Wine Reviews from Wine News
tasters' choice selections
97 La Spinetta, 2001 Campé
Barolo, Italy
Deep garnet hue. Nicely evolved, pretty aromas of dried cherry, rose petals, dust and tobacco. Foursquare, tangy flavors of strawberry, cherry and menthol have a kirsch-like texture, great balance and citrusy acidity. Long, warm close oozes licorice. $130 / 1,500 cases
96 Louis Jadot, 2003 Les Demoiselles
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, France
Medium gold hue. Ripe, perfumed aromas of pear cake, pineapple, baking spice, honey and toffee. Soft and fresh, but not overwroughtly opulent flavors of lemon curd, butterscotch and bee pollen. Pineapple notes emerge in the otherwise buttery finish. $334
96 La Spinetta, 2003 Vigneto Valeirano
Barbaresco, Italy
Black-garnet hue. Faintly floral scents of dried cherry, tobacco and tar. Intense, integrated flavors of cherry preserves, cedar box and brown spice exhibit toothy tannins that are not unpleasant despite the wine's youth. Tangy, dry close promises a long life, but the wine needs time. $120
96 Oasi degli Angeli, 2003 Kurni
Marche IGT, Italy
Purple hue. Quite reserved at first, then the nose explodes with blackberry, date, licorice and graphite aromas. Velvety smooth, supple, deep flavors of cherry preserves, semisweet chocolate and minerals that show layers of plushness. Incredibly long, luscious, fruit-strewn finish. $110
best value selections
90 Josef Brigl, 2005 Pinot Grigio
Altanuta, Alto Adige, Italy
Pale gold hue. Reserved aromas of apple blossom and wet stone. Round, fresh flavors of orange peel and lemon are well assembled. Palate-revitalizing close. $15 / 20,000 cases
89 Louis Jadot, 2004 Chapelle aux Loups
Saint-Véran, France
Light yellow hue. Very fresh, very delicate scents of lime and chalk. Flavors of tart apple and hay with wood notes show excellent balance and weight. Smooth finish doesn't lack for fruit. $14
88 Rawson's Retreat, 2005 Merlot
South Eastern Australia
Dense purple hue. Expressive black cherry aromas with a secondary menthol nuance. Fresh cherry and cranberry flavors with light oak accents. This is a clean, well-made Merlot with polished tannins and tempered acidity. $9
88 Banfi, 2004 Centine
Toscana IGT, Italy
Medium crimson hue. Warm, loamy aromas of brambly berries and dried tobacco. Soft, fresh flavors of plum and minerals. A cleansing tartness carries the close. $12
California
Pinot Grigio
87 Sanford, 2005 Pinot Grigio
Santa Barbara
Citrus peel and mineral aromas. Light and airy with orange and vanilla flavors. Flinty finish with the sweetness balanced and in control. $19
87 Terlato Vineyards, 2005 Pinot Grigio
Russian River
Fresh grapefruit aromas with a secondary herbaceous note. Lively citrus flavors with mineral and honey accents. A crisp, racy wine that closes on a dry note. $26
84 Forest Glen, 2005 Pinot Grigio
California - $10
Cabernet Sauvignon
91 Atlas Peak, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Howell Mountain, Napa Valley
Cedary aromas of plum, cherry, flint, mint and earth. Very minerally, extremely intense flavors of blueberry, plum, chalk and wood spice; a hefty wine that manages its size with aplomb. Crisp close builds gradually. $86
89 Atlas Peak, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Mount Veeder, Napa Valley
Wood notes peak through aromas of cherry, maple, cola, clove and pencil. Flavors of black fruit, root beer, new oak and cedar are more forthcoming than the nose. Scratchy finish. $86
88 Atlas Peak, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Spring Mountain, Napa Valley
Woody aromas of blueberry, tobacco, cola and menthol. Dry, gritty, earthy flavors of blackberry, minerals and chocolate. Tooth-coating close. $86
92 Chateau St. Jean, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Sonoma County
Subtle combination of plum, blueberry, dried tobacco, dust, licorice and vanilla extract. Rich, though far from cloying flavors of plum, cherry, licorice and minerals with wood notes. Long, tingly finish oozes sweet fruit. $90
93 Far Niente, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Estate, Oakville, Napa Valley
Pretty aromas of black cherry, plum, dried tobacco, violets, cedar and mint. Inky flavors of sweet plum, coffee, minerals, chocolate and mint are as creamy as they are intense. Lingering, fruit-strewn close concludes on a peppery note. $115
89 Mount Veeder, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Deep, grapy aromas of blueberry, cherry, dust and black coffee. Zingy flavors of tart, gritty black fruit, tobacco and tea. Fruit-filled finish. $40
88 Reynolds Family, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Estate Select, Napa Valley
Aromas of cherry, licorice, clove and mint show a pleasant warmth. Supple flavors of red berries, plum and chocolate conclude on a tart note. Bittersweet chocolate in the close. $45
93 Reynolds Family, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Stags Leap District
Compact, heady aromas of blueberry, cassis, pencil, tar and a fistful of just-picked mint. Sweet, gravelly flavors of blackberry, wood spice and cola soften with air. A trace of treacle in the nuanced close. $87
88 St. Clement, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Oroppas, Napa Valley
Warm, earthy aromas of brambly raspberry, plum and vanilla with mocha notes. Crisp, balanced flavors of mixed berries, cherry and chocolate have gripping tannins. Tangy finish. $50
90 White Hall Lane, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Napa Valley
Charred scents of black cherry, coffee grounds, tar and oily minerals. The charred theme continues on substantial flavors of plum, earth, mint and coffee. Smooth, sweet finish. $75
90 William Hill, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Napa Valley
Reserved aromas of black cherry, blueberry, pencil shavings and dust. Very concentrated flavors of black plum, crushed gravel and sweet tobacco framed by peppery acidity. Focused finish. $52
84 Coastal Ridge, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
California - $7
Australia
Chardonnay
Lindemans, 2005 Bin 65 Chardonnay 86 South Eastern Australia Fresh pineapple, vanilla and caramel aromas. Supple pear and apple flavors with a ripe, easy-drinking close. $8
86 Penfolds, 2004 Chardonnay
Thomas Hyland, South Australia
Ripe pineapple aromas with toasted oak notes. Creamy and soft with peach and pear flavors. Sweet finish with a bit of minerality adding complexity to the fruitiness. $14
87 The Little Penguin, 2005 Chardonnay
South Eastern Australia
Buttery peach and pineapple aromas. Upfront sweetness with flavors of peach, apricot and pineapple. A very juicy, nectar-like wine that's ready to drink. $8
87 Wolf Blass, 2005 Chardonnay
Yellow Label, South Australia
Lightly toasted bouquet of ripe pineapple aromas. Sweet pineapple and peach flavors laced with oak nuances. Lingering tropical fruit in the close. $12
86 Yalumba, 2005 Chardonnay
Wild Ferment, Eden Valley
Well-toasted aromas with secondary citrus notes. Plenty of tropical fruit flavors; however, charred oak is the main theme here and lingers with grilled pineapple in the finish. $17
83 Jindalee, 2004 Chardonnay
South Eastern Australia - $8
85 Peter Lehmann, 2005 Chardonnay
Barossa - $12
84 Rawson's Retreat, 2005 Chardonnay
South Eastern Australia - $9
Shiraz
88 Angove's, 2004 Shiraz
Vineyard Select, McLaren Vale
Dusty aromas of black fruit, cedar box and coffee grounds. Minerally flavors of plum and earth have a kirsch-like texture. Warm, peppery close. $20
88 Jim Barry, 2004 The Lodge Hill Shiraz
Clare Valley
Intense, though not overwhelming aromas of cherries jubilee, minerals and earth. Tangy flavors of black currant and gravel have a minerally freshness. Finish is raspy and alive. $17
87 Lindemans, 2004 Shiraz
Reserve, Padthaway
Ripe plum and prune aromas with hints of cherry, chocolate and mint. Plum and blueberry flavors with a kiss of chocolate in the finish. $10
87 Mitolo, 2004 Jester Shiraz
McLaren Vale, Australia
Lots of tar notes lead to blackberry, dried tobacco and earth aromas. Warm flavors of stewed plum and oak are a bit too concentrated. Warm, peppery close. $20
