from Chef Cesare Casella, Beppe, New York City 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced 1/2 cup red wine vinegar 4 cups arugula leaves 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste 8 thin slices (about 4 ounces) Prosciutto di Parma In a non-reactive bowl, marinate onion in red wine vinegar for at least 30 minutes. Drain and discard the vinegar. In a large bowl, toss together the arugula leaves, olive oil, salt, pepper, and marinated onion. Place Prosciutto di Parma slices in a single layer on a work surface. Dividing evenly, arrange dressed greens and onions in the center of each slice. Roll prosciutto slices around salad mixture. Serves 4. - BPB

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