This view toward the town of Barbaresco gives some sense of vine aspect, a landscape feature that shapes the resultant wines.
Photo: PAOLO TENTI
Barbaresco breaks rankBy Kerin O'KeefeLong known as the "King of Wines and the Wine of Kings," Barolo's widespread recognition and larger output has, until recently, kept the more genteel Barbaresco in its long shadow. While Barolo is often the sole protagonist of Italian wine articles, Barbaresco is invariably referred to only in conjunction with it, rarely receiving the attention it deserves. Yet Barbaresco is more than a second-best wine; rather, it has very much evolved into a great wine in its own right.
Setbacks that could have seriously hampered other appellations have instead elevated Barbaresco. Case in point: One of the first denominations to be sharply divided by the two schools of winemaking, often oversimplified as Modernists vs. Traditionalists, Barbaresco has come away from the conflict a better wine, thanks to the careful vineyard and vinification practices embraced by both sides. And when one of Italy's most illustrious winemakers declassified his celebrated single vineyard Barbarescos, rather than there being a devastating mass exodus following on his tails as predicted, producers instead stood firm and fought to maintain the wine's typicity, giving Barbaresco a sense of identity that still allows the area's varied and exceptional terroirs to shine through. No longer the younger sibling with something to prove, Barbaresco has quietly, but resolutely ascended to share the throne once occupied exclusively by Barolo.
Comparisons between Barolo and Barbaresco are unavoidable because they are both made from 100 percent nebbiolo and their respective growing areas lie not only in the same northwestern region of Piedmont, but on either side of the same town in a hilly area known as the Langhe. The small Barbaresco appellation, named after the sleepy village where the wine originated, radiates to the north and east of Alba and covers the communes or towns of Barbaresco, Neive, Treiso and a sliver of San Rocco Seno d'Elvio for a total of 1,692 acres registered to it. Beginning just a few miles southwest of Alba, Barolo's much larger and slightly higher growing appellation includes eleven communes centering around the eponymous village, and dedicates 4,332 acres of nebbiolo to Barolo. Barbaresco's significantly smaller annual production of potentially 308,000 cases as calculated for the 2005 vintage as compared to Barolo's 875,000 cases, is one of the major reasons why Barbaresco is less well known, especially in newer export markets.
While most producers in both appellations are third- or fourth-generation farmers who were born there - unlike in Tuscany where many wealthy outsiders have come to make wine - Barbaresco is dominated by a number of small growers turned winemakers whose tiny outputs can make it difficult to find a bottle abroad. Barolo, on the other hand, boasts several large firms with massive production that are readily available internationally.
If Barolo, as we know it today, was created sometime between the early and mid-1800s by the French enologist Louis Oudart (the first to vinify nebbiolo into a dry wine from its former sweet version), Barbaresco by contrast has a precisely documented birth year. In the 1890s, Domizio Cavazza, the founder and director of Alba's enological school who strongly believed in Barbaresco's tremendous potential as a winemaking zone, unified local growers and created the Cantine Sociali di Barbaresco. In 1894, they released the first wine to be called Barbaresco.
After a propitious beginning, Barbaresco soon fell on hard times. Cavazza died in 1912, and then there was a period of intense poverty throughout rural Italy in the aftermath of the World War I. Without Cavazza's leadership, the original Cantine Sociali closed in 1922 under pressure from the newly instated Fascist regime, which encouraged farmers and grape growers alike to focus on cultivating grain and raising livestock in order to avoid importing staple foods. These difficult years impeded Barbaresco's fledgling wine scene, and all but a few growers abandoned winemaking; yet Barolo suffered far less, having an already-established reputation and a patronage that included the House of Savoy, Italian diplomats and a new class of entrepreneurs.
It would not be until the late 1950s and early 1960s that Barbaresco would stir to life again, largely because of a new generation of dynamic winemakers, including Angelo Gaja and Bruno Giacosa, as well as the Produttori del Barbaresco, a cooperative cellar. Founded in 1958 by the local parish priest, Don Fiorino Marengo, this co-op - widely considered the best in the whole of Italy and among the world's most respected in that category - resuscitated Cavazza's vision of uniting local growers to make outstanding Nebbiolo on par with its more famous neighbor. These efforts paid off and Barbaresco was included, along with Barolo, Brunello and Chianti, in the first tier of appellations to be regulated under Italy's DOC system in 1966; it was elevated to DOCG status in 1980.
Although Piedmont's dynamic duo undeniably share many traits - it can be argued that the more delicate Barolos from La Morra have a structure similar to the hearty Barbarescos from Neive - there are clear distinctions between the two wines. Often described as more feminine because it has less of the brute tannic force that fuels an archetypal Barolo, Barbaresco's production code obligingly calls for two years aging, at least one of which must be spent in wood before release, and requires a minimum alcohol level of 12.5 percent. Taming Barolo's generally harsher tannins and bigger structure, which clocks in at a minimum of 13 percent alcohol, requires three years aging, two of which must be spent in wood.