87 Penfolds, 2004 Shiraz
Koonunga Hill, South Eastern Australia
Forward aromas of plum, blueberry and lightly toasted oak. Ready-to-drink flavors of blueberry, minerals and oak. Simple, easy-drinking finish; clean and enjoyable. $12
91 Penfolds, 2002 St. Henri Shiraz
South Australia
Lovely blueberry, cherry-chocolate scents with an edge of menthol and smoke. Layers of cherry and mocha flavors laced with very fine, chalky tannins. Lengthy, intense finish with plenty of black fruit, minerals and charred oak notes. $40
93 Penfolds, 2003 Shiraz
Magill Estate, South Australia
Exquisite bouquet of toasted oak, grains, blueberry and maple. Soft and supple on the palate with a great meld of forest floor, crushed berries and power-packed cedar tannins. Tart cherry pit, dusty Baker's chocolate and crushed berry nuances on a smooth, clean finish. $50
93 Penfolds, 2003 RWT Shiraz
Barossa Valley, Australia
Sweet aromas of jammy black fruit and mocha. Supple entry followed by lively toasted oak, blueberry and plum flavors that are laced with combed tannins. Attractive in terms of fruit; however, the close is balanced with rustic mineral and toasted oak notes. $75
88 Penfolds, 2003 Bin 28 Shiraz
Kalimna, South Eastern Australia
Subdued aromas of blackberry, earth, black pepper and wood. Flavors of plum, Baker's chocolate and bacon fat are very silky. Long close. $22
90 Peter Lehmann, 2004 Shiraz
Barossa
Pungent aromas of cherry and black earth. Warm, accessible flavors of ripe plum and chocolate-covered cherry. The finish is lengthy and creamy with a continuation of cherry-chocolate notes. $16
89 Shaw and Smith, 2004 Shiraz
Adelaide Hills
Shy scents of blackberry, molasses and pine resin pick up fragrance as the wine airs. Wood shows through plum, tobacco, tar and graphite flavors. More oak in the focused close. $30
89 Taltarni, 2004 Heathcote Shiraz
Heathcote
Cedary, herbaceous aromas of mixed berries and dusty slate. Very intense flavors of blackberry, tar and black pepper are quite dry. Tobacco marks the spicy finish. $35
91 Two Hands, 2005 Shiraz
Angels Share, McLaren Vale
Intense aromas of blackberry, cola, graphite and earth show great style. Lashings of wood frame ample flavors of brambly berries, blueberry, black pepper and pencil. Tingly close is packed with black fruit. $30
90 Wolf Blass, 2004 Shiraz
Gold Label, Barossa
Rhône-like aromas of mixed berries, tobacco, violets and earth. Big, though quite smooth flavors of raspberry preserves, coffee grounds and cedar. Some woody notes emerge in the long finish. $20
90 Wolf Blass, 2004 Shiraz
Presidents Selection, South Australia
Smoky aromas with blueberry and cedar box notes. Spicy black cherry flavors with a charred nuance running throughout. Chalky tannins and a lick of Worcestershire sauce join the fruit-driven close. $19
88 Wynns Coonawarra Estate, 2004 Shiraz
Coonawarra
Uplifting aromas of Baker's chocolate and cherry syrup. Peppery black cherry flavors with fine, raspy tannins. Still somewhat youthful and tart, emitting a bit of astringency in the finish. $16
88 Yangarra, 2004 Shiraz
Single Vineyard, McLaren Vale
Pungent, herbaceous aromas of pencil lead and earth place the fruit in the background. Dry, lean, minerally flavors of black fruit, smoke and tar. Dusty finish. $25
85 Nick Faldo, 2003 Shiraz
Coonawarra, South Australia - $15
Other Reds
86 Devil's Lair, 2004 Fifth Leg Red
Western Australia
Pungent, earthy nose with tobacco, tea and orange peel aromas with a whiff of dampness. Minty cherry flavors with crisp acids. Tea and mint linger in the finish. $12
87 Penfolds, 2004 Shiraz Cabernet
Koonunga Hill, South Eastern Australia
Fresh blueberry, vanilla and coconut aromas. Tasty black fruit flavors show spicy, fresh acidity. Dry, dusty close marked by peppery tannins. $12
86 Penfolds, 2004 Cabernet Merlot
Koonunga Hill, South Eastern Australia
Light aromas of cherry, oak and clove. Rather tannic with red fruit flavors battling oak and youthful tannins for attention. Tart, dry finish. $12
87 Penfolds, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
Koonunga Hill, South Eastern Australia
Cherry cola and espresso aromas. Tart cherry and mocha flavors with youthful tannins and crisp acidity capping off the close. $12
86 Rawson's Retreat, 2005 Shiraz Cabernet
South Eastern Australia
Ripe blueberry, mint and plum aromas. Accessible, soft cherry flavors with tannins and oak taking a secondary role. Sweet, enjoyable finish with youthful astringency. $9
85 Rawson's Retreat, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
South Eastern Australia - $9
85 Wynns Coonawarra, 2003 Cab-Shiraz-Merlot
Coonawarra - $16
France
Whites
Alsace
87 Marcel Deiss, 2003 Pinot Blanc
Bergheim, Vin d'Alsace
Ripe, floral aromas of apricot and dried tobacco. Soft, balanced browned apple flavors. Heats up a bit in the tight close. $22
88 Marcel Deiss, 2003 Pinot Gris
Beblenheim, Vin d'Alsace
Floral aromas of orange peel, lime and paraffin. Flavors of orange marmalade and apricot are plusher than the nose. Honeyed finish. $29
90 Marcel Deiss, 2004 Riesling
Beblenheim, Vin d'Alsace
Chalky aromas of lime blossom, honey and minerals. Viscous, mouth-filling flavors of citrus and green apple. Tangy close sports loads of fruit. $25
88 Marcel Deiss, 2003 Gewürztraminer
Bergheim, Vin d'Alsace
Floral scents of lychee, mango and gravel are quite fragrant but not exaggerated as they sometimes are with this varietal. Thick, sweet peach preserve flavors. Alcohol shows up in the finish. $39
89 Marcel Deiss, 2002 Engelgarten
Bergheim, Vin d'Alsace
Expressive aromas of citrus, petrol and gravel. Fresh, though quite tart flavors of lemon and kiwi. Palate-stimulating close. $39
93 Marcel Deiss, 2002 Mambourg
Alsace Grand Cru
Reserved aromas of banana cream, apricot, yellow flowers and bacon fat. Balanced, lush, ripe flavors of white peach, lime peel and bacon fat. Long, layered close concludes on a peppery note. $99
94 Marcel Deiss, 2002 Altenberg de Bergheim
Alsace Grand Cru
Forward, inviting aromas of apricot, tangerine, lime blossom and paraffin. Sweet, chewy, tingly flavors of peach preserves, pineapple and tobacco show beautiful balance. Lingering, fruit-strewn finish. $99
94 Marcel Deiss, 2002 Schoenenbourg
Alsace Grand Cru
Intensely perfumed aromas of lime blossom, orange peel, minerals and black tea. Juicy, deftly balanced flavors of sweet citrus and wood spice. Lusciously ripe close finishes up quite dry. $99
92 Marcel Deiss, 2002 Burg
Bergheim, Vin d'Alsace
Big aromas of green pineapple, lemon, butter, tobacco and oak char. Layered flavors of apricot pit and orange marmalade start sweet but dry out nicely in the soft, seamless finish. $52
Burgundy
87 Chanson, 2004 Mâcon-Villages
Mâcon-Villages
Scents of brown apple, lemon peel and caramel. Surprisingly oily baked apple flavors conclude on a green apple note. Tart finish. $20
88 Chanson, 2004 Viré-Clessé
Viré-Clessé
Clean aromas of apple and wet slate with pretty floral notes. Fresh flavors of apple, citrus and hay. Even mix of minerals and fruit in the close. $22
88 Chanson, 2004 Les Caradeux
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru
Ripe aromas of lemon, peach skin and butter. Flavors of lemon-lime and minerals are leaner than suggested by the big nose. Tart, tangy finish. $37
90 Chanson, 2004 Hauts Marconnets
Savigny Premier Cru
Lithely delivered scents of lime peel, dusty slate and straw. Juicy, though not overdone flavors of buttered apple and toffee. Lingering close brings the wine up a notch. $38
91 Chanson, 2004 Perrières
Meursault Premier Cru
Deftly focused aromas of apricot, white flowers and chalk. Youthfully exuberant flavors of lemon, minerals, butter and wood spice. Citrus peel marks the clean-as-a-whistle finish. $44
90 Chanson, 2004 Chassagne-Montrachet
Chassagne-Montrachet
Compact, well-defined aromas of lime peel, peach, yellow flowers and hazelnut. Lively, mouthwatering flavors of lightly buttered stone fruit have a citrus zing. Finishes with a lemon-lime kick. $45
90 Chanson, 2004 Puligny-Montrachet
Puligny-Montrachet
Shy scents of lime blossom, wet stone and straw. A tight package of sprightly lemon and mineral flavors with a bare suggestion of oak. Quite tasty, lemony close. $49
