Though young by comparison to most of the Old World’s elite appellations, Brunello di Montalcino has been an American collector must-have since the 1980s, when the newly influential wine press began toasting its praises.
CREDIT: CONSORZIO DEL VINO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
Brunello de-con-struct-edText by Kerin O'KeefePerched on a hilltop dominated by a medieval fortress, Montalcino and its signature wine project an aura of majesty and mystique. Vying with Barolo to be Italy's most important wine, Brunello di
Montalcino has become an international sensation. Americans, in particular, can't seem to get enough of what is undoubtedly Tuscany's most prestigious wine, with one in every four bottles of Brunello made destined for U.S. shores. Yet the elite appellation is facing certain challenges that may require tough remedies to keep quality up and bring what has become the enological pride and joy of all of Italy to new and sustained levels of greatness.
"Brunello di Montalcino is a signore who arrives wearing a tuxedo, while Rosso di Montalcino is a young guy who shows up in a T-shirt and designer jeans," notes Giulio Salvioni, an artisanal Brunello producer whose tiny bottling of Tuscany's premier wine has a near-cult following. "Two-thousand-two was a good Rosso vintage, but definitely not a year for the type of complex, long-lived and distinguished Brunellos that my customers expect," he continues.
Like several other estates that comprise a brave minority, Salvioni did not make Brunello from the 2002 crop because, due to torrential rain at harvest time in September, it was one of the worst Italian vintages in recent memory. Instead, he made only Rosso.
While most of the 2002 Brunellos in the region are not at the lofty standards many wine aficionados associate them with, there are a few gems. But even these won't stand up to lengthy cellaring, a defining hallmark of the appellation. Because grape maturation was difficult to obtain, many producers appeared to have blended some of their 2003 Brunellos with those from '02 (as is permitted under the production code) to beef up the latters' lean structure. This difficult vintage - and perhaps to an even further extent the 2003s (to be released in 2008) from the notoriously scalding year that was the hottest and driest ever recorded in Italy - underscore the pressing need for official recognition of Montalcino's subzones.
Far from having uniform growing conditions, there are distinct differences between zones within the Montalcino denomination that, among other things, have a significant impact on maturation and when harvest should commence - which proved crucial in 2002. These subzones possess varying microclimates, soils and altitudes, all of which lead to markedly different styles of Brunello that, while exaggerated in tough vintages, are always evident, even in great years such as 2001. Climatic discrepancies among vintages, however, are not the only reason for the urgency in regard to establishing subzones.
Because of zealous over-planting starting in the late 1990s, Brunello production has steadily climbed, and is set to soar. The enormous increase has pushed to the forefront long-neglected questions, primarily concerning Brunello's identity, or tipicità, as Montalcino winemakers search for ways to protect Brunello's prestige from the perils posed by a saturated market. Many producers believe the time has come to curb vinification techniques that smudge Brunello's innate characteristics with more globalized sensations. Even more important, many winemakers want official recognition of Montalcino's varied subzones, particularly because areas previously considered unsuitable for winemaking have recently been planted with sangiovese.
Understanding the various subzones helps one differentiate, among other aspects, Brunellos that are approachable when young from those destined for long aging, or the more elegant from the more powerful. Clearly defined and officially recognized subzones will also serve as a guide in difficult vintages.
For example, though 2002 was problematic throughout the appellation, Brunello from this vintage generally fared better in the warmer and drier areas of the extreme southern reaches of the appellation, where producers harvested at least some of the grapes before the rains started. The upcoming 2003s, based on barrel tastings and producers' own estimates, appear to have performed better in the higher altitudes closer to town where slightly lower nighttime temperatures gave some relief, while vines in the lower-lying areas where temperatures remained constant suffered heat and water stress.
An estate's stylistic preferences must also be taken into account, because too much intervention in the cellar can easily eradicate the subtle effects of terroir.
Most consumers, however, are unaware of the vast differences within the denomination and are no more aware of the existence of subzones, which, though not officially recognized, are not in dispute.
A young wine by Old World standards, Brunello was created less than 150 years ago by the Biondi Santi family, virtually the only producer of the wine until the 1950s. The wine's short history has been marked by continuous expansion and triumph since the 1960s. Thanks to Brunello's seemingly perennial success and more demand than supply, no serious efforts have been deemed necessary to delineate wines from different subzones within the appellation - that is, until now.
As an onslaught of newly founded wineries begin making Brunello, delineating these nuances has taken on an urgency previously unknown in the elite appellation. When the wine became subject to a DOC designation in 1966, there were but 12 "bottlers" (producers), 157 acres of registered vines and fewer than 16,600 cases produced annually, according to the local consorzio's estimates. Production steadily increased. Nearly 67,000 cases of the 1975 vintage were produced by 25 estates, and this figure catapulted to almost 292,000 by the 1995 vintage (bearing the labels of 120 estates). In 1997, during what is now being called the golden era of Brunello, producers successfully petitioned to have the appellation's sealed vineyard registers re-opened to increase production in order to satisfy what seemed like an insatiable global market.
Unfortunately for Montalcino, this move was followed by EU decree 950, whereby people under 40 were eligible for subsidies to purchase land and planting rights in order to attract a new generation into agriculture. The two edicts were duly exploited, and production has steadily increased. Now 250 producers annually turn out, on average, 500,000 cases of Brunello from 4,940 acres of Brunello vines (though the poor climatic conditions in 2002 meant that only half this amount of Brunello was released in 2007). This figure theoretically could surge to over 1 million cases hitting the market in 2009 based on the figurative ocean of Brunello aging in estate cellars across Montalcino.
Fortunately for the denomination, the updated figure, though still unofficial, appears to be "only" around 667,000 cases, according the consorzio's latest calculation. The downturn was no error in tabulation; rather, many producers have since declassified portions of their Brunello production to Rosso di Montalcino, which must also be made exclusively from sangiovese. Brunello's younger version can be released in September of the year following the vintage as opposed to five years for Brunello, and it can be made from vines registered to Rosso production or by declassifying part of the Brunello crop. The latter practice leads to better-structured Rossos, while at the same time safeguarding Brunello quality. As a result, more potential Brunello is released earlier as Rosso, a wine that represents one of the best values on today's Italian wine scene.