These differences in both structure and regimen do not mean, however, that "light" is an appropriate descriptor for Barbaresco. According to Aldo Vacca, director of Produttori del Barbaresco, "Overall, both are complex wines with full-bodied, tannic structures that permit long cellaring, but Barbaresco is more elegant, less austere and is more approachable younger. It is also more flexible with meals, even pasta and risotto, as well as chicken and red meat. Barolo on the other hand, tends to pair better only with more demanding dishes." Vacca should know; his firm's traditionally styled, single vineyard riservas represent some of the greatest values in the entire DOCG. Moreover, Barbaresco is usually able to retain more freshness than Barolo in hot years, though it should be noted that in the extraordinarily torrid and dry 2003 (the latest vintage released), many Barbarescos suffer from excessive alcohol and are less refreshing than usual. The best producers, however, were able to minimize the negative effects of the weather by judiciously not pruning leaves needed to shade the grapes and by shortening hang time.
Microclimate and terrain contribute greatly to the wine's more refined characteristics. "The Barbaresco production zone is wide open to influences of the Tanaro river and valley, giving us hotter morning temperatures, more breezes and more humidity than the Barolo zone, which is blocked from the Tanaro by the ridge of La Morra," explains Vacca, who is also the Barbaresco technical advisor for the Langhe and Roero Growers Union. This means that grapes are picked at least one week earlier in Barbaresco and tend to mature with greater regularity. Equally crucial in achieving Barbaresco's graceful demeanor is the soil factor. Although soils for both of Piedmont's flagship wines are predominantly calcareous marls - the main element responsible for the wines' tannic structures - Barbaresco's soil is somewhat richer and possesses a higher percentage of sand in many of its most celebrated vineyards. "Barbaresco's soil is also deeply influenced by its proximity to the river and valley floor," Vacca observes. "The river valley is very fertile, and over the years, its abundant nutrients, such as potassium and phosphorous, have been transported to the vineyards by flooding or intense rain," he explains. This beneficial infusion leads to more plant vigor, which, in turn, promotes Barbaresco's comparatively delicate structure.
Dominated by its monolithic medieval tower, the village of Barbaresco is the heart of the area's production, boasting more than half the registered vineyards for its namesake wine and most of its best crus or vineyards, such as Asili, Rabajá, Roncaglie and Martinenga. The Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco in the center of town sells nearly all of the appellation's labels and is located in a former church, aptly demonstrating the wine's importance to locals. Barbaresco is also home to Angelo Gaja, one of Italy's most flamboyant and successful winemakers. He is credited not only with drawing Barbaresco out of obscurity, but with triggering the quality revolution that pulled the country's wine industry out of the doldrums. A marketing genius as well as an astute wine producer, Gaja's pioneering single vineyard bottlings, such as Sorì San Lorenzo and Sorì Tildin (sorì means a hilltop with a perfect, sunny, southern exposure in local dialect), created a sensation in the mid-1980s in both international and national wine circles and sent prices for Barbaresco soaring. He became one of the first Italian vintners to tirelessly promote his wines all over the world, in much the same way a rock star sells albums by going on tour. By the late 1980s, the name Gaja had become almost better known than the appellation itself, and he himself one of the most controversial - and imitated - winemakers in the country.
As Vacca succinctly puts it, "Thanks to Angelo Gaja, the whole world began talking about Barbaresco, but thanks to Produttori del Barbaresco, the whole world began drinking Barbaresco," in large part because of the more modest pricing policy of the latter.
Paolo Anfosso of the historic De Forville winery (it has been run by the same family since 1860), consistent makers of fabulous Barbarescos of a traditional nature, also has a different view on pricing policy than his iconic neighbor. "Barbaresco is obviously not an everyday wine, but we feel that it should not be a luxury product. But rather it should be affordable to everyone who wants to drink a special bottle of wine," he says. De Forville's exemplary Barbarescos offer top quality at outstanding value: Its Barbaresco normale costs about $30 and the Loreto cru only about $10 more.
Even older than De Forville, the storied house of Gaja was founded in 1859. Angelo, who took over the reins in 1961 when he was only 21 years old, is the fourth generation to run the family enterprise. "Unless you're an established billionaire, to make it in this business today you need to have been fortunate enough to have had other generations pave the way," explains Gaja. Continuing, he adds, "I have to thank above all my grandmother Cloltlide Rey who transmitted her philosophy of 'top quality only' to my grandfather, especially in his winemaking. And I have to thank my father - who understood long before others the concept of terroir - for having the foresight to acquire some of the best vineyards in Barbaresco."