93 Chanson, 2004 Clos Saint Jean
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru
A faint flint note leads to aromas of sliced pear, orange peel and tobacco. Currently lean flavors of pineapple and tart mango show hints of the lusciousness to come in time. Lots of citrus and a smoke note round out the finish. $80
94 Chanson, 2004 Clos des Mouches
Beaune Premier Cru
Fragrant, well-integrated aromas of ripe apricot, butterscotch and minerals are classic Burgundy. Pure, balanced flavors of stone fruit and bee pollen have a pineapple tartness; time should allow the flavors to develop nicely. A shot of grapefruit freshens the finish. $88
87 JJ Vincent, 2005 Chardonnay
Bourgogne Blanc
Fresh scents of sliced green apple and minerals. Flavors of apple and honeydew melon show good weight and balance. Sweet-tart close. $14
91 Louis Jadot, 2003 Charmes
Meursault-Charmes Premier Cru
Floral, lemony scents of pineapple, orange and coconut with a stony minerality to keep it in balance. Lightly buttery flavors of orange peel, pineapple and brown sugar are rich but not overly opulent. Oak spice appears in the creamy finish. $75
91 Louis Jadot, 2003 Clos de la Garenne
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru
Reserved aromas of lemon, apricot, banana, bee pollen and yellow flowers. Lush, buttery flavors of baked apple, peach and honey are big but not fat. Supple, seamless close. $80
93 Louis Jadot, 2003 Les Folatières
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru
Lime peel and slate notes yield to buttery aromas of peach blossom, baked apple, caramel and butterscotch. Creamy flavors of pineapple, lemon curd and oak spice are soft and expressive without showing any flab. Lemon candy and butterscotch round out the finish. $80
94 Louis Jadot, 2003 Corton-Charlemagne
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Nose of lime, apricot, yellow flowers, tobacco and butterscotch is all about nuance. Direct flavors of mango, banana and butter are seamlessly integrated. Trails of apple, honey and toffee notes extend the close. $140
95 Louis Jadot, 2003 Bâtard-Montrachet
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Very fragrant aromas of ripe apple, lime jelly, honey, hazelnut, nougat and cinnamon. Plush, exotic flavors of orange marmalade, peach preserves, oak spice and brown butter. Long, ethereal finish. $230
87 Louis Jadot, 2004 Mâcon-Lugny
Mâcon-Lugny
Direct, refreshing scents of ripe pear and minerals. Clean flavors of apple and lime blossom. Tart close continues the racy theme. $15
87 Louis Jadot, 2005 Chardonnay
Mâcon
Perfumed scents of pineapple and sweet butter. Gravelly flavors of apple and hay are foursquare if simple. Becomes quite dry in the close. $17
88 Louis Jadot, 2005 Chardonnay
Mâcon-Villages
Bright aromas of honeydew melon, kiwi and wet slate. Very soft and seamless green apple flavors yield to slow-to-emerge peach notes. An herbal nuance picks up the finish. $14
88 Louis Jadot, 2004 Château des Jacques
Beaujolais-Villages Blanc
Layered aromas of stone fruit, butter and vanilla frosting. Supple, chewy, ripe apple flavors with a note of bacon fat. Long close. $17
89 Louis Jadot, 2005 Pouilly-Fuissé
Pouilly-Fuissé
Aromas of baked apple, lime candy, apricot and oak char are recognizably Pouilly-Fuissé. Amply wooded flavors of green apple and butter. Dry, citrusy finish. $26
88 Louis Jadot, 2004 Chablis
Chablis
Classic Chablis "dampness" evolves into aromas of apple, mango and wet stone. Lean, dry, citrusy flavors of lime and chalk. Tooth-clenching close. $25
91 Louis Jadot, 2003 Meursault
Meursault
Round, nutty aromas of honeydew melon and minerals. Full-bodied flavors of apple, hazelnut and brown butter are kept lively by citrusy acidity. Clean finish concludes on a tasty bitter almond note. $40
92 Louis Jadot, 2003 Chassagne-Montrachet
Chassagne-Montrachet
Ripe, enveloping aromas of banana, butterscotch and oak spice. Rich, lemony-fresh flavors of pineapple, peach and butterscotch candy show enviable balance and control. Long, supple close. $42
93 Louis Jadot, 2003 Clos des Guettes
Savigny-lés-Beaune Premier Cru
Buttery aromas of pineapple, caramel and white flowers are nonetheless bracingly fresh. Intense, balanced flavors of apricot, sweet butter and marzipan. Lingering close highlighted by continued marzipan notes. $35
88 Olivier Leflaive, 2005 Chardonnay
Les Sétilles, Bourgogne Blanc
Classic Chardonnay nose of stone fruit and oak spice. Lean, minerally flavors of ripe lemon and lots of damp stone. Palate-freshening finish. $17
Loire 88 Baumard, 2004 Savennières
Savennières
Lean, racy aromas of green citrus and chalk. Lime and mineral flavors are steely, but have a surprisingly soft texture. Lasting, citrusy close. $22
90 Baumard, 2004 Clos du Papillon
Savennières
Restrained scents of grapefruit, lime blossom and minerals. Clean, though youthful flavors of citrus and minerals have a laser-like focus. Grapefruit and cedar spice up the finish. $32
90 Baumard, 2004 Carte d'Or
Coteaux du Layon
Spicy aromas of buttered apple, tobacco and cedar. Sweet flavors of pear, apricot and dried tobacco sport good acidity and excellent balance for a sticky at this price point. Long close has a grapefruit freshness. $22
92 Baumard, 2004 Cuvée Le Paon
Coteaux du Layon
Fragrant aromas of grapefruit peel and lime with a note of apricot syrup being the only hint that this is a sweet wine. Quite sweet flavors of lime, stone fruit and verbena have a palate-soothing texture. Long, seamless finish. $38
96 Baumard, 2004 Quarts de Chaume
Quarts de Chaume
Delicate, pretty aromas of lime peel, stone fruit, white flowers and bee pollen. Unctuously delicious, but not cloying and overdone flavors of apricot preserves, citrus, honey, wet stone and tobacco. Impossibly long, honeyed close. $65
92 Ch. de la Roche-aux-Moines, 2004 Clos Sacrés
Savennières
Direct aromas of roasted apricot, honey, cedar and crème brûlée. Bright, almost searing flavors of orange peel and dried tobacco are classic young Chenin. Spicy, tingly finish. $31
93 Ch. de la Roche-aux-Moines, 2004 Bergerie
Savennières-Roche-aux-Moines
Warm aromas of grilled apricot, cedar, vanilla custard, tobacco and clove honey. Oily, quite spicy flavors of orange preserves, peach, nutmeg and black tea. Very citrusy close. $45
94 Nicolas Joly, 2004 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant
Savennières-Coulée de Serrant
Reserved aromas of pineapple, butterscotch and cedar with a lightening vanilla note. Plush and quite racy flavors of baked apple, macerated apricot and lots of honey. Very long finish concludes on a palate-friendly sweet note. $84
Rhône
87 Guigal, 2004 Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc
Côtes-du-Rhône
Fresh scents of lime blossom and apricot. Warm flavors of pear, peach and yellow flowers. Nutty notes dress up the finish. $12
88 Guigal, 2005 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc
Crozes-Hermitage
Aromas of pineapple, pear, nuts and yellow flowers. Continued floral and nutty notes lift flavors of peach and honeydew melon. Dries up a bit in the close. $20
89 Guigal, 2004 Saint-Joseph Blanc
Saint-Joseph
Subtle, nuanced aromas of orange blossom, just-sliced pear and dried tobacco. Flavors of honeydew melon and wet stone are quite viscous and dry. Flowers and spice in the finish. $27
93 Guigal, 2005 Condrieu
Condrieu
Very fragrant, floral and spicy aromas of peach preserves, cinnamon, cedar and butter. Thick, quite lively flavors of peach, citrus and tobacco. A cleansing, nutty bitterness in the close. $50
95 Guigal, 2003 Hermitage Blanc
Hermitage
Ripe, succulent aromas of orange marmalade, banana and butterscotch. Layered flavors of apricot, honey, hazelnut and tobacco are quite nervy for all their unctuousness. Long, tropical fruit-soaked finish. $50
95 Guigal, 2005 La Doriane
Condrieu
Youthfully restrained aromas of honeydew melon, yellow flowers, cedar and tobacco are underpinned by a surprising citrus quality. Rich flavors of apple, tea, clove honey and hazelnut - though the expected plumpness is not yet there. Very spicy close shows dried tobacco. $90
Reds
Burgundy
87 Chanson, 2004 Pinot Noir