In addition to overproduction, the recent planting frenzy in Montalcino has also seen many start-up wineries cultivate vines in areas generally considered unsuitable for grape growing. Because the resulting wines may not live up to Brunello's reputation as a complex, age-worthy wine, distinguishing the denomination's unofficial subzones is now being viewed as one way to help Brunello fans find their way through the pending deluge of wine and avalanche of new labels.
Yet Montalcino wine producers are sharply divided over drawing hard and fast lines in the soil here, with dissenters fearing such a classification system could penalize them. Stefano Campatelli, director of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello, is among those who reject the idea: "It's not because we feel that subzones don't exist, but because there are too many. Recognizing them would only create more confusion," he says. Andrea Costanti of the pioneering Colle al Matrichese estate, takes an opposing view: "Subzones have always been avoided in Montalcino, but now that there is so much confusion over the types of Brunello available, I'm all for it," he asserts, adding that, "While many international varieties do well all over the world, great sangiovese is very much a consequence of its terroir, and does especially well at higher altitudes."
Montalcino itself is a testament to the importance of terroir. For it is here, in very specific parts of the denomination, that sangiovese, the most widely planted grape in Italy, can yield truly superlative wines.
Brunello's entire production area is centered around the town of Montalcino, 25 miles south of Siena, and parts of the vast appellation are a mere 25 miles (as the crow flies) east of the Tyrrhenian Sea. It comprises a vast area of 60,174 acres, half of which remain covered by woodland, and vaguely resembles a square ten miles in diameter delimited by the Orcia, Asso and Ombrone rivers. Within these boundaries, four major slopes rise like a pyramid to peak at 2,187 feet above sea level, with Mt. Amiata protecting the slopes from hail and violent storms. When compared to the nearby Chianti Classico zone, Montalcino enjoys a more Mediterranean climate, one in which sangiovese benefits from the hotter temperatures and drier weather - perfect ripening conditions for this temperamental variety. Among all of Tuscany's denominations, it is no coincidence that only Brunello is required to be sangiovese in purezza.
Beside marked contrasts in both climate and altitude within the entire growing area, there is also an extraordinary array of soil types because Montalcino was formed in different geological eras. Younger Pliocene soils originated from alluvial runoff and clay from marine deposits, and dominate in the southern lowlands. Farther uphill, the terrain is mainly clay enriched with calcareous fossil material laid down during the Miocene-Oligocene periods. Moderately stony soils mixed with sand and rich in lime dating to the Cretaceous-Eocene period prevail in the uppermost areas of the DOC, and it is from here that the cream of the Brunello crop is harvested.
Indeed, most of Brunello's 250 growers and bottling estates are located on hilly terrain outside the fortified town's gates to the immediate north and southeast, and are almost without exception decidedly small scale.
The cluster of wineries immediately southeast of Montalcino lie in what is the original growing area. For many years, this restricted zone, along with a few parcels north of the town, was the only Brunello-producing area. Vineyard altitudes range from 1,300 feet to 1,640 feet above sea level, and the steep terrain necessitates manual harvesting. Soil structure is among the most ancient because these higher altitudes emerged before the rest of the area from the oceans once covering the earth. This thin, but well-draining soil, perfect for sangiovese, is mainly calcareous and sandy limestone and can restrain the youthful exuberance of healthy grapevines. Mineral-rich shale and sandstone formations, as well as marly limestone, are also present in some of the best vineyards, including those at Biondi Santi's Greppo estate, located one mile south of the town and the actual birthplace of Brunello.
Here among the vertiginous reaches of the production zone, the most elegant and long-lived Brunellos are produced, complex and beautifully balanced with rich bouquets that develop over time. According to Franco Biondi Santi, the grand old master of Italian winemaking, whose grandfather was officially credited by the Italian government with creating Brunello, "Greppo's vineyards are among the highest throughout the production zone, reaching 1,663 feet. The high altitude generates great differences between day and night temperatures, especially during crucial ripening months," he explains. "Since the vineyards have south, southeast and eastern exposures, the earliest morning sunshine lands here in the pre-harvest period and quickly heats up the grapes from the cool evening temperatures. These temperature variations create slow-ripening Brunello and are essential for developing the wine's perfume."
Biondi Santi points out that the longer growing season in this area means that they harvest two weeks later than the more precocious areas of Sant'Angelo in the extreme south. Greppo's high altitude also imparts relatively high acidity, the main element responsible for classic Brunello's marathon aging ability. Franco and his father, Tancredi, had the foresight to wall up the estate's oldest vintages right before the campaigning passed through Montalcino during World War II. These same vintages, going back to 1888, would later prove to the world the incredible aging potential of Brunello di Montalcino. At recent vertical tastings held for the media by Franco Biondi Santi, legendary riservas from the estate's wine library, such as the 1955 and the 1975, have stunned tasters (including this journalist) with their complexity and elegance combined with youthful freshness. >
The distinguished winemaker who, at 85, still runs every aspect of his estate, has been fighting for years to have subzones recognized, even petitioning the government to do so in 1996, a request that was ignored. "When you buy a Château Margaux, you know what to expect," he notes. "We need a similar system here in Montalcino because there are now completely different styles of Brunello available." Icons of the traditional Brunello style, Biondi Santi's Annata and Riserva are aged for three years in large Slavonian oak casks, the latter produced only in exceptional years and exclusively from vines over 25 years old. Biondi Santi refuses to use any enological practices that might change the tipicità of his Brunello. He therefore shuns selected yeasts, as well as barriques, saying of the latter: "Sangiovese is already so rich in tannins it doesn't need added tannins extracted from barrique."