Although Gaja faithfully credits his ancestors for their role in establishing one of Italy's - and one of the world's, for that matter - most prominent wineries, he himself implemented bold vineyard and cellar innovations that were unthinkable in Italy back in the 1960s and '70s. Besides conceiving the aforementioned individual bottlings of prime vineyards acquired by his father, Gaja blazed other trails, including severe vineyard management that advocates shorter pruning and lower yields. He also became the first to plant cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay in Piedmont and the first to experiment with barriques back in 1969, although it would be nearly another ten years before the small French oak barrels would become a mainstay at the Gaja winery. "The greatest red wines in the most prestigious wine-producing areas in the world all use barriques," Gaja notes, so it was only natural that he would wish to "experiment with aging our great Piedmont reds in them."
By the early 1990s, accolades like "modern masterpieces" and "revolutionary" were heaped on Gaja's polished renditions of the local classic by both the international and Italian wine press. Many of his peers in Piedmont, and eventually in the rest of Italy, soon began replacing their large botti (traditional Slavonian oak casks) with the smaller French barriques in the hope of cashing in on Gaja's success. Yet critics of the style have always maintained that these worldly Barbarescos, with their international flavor profiles of vanilla and coffee, and darker hues, cannot stand alongside traditional Barbarescos. By the late 1980s, a marked division emerged among wine producers in both Barbaresco and Barolo (more so in the former) and, until experience taught moderation, misuse of the new barrels and novel vinification techniques resulted in many over-oaked and over-extracted wines.
These days, most wineries in Barbaresco rely far less on new French oak. Even as many winemakers in the rest of Italy still strive to please New World palates (those smitten by generously oaked and extracted wines), the great majority of Barbaresco producers are instead taking a step back toward restraint, preferring to allow Barbaresco's trademark qualities of violets, roses, truffles, licorice and wild berry-cherry fruit to shine through unfettered by wood. In fact, many here refer to the mania for treating Barbaresco with all new French oak with the same disdain the fashion-forward crowd would show for obtrusive, 1980s-era shoulder pads in women's clothing, given that both are now viewed as embarrassing trends best forgotten.
Roberto Bruno from the Cantine di Glicine observes, "Up until just a few years ago, producers with little experience bought barriques and made such over-oaked wines that many were almost undrinkable. Now we've learned how to use these smaller barrels, sometimes in combination with traditional casks. I think the quality of the wines has now really taken off." Standing in his cool, 17th-century cellar 25 feet below ground (the original blueprints rest in Turin's Museum of Belle Arti), Bruno describes himself not as a traditionalist or a so-called modernist, but as a via di mezzo (in the middle), as do many of today's Barbaresco players. "I age my wine in both used barriques and botti. Most wine drinkers outside of Italy are accustomed to wines made with barriques and need the sweetening effect that also helps Nebbiolo to be enjoyed earlier. But botti cut down the risk of having too much new wood flavor." His Marcorino and Currá Barbarescos exemplify this tamer style of winemaking - a style that doesn't cover up the varietal's singular attributes, yet still appeals to less-experienced palates.
Even Gaja, one of the original Italian devotees of French barriques and the first to use them in Piedmont, never completely abandoned traditional casks. "We never even considered relying solely on new barriques for our red wines. Based on my experience, I can confirm that using 100 percent new barriques causes nebbiolo's unique taste and flavor profiles to suffer. When this happens, the use of barrique quickly becomes abuse instead," the charismatic winemaker affirms. His stylish wines are undeniably seductive, if not always typical. To avoid excessive oak sensations, Gaja ages his Barbaresco twelve months in barrique, only 28 to 40 percent new, and twelve months in traditional botti. "Our large botti are actually very old, between 80 and 120 years old," says Gaja's eldest daughter, Gaia, who works alongside her father, and who has inherited not only Angelo's penetrating aquamarine eyes, but also his charisma. She confirms that the centenary casks are meticulously washed every year and periodically shaved to keep them in perfect condition.
Another master at employing two types of barrels is Romano Marengo of Ca' Romé, who, along with his son, Giuseppe, is making some of the most sought-after Barbarescos, such as the stunning, silky Maria di Brun. Romano is a staunch traditionalist who never actually wanted to use barriques. "Thanks to the grapes' natural tannins, nebbiolo doesn't need the excess tannins from barrique," he explains. When Giuseppe joined his father in the 1990s, Romano reluctantly allowed him to introduce the smaller French barrels into their winemaking protocol. Today 60 percent of the wine is aged in botti, while 40 percent is initially aged in barriques to sweeten up the tannins before taking a final turn in the traditional casks. Smooth and well bred with earthy and floral sensations, the wines have none of the excessive vanilla or toasty traits often associated with barriques and prove that a happy medium is possible. Even Papà Marengo is pleased with the end results.
This agreeable balance now found in Barbaresco winemaking is a relatively new phenomenon. It can be argued that it came about only after the appellation was shaken to its foundation by the very winemaker who had so faithfully championed it in Italy and abroad. In late 1999, Gaja shocked the wine world by demoting his beloved mono-cru Barbarescos from DOCG, the most coveted status in the country, to Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, starting with the 1996 vintage. Rumors abounded that this unprecedented decision was based on a desire to blend his various Barbarescos with international grapes, such as cabernet sauvignon, which is strictly prohibited in the DOCG. Suddenly, Barbaresco came under almost microscopic scrutiny as winemakers in other elite and restrictive appellations watched and waited to see if other makers would follow Gaja's initiative. Meanwhile, both Italian and international wine critics bemoaned the demise of Barbaresco's hard-earned reputation.