Bourgogne Rouge
Lots of warm, leafy red fruit aromas. Clean flavors of strawberry and cedar show pleasant Pinot attributes. Dry close. $22
88 Chanson, 2004 Gevrey-Chambertin
Gevrey-Chambertin
Floral aromas of red cherry, licorice and oak char. Well-defined flavors of raspberry and forest floor with a tar note. Cherry sweetens the finish. $45
90 Chanson, 2002 Dominode
Savigny Premier Cru
Deep, pungent, meaty aromas of plum, licorice and earth. Toothsome flavors of cherry skin, anise and black pepper have laser-like acidity. Tightens up a bit in the close. $40
94 Chanson, 2002 Clos des Mouches
Beaune Premier Cru
Delicate, smoky scents of strawberry preserves, grill pan, black pepper and bacon fat; an intriguing combination of muscle and grace. Sweet, plush flavors of cherry, cedar and moist tobacco. Long, sweet finish concludes with a peppery jolt. $69
89 Chanson, 2003 Nuits-Saint-Georges
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Warm, woody aromas of plum, pencil and licorice. Flavors of red cherry and oak char are fruitier than suggested by the nose. More red fruit emerges in the close. $89
93 Chanson, 2003 Les Boudots
Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru
A deep core of cherry fruit is enhanced and complemented by aromas of red licorice, rose petals and bacon fat. Readily forthcoming flavors of cherry, strawberry, earth and grilled meat. Finishes with kirsch-like intensity. $89
94 Chanson, 2003 Clos de Vougeot
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Shy aromas of cherry, dried tobacco, cedar shavings and violets. Round, supple flavors of rhubarb, raspberry and warm menthol. Lasting close has the chewiness of licorice. $155
88 Louis Jadot, 2003 Côte de Beaune-Villages
Côte de Beaune-Villages
Warm, fragrant aromas of blackberry and licorice. Well-evolved flavors of cherry and cedar dry up somewhat with air. Palate-cleansing close is a bit astringent. $20
91 Louis Jadot, 2003 La Dominode
Savigny-lés-Beaune Premier Cru
Meaty aromas of black fruit and grill pan with an intriguing lavender note. Soft, pretty flavors of red berries and black tea have a leathery dryness. Long finish. $37
90 Louis Jadot, 2003 Nuits-Saint-Georges
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Muscular aromas of cherry compote, grilled meat and oak char. Compact flavors of strawberry, forest floor and wintergreen. A pleasing sweetness creeps into the close. $40
90 Louis Jadot, 2003 Pernand-Vergelesses
Pernand-Vergelesses
Deep aromas of cranberry and tree bark have a kirsch-like intensity. Flavors of red fruit and dried leaves are softer than suggested by the nose and almost velvety in consistency. Drying finish. $24
89 Louis Jadot, 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin
Gevrey-Chambertin
Subdued scents of strawberry preserves, cigar tobacco and licorice. Concentrated flavors of cherry, cedar and smoke. Robust, though not out of balance, close. $42
91 Louis Jadot, 2003 Epenots
Pommard Premier Cru
Reserved aromas of tobacco and moist herbs with slow-to-show red fruit notes. Soft flavors of cherry compote and minerals are much more forthcoming than suggested by the nose. Wood spices dress up the finish. $58
92 Louis Jadot, 2003 Vosne-Romanée
Vosne-Romanée
Reserved, though complex aromas of rhubarb, licorice and bacon fat with floral notes. Youthful flavors of mixed berries, red beet and brambly cedar. A sweet flourish concludes the supple finish. $45
92 Louis Jadot, 2003 Chambolle-Musigny
Chambolle-Musigny
Gentle aromas of cherry, licorice and tobacco. Intense, minerally, very earthy flavors of strawberry jam and cedar box. Mouth-filling, if dry, close does not lack for fruit. $44
93 Louis Jadot, 2003 Clos des Ursules
Beaune Premier Cru
Aromas of cherry, licorice and earth are roasted and fragrant, but in a meaty way. Mouth-filling, quite-vibrant flavors of plum, dried leaves and smoked meat have a kirsch-like texture. Soft finish notable for its anise notes. $55
95 Louis Jadot, 2003 Corton-Pougets
Corton-Pougets Grand Cru
Spicy, laser-sharp aromas of black cherry, menthol and dust have a kirsch-like intensity. Intense, deftly balanced flavors of cherry, black pepper and cedar have citrusy acidity. Tightens up a bit in the youthful finish. A wine that is enormous and sinuous at the same time. $75
93 Louis Jadot, 2003 Corton-Grèves
Corton-Grèves Grand Cru
Intense, focused aromas of cassis, cherry, dry earth and white flowers are gracefully integrated, ripe, but very much in control. Silky texture and a suggestion of tannin provide a formidable framework for the cherry, cedar, mineral and leather flavors. Soft, supple close marked by fruit notes. $95
94 Louis Jadot, 2003 Clos Vougeot
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Very perfumed, fruity aromas of black cherry, mixed berries and ample brown spice with a distinct bacon fat note. Toothsome, meaty tannins and citrusy acidity frame flavors of black currant, leather and cedar that are tighter in the mouth than suggested by the nose. The finish is dry, though promising of great things in time. $125
Rhône
88 Guigal, 2003 Crozes-Hermitage Rouge
Crozes-Hermitage
Smoky aromas of raspberry preserves and gravel do not obscure the perfumed notes. Direct flavors of red currant, black pepper and earth. Tart finish concludes with brown spice. $22
90 Guigal, 2003 Saint-Joseph Rouge
Saint-Joseph
Pretty scents of cherry and violets. Expressive, spicy flavors of cherry, strawberry and leather have very good balance. Pencil and tobacco mark a close that nonetheless shows good fruit. $29
Italy
Chardonnay
90 Frescobaldi, 2004 Benefizio
Pomino Bianco
Pretty scents of stone fruit, baking spice and honey candy. Balanced flavors of pineapple and orange peel are very ripe without being cloying. Dry, food-friendly finish. $30
91 Sciorio, 2004 Chardonnay
Vigna Levi, Piemonte
Complex aromas of lemon, stone fruit and oak char are nicely put together. Honeyed, very lively flavors of peach pit, lime and paraffin. Long close redolent of cedar box and tobacco. $38
86 Torresella, 2004 Chardonnay
Veneto IGT
Somewhat subdued aromas of white grapefruit and dust. Fresh citrus flavors. A sour note closes out the finish. $15
Pinot Grigio
88 Attems, 2005 Pinot Grigio
Collio
Dusty scents of pear and straw. Very fresh, almost tingly flavors of juicy apple and lemon. Tarts up in the close. $18
86 Campanile, 2005 Pinot Grigio
Grave del Friuli
Aromas of honeydew melon, cedar and mushroom. Squeaky-clean apple flavors have a roundness. Sweetness figures in the finish. $10
87 Danzante, 2004 Pinot Grigio
Venezie IGT
Very fresh sweet apple aromas. Thirst-quenching texture frames flavors of apple and straw. Dries up in the close. $10
87 Castello di Gabbiano, 2005 Pinot Grigio
Venezie IGT
Reserved scents of red apple, lime peel and wet slate. Lemon flavors are sweet-tart and balanced. More lemon perks up the finish. $10
90 Le Vigne di Zamò, 2005 Pinot Grigio
Colli Orientali del Friuli
Substantial, earthy aromas of lime blossom and honeydew melon. Flavors of ripe apple and lemon peel are showcased by the wine's exquisite balance. Close concludes on a tingly note. $18
91 Livio Felluga, 2005 Pinot Grigio
Collio
Beautifully fragrant scents of apple, cantaloupe and dusty gravel. Balanced, substantial flavors of apple and peach with a honey note. Luscious finish ends tartly. $25
88 Santa Margherita, 2005 Pinot Grigio
Alto Adige
Forward aromas of just-sliced pear, fresh herbs and oily minerals. Clean, citrusy and loaded with ripe lemon flavors. Juicy finish. $25
87 Tiziano, 2005 Pinot Grigio
Venezie IGT
Inviting aromas of pear and minerals. Clean, crowd-pleasing flavors of tart apple and citrus. The citrus picks up in the lively close. $10
87 Torresella, 2005 Pinot Grigio
Veneto IGT
Shy nose shows the barest hints of apple and minerals. Flavors of apple and lemon pick up the pace in the mouth. Very citrusy finish. $9
Tocai Friulano
89 Attems, 2004 Tocai Friulano
Collio
Pungent, herbal melon aromas. Forward white peach flavors have good body. Clean-as-a-whistle close is well stocked with fruit. $18
91 Le Vigne di Zamò, 2004 Tocai Friulano
Colli Orientali del Friuli