He does, however, make the most out of technology that has improved the wines without changing their unique characteristics, such as temperature-controlled fermentation. Far from being old-fashioned, Biondi Santi began a long collaboration with the University of Florence in 1971 to continue the clonal research at Greppo started by his father and grandfather. This research enabled the determined winemaker to isolate the thicker-skinned BBS 11, now planted in most of his vineyards along with other Greppo clones. He was decades ahead of his time because wide-scale clonal analysis on sangiovese only began in the mid-1990s.
Other classic Brunellos from the denomination's higher altitudes include those made by Andrea Costanti, whose sleek wines are aged in large casks and 350- to 600-liter French barrels of varying ages. Two more are Il Colle and Giulio Salvioni, the latter with vineyards farther east at altitudes of 1,148 to 1,312 feet. The area directly southeast of the town of Montalcino was among the worst hit by nonstop driving rain at the start of the 2002 harvest, and all of the aforementioned top estates declassified their 2002 Brunello to Rosso, with the exception of Il Colle.
Owned by the Carli family, Il Colle has been making Brunello since the late 1970s on the estate that directly borders Andrea Costanti's family property. In 1998, the Carlis bought vineyards in another area farther south at Castelnuovo dell'Abate, the fruit of which is blended with grapes from their Il Colle vineyards. This practice actually enabled them to make a small amount of very good 2002s. "Our vineyards at Il Colle make very graceful wines, while those from Castelnuovo are fuller bodied," explains Caterina Carli, who runs the estate today along with her mother, Ernesta. Blending them creates the perfect balance. "Carefully selecting grapes was key in 2002," she continues, "but having vineyards in two different areas of the growing zone also gives us more protection in difficult vintages that may affect one area more than the other."
Il Colle, whose annual production of both Brunello and Rosso is less than 2,500 cases (half as much in 2002), employs the services of Giulio Gambelli, known in Italy as the Maestro Assaggiatore (master taster). Although he has had no formal training, Gambelli is famed in Italy for his remarkably keen palate. He was "discovered" in the early 1940s at age 14 by Tancredi Biondi Santi. Biondi Santi was impressed with the young man's exceptional tasting skills and took him under his wing at one of the many cellars for which Tancredi Biondi Santi consulted at the time. Gambelli went on to consult for some of Tuscany's top estates, and despite his advanced age, remains consultant winemaker at the Montalcino estates of Poggio di Sotto and Case Basse.
Many of Montalcino's oldest estates and traditional winemakers are located in the original zone, and prefer Brunello with marked acidity balanced with bracing tannins. To that end, they employ large casks that allow the wine to develop aromas of dried flowers and tobacco. Although these Brunellos are full bodied, complex and revered for their longevity, such classically styled bottlings are sometimes criticized by international critics for being too delicately hued. But as any traditionalist will tell you, "If it's black and inky, it's not sangiovese."
Just as two styles have emerged in most of the Old World's distinguished wine regions, in Montalcino, Brunello now has two faces: The classic style that undergoes more traditional fermentation and maceration periods with as little cellar intervention as possible (these Brunellos sometimes need a few years to tame sangiovese's natural tannins and acidity, but continue to evolve for years); and a plusher style, more readily enjoyed while young, that gained cachet toward the end of the last century. This trendier version is deeply hued due to techniques that extract more color during maceration and fermentation (illicit blending with other varieties to darken sangiovese's lighter color is staunchly denied on all official fronts, though doubts can only remain in the face of some of the darker, impenetrable Brunellos sometimes seen), and aged in barriques that lend chocolate, vanilla and toast elements. These powerful New Age Brunellos often display less acidity, largely because of over-maturation of grapes, which is a result of practices such as aggressive defoliation to expose clusters to more sunshine or leaving berries on the vine long after maturation, hence raising sugar and alcohol levels.
In very recent years, more and more critics and consumers alike are beginning to recognize the limitations of these instant-gratification wines. Case in point: At a tasting of vintages dating back to 1964 held for the media in April of this year to mark the 40th anniversary of the founding of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello, most of the twelve 1997s in the lineup were from the modern school, and what was in the glasses shocked tasters. The once-opulent fruit had vanished, leaving behind only marked wood sensations and alcohol.
And just as producers in other parts of Italy have taken a step back from the "bigger is better" philosophy, many Brunello makers are doing the same. Some even consider it a rather passé trend. "Look at the collapse of Super Tuscan sales," Giulio Salvioni, an outspoken traditionalist, prompts. "They were once touted as the future of Italian wine," he continues. "Now they can barely be given away. Winemakers here have noticed and want to differentiate themselves by making a wine that can't be replicated anywhere, by making Brunello without the vanilla and excessive concentration."
Fringing Montalcino to the north as the slopes begin to descend lies another area densely populated with small wineries, the majority of which are second- and third-generation producers who remain faithful to the traditional school, though a distinct minority have embraced the more opulent style. The soil here becomes predominantly calcareous limestone and clay from the lower Cretaceous periods with varying altitudes along with diverse exposures creating myriad microzones. A number of artisan estates that call north Montalcino home make lighter-hued, wonderfully aromatic Brunellos. According to Florio Guerrini, who runs the boutique Paradiso di Manfredi estate with his wife, Rossella, "Brunellos from the slopes north of Montalcino can always be recognized because they are highly perfumed with floral, forest floor and berry sensations. They are also naturally well balanced - both graceful and round." Guerrini, whose earthy yet exquisite wines have won a niche market, made an outstanding 2002 Brunello because he was able to pick his five acres of vines eight hours before the heavy rains arrived.
Paradiso di Manfredi counts among its northern neighbors Gianni Brunelli, whose name seems to have sealed his fate as one of Brunello's hottest cult producers. He began making wine from nearly five acres of vineyards in an area known as Le Chiuse. Until recently, much of his small production was served almost exclusively at his famed La Loggia restaurant in Siena. "Wines from Le Chiuse have the greatest bouquets, but also have rather delicate structures," Brunelli notes. "I wanted to make fuller-bodied, more complex Brunello, but would never try to create this structure in the cellar since great wine can only originate in the vineyard," he continues. To that end he bought vineyards a few miles southeast of town near Fattoria dei Barbi that have an average elevation of 1,050 feet above sea level. "These give fuller-bodied wines," he says. "I vinify grapes from the different areas separately and then blend before bottling." Brunelli's 2001 Riserva, his first vintage made with grapes from both areas, earned rave reviews from both Italian and international critics for its finesse and fullness.