With the cooped-up energy of a caged lion, the intense winemaker explains the nature of his radical move. "I know what many journalists and others in the industry have said and continue to say," he acknowledges. "But my decision was actually made in support of Barbaresco. My family focused on Barbaresco made with nebbiolo from 14 of the estate's vineyards, and it has always been the firm's historic wine. But while our single vineyard bottlings grew in prestige, our Barbaresco was suddenly referred to as 'normale' or 'basic,' and considered inferior to the mono-crus, which I never intended. My family has been making wine and striving for excellence for over 150 years. I don't want anything we make to be considered 'regular.' So now I have one Barbaresco only," Gaja says with conviction. Because his famous Sorìs are no longer regulated by the stringent DOCG rules that prohibit other grapes to be used for Barbaresco, Gaja is free to add 5 percent barbera, naturally high in acidity, to the single vineyard wines as permitted in the Langhe Nebbiolo DOC. According to Gaja, this compensates for the lack of freshness that nebbiolo is sometimes subject to, especially in recent hot vintages and particularly from vineyards with perfect southern exposures like those of his signature Sorìs.
Unlike his previous and daring transformations of local customs, Gaja's latest gamble has not been imitated by other Barbaresco producers. "I don't agree with Gaja's decision to withdraw any of his wines from the DOCG. I think it potentially could have damaged the appellation, and if any other producer had tried this, it would have meant suicide. But it must be admitted that not only will Angelo Gaja probably not endure any negative consequences, he's a hard worker and will put in 14 or 15 hours a day every day, if needed, to make it succeed," Vacca observes.
Tino Colla, who co-founded Poderi Colla, along with his niece Federica and famed older brother Beppe Colla (formerly of esteemed Prunotto), thinks downgrading the area's greatest wines is counterproductive given the instability of the international wine scene. "While I don't want to judge anyone's decisions, I firmly believe that we producers must stay united in order to face the very real threat of large, multinational companies from the New World that are buying up and merging small wineries all over Italy," Colla asserts. "Our future depends on our unique wines, but alone our small wineries cannot stand up to large beverage groups or compete against the deluge of New World wines. Our only hope is to strengthen our position by staying together, and confronting as a group the trend toward globalization," concludes Colla, whose Roncaglie bottlings have proven the greatness of this particular vineyard.
Gaja's realignment appears to have brought about a desire for at least a semblance of unity among producers known for being staunchly individual, and may therefore be at least partly responsible for heralding the more restrained style of winemaking spreading across the appellation that tempers the stylistic excesses that still plague many other wine regions. Most of today's Barbaresco producers are focusing on winemaking practices that highlight the wine's inherent aromas and flavors. According to Colla, who defines his non-interventionist philosophy of winemaking as "classic" because the term "traditional" often connotes antiquated winemaking practices, "In just the past few years, we've seen numerous cellars here return to more natural winemaking techniques that better suit Barbaresco, and fewer producers who try to force their wine into resembling something out of California."
Regardless of whether or not Gaja's momentous decision did, indeed, contribute to what can be defined as Barbaresco's new-found identity, he is satisfied that withdrawing his crus from the DOCG has returned his Barbaresco to its original renown. The move has also bestowed cult status and added an air of mystery to his single vineyard bottlings. In Barbaresco, even those who don't agree with his drastic decision still credit him as a major force in the wine's rise to the top. Produttori's Aldo Vacca states, "Barbaresco undoubtedly owes much of its fame today to Angelo Gaja." Gaja, himself, is somewhat more circumspect, observing, "My family and I are not the only ones who have always dedicated themselves to boosting Barbaresco's image. We also have to thank the local cooperative, Produttori del Barbaresco, and other producers, especially Bruno Giacosa. Besides my father - and I hope myself - Bruno Giacosa is not only one of the greatest négociants in Italy, he is also, without a doubt, one of the greatest experts in the best crus in both Barbaresco and Barolo."
Known as the "Genius of Neive," a reference to the town where he was born and has always lived and worked, Bruno Giacosa is the polar opposite of Angelo Gaja. A reserved man of very few words, what Gaja accomplished through tireless travel and promotion, Giacosa did with virtually no public relations effort until more recent years when his outgoing and charismatic daughter, Bruna, began visiting select export markets. The family patriarch is credited as the founding father of the enlightened traditional style of winemaking, using temperature-controlled fermentation, but keeping the length of both fermentation and maceration to about 15 days, well within long-established parameters, but a far cry from the 50 days of yesteryear. Aging his wines in large wood casks made with French rather than Slavonian oak, Giacosa makes wines of remarkable structure and elegance.