Very honeyed, very intense aromas of peach pit and apricot preserves. Lively flavors of apple and lime jelly have a cleansing minerality. Concludes on a spicy note. $24
94 Le Vigne di Zamò, 2004 Tocai Friulano
Vigne Cinquant'Anni, Colli Orientali del Friuli
Wonderfully ripe aromas of red apple, honeydew melon, butterscotch and minerals are kept in check by an herbal nuance. Pear and apple flavors have near-perfect balance and are again complemented by a varietal herbal essence. Long finish. $40
91 Livio Felluga, 2005 Tocai Friulano
Colli Orientali del Friuli
Quite perfumed aromas of honeydew melon, dust, anise and light herbs. Zesty flavors of orange marmalade and peach share a lively minerality. Ripe close shows class. $30
Other Whites
89 Attems, 2005 Sauvignon
Collio
Pungent, chalky aromas of lime peel and slate. Exuberant, juicy flavors of red apple and minerals. Sweet close. $18
87 Attems, 2005 Pinot Bianco
Collio
Light scents of green apple and minerals. Good balance marks flavors of sour apple and beeswax. Pear emerges in the finish. $18
87 Baglio di Pianetto, 2004 Viognier
Piana del Ginolfo, Sicilia IGT
Deep aromas of green apple and wood. Balanced flavors of apple and pear have a bee pollen dustiness. Finishes quite tart and tangy. $25
88 Baglio di Pianetto, 2004 Ficiligno
Sicilia IGT
Reserved, though subtly honeyed aromas of dried apricot, dust and tobacco. Oily flavors of lime and gravel. Lip-smacking close. $17
88 Donnafugata, 2005 Anthìlia
Sicilia IGT
Fragrant, perfumed aromas of lime and honey. Well-integrated flavors of peach pit, apple and mandarin orange. East-to-drink finish. $15
91 La Spinetta, 2004 Langhe Bianco
Langhe
Tangy aromas of lime, pineapple and honey are fresh and concentrated. Vivacious, very lemony flavors of citrus and minerals are clean and rich without being overwhelming. Orange blossom notes in the finish. $35
87 Le Vigne di Zamò, 2003 Pinot Bianco
Tullio Zamò, Colli Orientali del Friuli
Reserved scents of waxy apple and honeysuckle. Stone fruit flavors show some intensity and wood notes. Sour apple in the close. $7
92 Le Vigne di Zamò, 2004 Zamò Bianco
Colli Orientali del Friuli
Very shy scents of peach blossom, citrus, beeswax and tea. Wonderfully balanced and mouth-filling flavors of grapefruit and lime. Long, lip-smacking, fruit-filled finish. $35
86 Le Vigne di Zamò, 2004 Malvasia
Colli Orientali del Friuli
Honeyed aromas of candied fruit and mango. Flavors of apple and cedar are leaner than suggested by the nose. Hay notes in the close. $24
90 Livio Felluga, 2005 Sauvignon
Collio
Very varietal aromas of lime peel, wet stone and light capsicum are totally in control. Flavors of ripe citrus and bell pepper exhibit great balance. Juicy apple notes in the flavorful finish. $25
94 Livio Felluga, 2004 Terre Alte
Colli Orientali del Friuli
A quick burst of lime freshness leads to ripe Chardonnay-dominated aromas of pineapple and minerals. Butteriness shows up in the mouth on flavors of apricot and butterscotch; thickens up as it warms but retains a lemony vivacity. Long, tangy close is sweetened up by butterscotch. $45
87 Masi, 2005 Masianco
Venezie IGT
Shy, floral aromas of lime blossom and green melon. Tangy flavors of pineapple and apple. Sweet, citrusy finish. $12
87 Re Manfredi, 2005 Bianco
Basilicata IGT
Vivacious aromas of pear, flowers and paraffin. Flavors of ripe apple and sour orange tend toward tartness. Lively close. $20
87 Vietti, 2005 Moscato d'Asti
Moscato d'Asti
Lovely aromas of freshly sliced pear and zesty minerals. Foamy flavors of sweet apple and peach. Tingly, inviting finish. $13
Amarone & Valpolicella
91 Masi, 2001 Serego Alighieri
Valpolicella Classico Superiore
Very deep aromas of fig, treacle and Worcestershire sauce are intense but not overdone. Luscious flavors of cherry preserves, baking spice and bread dough. Long, beautifully sweet finish. $25
88 Masi, 2001 Costasera
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Quite reserved aromas of dried orange peel, dust and oak spice. Flavors of cherry and brown sugar are more giving than suggested by the nose, though they are far from plush. Tart close. $55
90 Nando, 2000 Amarone
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Piercingly warm aromas of cooked cherry, chocolate and bread dough. Concentrated flavors of sweet cherry, chocolate-covered orange peel and treacle. Continued warmth marks the finish. $41
95 San Rustico, 1999 Gli Occhi Blu di Sabrina
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Warm, nutty aromas of cherries jubilee, baking spice and bread dough. Beautifully balanced, supple flavors of cherry pit, minerals, coffee grounds and Worcestershire sauce sweeten up with air. Long, peppery finish loaded with cherry and citrus. $65
87 Santi, 2003 Solene Ripasso
Valpolicella Classico Superiore
Aromas of earth, wood spice and cedar overshadow the fruit. Lively flavors of tart cherry and minerals are delivered smoothly. Cherry notes continue through the close. $12
88 Tenute Galtarossa, 2003 Corte Colombara
Ripasso, Valpolicella Classico Superiore
Dusty aromas of red currant, dried tobacco and cedar. Flavors of sweet-tart cherry and earth are more generous than the nose. Bright, lip-smacking finish. $25
87 Tenuta Galtarossa, 2001 Amarone
Amarone della Valpolicella
Reserved aromas of black fruit, damp stone and black pepper. Leanish flavors of cherry, pencil lead and minerals. Cedar notes appear in the finish. $57
85 Masi, 2004 Bonacosta
Valpolicella Classico - $10
Other Veneto Reds
87 Masi, 2003 Campofiorin
Ripasso, Veronese IGT
Reserved aromas of cherry, licorice and cedar. Balanced flavors of mixed berries and mint. A tanginess reveals itself in the close. $15
88 Masi, 2003 Brolo di Campofiorin
Veronese IGT
Dusty aromas of dried tobacco and oak char leave the fruit in the background. Balanced, if intense flavors of cherry and minerals. Tobacco notes perk up the finish. $25
Barbera
93 La Spinetta, 2004 Bionzo
Barbera d'Asti Superiore
Shy, brambly aromas of blueberry, milk chocolate and just-brewed espresso. Ripe, velvety, but well-integrated flavors of sweet black currant, chocolate-covered orange peel and earth conclude on a drying note. Minerals and espresso ground the finish. $53
92 La Spinetta, 2004 Gallina
Barbera d'Alba
Reserved aromas of cola nut, dusty slate and tobacco put the fruit in the background at present. Minerally, concentrated and soft flavors of tart raspberry, black coffee and licorice. Closes dry thanks to pencil lead notes. $53
91 Sandrone, 2004 Barbera d'Alba
Barbera d'Alba
Woodsy aromas of pencil, oak char and espresso with black currant notes. Soft, dry flavors of mixed berries, mocha and tobacco are delivered by way of citrusy acidity. Coffee-soaked finish. $31
90 Sciorio, 2003 Vigna Beneficio
Barbera d'Asti Superiore
Deep, earthy scents show an initial gaminess that fades to black currant and violet notes. A nice mouthful of tart, racy mixed berry and orange peel flavors. Long close highlighted by citrus and espresso. $37
89 Vietti, 2004 Tre Vigne
Barbera d'Alba
Initial wood notes lead to subtle aromas of black fruit, dried leaves and dusty slate. Very dry flavors of blackberry, black coffee and earth have a smooth texture. Long, tobacco-laced finish. $20
Barolo & Barbaresco
95 La Spinetta, 2003 Vigneto Starderi
Barbaresco
Initial leafiness yields to hearty aromas of rhubarb, earth, cedar and anise. Wiry, youthful flavors of dried berries, tea and brown spice are vibrant, if in need of lots of air to tame the tongue-tingling tannins and acidity. Cherry preserves lighten the finish. $120
96 La Spinetta, 2003 Vigneto Gallina
Barbaresco
Somewhat shy, slightly floral aromas of cherry pit, dried tobacco and cedar shavings. Silky texture in the face of its obvious youth with flavors of red currant, rose petals and cedar. Well-structured, dry close. $120
92 Poderi Elia, 2001 Serracapelli
Barbaresco
Reserved, pretty scents of dried currant, orange peel, coffee, cedar and violets. Flavors of strawberry, coffee grounds, earth, leather and tar seem more evocative of Barolo than Barbaresco. Tight, dry finish marked by cedary notes. $50
95 Sandrone, 2002 Le Vigne
Barolo