Other top producers north of the medieval hilltop town whose limited production nonetheless reaches the U.S. market include Canalicchio, Canalicchio di Sopra, Alessandro Mori's Il Marroneto, whose classically austere Brunellos blossom with age, La Capanna, Livio Sassetti at Pertimali, and the large Val di Suga estate which is owned by Tenimenti Angelini. The north also boasts Montalcino's most famous cru or single vineyard: Montosoli, which hugs a rounded hill with altitudes ranging from 656 to 1,148 feet, and is spared the autumnal fog that often invades the lower altitudes north of Montalcino. Brunellos from Montosoli are more powerful and ripe, if slightly more rustic, than Brunellos from higher altitudes. While enjoyable at an earlier age, they generally do not have the essential structure to age for decades. The most famous producer with Montosoli holdings is Altesino, which bottles its cru Brunello only in the best years. With north-facing vineyards up to 1,115 feet, the higher altitude gives a certain refinement to Altesino's cru, one that is otherwise known for its muscle.
Relatively few estates are situated in the outermost reaches of the northern Montalcino production zone, but this is quickly changing as a result of the recent planting boom. Most vineyards north of Montosoli are low lying and prey to both fog and devastating spring frosts. Enduring these climatic challenges without the benefit of the breezes enjoyed at higher altitudes, vines risk developing mold during the rainy season. A majority of firms here are making Brunello by blending local grapes with those from other vineyards throughout the production zone, as does Altesino. Its Brunello normale is a blend of grapes from its Altesino and La Velona vineyards, the latter near Castelnuovo dell'Abate in the far southeast, as well as from Montosoli whenever the fruit is not otherwise bottled separately.
Dense clay, known locally as crete senesi, once deterred the widespread planting that has recently taken root in Torrenieri in the northeast, with the notable exception being Casanova di Neri, which was already established in the area in 1971 and was for years the only Torrenieri producer. Today owner Giacomo Neri makes his Brunello normale from both his estate vineyards in the heart of Torrenieri as well as those surrounding his new cellar in Fiesole, which lies midway between Montalcino and Torrenieri. Neri also owns vineyards farther south, and his Tenuta Nuova is a blend of vineyards in the Sant'Angelo and Castelnuovo dell'Abate subzones. The firm's cru bottling, Cerretalto, hails from a single vineyard that is found farther east beneath Torrenieri at a bend in the Asso River where there are essentially no other established plantings. While Neri is enthusiastic about Cerretalto's unique microclimate, the wine's dense concentration, obvious wood and vanilla sensations mask any vestige of terroir, and instead express the winemaking style embraced by the firm's enologist, Carlo Ferrini.
Indeed, many wines coming from relatively new estates with young vineyards planted in the heart of Torrenieri are turning out rather uninspiring wines that largely lack Brunello's hallmark balance and complexity. In fairness, though, as the young vines gain maturity, they may yield better wines in vintages to come.
One producer whose efforts in the area have yielded admirable results, however, is Fabio Innocenti of Citille di Sopra. His 2002 shows more class and better balance than most. "Choosing the right rootstock and clones for this area before planting in 1999 was essential, as is the timing for green harvesting," Innocenti explains. He adds that the wines from Torrenieri tend to be tannic due to the compacted clay, so over-extraction during maceration and fermentation must be strictly avoided.
Another young estate to watch is Sassodisole, whose refined, well-structured Brunellos and Rossos promise to stand up to the time-honored tradition of lengthy cellaring.
Only two large estates are located in the DOCG's (the coveted "G" conferred upon the appellation in 1980) northwest: Casale del Bosco, owned by Tenute Silvio Nardi, and Castiglione del Bosco. The area's cool climate and susceptibility to fog, both of which hinder ripening, combined with a chaotic mix of soils, have discouraged new wineries from locating here. Interestingly, Castiglione del Bosco is undergoing major renovation, including the construction of a golf course and vacation villas by American investors. As for Casale del Bosco, its Brunello normale is blended with grapes from Nardi's holdings 15.5 miles to the south, a site from which a single vineyard selection, Manachiara, is also crafted.
After carefully analyzing all aspects of her Casale del Bosco estate, Emilia Nardi planted new clones of sangiovese on a small, rocky site at an altitude of 980 feet called Poggio Doria, a place that she hopes will more ideally express the terroir of Casale del Bosco. "The wines from here can be refined and aromatic, but never deeply colored and powerful," Nardi says. Barrel samples of the 2004 cru Manachiara, and from the newer plantings at Poggio Doria at Casale del Bosco (both to be released in 2009), revealed very different characteristics. The fuller-bodied Manachiara was darker with a more fruit-forward nose, while the Poggio Doria had more intense aromas, and at this early stage, was better balanced.
Nardi's Manachiara Brunello aptly demonstrates the heft that Montalcino's flagship wine gains as one travels toward the southern reaches of the appellation. Descending southwest from Montalcino toward Tavernelle, summertime temperatures become increasingly warmer, but estates at altitudes of 984 to 1,150 feet above sea level enjoy cooling nighttime breezes. Rainfall is concentrated mostly in the spring and autumn, and light snow is common in the winter.