His celebrated career began during World War II when he left school at 15 to help his father in the family business. At that time, and for many years thereafter, Giacosa secured grapes from the finest sites in the Langhe, forging generational ties with growers who came to revere him. Giacosa's sterling reputation was earned largely because of his extraordinary palate - a palate that enabled him to identify the best vineyards throughout the Langhe.
Giacosa began bottling the greatest crus individually at about the same time as Gaja, and today his red label Riserva crus and white label Annata crus are sought by devotées the world over. For years, he wanted to buy his own vineyards, but was only interested in select parcels that sometimes took decades to acquire. In 1982, he bought the Falletto vineyard in Barolo, and in 1996, portions of the celebrated Asili and Rabajá vineyards in Barbaresco.
Giacosa is often called a "Barolista," the title bestowed only upon the greatest makers of this wine. Yet when asked to name his favorite cru, he is drawn to Barbaresco: "Asili is the vineyard closest to my heart. I could pick out a Barbaresco made from Asili grapes from a lineup of 50 Barbarescos, thanks to its delicate aromas and profound elegance," he enthuses. "No other vineyard in the Langhe yields a bouquet as fine or possesses such finesse and balance." A vertical tasting of Giacosa's Asili bottlings (conducted for this article by daughter Bruna) confirms Bruno's assertion. It is the quintessential Barbaresco: a wine of power, depth and uncommon grace. Precisely for these attributes, which, according to Giacosa, are a direct result of the vineyard's unique terroir - conditions that combine sandy soil with a perfect southern exposure at an altitude of 984 feet - Asili will be the only Giacosa Barbaresco to be released from the 2003 vintage.
Bruna, who continues to take on more responsibility within the family company, explains the decision: "Because of the extreme heat and drought, 2003 was a very unusual vintage. In general, nebbiolo suffered in these conditions, but we're very pleased with our Asili, which retained freshness and its trademark femininity and elegance." According to Giacosa enologist Dante Scaglione, leaf management was key in 2003. "The tendency of many producers in recent years leading up to this vintage was to cut nearly all or all the leaves off the vines, and expose the grapes to as much sun as possible in order to raise sugar and alcohol levels. This is always risky, but proved disastrous in 2003," he explains. "Experienced winemakers, like Giacosa, understand this and tend not to cut the third and fourth leaves that protect the grapes from being scorched. In 2003, this reduced the negative consequences of the vintage." Like the best producers in Barbaresco, Giacosa does not bottle any wine if the vintage, like 2002, is not up to his rigorous quality standards.
Asili's charm has attracted other producers, including those renowned for Barolo, such as Ceretto. With its company headquarters and main cellar just outside Alba, Ceretto has also bought vineyards and established four satellite cellars in the best areas of Piedmont. Ceretto's Barbaresco is made at its Bricco Asili winery near the famous vineyard where not only Barbaresco Asili is vinified, but also another cru, Bernardot, from Treiso.
Although the family firm is large and its distribution network broad, it is a Ceretto who directs every aspect of winemaking. Third generation Alessandro Ceretto is the resident enologist; he studied winemaking at Alba's enological school and gained a global perspective by participating in harvests around the world. Most of his professional career, however, has been spent living and working in both Barbaresco and Barolo, where winemakers are notoriously private, almost secretive; yet the determined young enologist is more candid than many of his peers. "It is essential that we producers sit down and discuss our winemaking ideas rather than everyone experimenting on their own in silence and then presenting something so different that it confuses consumers," he urges.
Like most winemakers in Barbaresco, Ceretto has recently decided against the use of 100 percent new barriques; instead, he now uses exclusively aged barriques for his more mainstream wines and a mix of new and aged barriques for his crus. "We don't use the standard 225-liter barriques either, but 300-liter since this diminishes wood sensations; and never more than half of the barrels are new while the rest are used." Yet Ceretto does not consider going back to the large casks of old, which his father used until 1993. "Barriques are the perfect size in terms of delivering the right ratio of oxygen to the wine, and they stabilize the wine's various components better than casks."
Bordering Asili is Rabajá, another legendary Barbaresco cru. With its south-southwest exposure and heavier soil, Rabajá Barbarescos are fuller bodied, more fruit forward and longer lived than Asili, but still possess the appellation's hallmark refinement. Best examples are arguably made by the local cooperative, Bruno Giacosa, Giuseppe Cortese and Bruno Rocca, whose exquisite wines have long been considered the epitome of modern Barbarescos because they are polished and readily drinkable, but also remain true to their roots. "Nebbiolo starts off with a rich, beautiful color that it loses right after fermentation when color components precipitate. Although wines from other parts of Rabajá can be deeper in color, wines made from the historic section of the vineyard that borders with Asili are often lighter hued than other Barbarescos and are very similar to Pinot Noir," explains Rocca, owner of his eponymous winery. "So, I've traveled frequently to Burgundy since 1978 to train with the masters and am convinced that barriques stabilize color better than the traditional casks. The real secret is in finding the right type of oak, and the best level of wood toast or seasoning, combined with varying barrel ages," he continues. "I hate extraneous vanilla and oak flavors, and try to avoid these at all costs while still keeping nebbiolo's initially rich color." He has succeeded admirably, and has even indoctrinated many die-hard fans of botti to the advantages gained by the discerning use of the foreign barrels.