Classic Barolo aromas of dried cherry, licorice and flowers are very inviting and approachable despite the wine's youth. Perfectly balanced flavors of cherry, tar and dusty cedar are a pleasure to drink now. Very long, seamless close. $118
Other Piedmont Reds
91 Gillardi, 2003 Yeta
Langhe
Very reserved aromas of dust, graphite, minerals and reluctant-to-emerge black fruit. Dry, smooth, concentrated flavors of blackberry, espresso bean, black earth and chalk. Tooth-coating close marked by spicy tobacco. $32
95 Gillardi, 2003 Harys
Vino da Tavola
Big, brooding aromas of mulberry, orange peel, licorice, coffee grounds and graphite crave air to free themselves. Intense, though quite lithe flavors of mixed berries, semisweet chocolate and violets need less effort to show themselves than the nose. Impossibly long, berry-spiked finish; keeps improving on all fronts with time in the glass. $68
92 La Spinetta, 2004 Pin
Monferrato Rosso
Wonderfully intense aromas of dried cherry, sweet smoke and cedar are forward, but not clumsily so. Very big flavors of sweet-tart strawberry-raspberry, forest floor and rose petals; quite in control for all its heft. Cedary tannins mark the luscious close. $50
87 Vietti, 2003 Tre Vigne
Dolcetto d'Alba
Warm, woody, grapy mixed berry aromas. Flavors of black fruit, coffee and earth are quite dry and show citrusy acidity. Spicy close. $18
Brunello
89 Angelini, 2001 Val di Suga
Brunello di Montalcino
Initial floral note gives way to aromas of fig, cedar, brown sugar and chocolate. Flavors of strawberry compote and orange peel are sweet and lively. Citrusy close. $53
93 Armilla, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino
Warm aromas of plum, dried tobacco and graphite need lots of air to show themselves. Youthful, tightly packed flavors of ripe black cherry, citrus peel, Worcestershire sauce and rose petals. Intense and agreeable finish. $69
90 Frescobaldi, 2001 Castelgiocondo
Brunello di Montalcino
Beautifully subdued, floral aromas of black fruit, espresso bean and cedar. Pronounced, inky flavors of blackberry, graphite and cigar ash. Long close concludes dryly. $60
89 Il Poggione, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino
Reserved aromas of cherry jam, pine and graphite. Thick flavors of mixed berries, candied fruit and cedar. Lots of brambly fruit fills out the finish. $65
Chianti
87 Angelini, 2004 Sanleonino
Chianti Classico
Pungent aromas of smoke, dried herbs and grill pan. Dry and supple cherry flavors show fruit the nose lacks. Pencil shavings ground the close. $18
89 Castello di Gabbiano, 2003 Riserva
Chianti Classico
Pretty aromas of red cherry, anise and fresh flowers. Approachable flavors of raspberry and tobacco with a hint of mint. Soft finish redolent of spicy fruit. $17
90 Da Vinci, 2002 Riserva
Chianti
Reserved aromas of blackberry, cedar box, smoke and black pepper. Concentrated flavors of black fruit, licorice and espresso bean. Long close notable for oak char notes. $24
87 Da Vinci, 2004 Chianti
Chianti
Brambly, herbal flavors of plum and smoke. Minerally flavors of black fruit, licorice and espresso. Quite earthy close shows admirable balance. $16
87 Danzante, 2004 Chianti
Chianti
Reserved scents of black fruit and forest floor. Dry blackberry flavors are delivered by way of a soft mouth-feel. Cherry appears in the close. $10
91 Frescobaldi, 2003 Vigneto Montesodi
Castello di Nipozzano, Chianti Rufina
Substantial scents of blackberry, minerals and pencil lead. Creamy flavors of ripe plum, treacle and earth have a citrusy acidity that keeps this huge package in complete control. Long finish concludes on a sweet note. $45
90 Frescobaldi, 2003 Nipozzano Riserva
Chianti Rufina
Warm, herbal aromas of cherry, licorice and espresso. Thick, balanced, almost silky flavors of blackberry, cedar and minerals. Smooth close continues the hefty, yet supple theme. $22
87 Gabbiano, 2004 Chianti
Chianti
Perfumed scents of red cherry and dusty stone. Lively flavors of raspberry and cedar sport bright acidity. Easy-to-swallow finish. $10
89 Villa Cerna, 2001 Riserva
Chianti Classico
Formidable aromas of plum, earth and root beer. Plush flavors of blackberry and bittersweet chocolate. Sweetens up somewhat in the pleasing close. $22
Rosso di Montalcino
88 Angelini, 2003 Val di Suga
Rosso di Montalcino
Faint scents of stewed plum, cedar and smoke. Tangy, nicely balanced flavors of strawberry, cedar and cinnamon. Perky, citrusy close. $26
90 Col d'Orcia, 2003 Rosso di Montalcino
Rosso di Montalcino
Reluctant aromas of cherry blossom, wood spice and violets. Flavors of strawberry jam and bittersweet chocolate have very good balance, and gripping, though not painful, tannins. Sweet-tart finish. $46
89 Frescobaldi, 2004 Campo ai Sassi
Castelgiocondo, Rosso di Montalcino
Forward, grapy aromas of plum, smoke and violets. Zesty flavors of blackberry, dried tobacco and cola are totally in control. Toothy close. $20
88 Il Poggione, 2004 Rosso di Montalcino
Rosso di Montalcino
Pretty aromas of raspberry preserves, forest floor and cedar. Juicy, sweet cherry flavors have kirsch-like punch. Jammy, extracted finish. $30
90 Silvio Nardi, 2002 Rosso di Montalcino
Rosso di Montalcino
Restrained scents of rhubarb, campfire and pencil shavings. Lively flavors of strawberry, citrus and mocha show excellent balance. Chocolate and cola notes lift the close. $27
Other Tuscan Reds
87 Angelini, 2003 TreRose
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Somewhat muted, dusty nose doesn't reveal much at present. Nice mix of sweet red berry, cedar and earth flavors. Soft close. $22
86 Angelini, 2005 Tuttobene
Toscana IGT
Pungent, grapy aromas of plum and wood. Zesty, Beaujolais-like flavors of brambly black fruit and violets. Fleeting finish. $11
90 Campo di Sasso, 2005 Insoglio del Cinghiale
Toscana IGT
Cedary scents of dust, gravel and dried tobacco place the fruit in the background. Seamlessly integrated flavors of blackberry and milk chocolate with herb notes emerging with air. Closes with a sweet flourish. $26
93 Casadei, 2003 Sogno Mediterraneo
Toscana IGT
Well-defined, if a bit shy, scents of wet tar and minerals leave the fruit in the background for now. Super-smooth flavors of black cherry liqueur and bittersweet chocolate are rich without being cloying. Luscious, inviting, fruit-filled finish. $35
88 Castello Banfi, 2001 Syrah
Colvecchio, Sant'Antimo
Earthy, peppery aromas of tobacco and dust hide the fruit. Brightens up considerably in the mouth with flavors of cherry, cedar and minerals. Dry, citrusy close. $36
88 Cecchi, 2001 Spargolo
Toscana IGT
Peppery aromas of grill pan and minerals send the fruit to the background. By contrast, the soft cherry and well-seasoned oak flavors are forward and inviting. Velvety finish. $38
88 Enrico Santini, 2004 Poggio al Moro
Bolgheri
Pungent aromas of damp leaves, bacon fat and cedar. Concentrated flavors of blackberry and sweet treacle. Espresso notes dry out the close. $26
92 Frescobaldi, 2004 Tenuta di Castiglioni
Toscana IGT
Concentrated aromas of cassis, black smoke and wood. Plushly fruited flavors of black currant jam, semisweet chocolate and tobacco are framed by citrusy acidity. The finish continues the big-fruit theme. $25
90 Frescobaldi, 2003 Castello di Pomino Rosso
Pomino Rosso
Warm, herbal aromas of eucalyptus and oak shade the fruit. Smooth, well-grounded flavors of cherry, orange peel and espresso. Lingering close laced with sweet-tart red fruit. $25
88 Frescobaldi, 2004 Rèmole
Toscana IGT
Floral aromas of raspberry and dried tobacco. Tight flavors of red berries and mocha are framed by citrusy acidity. Soft, balanced finish. $11
90 Frescobaldi, 2003 Mormoreto
Castello di Nipozzano, Toscana IGT
Deep, smoky aromas of stewed cherry and licorice. Flavors of cherry and minerals are quite earthy and a bit tight but well proportioned. Dries up some in the close. $50
92 La Massa, 2003 Giorgio Primo
Toscana IGT
Intensely pungent aromas of black fruit, oak char and graphite with a lightening violet note. Supple, though quite powerful, flavors of cassis, espresso bean and vanilla. Forceful, flavorful finish remains in control. $76
90 Luce della Vite, 2004 Lucente
Toscana IGT