While much of the soil in Tavernelle is composed of marine deposits, clay and sand from the Pliocene period, at Gianfranco Soldera's Case Basse vineyards, sited at 1,050 feet near Santa Restituta, soils are predominantly older clay and rock from the Eocene period, an ideal composition that encourages roots to dig down deep for water; along the way, they also encounter an abundance of minerals. Soldera is one of Montalcino's most forthright traditionalists, and his celebrated Brunellos have been stunning connoisseurs for decades. His is a hands-off regimen: "I ferment in wooden vats with no temperature control and no selected yeasts, and
I only use botti grandi for wood aging that lasts a minimum of four years, up to six," he notes. Soldera eschews barriques, because he says they "are only for deficient wines that didn't get enough tannins and aromas from the grapes and need to make up for this lack with oak sensations." The passionately outspoken winemaker has enlisted Mother Nature in the vineyard by constructing hundreds of nesting boxes and beehives to encourage the birds and bees to create a natural balance among his vines. In addition to his ban on barriques, pesticides and other chemicals are also shunned.
Soldera's luminous garnet Brunellos, released two to three years later than most other estates, offer a restrained voluptuousness - more floral than fruity. Along with Biondi Santi, they are among the most expensive Brunellos on the market, bringing to mind the finest reds from Burgundy for those lucky enough to afford them. Soldera, who normally makes about 1,250 cases of Brunello per year (in spite of having the vineyard potential to produce 5,000), strongly believes in reducing yields in the vineyard and in selecting only the best grapes. "In 2002, we literally selected the grapes berry by berry to make, in the end, 6,000 bottles [500 cases]. This type of selection is something only a small winery dedicated to the utmost quality can do," he notes. Soldera's rigid standards paid off: Barrel samples of the vintage, which will be released in 2008 or later, suggest it is already a quintessential bottling.
Southwest of Tavernelle is the hot and arid subzone of Camigliano where wines can easily take on overripe characteristics. Even at higher altitudes, soil is predominantly clay and Pliocene deposits. For the most part, this region boasts a handful of larger-sized wineries, including Antinori's Pian della Vigna estate (with vineyards at 425 feet) and the nearby Camigliano winery. To the north is Frescobaldi's enormous Castelgiocondo estate at 820 to 1,312 feet above sea level. Due in part to their considerable annual volume, the larger firms here employ ultramodern vinification and aging practices that make it easier to manage production. The predominant Brunello style is inky-dark and highly extracted, sometimes on the verge of sweetness, and sometimes showing aggressive tannins. While approachable upon release, their lack of acidity does not encourage them to age well.
Pian delle Vigne, dedicated exclusively to Brunello production (no Rossos or riservas), did not make any wine in 2002 because of the poor vintage. Both Camigliano and Frescobaldi made 2002 Brunello, however, and the latter's seems dominated by wood because in this poor vintage the wine lacks the essential structure to withstand barrique aging.
Opposite Castelgiocondo's vineyards is Folonari's small Tenuta La Fuga estate at 1,150 feet above sea level. According to Giovanni Folonari, "This area offers the elegance usually found only in the original growing area near the Greppo zone, combined with the full structure and body usually found in the Sant'Angelo zone." Aged for two years in French tonneaux (almost double the size of barriques), La Fuga's Riserva Due Sorelle 2001 beautifully expresses the roundness from the warmer climate, while retaining fresh acidity. It is a perfect example of how cellar practices, often determined by the sheer size of the estate and volume of output, can either allow terroir to shine through, or subdue any vestige of it and yield one-dimensional wines. La Fuga also skipped over Brunello in 2002.
Differences between the original growing area closer to Montalcino and the low-lying areas in the Sant'Angelo in Colle and Sant'Angelo Scalo zones - in terms of winery profiles, climatic conditions and Brunello styles - can only be defined as extreme. Almost without exception, these subzones are dominated by extremely large-scale operations such as Argiano, Castello Banfi, Col d'Orcia and Il Poggione.
According to average bottle numbers, though, there are fewer wineries in the area with respect to the growing areas to the immediate north and south of Montalcino, these two subzones known collectively as Sant'Angelo make between 35 to 40 percent of Brunello's total production. If one adds in estates from nearby Camigliano, these three subzones alone turn out 65 percent of the total Brunello output.
Sant'Angelo is the hottest area in Montalcino's entire production zone with torrid summertime sea breezes blowing inland from the Maremma pushing temperatures higher by 5 to 7 degrees Fahrenheit than the higher reaches of Montalcino. It is also the driest subzone where rainfall is, on average, 20 inches per year as opposed to nearly 28 inches for the areas closer to town. Clay and sand from the more recent Pliocene period dominate the alluvial plains that, until the 1970s, were, for the most part, cultivated with grain and other cereals.
Brunellos from these farthest southern reaches are much darker in color and higher in alcohol with noticeably lower acidity. Hence they are more immediate than the comparatively austere style found farther north. Excessively low yields, over-ripening and certain cellar practices can potentially lead to over-extraction and further exaggerate this already fuller style.
Altitude is once again a crucial factor. Leading winery Lisini has vineyards starting at about 984 feet, reaching up to 1,312 feet just below the hilltop hamlet of Sant'Angelo in Colle where the soil is calcareous and there is a longer tradition of winemaking. Lisini's deep garnet, round Brunellos reflect their southern muscle, but are balanced with good acidity resulting from higher-placed vineyards. Col d'Orcia's Poggio al Vento Brunello, from a single vineyard perched at 1,150 feet, also wonderfully balances grace and power.
In years with exceptional climatic elements, such as 2002 and 2003, the differences between Brunellos from Sant'Angelo and areas closer to Montalcino can be dramatic. While the higher reaches around the fortressed town were devastated by torrential rain during the 2002 harvest, those to the south suffered far less, having already been picked when the worst of the rains came. In contrast, 2003 was a difficult, but overall decent, harvest for the areas around Montalcino, while in the lower reaches, vines suffered severe stress from the prolonged heat and drought that caused grapes to dry into raisins while still on the vines.
Col d'Orcia's enologist Pablo Harri explains, "The 2003 Brunellos from the south will be more concentrated than usual and higher in alcohol. Grape selection was crucial, as tannins often did not mature perfectly since the plants were too stressed," he continues. "Through rigorous hand selection before, during and after the harvest, we achieved good quality, but we discarded 50 percent of our grapes." Harri prefers his 2002 Brunello over the 2003, the exact opposite of what winemakers closer to Montalcino espouse.