In the mid-1990s, Barbaresco DOCG producers began identifying the zone's numerous crus with the intent of one day having them all officially recognized by the government. Based on geography and local history, not just vineyard names, but also fantasy names, winery names and subzones within the growing area can now be added to labels. Yet the majority of these names are not associated with any special characteristics or superior quality, and succeed primarily in creating an utterly confusing situation for consumers who understandably associate single vineyard bottlings with superior quality, as is the case with the illustrious crus already mentioned.
Locally acclaimed Martinenga must also be considered among the best sites. Situated directly below Asili and Rabajá, and owned entirely by Marchesi di Gresy, the vineyard's blue-gray soil is rich in magnesium and other minerals that are mirrored in the superbly crafted wines. Other noteworthy vineyards in the Barbaresco commune include Ovello, Rio Sordo and Roncaglie.
Neive, where, surprisingly, more land is planted to moscato grapes than nebbiolo, boasts one of the most eminent vineyards in the appellation: Santo Stefano. Thanks to its southern exposure and clay soils, the vineyard is famous for its magnificent and robust Barbarescos with earthy-spicy aromas and Barolo-like structure. The entire vineyard is owned by the Stupino family (they also own the breathtaking Castello di Neive), who produce two excellent Barbarescos from the vineyard. But it was the Stupinos' longtime friend Bruno Giacosa, the only producer to whom the family sells grapes, who took the cru to new heights of quality and power, turning Santo Stefano into one of the most recognizable names in Barbaresco with his vineyard designate of the same name. Other Neive vineyards of particular note are Currá, Gallina (where Ugo Lequio is one of the rising stars) and Marcorino.
Treiso, the third town in the Barbaresco growing zone, has the highest overall altitude and tends to make lighter-bodied wines with enticing floral aromas. Vineyards Bernardot, Nervo and Pajoré can be compared to the best in Barbaresco. The entire Rizzi subzone, with its southern exposure and slightly lower altitude than the town itself, offers perfect conditions under which nebbiolo excels. Cantina Rizzi, owned by the Dellapiana family, is one of the major players in Treiso. Their classic Barbarescos embody the spirit of nebbiolo stamped by the denomination's suppleness along with floral and leather sensations, and licorice and truffle nuances.
Despite his youth, 28-year-old Enrico Dellapiana, who holds a double degree in Enology/Viticulture and History, is a steadfast traditionalist who believes only in using techniques that do not compromise nebbiolo's natural profile, which means he would never dream of using barriques. After years of defending his family's winemaking ideals, he is thrilled to see a return toward tradition, albeit with a degree of circumspection not possessed by many of his elders. "Barbaresco owes a huge debt to the modernists who shook things up around here," he admits. "Thanks to them, even the most inflexible traditionalists began cleaning up their act, especially in the cellar. Suddenly, old botti were being thoroughly cleaned, regenerated or substituted; yields have been reduced by replanting or by green harvesting excess grapes - practices now adhered to by everyone. Barbaresco's overall quality has never been higher."
These across-the-board quality improvements, in tandem with a new-found appreciation for winemaking techniques that highlight nebbiolo's uniqueness, have enabled Barbaresco to offer something that no other Italian wine can match: a guarantee of excellence combined with a true sense of identity.
Contributing Editor Kerin O'Keefe is an American wine writer who has lived in Italy since 1989 and is the author of Franco Biondi Santi - the Gentleman of Brunello.
Tasting BAR
The Barbarescos that follow were selected from more than 200 tasted with the winemakers, or at various tastings organized for the author in Italy with samples provided directly by the wineries. None were tasted blind. Most of the 2003s are already available in the United States, yet a few will continue to arrive through late fall and early winter.