Reserved scents of black fruit, wood spice and graphite. Adeptly balanced flavors of ripe blackberry and milk chocolate have an earthy framework. Silky finish. $25
92 Ornellaia, 2003 Le Serre Nuove
Bolgheri
Layered aromas of black fruit, cedar shavings, earth and tomato leaf. Very concentrated, very extracted flavors of mixed berries and brown sugar are palate-coating in their intensity. Sweet, lengthy close. $50
88 Ornellaia, 2004 Le Volte
Toscana IGT
Cedary scents of plum and moist tobacco. Polished flavors of blackberry and just-brewed espresso. Lively finish. $25
87 Rocca delle Macie, 2000 Ser Gioveto
Toscana IGT
Mature damp stone and cedar aromas. Balanced flavors of stewed plum and minerals. Lots of wood in the tight close. $42
87 Ruffino, 2003 Il Ducale
Toscana IGT
Aromas of just-picked strawberry and oily minerals are quite earthy. Nicely knit flavors of raspy red fruit and ample wood. Surprisingly soft finish. $20
87 Ruffino, 2001 Lodola Nuova
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Warm aromas of tar, earth and cedar jettison the fruit to the background. Flavors of strawberry and minerals are a bit more fruit forward than the nose, and quite earthy and dry. Food-friendly close. $22
87 Val delle Rose, 2001 Morellino di Scansano
Riserva, Morellino di Scansano
Aromas of date, plum and brown sugar. Agreeable flavors of sugared plum, maple and sweetened coffee. Spicy finish. $16
Merlot
90 Castello Banfi, 2002 Merlot
Mandrielle, Sant'Antimo
Reserved scents of mixed berries and smoke. Flavors of tart cherry, espresso and violets are much more forthcoming than the nose lets on. Very ripe, supple close. $35
92 Le Vigne di Zamò, 2003 Merlot
Colli Orientali del Friuli
Quite shy aromas of cherry blossom, spice box and leather. Round, ripe flavors of cherry, espresso and earth. Fresh, juicy finish shows the best of the varietal. $24
90 Livio Felluga, 2003 Merlot
Colli Orientali del Friuli
Subtle scents of black currant, oak char and rose petals. Vibrant flavors of blackberry, citrus and ample minerals. Dried cherry gives the close some elegance. $25
88 Tenuta Santa Maria, 2000 Merlot
Decima Aurea, Veneto IGT
Mature, woody fig scents. Surprisingly plush and ripe in the mouth with flavors of black currant and baking spice. Long finish. $45
86 Torresella, 2003 Merlot
Veneto IGT
Minty scents of black cherry and cedar. Flavors of red berries and earth are quite tart. A metallic note mars the close. $17
91 Vistorta, 2002 Merlot
Grave del Friuli
Deep, smoky aromas of brambly berries, grilled meat and lavender. Round, lively flavors of bright raspberry and slate. Tannins present themselves in the forceful finish. $22
Other Italian Reds
91 Ca' del Bosco, 1999 Carmenero
Vino da Tavola
Very peppery, very herbaceous aromas of bramble and dried leaves bury the fruit. Lush and quite peppery flavors of plum compote, blackberry and spicy licorice. Tingly finish. $150
91 Cantine Mucci, 2003 Cantico
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Deep, resinous aromas of blackberry, licorice and oak char. Lively, supple flavors of blackberry and espresso. Concludes favorably on a vanilla note. $35
87 Donnafugata, 2003 Nero d'Avola
Sedàra, Sicilia IGT
Perfumed scents of blackberry and black pepper are a bit shy. Earthy flavors of blueberry, chalk and cola. Sweet-tart finish. $15
90 Foradori, 2003 Teroldego Rotaliano
Teroldego Rotaliano
Earthy, substantial aromas of mixed berries, cured ham and fresh red meat. Concentrated flavors of blackberry, orange peel, black tea and earth. Citrus notes in the finish. $23
91 Foradori, 2002 Granato
Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
Graphite scents jump from the glass, then yield to blackberry, damp slate and pipe tobacco aromas. Inky, concentrated flavors of tart berries, minerals and rose petals. Earthy, distinctive close. $59
90 Josef Niedermayr, 2002 Euforius
Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
Leafy aromas of plum, gravel, dust and anise. Lively, if somewhat tight flavors of cherry-berry fruit, orange and cedar. Long close highlighted by espresso and minerals. $35
93 Josef Niedermayr, 2002 Lagrein aus Gries
Riserva, Südtiroler
Warm scents of espresso bean, black pepper and tobacco with blackberry notes lurking in the background. Inky, minerally, concentrated flavors of plum, spicy cedar and dried herbs. Long, gravelly finish steeped in black tea. $40
92 Josephus Mayr, 2003 Composition Reif
Vino da Tavola
Herbal scents of black pepper, earth and dusty minerals leave the fruit notes in the background. Dense flavors of black fruit, smoked meat, licorice, minerals and black pepper. Improbably silky finish for all its earthiness. $60
91 Josephus Mayr, 2003 Lagrein
Riserva, Südtiroler
Pungent, peppery aromas of earth, pencil and rose petals push the fruit to the background. Soft, forthcoming flavors of plum, mocha, graphite and violets freshened by citrusy acidity. Coffee and earth in the close. $55
92 Josephus Mayr, 2003 Cabernet
Riserva, Südtiroler
Peppery, herbal, varietally true aromas of red currant and pretty violets. Dry, intense flavors of plum, earth and graphite. Tart, tight finish shows the wine's foursquare structure. $60
87 Le Vigne di Zamò, 2004 Zamò Rosso
Colli Orientali del Friuli
Warm, minty aromas of rhubarb and cigar tobacco. Peppery flavors of mixed berries and orange. Grilled meat notes in the close. $17
90 Le Vigne di Zamò, 2003 Schiopettino
Colli Orientali del Friuli
Fragrant, focused aromas of cassis, black pepper and spicy tomato leaf. Smooth, though quite intense flavors of rhubarb, licorice and black coffee. Lingering, very tangy finish. $49
88 Lungarotti, 2002 Rubesco
Rosso di Torgiano
Fresh aromas of strawberry, brown spice and cedar. Balanced raspberry flavors manage to be both lively and plush. Clean close. $20
91 Lungarotti, 2000 San Giorgio
Umbria IGT
Pungent aromas of black fruit, grill pan and black pepper. Citrusy acidity livens flavors of cherry, blackberry, violets and earth. Fruit and spice in the finish. $74
89 Re Manfredi, 2000 Aglianico del Vulture
Aglianico del Vulture
Varietal aromas of brambly red fruit, licorice, cedar and wood spice. Racy flavors of red berries, black tea and leather sport lots of acidity. Tightens up a bit in the close. $33
88 Tenuta Giuncheo, 2003 Pian del Vescovo
Rossese di Dolceacqua
Aromas of fig, brown sugar, tar and oak char. Balanced flavors of plum and smoke with a vanillin note that lightens an otherwise serious, austere wine. Cedar shows in the finish. $35
86 Tenuta Rapitalà, 2002 Solinero
Sicilia IGT
Cedary, herbal aromas of date and black earth. Balanced flavors of tart berries and mocha. Lean close. $48
88 Tenuta Rapitalà, 2002 Hugonis
Sicilia IGT
Perfumed aromas of black fruit, gravel and graphite. Adeptly balanced flavors of blackberry, dust and mocha. Chocolate spices up the finish. $42
Tutored Tastings
Vino Nobile & Brunello
The wines that follow were reviewed by Contributing Editor Kerin O'Keefe in Tuscany with the producers during the annual press tastings organized by the consortiums. They were not tasted blind. 92 Angelini, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino
Solid garnet. Rich berry aromas with whiffs of earth and vanilla. Luscious cherry-berry flavors with fresh acidity and youthful tannins. Earthy, floral close. $53
91 Angelini, 2003 Tenuta TreRose
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Dark ruby hue. Floral nose with hints of chocolate and cherry. Succulent cherry flavors with notes of vanilla and leather. Long berry close. $22
95 Biondi Santi, 2001 Tenuta Greppo
Brunello di Montalcino
Intense ruby hue. Alluring floral aromas of violets and roses with a delicate hint of vanilla. Bright berry flavors with a lingering finish of rich cherry and notes of sweet pipe tobacco. Hallmark Brunello - elegant and beautifully balanced. While enjoyable now, it will age gracefully for decades. $130
88 Capanna, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino
Dense garnet. Appealing floral nose reveals classic aromas of violets and dark cherry. Lush berry flavors with hints of earth and spice. Brisk, dry finish. $48
89 Caparzo, Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino
Dark ruby. Earthy scents of vanilla, black fruit and spice. Mouthwatering raspberry and cherry flavors with good acid balance. Dry, tannic finish. $51
89 Col d'Orcia, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino
Deep garnet color. Over-ripe aromas of plum and black cherry. Lush berry and black fruit flavors with a hint of oak and firm tannins. Smooth licorice finish. $46
89 Colle, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino
Dark garnet color. Enticing floral nose with red and black berry nuances. Hot cherry flavors with bold tannins and bright acidity. Warm, dry finish. $50
88 Contucci, 2003 Vino Nobile
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Dark ruby color. Delicate aromas of flowers and berries. Good cherry-berry flavors balanced with firm tannins. Dry, minerally finish. $24
90 Dei, 2003 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Deep ruby hue. Rich cherry aromas with floral nuances. Bright cherry flavors with aggressive tannins and a spicy finish. Austere and tight; best after five years. $27
94 Dei, 2001 Riserva Bossona
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Dark ruby color with bright garnet reflections. Enticing nose of violets and berries. Concentrated plum and berry flavors elegantly balanced by bright acidity and bracing tannins. Long, sweet cherry finish with a hint of vanillin. $40
90 Godiolo, 2001 Riserva
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Dark garnet hue. Floral nose of violets and roses. Bright cherry palate balanced by earthy notes. Strong, but evolved tannins lead to a lingering spice close. $37
90 Il Marroneto, 2001 Madonna delle Grazie
Brunello di Montalcino
Dark ruby color. Tight aromas of crushed cherry and earth. Austere, with lean berry flavors and a long, spicy, tannic finish. Classic Brunello in the making; best in five to ten years. $85
92 Lisini, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino
Dense garnet color. Complex floral aromas with earthy undertones. Full bodied with lush berry flavors and a black pepper note. Firm, but supple tannins offer grace and power. Lingering earthy and berry finish. $67
88 Tenuta La Fuga, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino
Dark crimson hue. Tight aromas of flowers and cherry with herbal notes. Lovely cherry and mineral palate with a dry, tannic finish. Best in three to five years. $56
Joseph Drouhin
The wines that follow were tasted by BuyLine panelists Abe Horowitz and Lyn Farmer at a tasting led by Robert and Véronique Drouhin on March 17 at Duo Restaurant in Miami. They were not tasted blind. 90 Clos des Mouches 2004 Blanc
Beaune Premier Cru
Pale straw hue. Intense aromas of white peach, lemon cream and minerals with hints of smoke and oak. Juicy white peach flavors. Creamy acidity with notes of lemon and toast in the lingering close. $70
92 Clos des Mouches 2002 Blanc
Beaune Premier Cru
Pale green-gold hue. Complex scents of pineapple, minerals and paraffin. Viscous and oily mouth-feel, with silky acidity and juicy flavors of pear and white peach. Hints of smoke, hazelnut and clover honey in the ripe close. $91
93 Clos des Mouches 2000 Blanc
Beaune Premier Cru
Light gold hue. Exotic aromas of honey, marzipan and peach. Velvety acidity and creamy flavors of lemon curd and pineapple. Continued minerality in the honey- and flint-driven close. $80
92 Clos des Mouches 1999 Blanc
Beaune Premier Cru
Gold hue. Intense aromas of paraffin and honey. Vibrant acidity wraps elegant flavors of lemon cream and white peach. Notes of lemon and brown spice in the lingering close. $88
94 Clos des Mouches 1992 Blanc
Beaune Premier Cru
Deep gold hue. Intense aromas of clover honey and apricot with secondary notes of gun smoke and white truffle. Juicy flavors of pear and white peach. A touch of Fino Sherry adds to the almond paste and peach impressions in the ethereal close. $N/A
92 Clos des Mouches 2003 Rouge
Beaune Premier Cru
Vibrant purple hue. Intense aromas of black cherry, vanilla, brown spice and toasted oak. Jammy flavors of wild cherry and blackberry. Powerful tannins and lingering impressions of raspberry and leather in the close. $76
90 Clos des Mouches 2002 Rouge
Beaune Premier Cru
Dense garnet hue. Reserved aromas of wild cherry and allspice. Juicy flavors of raspberry and wild cherry. Racy acidity and hints of leather and tar in the raspberry-driven close. $78
88 Clos des Mouches 1999 Rouge
Beaune Premier Cru
Dense garnet hue with a feathered edge. Mature scents of stewed plum, minerals and animal fur. Juicy flavors of wild cherry and red plum. Tobacco impressions in the close. $93
94 Clos des Mouches 1990 Rouge
Beaune Premier Cru
Ruby hue with a brickish rim. Exotic scents of allspice, mace, rose and wild cherry. Exhibiting perfect balance with velvety tannins and juicy flavors of raspberry, tobacco and tar. Lingering notes of raspberry and clove in the endless finish. $152
90 Clos des Mouches 1985 Rouge
Beaune Premier Cru
Pale ruby-brown hue. Exotic aromas of soy, leather and tar with a hint of stewed plum. Elegant flavors of wild cherry and cranberry. Lacy tannins and hints of brown sugar and cherry in the wispy close. $N/A
88 Clos des Mouches 1976 Rouge
Beaune Premier Cru
Dense brown hue. Pungent scents of Worcestershire sauce and mushroom. Ephemeral tannins frame flavors of cherry and tea. Hints of orange pekoe tea in the elegant close. $181
Penfolds
The wines that follow were tasted by the BuyLine panel with Penfolds chief winemaker, Peter Gago, on June 12, at Max's Grille in Miami. They were not tasted blind. 89 Penfolds, 2003 Chardonnay
Yattarna
Yellow-green hue. Pretty buttered toast, biscuit and grain aromas. Soft and supple entry with a light toasty note that accompanies lemon flavors. Sweet-tart grapefruit with hints of spice on the close. $65
85 Penfolds, 2004 Bin 2 Shiraz
South Australia
Deep reddish-purple hue. Big extraction of color. Pretty plum and tobacco scents. Soft palate feel on entry with melded flavors of rhubarb and plum. Soft close with a hint of spicy earth. $15
88 Penfolds, 2004 Bin 138
Old Vines, Barossa Valley
Deep purple hue; big extraction. Black cherry nose opens with time and shows briary notes. Soft, blended and Rhône-like with good integration of tannins and cherry fruit. Slightly hot close with continued spicy earth and leather accents. $22
90 Penfolds, 2003 Bin 128 Shiraz
Coonawarra
Deep crimson hue. Pretty bouquet of violets, mocha and blueberry. Clean entry of plum and dusty cedar tannins meld perfectly with the backing acids. Tart plum and mocha notes in the spicy finish. $22
97 Penfolds, 2001 Grange
South Australia
Dense, inky purple hue. Pretty bouquet of polished oak, maple and boysenberry. Soft, silky palate impressions with layers of velvety black cherry and vanilla flavors and seamlessly integrated tannins. Tart, spicy close shows tannin; but complex leather notes conclude with a silkiness. $225
About the BuyLine Panel: More than 100 wines are reviewed in every issue of Wine News. All wines are tasted double-blind and each entry is evaluated and scored based upon individual merit. Wines that score above 70 points are recommended in the BuyLine. Tasting and interpreting wine is a purely subjective exercise; all scores and accompanying tasting notes represent the collective opinions of our panel.
Wine Samples: Send samples for review with retail price affixed to:
Wine News BuyLine Tasting Panel
1501 Venera Avenue, Suite 320
Coral Gables, FL 33146
Telephone: 305.740.7170
The Panel: Lyn Farmer, senior staff columnist; Abraham Horowitz, BuyLine panelist; Tom E. Smith, publisher; John Stroker, BuyLine panelist; Fred Tasker, Miami Herald wine critic; Todd M. Wernstrom, executive editor.
Scoring: Tasting notes reflect the panel's collective impressions; scores are averaged and represent the panel's mean. Wines possessing certain criteria will be singled out for special recognition:
Taster's Choice: Wines which display outstanding quality, character and potential.
Best Value Wines of exceptional quality which sell at a moderate price.
Stemware: Riedel Ouverture tasting glasses.
Pricing: Prices vary from state to state. Retail prices listed are approximate.