Almost without exception, estates in Sant'Angelo would like irrigation made legal to combat broiling summertime temperatures. "They don't need irrigation at the smaller estates further north towards Montalcino, but here we risk vines dying during excessive drought and heat," Harri adds. Despite its large dimensions, Col d'Orcia carries out an entirely manual harvest followed by careful grape selection. The estate was cultivating grapes even before current owner Francesco Marone Cinzano's family acquired it in 1973 and remains traditional, aging its fine Brunello for three years in large oak casks and up to four for the excellent riserva.
Although Col d'Orcia is the second-largest estate in terms of volume, its Brunello production of 300,000 bottles is dwarfed by Castello Banfi, the largest producer in both extension and output. After acquiring the property in 1978, the American-born Mariani brothers created a California-like setting with vines stretching off into the horizon. Although a little more than half of all Brunello producers have only between 1 and 7.5 acres under vine, Banfi's domain extends over 7,000 acres, of which 2,099 are under vine. From 741 acres of sangiovese situated at between 328 to 820 feet in the warmest part of the entire production zone, it produces more than 800,000 bottles of Brunello annually. "Since our wines are naturally more structured as a result of the hotter climate, they can undergo barrique aging better than Brunello made around Montalcino," says the estate's Dante Cecchini, who also emphasizes that their barriques are 350 liters rather than the traditional 250, which impart less wood-driven sensations than the smaller barriques. Banfi's three Brunellos, geared to the American market, are modern in style: dense purple with high alcohol, bracing tannins and low acidity, which allows them to be enjoyed upon release. In general, however, these are not wines for long-term cellaring.
Although the intense style of Brunello embraced by Castello Banfi and other adherents may have detractors, the American-owned property, with its tremendous volume, brought the once-obscure Brunello to consumers in the far reaches of the globe, much to the benefit of the entire denomination. Banfi's extensive clonal research revealed the best-performing clones for this environment - it now uses a blend of three: Jansus 50, Jansus 10 and BF 30 - and this information was openly shared with competitors.
And although output is colossal, Banfi is very serious about quality control. Cecchini points out that while 2002 was better at Sant'Angelo in Scalo, thanks largely to some let-up during the six-week downpour that the areas farther north did not enjoy, it was still a difficult year. "We made about a third of our usual Brunello production because of rigid grape selection, and we didn't make our single vineyard Brunellos." Due to the smaller production, the U.S. market most likely won't get any 2002s.
Although Brunello from the extreme southwest quadrants is characterized by sheer muscle generated by extreme heat and lower altitudes, the situation is markedly different in the far southeastern reaches of the growing zone where wines have an earthy elegance along with power. Following the crest of the hill from Montalcino all the way to the 12th-century abbey of Sant'Antimo, the hamlet of Castelnuovo dell'Abate unfolds in what is one of the region's most multifaceted subzones. The best vineyards face south, southeast and west, with those near Castello di Velona facing Mt. Amiata at altitudes of 656 to 1,476 feet. Although benefiting from warm temperatures, Castelnuovo's vineyards do not suffer the scorching heat of Sant'Angelo because the latter's hot sea breezes are blocked by the slope rising up above Sant'Antimo, while the Ombrone River below generates cooling winds at night. The subzone has a complex mix of soils that Roberto Colacicchi, professor of Geology at the University of Perugia, describes "as an unusual combination of ancient and recent soil deposits."
Piero Palmucci's much-acclaimed Poggio di Sotto estate is located here and is putting out fine, traditional Brunellos combining power and tipicità. Characterized by their shining garnet color, floral nose and rich flavors, the wines can be enjoyed young, but should continue to age well for at least 15 to 20 years because of subtle acidity achieved by the high altitude. Palmucci did not make Brunello from the maligned 2002 vintage, yet the area fared better than most other zones. Some of his neighbors made decent '02s that are enjoyable now, but will likely not age. "I would love for Castelnuovo dell'Abate to become an official sub-appellation so consumers can know that this Brunello is made in one of the sunniest parts of Montalcino where sangiovese matures perfectly," Palmucci enthuses.
Nearby is the Fanti estate, owned by Filippo Fanti, who, until recently was also president of the Brunello Consorzio. "I definitely am not in favor of subzones," he asserts. "In my opinion, since there are 250 estates, there are already 250 microzones. It would be impossible to rationally divide the territory, and some areas would certainly be penalized," continues Fanti, whose Brunello is not a terroir-driven wine. Dark purple and impenetrable with the jammy concentration so loved by many American critics, the wine has taken the so-called modern approach to extremes: Its atypical color and oaky vanilla nose mask not only the wine's provenance, but also its grape.
Other notable Castelnuovo dell'Abate names to look for include Bel Poggio, Mastrojanni, San Giorgio and Uccelleria, all of whom are making classy Brunellos with a certain heft that only this area can produce.
Although it seems unlikely that subzones will be officially recognized anytime soon by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture, more and more Montalcino winemakers are finding ways to better educate consumers about their individual terroirs, cellar practices, wine styles and aging capabilities.
As Brunellos of different types and varying quality continue to come to market, the best strategy will be to seek out well-known estates with proven levels of excellence, and to keep an open mind when trying out new labels. It is imperative, too, that the best Brunellos, handcrafted from magnificent terroirs with structures that will allow them to age for decades, be distinguished from those being mass produced from less suitable terrains or with cellar practices that inhibit the wine's unique characteristics. In neighboring European wine countries, the grands crus are protected, so one can only hope that Montalcino's will also be preserved. Otherwise the entire denomination risks being stigmatized by overproduction of a veritable roller coaster of Brunello styles.
Contributing Editor Kerin O'Keefe is an American wine writer who lives in Italy and is the author of Franco Biondi Santi - the Gentleman of Brunello that won a Gourmand World Cookbook Award in 2005.
Tasting BAR
The wines that follow were tasted by the author in Montalcino; they were not tasted blind.