Ada Nada, 2003 Cichin Barbaresco - $35: Intense aromas of plums preserved in spirits with a hint of licorice. Rich black fruit flavors with tobacco sensations and a dark cherry finish. Score: 88
Adriano Marco & Vittorio, 2003 Basarin Barbaresco - $40: Intense nose of very ripe plum, blackberry and rose with hints of white pepper and leather. Dried cherry and plum on the palate with a long finish revealing sweet pipe tobacco and black pepper. A bit rustic but full of personality. Score: 88
Antichi Podere dei Gallina, 2003 Gallina I Ciaciaret Barbaresco - $33: Enticing nose of woodland berries with a waft of incense. Succulent fruit flavors and a hint of orange peel. Long, dried raspberry finish concludes with white pepper. Ready now. Score: 89
Bruno Giacosa, 2000 Asili Barbaresco Riserva (red label) - $225: Tantalizing bouquet of strawberry and rose laced with enticing cedar, tobacco and mineral notes. Intensely flavored and full bodied with a voluptuous mouth-feel and smooth tannins. Sublimely fresh, bright berry flavors with an incredibly long and graceful finish that closes with lush marasca cherry and minerals. A fantastic Barbaresco. Score: 96
Bruno Giacosa, 2001 Asili Barbaresco - $185: Gorgeous floral nose with complex layers of cedar, minerals, truffle and wild cherry. Bright cherry and raspberry flavors accompanied by dazzling floral sensations balanced with packed tannins. Very polished with a long spicy finish that features tobacco and minerals. Quintessential Barbaresco to enjoy now or lay down for years. Score: 97
Bruno Giacosa, 2003 Asili Barbaresco - $185: Ripe raspberry scents with the cru's hallmark sensations of rose petals and a whiff of cedar. Radiant wild cherry and savory spice flavors are elegant and extraordinarily fresh for the vintage. Wonderfully balanced with firm tannins and a long, earthy finish. Simply the best of all the 2003s tasted. Score: 94
Bruno Giacosa, 1999 Barbaresco - $95: Alluring bouquet of rose, violets and truffle with whiffs of leather and black pepper. Concentrated flavors of dried raspberry and cherry balanced by smooth tannins. Lingering, white pepper close. Score: 92
Bruno Giacosa, 2001 Rabajà Barbaresco Riserva (red label) - $250: Big, bold and beautiful. Powerful aromas of ripe berry and plum with notes of leather and spice. Full bodied and loaded with rich dark fruit flavors balanced by firm tannins and a long, wild cherry finish. Excellent length with a spicy, refined conclusion.
Score: 96
Bruno Rocca, 2003 Rabajà Barbaresco - $85: Intense perfume of roses and violets beckon. Ripe, rich raspberry flavors with a long, clean, spicy finish. Tannic backbone balanced by freshness - amazing considering the vintage. Score: 93
Cantine del Glicine, 2003 Marcorino Barbaresco - $56: Aromas of raspberry and eucalyptus with whiffs of tobacco and toast. Very ripe cherry-berry flavors with hints of truffle and oak. Enjoyable now.
Score: 88
Ca' Rome', 2003 Barbaresco - $73: Reserved floral scents of rose, wild cherry and truffle. Bright berry flavors with a tannic backbone and a pleasing, earthy close. Score: 90
Ca' Rome', 2001 Rio Sordo Barbaresco - $85: Elegant, perfumed scents of freshly blossomed violets and rose petals with a hint of spice. Restrained cherry flavors lead to a long, spicy finish with lingering wild berry notes. Score: 92
Ca' Rome', 2001 Maria di Brun Barbaresco - $94: Enticing and complex bouquet of rose, earth, truffle and tobacco show wonderful breeding. Elegant cherry and spice flavors balanced by firm tannins with a long, lingering close of cedar and spice. Enjoyable now but will age gracefully. Score: 95
Cascina delle Rose, 2001 Rio Sordo Barbaresco - $45: Floral and black fruit aromas with earthy nuances. Juicy strawberry and raspberry flavors balanced by bracing, but sweet tannins. Long, spicy finish shows cinnamon. Score: 93
Castello di Neive, 2003 Santo Stefano Barbaresco - $45: Pronounced cherry and strawberry fragrance with hints of leather and exotic spices. Lush, fresh strawberry flavors with a hint of tobacco and a long, white pepper finish. Score: 89
Castello di Neive, 2001 Santo Stefano Barbaresco Riserva - $70: Penetrating earthy aromas of white truffle, tobacco leaf and dried cherry with a violet nuance. Rich raspberry and cherry flavors with a hint of tea; big, sweet tannins. Excellent length with a pronounced cinnamon and spice close. Score: 92
Ceretto, 2003 Bricco Asili Bricco Asili Barbaresco - $130: Lovely floral and berry scents layered with noticeable oak, incense and eucalyptus notes. Very ripe berry, plum and vanillin flavors with a long, coffee-chocolate finish. Score: 90
Ceretto, 2001 Bricco Asili Bernardot Barbaresco - $65: Very modern take on classic floral, earthy and ripe fruit aromas laced with oak. Lush berry, plum and vanilla flavors with young, aggressive tannins. Long, coffee-soaked finish. Score: 94
De Forville, 2003 Barbaresco - $30: Lovely earthy and floral scents with a hint of licorice. Juicy berry flavors give way to a long, licorice finish. Very elegant; an outstanding value. Score: 90