Brunello Riserva
Biondi Santi, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - $495: Tantalizing bouquet reveals wild cherry, spring flowers and rose petals with a hint of sweet pipe tobacco. Rich berry-cherry flavors are restrained, and the long finish closes on tobacco and white pepper notes. Impeccably balanced, though still very young with sharp acidity and bracing tannins. May indeed become one of the greatest Biondi Santi Riservas ever. Complex and extremely elegant. Score: 97
Canalicchio di Sopra, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - $130: A ripe and powerful Brunello with aromas of sweet cherry, leather and violets with a hint of meat juices. Succulent, sour cherry flavors with layers of tobacco and spice balanced by sharp acidity and young aggressive tannins. Score: 93
Capanna, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - $65: Rich nose of ripe raspberry with earthy whiffs of nutmeg and truffle. Juicy black fruit flavors with hints of tobacco balanced by racy acidity and packed tannins. Score: 94
Caparzo, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - $90: Layers of earth and wild cherry on the nose with hints of violets. Lush raspberry flavors with suggestions of spice and tobacco. Firm tannins and bright acidity are in perfect balance. Score: 94
Col d'Orcia, 1999 Poggio al Vento, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - $98: Intense aromas of black cherry and licorice with hints of leather. Juicy wild cherry flavors balanced by big, sweet tannins wonderfully combine power and elegance. Delicious. Score: 95
Conti Costanti, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - $125: Intriguing floral perfume with hints of exotic incense and sandalwood. Graceful with restrained wild cherry flavors balanced by nervy acidity and bracing tannins. Still closed on the finish; will evolve beautifully. Score: 93
Casisano Colombaio, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - $88: Lovely and intense violet aromas with mouthwatering black cherry and licorice flavors. Densely concentrated with brooding tannins, yet possesses lively freshness. Long finish closes on a pleasing earthy note. Score: 94
Collosorbo, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - $100: Varietal nose of sour cherry with hints of truffles, tobacco leaf and new leather. Sweet berry-cherry fruit flavors are balanced by young tannins. A tad shy on acidity, but otherwise a fine Brunello. Score: 90
Fattoria dei Barbi, 2001 Brunello Riserva - $99: Earthy floral nose is slightly rustic but very enjoyable with hints of leather, clove and toast. Dense cherry fruit and truffle on the palate accompanied by firm tannins and good acidity. The warmth of alcohol dominates the close. Score: 91
Fuligni, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - $80: Floral berry nose with whiffs of leather. Lush black cherry flavors balanced by juicy acidity and compact tannins in a long finish. Score: 92
Gianni Brunelli, 2001 Le Chiuse, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - $120: Intense bouquet of earthy ripe cherry and a hint of tobacco. Succulent wild cherry-berry flavors firmly structured with thick tannins and good acidity with soothing licorice on close. A big wine that beautifully demonstrates power and grace. Score: 95
Mastrojanni, 2001 Vigna Schiena d'Asino, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - $100: Classic aromas of wild cherry and tobacco with a hint of iris. Juicy cherry-berry flavors with hints of vanilla and pipe tobacco with lively tannins and fresh acidity. A classic Brunello showing depth and concentration. Score: 96
Sesti, 2001 Phenomena, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - $90: Ripe, earthy nose with hints of incense. Succulent raspberry flavors balanced by tight tannins. Just a bit shy on the end; needs time. Score: 91
Tenuta La Fuga, 2001 Le Due Sorelle, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - $60: Enticing wild cherry scents with hints of truffle, forest floor, leather and vanilla. Young and vibrant with layers of juicy dark fruit flavors and bracing tannins. Complex and gorgeous. Score: 96
Terrasole, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - $95: Lush aromas of ripe berry, raspberry and plum with well-integrated oak and vanilla on the nose. Plummy cherry flavors accompanied by fudge and coffee balanced with compact tannins but finish falls slightly flat. A modern rendition with some tipicità. Score: 90
Brunello di Montalcino
Banfi, 2001 Poggio alle Mura, Brunello di Montalcino - $75: Compact aromas of sweet black fruit layered with oak, vanilla and spice. Palate is layered with dark fruit flavors, vanilla and toast balanced by aggressive tannins. Length is rather abrupt with rich chocolate and coffee on the close. Score: 88 >
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Canalicchio di Pacenti Franco, 2002 Brunello - $45: Pretty floral nose of violets, iris and dusty rose. Bright crushed cherry flavors with hints of clove and nutmeg on the close. Still young with bracing tannins. Score: 90
Capanna, 2002 Brunello di Montalcino - $45: Juicy candied cherry aromas with nuances of truffle, earth and leather. Crushed cherry flavors with licorice and tea leaf on the close. Score: 90
Case Basse di Gianfranco Soldera, 2000 Brunello di Montalcino - $294: Exquisite floral aromas of violets, rose and iris with a hint of saddle leather. Ripe, rich cherry-strawberry flavors with a restrained earthiness. Long finish closes on a white pepper note. A complex, vibrant Brunello of elegance and class. Score: 95
Citille di Sopra, 2002 Brunello di Montalcino - $48: Classic aromas of leather, earth and bright red fruit with fresh cherry-berry flavors. Well structured with firm tannins and fresh acidity. Score: 90
Il Colle, 2002 Brunello di Montalcino - $40: Lovely aromas of berry, earth, tobacco leaf and tea. Bright cherry and sweet strawberry flavors are restrained by crisp acidity and young but smooth tannins. One of the best of the vintage. Score: 91
Il Marroneto, 2001 Madonna delle Grazie, Brunello di Montalcino - $90: Enticing perfume of strawberry and forest floor, with hallmark notes of cherry, strawberry spice and earth on the palate. Though already beautifully evolved since first release, this is a classic Brunello for cellaring thanks to tight tannins and vibrant acidity. Score: 95
Il Paradiso di Manfredi, 2002 Brunello di Montalcino - $60: Classic nose of ripe berry, truffle and forest floor with a hint of leather. Ripe, juicy cherry and raspberry flavors balanced by perfect acidity and firm tannins. Long finish closes on a tobacco note. Thanks to grapes picked before the rains came, this is, hands down, the best 2002 Brunello out there. Score: 94
Le Gode, 2002 Brunello di Montalcino - $50: Enticing and delicate floral nose with whiff of leather. Restrained earthy-berry flavors are balanced by good acidity and silky tannins. Very drinkable now. Score: 89
Le Potazzine Gorelli, 2002 Brunello di Montalcino - $60: Very earthy aromas with whiffs of berry and violets. Varietal flavors of restrained cherry balanced by a hint of truffle. Immensely enjoyable. Score: 90
Poggio di Sotto, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino - $130: Intense aromas of cherry, violets and licorice with a hint of forest floor. Succulent and lush cherry-berry flavors balanced by distinct acidity and firm tannins. Rich and elegant Brunello to drink now or age. Score: 95
Salvioni, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino - $150: Ripe, lush aromas of black cherry and other black fruit with hints of violets along with deep color signal a slight departure from Salvioni's more austere style, but this is still a classic Brunello. Dense and concentrated flavors of sweet dark fruit are balanced by vibrant acidity and dense tannins. Score: 94
Tenuta San Giorgio, 2001 Ugolforte, Brunello di Montalcino - $65: Lovely earthy nose of wild cherry, raspberry, pine forest and tobacco. Rich cherry and tobacco flavors neatly balanced by crisp acidity and firm tannins. Great length. Score: 92
Tenute Silvio Nardi, 2001 Manachiara, Brunello di Montalcino - $90: Single vineyard Brunello with lush blackberry aromas and layers of juicy fruit balanced by a long tannic finish. Score: 91
Uccelleria, 2002 Brunello di Montalcino - $42: At first somewhat closed, but then delicious cherry and black fruit emerge with strong earthy tones and a hint of meat juice balanced by solid tannins. Score: 90
Rosso di Montalcino
Abbadia Ardenga, 2005 Rosso di Montalcino - $20: Enticing violets and brambly berry on the nose with fresh cherry flavors. Crisp, clean and enjoyable. Score: 88
Atreus, 2005 Rosso di Montalcino - $18: Varietal notes of violets and red berries. Bright, yet juicy, red fruit flavors balanced by vibrant acidity and tight tannins. Score: 89
Belpoggio, 2005 Rosso di Montalcino - $30: Pretty rose and violet scents. Fresh, vibrant cassis and marasca cherry flavors display impeccable balance. Finishes long and clean. Score: 90
Biondi Santi, 2004 Rosso di Montalcino - $60: Bright crushed cherry and violet nose with hints of tobacco and tea. Delicious cherry-berry flavors are balanced by crisp acidity and dense but smooth tannins. Incredible texture and depth. Needs time, but in a few years will be more a Brunello than Rosso. Score: 92
Canalicchio di Sopra, 2005 Rosso di Montalcino - $20: Violets and berry scents are vibrant as are the lively cherry flavors that close on a tobacco note after a long finish. Score: 90
Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona, 2005 Rosso di Montalcino - $24: Bright cherry-berry aromas that faithfully carry over to the palate that is balanced by vibrant acidity and tingling tannins. Score: 89
Gianni Brunelli, 2005 Le Chiuse di Sotto, Rosso di Montalcino - $32: Tantalizing aromas of strawberry and saddle leather with a hint of truffle; dense and mouthwatering wild cherry flavors. Long finish closes on a mineral note. Score: 91
Il Colle, 2005 Rosso di Montalcino - $24: Charming nose of young violets, white spring flowers and fresh berry. Succulent wild cherry flavors balanced with crisp acidity and bracing tannins. A true baby Brunello that will also age well. Score: 91
La Gerla, 2005 Rosso di Montalcino - $20: Crushed cherry aromas with ripe cherry and raspberry flavors, and hints of earth and eucalyptus. Fresh acidity and firm tannins. Score: 89
Le Chiuse, 2005 Rosso di Montalcino - $23: Cherry-berry and cedar aromas with vivid marasca cherry flavors. Good depth, structure and length for Rosso. Score: 89
Salvioni, 2005 Rosso di Montalcino - $55: Tantalizing nose of violets and wild berries with a hint of incense. Ripe, sweet red fruit flavors balanced by brooding tannins. Score: 90
San Lorenzo, 2005 Rosso di Montalcino - $25: Earthy aromas of truffle, leather and bright red fruit accompanied by mouthwatering wild cherry flavors and a mineral finish. Tight, crisp and clean; a quintessential Rosso. Score: 92
Tenimenti Angelini, 2005 Val di Suga, Rosso di Montalcino - $20: Spicy nose of black pepper, cinnamon and raspberry. Bright, juicy cherry flavors balanced by firm tannins. Black pepper close. Score: 88
Uccelliera, 2005 Rosso di Montalcino - $28: Bright cherry-berry and earth aromas that resonate on the palate with hints of pleasing truffle and meat juice. Outstanding Rosso with great structure and a long, berry close. Score: 90 - KO
Swimming in a sea of vines
Until recently, Montalcino's lodging scene was shockingly dismal, but the recent openings of Il Borgo at Castello Banfi (see "Afoot & Afield in Tuscany," page 62) and Castello di Velona are fast reversing the situation. The latter, a lovingly restored 11th-century fortress situated on a hilltop that now safeguards an army of sangiovese grosso vines, houses 23 elegant suites and rooms. Newly discovered thermal water on the property means that a luxury spa will soon follow, and the estate is now making its own wine, too. Only minutes away from all of Montalcino's wineries and the Sant'Antimo abbey, and with its on-site restaurant and swimming pool, Castello di Velona is an ideal place to stay when touring the region. - KO
Castello di Velona
Località Velona, 53024 Montalcino (Siena), Italy
Phone: 011.39.0577.800101
Fax: 011.39.0577.835661
Web site: www.castellodivelona.it