De Forville, 2003 Loreto Barbaresco - $40: Dazzling aromas of dried rose petals, violets and minerals. Traditionally crafted and graceful with wild cherry flavors and a hint of tobacco. Wonderful length with an earthy, mineral close. Score: 91
F.lli Cigliuti, 2003 Vigne Erte Barbaresco - $53: Springtime floral scents with cherry and tobacco notes. Warm flavors of cherries preserved in spirits with earthy truffle and the heat of alcohol in the long finish. Score: 89
Francone, 2003 I Patriachi Barbaresco - $30: Very traditional style with earthy aromas of rose, saddle leather and truffle. Juicy cherry-berry flavors reflect the heat of 2003, but the long, dry wild cherry finish is clean and fresh. Score: 90
Gaja, 2001 Barbaresco - $185: Heady violet perfume with a hint of truffle. Bright, juicy black cherry and raspberry flavors, and a long, spicy finish balanced by bracing tannins. Still a bit closed, but will soon blossom into a beauty. Score: 95
Gaja, 2003 Barbaresco - $165: Fruit-forward aromas of ripe berries and plum with hints of rose, all of which come through to the palate with bracing tannins and the warmth of alcohol. Long, fresh cherry finish has the telltale Gaja finesse. Score: 92
Giuseppe Cortese, 2003 Rabajà Barbaresco - $55: Ripe berry, floral and spicy scents. Succulent raspberry flavors with undertones of tea and wet earth. Long finish with smooth, but present tannins. Score: 90
La Spinona, 2000 Faset Barbaresco - $30: Alluring berry aromas mixed with spices and whiffs of truffle and violet. Dried woodland berry and tea flavors with added layers of smooth licorice. Long, round finish with a lingering eucalyptus note. Score: 90
Lano, 2003 Barbaresco - $38: Fully developed berry aromas with a pleasing orange peel nuance and a hint of eucalyptus. Big raspberry and plum liqueur-like flavors. Close finishes with a licorice note. Score: 88
Montaribaldi, 2003 Sorì Montaribaldi Barbaresco - $45: Lovely scents of dried rose petals and talc. Bright cherry flavors with tea and black pepper notes. Complex and refined with big, sweet tannins and a long, warm, cherry close. Score: 89
Musso, 2003 Rio Sordo Barbaresco - $35: Focused aromas of earth, ripe plum and black cherry. Black cherry-berry flavors with hints of white pepper and vanilla on the close. Score: 87
Pio Cesare, 2001 Il Bricco Barbaresco - $137: Rich black cherry and plum nose with developed aromas of tar, smoke and oak. Dark cherry and vanilla flavors; a long finish with a eucalyptus conclusion. Very international version. Score: 93
Poderi Colla, 2003 Roncaglie Barbaresco - $63: Heady, fresh, floral bouquet with just a hint of allspice. Ripe, juicy cherry-berry flavors with a hint of orange peel balanced by big, but evolved tannins. Long finish shows soothing licorice. Score: 91
Produttori del Barbaresco, 2001 Moccagatta Barbaresco - $55: Enticing nose of freshly blossomed violets with undercurrents of earth and raspberry. Restrained strawberry and raspberry flavors lead to a long finish with a sweet pipe tobacco note on the close. Still young, but very elegant. Score: 95
Produttori del Barbaresco, 2001 Montestefano Barbaresco - $55: Intense aromas of rose and raspberry with a hint of truffle. Balanced, bright berry flavors with a spicy, earthy close; tight, but inviting tannins. Score: 95
Produttori del Barbaresco, 2003 Barbaresco - $35: Ripe and pronounced berry scents with a refreshing hint of orange blossom and just a bit of leather. Succulent and earthy flavors of raspberry and truffle with big, sweet tannins. Great value. Score: 89
Rizzi, 2001 Boito Barbaresco - $55: Multifaceted layers of ripe strawberry, leather and spice on the nose. Full bodied and complex with cherry and strawberry flavors and a hint of leather. Dark cherry finish with a lingering licorice conclusion. Score: 95
Rizzi, 2001 Fondetta Barbaresco - $55: Delicate aromas with layers and layers of ripe but restrained fruit with whiffs of leather and licorice; all of which carry through to the palate. Very aristocratic. Score: 93
Rizzi, 2001 Barbaresco Riserva - $50: Classic earthy-spicy aromas of rose and tobacco. Elegantly restrained flavors of berries and earth with a long white pepper and cinnamon close. Score: 90
Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy, 2003 Martinenga Barbaresco - $45: Overripe berry nose with noticeable alcohol. Lush blackberry and stewed plum flavors close with a hint of toast; big, round tannins. Warmth of alcohol on the close; could be fresher, but reflects the vintage. Score: 88
Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy, 2001 Camp Gros Martinenga Barbaresco - $80: Concentrated aromas of rose, violets and cherry with hints of toast and pastry cream; all of which carry through to the palate. Full bodied and balanced by a long, minerally close. Score: 93
Ugo Lequio, 2003 Gallina Barbaresco - $40: Ripe berry nose accompanied by floral and leather notes. Lush raspberry flavors and round tannins with a bright cherry and sweet tobacco close.
Score: 90 - KO
